Nice! Glad to hear it's working on the 2010s as well.

Thanks for coming back and commenting! Glad it got you fixed up!

Awesome, thanks for taking the time to comment and letting us know how it went!

Good to hear. I would make a habit of putting it in 4 low every few weeks to a month or so just to keep it working good. Mine is still doing well also after all this time.

Nice! Good to hear and thanks for commenting with your truck info.

Glad to hear it was helpful! Thanks for the comment!

Nice! Glad it worked on the 10' model.

Great to hear! Funny enough I can usually see the correlation between an influx of views and winter storms in this video's analytics

Glad it worked for you man

Glad you got it fixed up! Thanks for leaving a comment!

Nice thanks for watching and commenting

Well at least you know all the other components in the system are up to spec lol Thanks for checking in and letting us know it worked.

Thanks for the additional info on your year model. 👍 Glad it worked for you man.

I just bought one last night the wrench light came on and it won’t shift properly now almost as if I’m stuck on 1st or 2nd.

any tips?

Kind of crazy it works even if it is potentially just a temporary fix.

May not be a permanent solution but it's hard to beat a quick fix lol

Nice, glad it worked 👍

My 4x4 on my 09 KR has not worked for sometime. I recently began seeing “2x4” briefly light up in cluster when starting my truck. Is that just the light proving out? I don’t recall ever seeing it. It doesn’t stay lit, only when turning the key. Thanks

Give it a go and report back!

Nice mine is still working fine too, I'm sure the actuator will eventually need replaced but using 4x4 once or twice a month has seemed to help keep the problem from coming back.

Good luck! Hopefully it works well for you!

Well in all fairness to a shop, they would have probably just changed the part and not messed around with something like this but it's definitely a free way to get it back going. Mines still doing great, seems like using the 4x4 once or twice a month is also good practice to keep it going.

Also thanks for the comment and letting others know it worked on your year model. I wasn't sure if it was the same for the 15+ models.

@@BCDriven oh ok, it's my first time owning a 4x4 vehicle so that's a good tip. I was told to not use it on the pavement though.

@luisrios4050 yeah these trucks don't like 4x4 on the pavement unless your pulling straight ahead at low speed. But with the IWEs and the actuator on the transfer case you really should try to get it into 4 low once a month or so just to keep everything moving freely.

@@BCDriven Will do! Thanks! 👍

Great to hear, thanks for the report

This worked for me. Thanks for posting!!!

Good deal, keep using it once or twice a month to help keep it working. Mine is still working great since making this video. I feel like it's kind of a bandaid to put off replacing that actuator but heck I'm all for it lol

Good deal, thanks for leaving a comment.

Glad it worked for you, Thanks for the feedback!

Good luck, it'll either work or it won't 🤣🤣

@@BCDriven I had to replace my check valve earlier this year so I’m hoping I don’t have to replace anything else.

Nice! May only be a temporary fix or a fluke but it's still working great for me. I do try to use my 4x4 at least once or twice a month now too.

Also good advice on watching out for the gear falling out.

That's exactly the issue, the average person needs 4x4 maybe a couple times a year. I try to use mine once every couple of weeks now and it seems to help keep it in operation. On the switch, a cheap amazon one is around $20 and would be a good thing to have incase your glue idea doesn't work out. amzn.to/3VPwaQV there's options if you have the diff lock or don't.

@@BCDriven : Thanks for the link BC. Guess what . . cleaned off the two broken plastic posts with alcohol, mixed up a batch of original JB Weld, applied only to the posts, and inserted back into position. Rigged up a walking stick with a pad on the end to apply slight pressure to the rotary switch into the dash for 24 hours. Voila! She's fixed Southern Style. Of course, it may break tomorrow, but it was easy and fun. Thanks for the inspiration. Now I'm fighting a real battle - a 2015 6.7 powerstroke that starts making a terrible buzzing noise- seems to be connected to the transmission but no drivability differences. Suspect something loose. Need help to find it probably unless I am able to step up my DIY game.

did it work? I may try this today.

Thanks for watching and commenting!

I'm glad my asking helps a lot of people.im going to get my son to try it when he comes home. Now.on.to the next problem my 81 in TV won't come on pictures is clear ,,,, but won't stay on I unplugged my plug back it would come on ,, but now the Sony keeps circling .

Yeah that actuator should have some grease in it that may be getting too stiff or have some residual moisture in it that's freezing and the heat just loosens it up enough to go. Usually if something that is supposed to move is stuck some combination of heating and beating will get it going.

Probably so, the actuator doesnt have to move to go into 4 hi. Could also just be a bad actuator but I mean it doesn't hurt to try this seeing how it's free and takes less that 10 minutes to do.

You go under the truck at the middle near the back of the driver's door and look towards the front of the truck.

Ive got a dakota Im doing a motor swap on but not videoing it due to time

At least for my truck, when this was messed up 4 Hi still worked good but would still give the wrench symbol, when you put it in low it would just flash the wrench and stay in 4 HI. This part would be the culprit if you put it in low range and it doesn't go into low range. The vacuum hubs are a common failure but I don't know if they would give you the check 4x4 message. Regardless, it's free and takes less than 10 minutes to try so can't hurt to give it a run.

It's not so much as it's getting in a bind as it is the sensor loosing it's reading. If you took apart the thing I was spinning it would most likely have a wiper style potentiometer that varies the resistance causing a proportional voltage drop that is reported back to the ECU to tell it that the 4x4 shift was successful. I think the deal with spinning it back and forth is mostly to help "clean" the wiper of that potentiometer. You wouldn't want any type of moisture or lubricant in there that could interfere with this circuitry.

Got it. Thanks

I don't know for sure but if it has a similar style transfer case actuator I bet it would

I work 10 minutes from home and the closest fuel station is 20 minutes the opposite direction. Pair that with an exceptional skill for procrastination and you end up here lol (my gas light is currently on again 😅)

@@BCDriven haha

To each, their own.. or whatever that saying is lol I didn't replace my actuator but have used aftermarket parts in tons of applications. It's kind of a gamble but at the cost difference vs oem it usually makes sense for me to go aftermarket on something easy to change like this. If it's something I have hours and hours of teardown to replace yeah it's likely going to be oem but again, different strokes for different folks.

I do appreciate you watching and commenting as well.

At least it's easy to change lol

Maybe so lol I've never been a big brand guy. I would say I'm maybe a little more biased towards the blue oval but mostly because of the issues the others have.

@@BCDriven they all have issues. We just like to joke with each other

Hahahahaha if it’s domestic, it’s junk now days. Although I have 320k on my ‘11 screw and she still runs close to that she did with 60k. Chevrolet would’ve have 2 4l60’s replaced by now.

Just a casting mark, I went under there to check it after re watching the video.

@@BCDriven ok good that made me sad for you glad it was nothing

If it's not shifting to 4 lo, set the parking brake and lay under it and feel the motor when someone else shifts it from 4 hi to 4 lo. You should be able to hear and feel it actuate. If it doesnt actuate, get a multimeter and start diagnosing the connector. I'm not sure the exact pinout but one pin should go from 0 to 12v when the switch is turned to 4 lo. If there is no change in the voltage on any pin of the connector then you likely have a bad switch on the dash. Hope that helps a bit.

What lubricant can you use