~ Thanx so much, one of my neighbors was having a problem with his front right window not working. This is certainly a time & money saver, no haggles work around.

I’m glad I found this. My wife has been dealing without her passenger window going down and I had done everything I could think of. Did not think of a broken wire but there it was once I pulled the driver door wire boot back. Any problems in the future that’s the first place I’ll look. Thanks. All you firefighters out there stay safe. Jeff from Freeland

Meticulous attention to Detail is Fabulous! by the way, Knuckle scrapers make the World go Round.

Same problem on my 2000 Excursion. Same yellow w/ black stripe wire broke, as in this video. 1.5 hr from start to finish on fixing this. Saved $150 that the shop would have charged to fix. Thanks for the video.

Great video! Pushing the boot into the door was the ticket. Thanks!

Thank you for the info on the broken wire issue. My 2005 Explorer's problem with the passenger power window was a broken wire just inside the driver's door. Your video saved me gobs of time ... Thanks again!

Thanks for this video it saved me a lot of time on a customers vehicle, it had a wire broke on the LR door jam too. I fixed it it no time and saved my customer a ton of money and that makes for return customers thanks again!

Thanks for helping me fix my window issue well done.

Very informative and methodical. Excellent video-keep up the great work.

Excellent video. Helped me figure out it was the switch on my rear passenger door.❤

Great video. Thanks a bunch as I wasn't sure how to get the rubber sleeve out to get access. I would like to mention one thing I figured out in the past by breaking mine. Before you remove the switches you should remove the panel behind the door handle. It is also clips and you can just pry out right behind the speaker grill. On the switch there is a little plastic clip that helps hold the switch down. It clips onto the door handle panel at the front. Again, great video!!

Also wise to check all the other wires around the the broken wire area. Since one wire broken, may be the case that other wires show signs of failure (e.g. insulation broken, wire looks flat with bare wiring seen, chafing evident etc.....) especially at a pivot point or hinge. Excellent video, keep up the good work.

This video has helped me find the answer to why all four of my windows don't work on my Ford Explorer. I found one broken wire.

This video provided everything I needed to repair my window. Great video!

Love the magnetic 3rd hand. Great tool. Great repair. Great video as always.

2004 explorer passenger window fixed with your video. Driver's door wire was the issue. Thanks for saving me the time, money & trouble.

Excellent description of how to do a competent repair. Thank you.

Awesome, real teaching. THANK YOUUU!!!

Be careful using continuity buzzer it can still sound at 100 ohms. Also you can have good resistance but can still have a large voltage drop in the wire. It is a good test just to prove if you have a complete circuit or a open.

It sounds like to me Zach deserves a pay raise, outstanding performance my fellow techs. Being accurate and thorough is the key to diagnoses. This is just ONE way of diagnosing this complaint. Isolating those wires one at a time and either applying a ground or power to one end with a test light attached to the other end would have shown the same results. The test light, would not have illuminated, indicating an open(infinite resistance) in that wire. There are so many variables, but that is what keeps us on our feet. Good Job.

Excellent from diagnostics to repair. Wish I had one of those magnetic clips. Those are awesome

this is a great video. Way to go. You logically tested the various possible causes for failure and explained it well. Thanks!

Strange that one wire would fail among a 15-20 wires. Had to have been heavily damaged somehow during manufacture. Nice video and good smooth delivery.

Man you got some cool tools my Freind , excellent video .

Thanks for tips, they did the trick and my passenger side window is now fixed

thanks for all your videos still learning the wire diagram

lolz, I would have never verified that the switch is good with the front right. I would have just bought another switch and rage quit when it didn't work. Luckily I don't fix cars for a living, only a hobby. Nice vid, much appreciated!

Really appreciate ya'll making this video. 👍

Excellent troubleshooting information. I was able to fix my broken power window wire - thanks to you!!

excellent video I learn a lot thank you and GODBLESS

Happy new year.Great job and thumb up.

Saved my booty yo! Thank you I was able to repair my broke wire with minimal difficulty

man I like that magnetic clamp you use for soldering

Great video man! very informative!

Job Well Done! Thank you so much👌

Excellent troubleshooting. Better than just being a part-replacer

thank you!!! ive had to put a bag over my window for the past month and couldnt figure out the problem . yup broken wire! thank u

Great and Informative video. Thank you.

Very nice video on troubleshooting power window problems along with wiring diagrams. I have some questions as well as suggestions. 1st, when doing continuity test...do all the connectors just simply pull and unplug from the switches? Even on older 98 model Explorers and/or Mountaineers? 2nd, that's a lot of trouble to have to unplug the right rear switch to test on the front passenger window (you would have to pull off yet another door panel). Instead of doing a continuity test from driver master switch to the right rear window connector (Red/Blk to Red/Blk, Yellow-Blk to Yellow-Blk), you could've used a test light back probing the Red/Blk at the master switch while toggling (Up or Down), then back probe at the Red/Blk on the Right Rear switch. You could do this with the Yellow/Blk as well. If there is continuity between the master and rear switch, the test light will behave the same. Note, there is the input to the right rear switch on pins 1 & 6 and there is the corresponding output on pins 2 & 5 going to the motor. 3rd, I would not have soldered that cable in and then test if the window worked. I would had twisted it together, test the window, and if works than solder them. Nice video though! I'm now faced with a situation whereby the motor is dead, but I need to roll up the window for now until i can fix it.

an easy first check is to activate all the window controls and look for the overhead light to dim. this will show if power is being sent to the window motor or not. if the light dims the power is good and the motor is drawing current dimming the light some, if not there is no power going to the window motor or the motor is not working.

Very well done video many thanks for sharing. . To test a window switch another way would to simply use an OHM meter and activate the switch up and down.

very nice job ....just fixed one 02 ford explorer.

Thanks great info on handy tools

I use tinning flux on the wire so it absorbs the solder quicker

I like that technique to test the motor directly first.

master nice work thanks.

In my 2002 Explorer, when I try to raise the window, I hear a fast tic, tic, tic, tic, tic. so I know there is power going to the switch and motor. So could the problem be with the motor, gears and such? or could it be that the glass came off of the track or whatever holds the glass. BTW, I am able to raise and lower the glass manually by grabbing a hold of the of the glass with my hands and moving it up or down.

Excellent thank you guys

Great video!!

I think this my problem on 03 explorer thanks a lot kid

Good vid. Just one question because from what i've learned is that you shouldn't solder between the door jamb because over time the solder will just break apart again. Would the correct method be to replace with a new length of wire between the door and inside under the dash and soldier in those two locations instead because the new wire would not have a break in it. THanks

Nice video ... Thank You ..

A continuity check will only show opens, but will not test for high resistance....oops, Zach let one slip. I only caught this a month too late. Killer2600, you are correct.

Bet you had a lot of fun putting that rubber boot back in between the door and the post. =0)

As everyone said, it was an extremely informative video. Thanks. My problem is a little different from that in the video, and hoped you might be able to answer a question for me. I have an extended cab, so it has only two operating windows. I had been having problems with the switch for the driver's window, and all the sudden both windows stopped working. Neither switch on the driver's door will operate either window, and the switch on the passenger's window does not work either. No blown fuses, and I exchanged the relays. If the switch on the driver's door goes bad, is it possible for it to prevent the switch on the passenger's door to stop working?

nice job thanks

Terrific ~ Thanks!

wish more techs would at least match the big colour on the wire for the next tech that has to track these down in the future. but great diagnostic work

THANKS 4 THE TIP GUY

I ask because if the rear passenger window switch (RPWS) had constant battery voltage at pin 3 and the rear passenger window (RPW) did go up from the RPWS, doing a voltage drop test across pin 3 & 6 of the RPWS while pressing the RPWS down button would produce a zero volt reading. If you wiggle the meter leads at that time you would get a ghost voltage reading (if auto-ranging is enabled on the meter, otherwise set the meter to mV) indicating a open in the circuit which could only come from the yellow/black wire with that circuit. So two quick voltage tests and you know there is a open in the yellow/black wire without having to take anything apart and saving a ton of time/effort. Or am I missing something? Thanks a lot...

That's a wise tip, to go to the door that is used most.

You the best 👌

Job well done.

nice repair.

Superb!!!!!

Where does the red and black at the drivers' side go-to for power? Does that have a fuse or relay for the power draw?

Good video!!

Great video. Since the red/white wire was OK, wouldn't that allow the window to work in one direction?

good video, not sure why you tested continuity from the master switch to the window instead of testing power from the master switch & door switch to the window motor connector.

Love those magnetic alligator clips. Brand name please & where to buy?

Good troubleshooting, But a little too much. I would use my meter to check the switches. Check voltage at the motor. Then I know it is an open. Good repair.

Excellent

that was a fancy splice

On my 2003 Explorer I got a short on all the windows and the radio went out to the fuses looked good got any ideas

You said your DVM won't check for high resistance on continuity test, that's correct, because you won't get a very high resistance on those wires anyways.... a 200ohms scale is plenty to check for resistance on those wires, unless their a mile long. And, on most DVM's you could still get the beep on continuity even at 30 ohms, maybe even more... ? outside of that you just have to watch the meter for a reading. So I doubt very seriously if you need more than a 200 ohms scale to get an accurate resistance reading on any wire in a vehicle, it takes a very fine and or long copper wire to jump off a 200 ohms scale.

Good video

I always wondered how a person can fix a wire in a straight line (as you did with solder and heat shrink).

THANKS

How did you get the drivers side view mirror connection unplugged. I cant seem to disconnect the plug.

Just curious.. did u try to roll the rr window up using the rr switch?

Would this be the same kind of solution for a Ford Sport Trac 2003?

What kind of wire did you use to splice.

I have a 03 sportrac and my left rear window goes down but it wont go up. And on my master switch the door lock and mirrors dont work.. i dont know if all of this is connected. What do i need to do to find the problem...

❤ thank 😊

What brand are those wire strippers?

I mean, with ground applied to both sides of the motors at all times, as soon as you apply voltage to either side it should short to ground.

Great video, but a continuity test can fail you if that wire had just a few broken strands of wire. After confirming the motor and with koeo unplugging the connector at the motor back probing the connector side and load testing with a LoadPro while pressing the door or master switch up or down would have identified what side was open or had high resistance. A continuity test can fail you, a voltage load drop never will, plus its quicker too...

If it isn't the fuse it could be a broken wire. On my car the window would work randomly. If it works sometimes common sense should tell you it isn't the fuse. Try this first, the accordion looking plastic you see when you open your door is supposed to protect the wire. When you open and close the door, overtime the wires can become kinked or broken. Try squeezing or manipulating (not too aggressively) the "accordion" while holding the switch to see if it moves. If it does the wire can be located and repaired with a butt connection. If the window still doesn't work when you try this it could be a motor or something else..I saved $300 by fixing the wire on the door. Thanks

I would like to do a wire repair outside pivot point, as solder joint is hard and it will stress remaining wire and this problem will reappear.

I have a 2002 ford explorer and I watched ur video and found 4 broken wires but the windoe still doesn't go up and down what else could I do the motor is good so is the switch and still nothing getting to the motor

Another great video. I like the electrical videos a lot. Question: if the rear passenger window switch (RPWS) was getting constant battery voltage at pin 3, as the diagram suggests, wouldn’t the rear passenger window (RPW) go up when pressing Up at the RPWS even with the open in the yellow/black wire? I ask because in the video the RPW didn’t go up from the RPWS. So either the diagram is wrong or the window lock-out button in the drivers door switch was down (killing voltage to pin 3 on the RPWS) or the red/light blue wire is broken (too) or I’m missing something. Thanks a lot for all the great videos. I look forward to seeing more.

where can we buy a pair of those wire strippers hand tool that is in this vid? Thanks.

so 2003 ford explorer problem - front driver window works however the other 3 do not . Can this be the switch?

I have this problem on my driver side door in my 2002 Explorer. It will function all the other doors, but not the driver side window itself. The auto lock button on the driver side door also stopped working a few months before. Do you think the 2 could be interrelated?

hi I have a 98 Subaru forster belt , and I have sounds coming from the poly of one of the driving belt it sound like it went bad can I put lubricant oil drops to stop the noise temp.tell I get it replaced or what you advice me with and how long can I drive like that?

exelente

Hello, This video was very helpful to me in many ways. My problem is different, on my 2003 explorer V8 EB loaded. All of a sudden my windows wont work unless I have the DRIVERS door open. when I shut the door none of the windows will work from any of the doors switched, when I open the drivers door all of the windows work from each door including the master drivers controls. Any ideas ???

This happened to me on my 1995 Chevy Astro's power lock circuit... the Front passenger button went dead... what do you know, a wire broke in the robber link hose... Must be a common fault with vehicles...

Real good video.

Question where do I buy the little clamps to hold wires