You’re more than welcome! That’s exactly why I made the video, so I’m glad it helped. Thanks for watching!

Thanks so much for watching!! I’m glad I could help. It really does pay to do the work yourself! Thanks again!

$900 for fluid service is Criminal... wow

I just picked up a baby 2023 T4R Limited with 3700 miles on it. When they told me the prices of the extended warranty, I told the Finance Manager that he was probably the only person that I know in my lifetime that made a car sale and lost a customer inside of an hour. I have a Service Garage a block from me. The owner is a super nice guy, he has about a dozen techs working for him, and he is just as busy as some of the neighborhood dealers, if not busier. He is going to get all my business. He is already helping our son keep his 1989 Pontiac Firebird running like new!!!!

There ya go, simple tasks a man should know 👍

You’re more than welcome!! I enjoy doing it, so hopefully it helps. Thanks for watching!

You’re more than welcome! I’m glad you liked the video, and hopefully it does help you when you go to do service on your 4Runner. I know that I made the work look easy, but it really is that easy. Thanks for watching!

Thanks for watching! I think I mentioned the cat is named Peanut. He’s a pretty good cat. Thanks again!

I really appreciate your comments. Thanks for watching!

Thank you very much! I really appreciate the positive feedback. Thanks for watching!

I really appreciate your positive feedback. Thanks for watching!

Thank you very much! I really appreciate your comments, and for watching!

Thank you so much for your comments. I appreciate you watching!

I appreciate you watching! I live in eastern North Carolina, so not much snow and ice around here. Plus, I always spray the undercarriage after off roading.

Take care of it

​@@bluelineoffroadyou do it right

Weak axle

@@davevolz6138 Not really sure what you mean by a weak axle. It’s the axle that comes stock on the 4Runner, but thanks for watching!

I really appreciate the positive feedback. Thanks for watching!

Thank you so much for the positive feedback! I made the video to be helpful for people, so I’m glad you enjoyed it. Thanks for watching!

Excellent! I’m glad it helped. Thanks for watching!

Thank you so much! I really appreciate your positive feedback. Thanks for watching!

I’m glad it’s helping. Follow it along as you do the service. That may help you even more. Thanks for watching!

Thanks so much for your comments! I really hope it helps, and trust me when I say that it isn’t very hard. You WILL save a bunch of money! Thanks for watching!

Thank you so much for the positive feedback! I’ve been working on cars for over 40 years, and I wish I had a resource like KZfaq when I was first learning. I’m glad you found it helpful. Thanks for watching!

I appreciate the feedback. Thanks so much for watching!

Congratulations on the new 4Runner. Take care of it and it will last you for many years! I’m glad this video helps. That’s exactly why I made it. Thanks for watching!

Thank you very much! I appreciate you watching!

I really appreciate the comments! I totally understand the issue with the torque wrench. I was really just being lazy and didn’t want to get my breaker bar from my toolbox. Again, I really appreciate the positive feedback, particularly from a mechanic. Thanks for watching!

@@bluelineoffroad Yeah, you’re right because I get lazy like that too & besides, those HF torque wrenches are cheap, but I learned to never drop one or it’ll be ruined. Thanks again!

I appreciate the positive feedback! Thanks so much for watching!

I’m glad you enjoyed it, and I hope it helps you. Thanks for watching!

I’m glad it was helpful. Thanks for the positive feedback, and for watching!

I really appreciate the positive feedback. Thanks for watching!

Thank you so much! I appreciate the positive feedback, and thanks for watching!

Thank you very much. I really appreciate the positive feedback. Thanks for subscribing, and for watching!

I really appreciate it. That’s exactly why I did the video, so I’m glad it helped. Thanks for watching!

I really appreciate the positive comments. Thanks so much for watching!

Glad to hear it. That’s exactly why I made the video, so I’m glad it helped. Thanks for watching!

That’s actually not a bad idea, especially if it’s been a while since you’ve performed the service. It helps to get all of the old fluid out. As for the work being therapeutic, I totally agree! Thanks for watching!

Thanks so much for the positive feedback. That’s exactly why I did the video, so I’m glad it helped. Thanks for watching!

I really appreciate your comments. Thanks for watching!

I appreciate the positive feedback. That was exactly the reason why I made the video, so hopefully you’ll have good luck doing your own work. Thanks for watching!

I really appreciate the positive feedback. This is exactly why I made the video, so I’m glad it helped give you the confidence to do the work yourself. Thanks for watching!

Thanks so much for your comment. I really appreciate it. Thanks for watching!

Thanks so much for watching. I’m glad the video helped. I won’t be doing the transmission service until at least 60,000 miles, and when I do, it will probably only be a drain and fill, not a flush. Thanks again!

​@@bluelineoffroadonly drain and fill no flushes

@@bluelineoffroad Exactly what I’d like to see! Great video you did here on the diffs, would be great to see your instruction on a drain and fill for the transmission

@@damon323 Thanks for your comment. I won’t be doing any service on the transmission for another 20,000 miles or so. When I do, it will only be a drain and fill. Thanks for watching!

Don’t flush, remove fill bolt, drain, remove the pan, remove the filter, replace the filter, clean the pan with brake cleaner, wipe well, lube the edge of pan, put drain plug back in pan, put new gasket on , carefully set all 20 pan screws, tighten slowly left to right and back and forth, once all are 90% tight go around clockwise and final set each bolt, refill WS automatic transmission fluid from Toyota, put fill plug back in, run the truck and go through all the gears for a few minutes to get the fluid up to temperature, the fluid expands with the heat, open the fill plug one more time, let the over fluid run out, replace the fill plug, do it again every 30k miles. Some say 60k. It’s up to you, fluid is cheaper than a new tranny. You do not get all of the fluid out. Takes 6 quarts or so. Tranny hold 11 plus quarts. Good luck!

Thanks so much for commenting. I’m glad it was helpful. I’ll tell our cat, Peanut, about your message. Thanks for watching!

I really appreciate it! I should have more videos coming soon, mostly product reviews, so keep watching. Thanks again!

Thanks so much for the positive feedback! I usually use work gloves while working on my vehicles, and I actually tried to use them while filming this video, but I wasn’t able to work my phone and camera. The touchscreen simply wouldn’t work with with the gloves. Thanks again!

Thank you for your comment! I’ve already done a full brake job (did not replace the rotors), so I unfortunately won’t be doing a video of that anytime soon. I will say that it wasn’t difficult, and there are several good videos already on KZfaq that show how to do this service. Thanks again for your comment and for watching!

Thanks for the comments. What year is your 4Runner and what is the mileage?

2017 trd off road 80,000. Miles in great shape.

@@pgoncalves007 Excellent! I would also recommend doing a drain and fill on your transmission. It’s a little different than most because there is no dipstick, but look up The Car Care Nut on KZfaq. He has a video that shows exactly how to do it. Thanks for watching!

Thanks so much for your comments, and I’m very glad you found the video helpful. That’s exactly why I do these videos, so again, I’m glad it helped. As for allowing the dealer to work on your new 4Runner, I’m not sure I would recommend that. I’m sure there are some good dealerships out there, but my experience hasn’t been all that positive. Your “free” oil changes will really only amount to two of them, so you’re really not getting much for free. Plus, what’s your time worth when you have to take your time and gas driving there, sitting in their waiting area, then your time and gas driving back? Contrary to what many might believe, dealer techs often over tighten oil filter housings, strip or lose skid pan bolts, or any number of other things that they might do to your brand new $50,000 4Runner. Again, you just might want to rethink the dealer for anything other than warranty work. Plus, you’re already doing the oil changes yourself, so you know how to do it. Just my thoughts. Thanks again for watching!

I appreciate the positive feedback. It’s actually not a white shirt. It’s beige, and I have a bunch of them that I have leftover from work. They’re moisture wicking and great for working on cars and lawn work. Thanks for watching!

Yes, these dipsticks are difficult to read. In fact, most are difficult after an oil change, but you get better at it once you’ve done it for a while. Plus, it really helps when you know how much oil you’ve already added, so you’re only looking for the difference. Thanks for watching!

Thanks for your comments. I’ve always used Valvoline gear oil, so I was happy when they started using the bags instead of the plastic bottles. The bags make it so much easier to get the fluid where you need it. Plus, there’s no clean up. Thanks for watching!

@@bluelineoffroad I used mobil1 for mine lol. Did not have the cool squeeze bottle. Lesson learned hehe.

Thanks for the comments. I’ve also considered adding new fluid to flush out more of the old, but I ultimately decided that it wasn’t really worth it. I warm everything up before draining, so the old fluid drains very well. I appreciate you doing your own work. It definitely pays, not just monetarily, but also knowing that the work was done correctly. Thanks for watching!

Thanks so much! I really appreciate you watching!

@@bluelineoffroad absolutely! Just changed brakes and rotors this past Wednesday. I get a shimmy in my steering wheel at about 60-65 mph. I’ve had tires balanced and rebalanced, and I read somewhere it could have been a warped rotor, but it still shimmies. I’m guessing wheel bearing or control arms. I’ll probably do the service on your bud the next time I’m due an oil change. The Oil change place stripped out my front skid plate nuts last time I had it done. Can you access the filter without taking it off?

@@adamcordell7750 Well, about the shimmy, the problem may be the needle bearing. Look it up on KZfaq and you’ll see that it’s one of those nagging things about the 4Runner Now, about the skid plate, there is an access panel for the drain plug, but you need to remove the skid plate in order to access the filter. If the bolts are truly stripped, maybe get a dye set and retap the holes to a slightly larger size. You can then just use larger bolts. Yet one more reason to do the work yourself! Thanks again for your comments, and for watching!

Thanks alot. I really appreciate the positive feedback. Thanks for watching!

I appreciate the positive feedback. Thanks for watching!

Thanks for the comments. Even though you may not have this particular vehicle, it’s basically the same regardless of what vehicle you may have. These components are simply drain and fill, so it’s a very simple process. Thanks for watching!

@@bluelineoffroad thank you for your encouragement . Keep up with more videos

Thanks so much for the positive feedback, and for watching!

Thanks for watching! I just lubed the propeller shafts, so it will be a year or so before I do it again. It’s actually very easy to do. There are three fittings on the front drive downs three on the rear.

Thanks for watching! I hear you about the crush washers. They’re recommended, but certainly not required. I appreciate you watching and the positive feedback!

Thanks so much for your comments! I’ll be doing my transmission pretty soon as I’m getting close to 60,000 miles. It’s really not that difficult to do yourself, and you can find a scanner to do the job for around $100. Not only do I not trust dealers very much, it also gives me the peace of mind knowing that it was done right. Thanks again for your comments, and for watching! God bless you as well!

@@bluelineoffroad yeah I’m hoping you do a video on that as well. We’ve all seen car care nut do it, but would love to see your video of it too. Appreciate it!

Thanks for your comments. I have other videos on the way, many of which are not necessarily maintenance related, but rather product reviews which may also be very helpful. Stay tuned and thanks for watching!

Thanks so much for taking the time to comment. I really appreciate it.

Funny, but you just made me laugh as well because you're the only one who has noticed that so far. It's kinda like a security blanket for me to push it a few more pounds. Plus, my torque wrench has some age on it, so I'm not sure it's totally accurate. I really need to invest in a new one to help ensure that I have torqued everything down correctly. Thanks for watching!

@@bluelineoffroad Just watched the video and noticed this as well. Since it's your machine, it's your right to tighten as much as you want and will likely never cause damage. For you audience though, stopping the moment the wrench clicks is correct.

Wow, I’ve never heard of that! I would understand if it were a lot of fluid, but just because it was still dripping a little? That’s good to know. Thanks for watching!

Thank you very much. I appreciate you watching!

@@bluelineoffroad Thank you for making this video. I just bought a 2023 and thinking of working on it myself.

Please do your own maintenance. No one cares for your vehicle like you do, especially dealers! It really isn’t that hard, and you’ll not only save a ton of money, but you’ll know that the job was done right!

@@bluelineoffroad Roger! Thanks 🙏

Thanks for watching! I’m glad to hear that you’re going to tackle this yourself. As I said, it really isn’t that hard, and you’ll get the satisfaction of doing the work yourself. As for my torque wrench, I purchased it at Harbor Freight several years ago. It’s worked well for me, and it didn’t cost as much as many of the others. Thanks again for watching.

Thank you so much for your comments! It really means alot that you took the time to write something so positive. I’m glad the video helped. Thanks for watching!

Thanks for watching. No, the torque wrench wasn’t expensive, so I’m not real worried about it. I don’t have pipes lying around, and I was honestly too lazy to go get my breaker bar. The torque wrench is what I had available, so that’s what I used. Thanks again for watching!

@@bluelineoffroad You may actually want to use Oem Products for the Toyota fluids.

@@bigfootswatching9986 Thanks for the suggestion, but it’s totally not necessary. The OEM 75W fluid is incredibly expensive, and also extremely difficult to find. I contacted a certified Toyota technician who told me that 75W-90 was not only acceptable to use, it was actually widely used for the differentials and transfer case. Further, I don’t know anyone who actually uses OEM motor oil for routine oil changes, but there are many who use Toyota oil filters. The only area where I will use OEM fluids is the transmission. Thanks again for your comments.

​@@bluelineoffroadhey Bigfoot, often times OEM fluids are manufactured by companies like Valvoline

Thanks a lot for the suggestion. I’ve actually thought about getting one, but just never have. I haven’t found that it would really save me much time since it’s just one bolt, and I have to remove others just to access the area. But, I may look into it. Thanks for watching!

Check engine light?

@@seanpeacock6848 nope. Just a better drain plug. It simply turns a messy drain bolt into a petcock that is mess free. Simply flip a lever, and no more oil on your hands or tools ever again. Also my favorite benefit is if you take it anywhere for an oil change, no more worrying if someone used an impact wrench putting your drain plug back in, or ruining the threads on the oil pan

Check engine light for what?

That’s actually a very good idea. I have an oil change coming up soon, so I may try that. Thanks for watching!

Does Pre-FILLING The Oil FILTER Cause Engine DAMAGE? kzfaq.info/get/bejne/b5lpireW1NimnoU.htmlsi=6e6cQZ5na2OVXfCI

Thanks for tour feedback, and I totally understand how a torque wrench works. I’ve always added a little “extra” when tightening things just for my peace of mind. Thanks for watching!

You know, you’re exactly right. I neglected to include that in the video. My 4Runner only had 40,000 miles on it at the time of the video, so I didn’t even think about it, but should have checked it anyway. Thanks for watching!

I appreciate the suggestion, but it’s very easy to fill both differentials and transfer case using the bags from Valvoline. It’s a very easy service to perform on the 5th Gen 4Runner Thanks for watching!

Yep, I usually don’t with oil, but I change it every 5,000 miles. I would typically use them with things like differentials and the transfer case, but I didn’t this time, and haven’t had any issues. Thanks for watching!

I appreciate that. Peanut is a huge help! I couldn’t do it without him! Thanks for watching!

I appreciate the comments, but I used the same fluid (Valvoline 75W-90) for both differentials as well as the transfer case. It’s shown at the beginning of the video as well as when I was using the bags. Thanks for watching!

Thanks for your positive feedback. There are so many options for tools on the market, it’s hard for me to suggest any particular manufacturer. The power ratchet that I use is really just for convenience and saving time. It’s a cheap Chinese knockoff that I bought on line, but it does what I bought it to do. As for the particular 10 mm hex, I would be a little more particular about those types of tools. My hex heads are made by Kobalt (bought at Lowe’s) and have worked well so far. However, I would recommend any reputable manufacturer which offers a lifetime warranty. I know those are typically more expensive, but they end up being cheaper since you only buy them once. I’m actually still using some tools that I bought decades ago. I have a good friend who races cars and has a full auto shop in his detached garage, and he shares my opinion about those types of tools. Thanks so much for watching!

Thank you so much for your positive feedback! I really do appreciate your support, and also for taking the time to send this message. That’s exactly why I do these videos, to help others get the confidence to do the work yourself. It really isn’t that difficult, and you’ll get the satisfaction of doing the work yourself. You said that you’re working on your own 2007 4Runner, so I’m glad you’re doing it. However, I’m not familiar with the 4th Gen models, so I don’t know how different they might be from the 5th Gen. You might want to do a little more research on your particular model to make sure you’re doing everything correctly. My tools? Well, I wish I could provide links, but I really can’t. It’s a hodgepodge of tools from various companies, so I really can’t remember where I bought them. I know that many of my socket tools were from one of the big box stores (Lowe’s, Home Depot), and some tools were even from Harbor Freight. I know that many tend to shy away from Harbor Freight, but they’ve always worked well for my needs. I don’t know that I would buy their products if I were a professional mechanic, but again, they work well for what I need. Thanks again for your positive feedback. I really do appreciate it. Thanks for watching!

I appreciate that!! I’ll actually be releasing another video in a week or two of a drain and fill on the transmission, so keep an eye out if you’re looking to do that service soon. Thanks for watching!

Thanks for the positive feedback! I found the torque settings online. I can’t remember where, but a simple search yielded torque settings for more than I needed for the project. Thanks for watching!

I change mine every 40,000 miles, but others go a little longer. It’s so easy to do, and is a simple insurance policy for those major driveline components. I’m currently at 53,000 miles and will be doing the transmission at 60,000 miles. Thanks for watching.

Thanks so much for your comments. I lube the driveshafts about once a year, or about every 15,000 miles. I didn’t include that in this video since it’s a different type of service. There are already several really good videos on KZfaq which demonstrate how to do it, and also just how easy it is. Thanks again for your comments, and for watching!

You’re exactly right. I had a F-150 that did not have a drain plug, so I had to remove the cover to drain the fluid. Plugs do make it so much easier, but as you said, you don’t really have the opportunity to visually check your gears for potential problems. However, examining the fluid for chunks of metal should give you clues as to whether or not your gears are damaged. Thanks for watching!

Not a bad idea. I’ll try to remember next time. Thanks for watching!

That’s a very good question. The answer would depend on the fluid you use. Most, if not all, synthetic gear oils already contain the appropriate amount of friction modifier, so there would be no need to add it. However, standard oils typically do not, so you would have to add the correct amount of friction modifier when changing the fluid. Thanks for watching!

Thank you very much! I appreciate the positive feedback. Thanks for watching.

Thanks so much for watching! My recommendation for changing the fluid in both differentials and transfer case is around every 30,000-40,000 miles. I know that the owners manual doesn’t recommend that it be done that regularly, but I actually use my four wheel drive system. So, my opinion is that it’s pretty cheap insurance policy to help protect major driveline components. About your stuck crush washer, I know that can be frustrating. You should be able to get it off by “gently” using a broad flat head screwdriver. Don’t be too aggressive with it as you may dent your oil pan. The broader the screwdriver, the better! I’ve changed my oil several times without using new crush washers, so you should be fine. However, I do plan to replace the washers at my next oil change. Thanks again!

@@bluelineoffroad Thanks for the info. Looks like I still have quite a few ways to go before the differential oil change. I'll try the flat screw driver tapping method next time when doing the oil change. I feel better now that you mentioned you have used the old washer several times without any issues. Thanks again.

I appreciate the comments. I always purchase oils and fluids at Walmart since they have the best prices. They used to carry the K&N filters, but they don’t seem to any longer, so I purchase those on Amazon. I also purchased the filter wrench on Amazon. Be careful to get the correct one. There are some that are better than others. I think the best one is made by Motivx, which is also available on Amazon. Thanks for watching!

Thanks so much for your comments! It’s hard to know whether you should be worried since I can’t see the bits, but from your description, I wouldn’t worry too much right now. You’re not experiencing any problems, and these pieces were few and small. Again, I wouldn’t worry about the bits. However, I would recommend that you do the service on the rear again after about 30,000 miles and see how it looks. If there are any larger particles, that may be cause for some concern. Even still, if you’re not having any problems, I wouldn’t perform any repairs. As for filling to the bottom of the hole, that is the fill hole which is specifically designed not to allow any overfill. The differential is full if you only receive a few drops or a very small stream. It would be extremely difficult to actually overfill your differential enough to make any real difference. Thanks again for watching!

Thanks very much for your positive feedback! It is greatly appreciated! To answer your questions, first about the crush washers, both differentials and transfer case use crush washers on both the drain plugs and fill plugs, but I didn’t replace any of them. In my opinion, it’s really not necessary every single time, but I wouldn’t push it beyond a second service for fear of potential leaks. However, I did change the crush washer on the oil pan drain plug. Crush washers have apparently become very common for these types of services, and they’re inexpensive, so to be safe, changing them is probably recommended. About the oil filter housing, this is a topic of debate among many 4Runner owners. Personally, I see no reason to change the plastic housing for a metal one. There are several reasons why I don’t, one of which is that there is no specific one for the 4Runner. You need to get one made for another Toyota vehicle, then you need to exchange the inner tube from your old housing and place it inside your new one. Although this may seem like an easy process, and it is, problems often result due to the way you must bend the tabs in order to exchange the inner tube. Bending those tabs can make them weaker, possibly resulting in issues with the housing itself. The filter requires tension within the housing, and weakening these tabs and spring can possibly lessen the amount of tension resulting in your filter possibly not working as it should. I hope that makes sense, but my feeling is that if a metal one was really necessary, Toyota would have used one from the factory. Many of the issues people have with the plastic housing are caused by either using the incorrect tool, or by over tightening the housing. Getting the proper tool is vital as it allows you to get a good grip on the housing to avoid stripping the outer tabs. Secondly, the housing really doesn’t need to be tight at all because the housing isn’t what’s really creating the seal, it’s the O rings. Get them snug by hand, then slightly more with a wrench and you should be good. I’m sure there is a torque setting for the housing, but I tend to follow what I’ve always done. I hope I’ve made sense, but if not, please don’t hesitate to ask and I’ll do what I can to help. I’m not a mechanic, but rather a guy who’s been working on his own vehicles for well over 40 years. If I can help someone do their own work, then I’m glad to do it. Thanks again for your positive feedback, and thanks for watching!

Thanks for the comments. About the transfer case drain plug, I don’t believe it does, but you can buy an aftermarket replacement that is magnetized. Thanks for watching!

Thanks for the comments. I usually use work gloves, but I wasn’t able to work the camera while wearing them. As for the products, I’ll stick with Valvoline. Thanks for watching.

I appreciate your comments, but I checked with a Certified Toyota Technician who said that the fluid that I used for the transfer case was more than acceptable. In fact, fluid in they weight is widely used in the transfer case with absolutely no problems. Thanks for watching!

Thanks for your support! There is a long standing debate about 0W-20 oil and whether it actually provides adequate protection. It’s widely believed that 0W-20 oil is mainly used to help meet the government mandated CAFE standards for fuel economy. The 4 liter used in the 5th Gen had been in use for many years, and in many other countries with various oil recommendations. In fact, depending on your model year, the owners manual may give you a range of oil weights to use depending on your ambient temperature. When I made this video, I was using 0W-20 oil, per the manual. However, I have since switched to 5W-20 mainly in an effort to help quiet the common “tick”‘produced by these engines, but also because of the studies which indicate that 0W-20 oil “may” not provide adequate protection long term. I live in eastern North Carolina, so it doesn’t get very cold here. Because of that, I don’t really have much of a concern about switching back and forth during the colder months. Regarding you burning oil and fuel carry over, that sounds like the rings and/or valves may be worn. My guess is that it’s a high mileage vehicle? In that case, using a slightly thicker oil shouldn’t be a problem since the wear has actually created larger tolerances within your engine, and the thicker oil helps to fill those tolerances. Basically, I think you’re fine with using slightly thicker oil, even in your 2023 4Runner. I’m a little skeptical of going with a 5W-30 oil, which is why I’m using 5W-20 instead. Thanks again for your support! I really appreciate it!

Yep, that’s missing, but I only had 40,000 miles, so it wasn’t due. However, I just did a drain and fill last week, so I’ll have a video of that in the next couple of weeks. Thanks for watching!

Thanks for watching! I usually do use work gloves, but I wasn’t able to work the camera and phone to film. Thanks again.

Thanks for the question. Yes, the Valvoline 75W-90 gear oil meets the GL-5 specs, per the Valvoline website. I’ve used Valvoline products for years and have always had great results. They make quality products at an affordable price. Thanks for watching!

Better to change when it’s “clean” than to wait until it’s dirty. Thanks for watching!

@@bluelineoffroad I can see your point.

That’s actually a very good idea! I’ve never thought of it, but I may actually exchange mine for drain plugs as well. Again, great idea! Thanks for watching!

Thanks for the question. Honestly, I can’t remember the size, but it’s a fairly large size, probably a 22 or 24 mm. Thanks for watching!

That’s a very good question. My answer would depend on how you use your 4Runner. I haven’t heard about those who change the rear differential fluid at the first oil change, but I can understand why they would suggest that. Personally, I don’t think it’s worth it to do so early, but it certainly won’t hurt anything. Specifically, as for the mileage, I did it at 40,000 miles, but I’ve heard recommendations at 30,000, but also recommendations at 60,000 miles. My opinion is that performing service on major driveline components is easy and relatively inexpensive to do, so why not do the service in an effort to make those components last? It’s a lot cheaper than performing repairs on those components. That’s my viewpoint, and I’ve been working on my own vehicles since before I could legally drive. Thanks so much for watching!

Thanks so much for watching. Yes, oil does expand slightly when warm, like other oil based fluids. However, the expansion amount is nominal and relatively insignificant. The capacity amounts from Toyota state 6.6 quarts for an oil change (including filter), but Toyota doesn’t specify whether or not that amount is determined under warm conditions. The reason for that is because the difference is negligible. Thanks again for watching.