you can easily get at the rear bolt/screw that holds down the motor assembly; by just releasing or breakings the plastic tabs that hold together the motor assy.; to take off the top half cover, which exposes the motor and gear assembly, and by removing the motor and gears you can easily see the back screw to get a socket on it to remove thru the radio opening. no need to remove glovebox door and access that screw thru the back. Helps to have a stubby socket, or grind one down to reduce socket height, I got mine off with regular socket, and then use my tiny and super think wrench to move it 1/8 turn at a time, (which does not take long since the pitch of screw is very fast for plastic holding.). Only disadvantage is it may limit your diagnoses to confirm what was wrong with the unit, (the gears function or motor or both as an assembly and with motor under load of gears etc.). Little tricky to install screw as new unit is the whole height of assembly, but I got the screw started OK with the 8mm screw in a stubby socket ; with a little tape as precaution not to drop screw, then did the slow 1/8 turns with my slim 8mm open end wrench. good video to get me started, finding the center console screws and then sliding it back a couple inches was big help. Glad it was not the main blend door motor assy. although if your truck is older , one guy has a great you tube video to short cut that big time, if you are wiling to take sawsall and wack off a couple inches of plastic floor air duct by passenger left foot.

Brother....thank you for the video. Wifey wanted me to take it to the shop after seeing your video because of all the work it takes. But your video gave me the confidence to do it myself. Appreciate the time you put into putting this video together.

Just subscribed, looks like a great channel for me. I'm all about doing it yourself when ever possible. Thanks for the time you've invested in your videos to help others. Came over researching 60hp Kioti Tractors and landed here, take care.

I'm so glad I found your video, I own a 2011 F150 Platinum, fully loaded with center console and all. The way you said slide the console back and the other small parts to get to it. It took me less then an hour to replace it and put everything back together. Honestly, thank you soooo much for your help, was the best video I found.

To access the back screw take a 8mm lug driver and put it in a 1/4 ratcheting wrench. Wrap a little tape on the back of the driver so it wont fall out when manipulating. Works like a mini socket. Saved me lots of time.

This was the best hack video to do this job. My truck is a 2013 so the screws for the faceplate on the navigation system wasn’t on top of the dash. They are under both air panels at the top. The passenger side was the hard one but if you pull back on the top side and lodge a screwdriver handle or something in there to keep it apart you can get it out. Cover your navigation screen up unlike I failed to do. Ended up geting about a one inch scratch. Thanks for the video and helping me save HUNDREDS! Took me about three hours and 45 mins was putting that damn back screw in.

Watched your video. The part was 38.00 dollars. Local garage wanted 900.00 and 3 days to work on it. Ford dealer asked for 1500.00 and 2 days. Took 3 and 1/2 hours, lots of blood on right hand, but I have cold air now. GREAT JOB ERIC !!!!

I changed the top motor without moving the center console. I flexed the side silver trim just enough to get at the center trim and didn’t remove the bottom screws. Saved an hour probably. I am going to have to replace the hard to get to passenger side motor but just disconnected the plug for now. If you don’t cut the plastic vent like a hack fixer shows on another KZfaq video, you have to take the dash off and disconnect the AC lines and recharge it he says.

So I was having the same issue with my truck. With your video I was able to fix it! However, my passenger side is STILL blowing hot air…and I’m stumped as to what to do next…any ideas?

The Standard Motors (TechSmart) F04002 & NAPA TEEADA113 & Ford YH1933 are the SAME Size Actuator Motors, The Dorman 604-242 is about 1/4 inch thicker which makes it very difficult to install on the driver side vent door which is located on the bottom of the AC/Heater Box

Would this apply pretty similarly to a 2015? My passenger side blows only hot air and the dealership quoted me $1300

That grey center console pulls up. Yep, tug harder. I was able to get the back screw out without removing the CD player. How you ask? Using a 5/16th DeWalt nut driver that have magnets, fom the front I could put the 5/16th on the nut with clearance for the shank. With a 1/4" open wrench I came in from the front and unscrewed the screw. The magnet held on to the screw head. I didn't have to come in from the glove box at all. Now that I got it out I found a nice small low profile set that I'll buy. One important question - when you take out the broken one, do you lift straight up and does the new one go straight in? I hope you don't have to move or adjust the splines to get this to fit in and work correctly. Thanks, good video.

After I took out the navigation screen and carefully reinstalled it it has a white screen only however will work touching the screen but you have no idea what you are touching but it changes options. Any suggestions on how to get the screen to work again. Does it need reset?

The radio bezel can be removed without removing the center console based on my experience. Is there another reason why the console has to be moved back 1-2 inches? Do you have enough access once you remove the radio and bezel?

Did this fix the cold / hot on one side of the truck? I think I have the same issue, hot on the passenger side while I’m freezing in the drivers chair.

How did you get the gears to align when putting in did you have to plug in and turn truck on first ?

There is another video with a center console. I called Ford and the part number is correct, the price from Ford is $45.43. What gadget did you install?