The video was getting long, so I didn't do a conclusion, but everything when back together without a problem and I have been driving the truck for two days and it's working great. The duct work is secure and is not rattling and is functioning just as it should. Thanks for watching!

Thanks for all your effort to make this video. I'm so grateful for guys like you that take the trouble to show us step by step in these videos how to get it done. YAH Bless you.

The part about using the old gear to relocate the flap was great! Used it worked like a charm, thanks for this!

Thank you for your effort. Between you and Makuloco I mustered up the courage and tore my truck apart this afternoon. I've actually pulled the complete dash in 3 different Towncars over the years so dash removal wasn't out of the question but the last Townie I did was a 2007 and 5 years of added complexity made pulling the dash seem like too much for this old guy. Plus it wasn't 100% clear to me how much further disassembly was required once the dash is out. It actually appears that its basically a full condenser replacement which is way worse than the Towncar which is bad enough to begin with. Something you didn't highlight - or if you did I missed it - is the fact that there appears to be a huge variety of designs for the airboxes on these trucks. The Lariat that Makuloco did appeared closer to what I was facing. On my truck there was simply no option to remove that back screw. There's actually a whole 2nd layer of vents above the Y-shaped tube and that completely obstructs any access from the driver side. After watching your video I had convinced myself that that back screw would be removable - I really didn't like Makuloco's solution of breaking the tab but that's exactly what I ended up doing. Once again, thanks for all the work putting that video together. I've done a few myself and they are a lot of work.

THANK YOU!! most thorough video on this ever! I’m about to tackle this myself.

Very helpful video. Especially the part about taking apart the old part and lineing up the gear. Thank you.

Will be working on mine this week, I appreciate that you made this video without the viewer having to hear cursing throughout it, that’s rare anymore.

Thank you for making such a detailed video. Answered a lot of questions for me before I take on this task.

Thanks for the video buddy! Nothing is wrong with a slight modification at times that serves the same purpose! Appreciate the work video to help others. A+

Thank you for doing this video it really helped get this awful process done a little easier a second set of hands getting the actuator back in was key for me

Pretty cool video. Very well explained. Very challenging job, glad you got it done.

Thanks man very helpful video I just did the job on right and I am happy.

Thanks for sharing this video, a very practical method for this crappy job. Perfect timing too as I have my '12 half torn apart, trying to avoid removing the dash. Cheers!

Hey my Actuator started clicking few weeks ago n I been pushing it off watching a ton of videos here an there then my tv went on me so I got both of them from amazon I watched your video as well as other people’s but by far yours was the most helpful an detailed thanks a lot

Thanks. I watched one video but skipped a lot of stuff. Yours was so informative, thank you. I have the flow through console and some extra steps like others have said. I just looked up another video on taking that out. It happened to be the same video that left out everything you showed in detail. Thanks again going to give it a shot right now

Outstanding. You have all the details, knowing all that makes it all easier. Don't have to figure it out.

Thanks for the video. Super helpful. I was real happy not to have to pull the entire dash!

Very useful! I was able to do this in 2.5 hours thanks to your help

EXCELLENT VIDEO. saving $1800 thanks to you. well done!

Excellent Video, I'm having that very same problem. I replaced the upper one and it still kept clicking, so it must be the lower blend door actuator. I'll pick up another one and follow what you did. Thank You for taking the time to do the video!!

Great video. Saved me time and frustration. Successful replacement of my lower blend motor on a 2012 raptor.

Hey, thanks for this video it really helped me fix my lower actuator. Good job!

You're a good dude. Super helpful content!!

Nice thanks for the video 👍🏼

Thanks for the video I just did this today on my 2011 Lincoln navigator it has the center console and duct work but the job was pretty much the same I used an aftermarket one just cut a quarter inch off the gear and was able to get it in

Great video. Did this repair today however I have the centre console as well as the under seat ductwork. Watched the video twice and did the whole process without an issue. Only thing different I did was leave a bit of the peg u cut from the passenger side and I drilled a hole in it and wired it to the lower duct work to support it up. I believe I read another comment about that. Took under 5 hours and so far the fix seems good. Thanks for the awesome video certainly helped 👍👍👍

Very good video with some helpful tips. I've got the flow through console so I may have a few more things to remove. Thanks for the vid!

Thx! I had the same aftermarket part and what I did to make it fit in the tight area was trim down the gear

Awsome step by step

Awesome video. It really helped me out of a jam.

Just did this yesterday...one trick I'll add to align the new actuator spline is that if you can manage to attach the wire to the new blend door first -- turn the truck on, the ac system will set the new blend door to the last setting (i.e. where the old one was last aligned). Granted, my old actuator was clicking, but upon inspection, it didnt have as many broken gears as yours. So I set the old one to a temp setting where I knew it still worked properly before I started this job.

Excellent video.

I was able to get the Dorman part in my 2009 F-150 King Ranch but I had to fight with it with all my will power for a few hours and I think it’s still honestly a miracle I got it in there so definitely go with the OEM part.

Thanks for the video

I have the same issue, but I have a center console to deal with... Goodie.... Thanks for the video.

Helpful video. I don't use the floor vents, so what I've decided to do is to cut up the ducting on the passenger side floor ducting to get to this actuator. I think cutting that ducting out will give enough room to get to the bolts and change this part out.

I cant thank you enough for this. Saved me alot of trial and error

Outstanding video. You thought it was rough but it contained valuable information. I have a 2013 F-150 with a center console, so I had an extra duct that ran to the back of it. This means there was a lot less room to pry things around. Ended up having to cut a chunk out of the top right of the vent on the floor to get the new actuator back in. The old one came out in pieces. I thought that may be useful for others attempting this money saver. THANKS!!!!

A couple details to make things as easy as possible: Loosen the HVAC housing nuts (no need to remove) in engine bay, They are 11mm and have an 1.5" washer. Loosen the dash frame mounting bolts. There are 2 (13mm head) on each side of dash. Again, just loosen no need to remove. This will allow and extra 1/4" to get old actuator out and new in. Slide actuator over to the driver side to gain easy access and remove and install the actuator electrical connector. BTW - no issue with cutting off the mounting stand on the pass side for the floor mode housing. You will not have a rattle etc.

I work at a used car lot, I tried this on a 2011 F150 with dual climate, it also has the ducting that runs thru the console and out the back as well as under the seats. that console ducting under the dash blocks access to the left screw as that ducting is attached to the piece you cut off on the left, had to break that tab, couldn't put a screw back in, also can''t work the electric plug from that side, a real pain to get new plugged in from the right side. was able to trim the upper edge of the vertical flange of lower right outlet and get fingers a little farther in. did cut off mounting on the right, but left enough to drill a hole for tie raps. Still took all day but made it work. Thanks for the video and helpful tips, not sure I want to tackle another anytime soon.

Useful video. I'm curious if you tried swapping the thinner, contoured bottom housing from the OEM part over to the Dorman? Is the Dorman gear case hollow in that area? Maybe the lower shell part of the Dorman is just not contoured like the OEM?

Good video i have a 09 f150 platium and i have problem where im getting cold air on passenger side and rear but driver side not so much air plus is coming out warm any suggestion what may be

Great thorough video! Luckily my aftermarket warrantee paid the dealer to fix this for me just after buying my 2011 platinum. Unfortunately the warrantee is expired and the upper blend door is now making that clicking. From what I hear it's the easier one to fix. I also had the sunroof issue, that was also fixed under the warrantee. It is so unacceptable that ford would use these cheap parts, totally mind numbing.

Hey so I got a 2013 fx4. Working on it rn as I watch your video. Passenger side blows cold air but the driver side does not. Way before this happened I hear a clicking sound constantly. Even when the truck is turned off. Now I found that the top actuator is faulty and I will replace it. But what do I replace to get cold air blowing on the driver side?

I have the center console. I stopped at 2am in morning and said “not gonna do it”. i even have the DVD manual to do this but no time. now i hope right side becoming a few degrees warmer may be able to be reset and i don’t have to repair. i can’t hear the clicks (hearing issues) glad to know i’m not the only one trying tnis insanity 😏

I cut my duct work out. just made life so much easier. and I have no change in quality

Automotive technician here.... This is the process I use to replace these stupid actuators. Pro tip : NEVER USE DOORMAN PARTS.... UNLESS YOU WANT TO DO IT AGAIN!! I just did one of these, and charges 14.5 hours. Service writer was pissed that I got it done in 3 hours. But, sometimes you win, sometimes you lose.

Thanks for the help I was able to replace mine in about 1:30 hours..

Can I just unplug it till I can fix it its winter now and it goes on for a couple sec then goes away

I have a similar issue with my 2011 Expedition but my driver side floor and dash blows cold air instead. Does this sound like blend door to you?

at 18:00 the post is there to support a different piece of ductwork if you have the center console with two vents for the rear passengers. Hack it off if you don' t have that console and enjoy all that room to get to the screw.

Amazing video. I have watched it 3 times now and am going to begin this job this weekend. You mention in the video that you heard the blend door near the gas pedal moving. My clicking noise seems to be coming from that area. Is there an actuator near the gas pedal that I should be replacing or is the one in the video the only one down there ?

Hi i have a question. My f150 2013 in driver side, even i change it to cold or hot it stays on slightly warm. Feels like the blend door is stuck to neutral but the passenger works fine. Tried to max the fan either of the side, it still works. It is the same as this video? Just replace the blend door actuator just below?

Thank you for the help the ticking is what I have now .and my battery lite comes on in my dash.

Dan, great video, thx. Ref: 2013 Ford F150 Platinum: Does the driver-side Blend Door Actuator, control which vents the AC air comes out of, i.e. floor, defrost, dash, or a combination? On the driver's side, I get cold air from the defrost, and/or floor but not the dash vent.

Hi great video! Just to clarify your truck has three Actuator? This one. One behind the radio and one by the gas pedal correct?

Hey I changed both of my and I can get it to work any suggestions?

I have a 2010 Ford f150 the AC is working on the left side but not the right side right side stays the right side won't change that from cold to hot it's a blend door for that switch where's that located

It's crazy how a part that seems to fail a lot (had mine replaced twice under warranty) and now have to do it again but out of warranty. It's crazy how they put it in such a inaccessible place to fix.

I just had it changed. Lasted 2 weeks, then started clicking again. Any thoughts?

Your video helped quite a bit sir. My only problem is that I have a center console with gear shift and all that good stuff. I had to take out seats in order to remove floor ductwork that runs under the seats. Then my next problem is that there is ductwork below a/c controls that pushes air to rear vents of center console. That left me virtually no wiggle room to work with blend actuator. I nipped a piece of the lip on the duct the is for floor duct work. This helped to get actuator out, but then electrical connection was hard to remove. This was the hardest part of the entire job. Removing/Reinstalling actuator caused me a lot of grief as I nearly put a bat to this stupid truck because of it. All in all from start to finish I put in roughly 7 hours by myself. Keep in mind I'm mechanically challenged!!! Ford can do a better job with location and access to this stuff. 2010 F150 Supercrew FX4 A lot o the comments were helpful, so thanks to everyone posting.

@TheDeeVee I wonder with so many repeat actuators failing (teeth failing at least even when properly centered, not the electrical side FordTech mentioned), if there’s anything that can be done to grease/lubricate the actual doors that might be seizing if you have the whole dash out.

I found that putting an 8mm driver bit into a 1/4 ratchet wrench. Then tape the back of the bit so it wont fall out. Awesome diy mini socket.

Question when u started the car up after you replaced the part the squealing sound from the one by the gas pedal is my issue I have the knocking when I first start car and it goes away but the squealing stays and I traced back to behind pedal should I replace both or just the lower to see if that fixes my issue

@TheDeeVee Is there an actuator on the actual driver’s side? It looks like you’re working on the passenger side.

nice watch. what kind is that?

I have a issue and I’ve tried to find it and cannot run it down! I have heat and ac, I have full speed on the blower 1-4 , I have the mode change. But I have little too zero air coming out of any vent on any mode. Blower motor is brand new and runs like a hurricane I can’t figure it out please help! It’s about to be summer in Oklahoma🤣

Great video, thank you. About to tackle this on my 2008 Expedition. What is the part number of the OEM part?

After doing this operation yesterday, I went out and the truck was completely dead. Even the remote door locks wouldn't work. Is there something that I need to reset. I took the fan motor fuse out for one minute yesterday as was mentioned and that seemed to reset just fine, but I can't figure out why the truck is dead this morning?

Loved the video. I decided to tackle the job. Replaced the lower actuator with a new Ford part. For some reason, I decided to disconnect my battery after I had it all apart with the failed actuator out. ( I had read somewhere that you definitely did not want to power the actuator without it first being installed). It had failed at the 10 o’clock position so I followed your advice, took the old actuator apart and used the large gear to set my blend door by hand into the correct position. The new one slipped right in. I buttoned everything up only to find the new actuator searching (clicking). I read about calibrating the unit, followed the instructions but to no avail. Any possibility of a bad part from Ford or is there something else I’m missing. Thanks again. Update! After examining my repair, I found out, for some reason, disconnecting the battery caused the upper blend door motor to lose its mind and start clicking. I have read that is a possibility in other threads here. Replaced it also. Much easier than the lower one. All back together and everything is working fine. Thanks again! Your video saved me a butt load of cash.

How do you know if the problem is with the upper blend door? You're replacing the lower blend door. I have heat on the driver's side and nothing but cold air on the passenger side. Do you know the answer? Upper or lower blend door. Thanks

I think I have a similar problem when I turn on heater I only get heat on passenger side vents and the driver side vents I get cold air my question is which actuator I have to change to fix that issue?

I have a piece of duct work on top of the vent shown that attaches to the under seat duct work. I can't get even close to access without some how getting that piece of duct out. Anyone know how to get it out.

First, thanks for the video. You explained there are two of these actuators, upper and lower. I have a 2012 Lariat and the problem I've noticed is the drivers side heat works but the passenger side isn't heating, its putting out cold AC and no matter how high I put the temperature up, there is no heat. Is this the problem you had with your truck that the actuator (upper or lower) caused?

Are the 2 actuators (Behind the radio and passenger foot well) the same actuators? So I have this same issue on my 2013 with Dual climate control. I just replaced the actuator behind the radio and came to realize that was not the problem and I am not redoing that to pull the actuator I installed out again. So I have the actuator that that came out behind the radio that I know now is still good. My question is, can I use the actuator I pulled from behind the radio and replace the pass foot well actuator with that one?

I have a 2011 f150 with dual climate control. My truck is making the clicking sound behind the radio when I start it, but I can still get the temperature in the vents to go from hot to cold. The passenger side will only blow out of the dash vents and not the floor but the temperature will go from hot to cold. Any suggestions?

I have a 2011 Ford F150 when i put the heater ON no warm air comes out what Actuator would be causing this?

At the 16:51 mark in the video, you describe how to access the rear screw on the actuator. My problem comes from a second vent duct, oval in shape, directly above the rectangular duct. The upper duct is attached to the fan zone selector actuator, so I don't think it can be removed. What do you recommend? My F-150 is a 2010 Lariat super crew. I'm wondering if, for the 2011+ models, they didn't have that upper duct.

I'm having a real hard time with mine. 2013 FX4, there air duct to the left of the actuator which makes it impossible to get on the left side. On the right as I take the crowbar and pry it, there's no room to get the actuator out. Seats are off, floor vent is off. All this work and nothing to show for it. Any help?

Just cut it and glue it back...im doing that, thanks for the vid 👍 im starting this tomorrow...🤢

What years is this good for ?

Had both upper and lower actuators replaced, but after everything was put back together they still didn’t work right. Come to find out the climate control module was bad, and after it was replaced everything worked fine the module was two hundred and something. This is on a dual control, flow thur, 2012 Ford F-150 platinum.

did u see that there is a rib in the middle of the lower air duct and it is two pieces. what i did was to bend either the top or bottom half sideways and pry the air duct down. so the center air duct will cave in in the middle. plus I use heat gun to heat the air duct makibg it more flexable. this gives you extra 10mm clearance and much easier to remove the part out without cutting out anything. another is the driver side screw. I made an extra low profile 8mm 12 point socket with a thin and long handle weld togethet. then i remove the that screw from pasenger side.

I just did and I removed the everything dash the box a/c take me 1 day completely

The tab you said that don't attach to anything... Attaches to the main blend door to the rear.

Dude made a movie out a freaking piece replacement ... I fell asleep at minute 10...

I recently replaced the top actuator… right behind the radio… it was part #YH1933… so the bottom is the same actuator?

Thanks for the video. Any recommendations??? I have replaced this 3 times on my 2011 f150 and have finally found that the hole that the actuator goes into has been gnarled so it will not grab to turn. It then skips and starts clicking, eventually breaking the actuator. Any advise on what I can do? I was thinking about using a small file and trying to make the "teeth" inside the hole deeper so they are not rounded off. Thanks for any help.

How do i know if the noise i am hearing in my dash is from the UPPER or LOWER Blend Door Acuator before i dig into the repairs?

I have a 2010 Platinum and there's a loud clicking sound coming from behind the radio. Is it that or is it the dvd/CD player.

Why not cut the shaft on dorman part?

Is the top actuator the same as the bottom one

At 32:30 I tried to use the old gear to turn the grooves to 2 o clock but the gears wouldn't move like yours did

Do not need to remove seats even for the flow through console. You cut the ducting going to the back seats with a saw and then glue it back together. Saves removing seats and carpet.

I used a Dorman for my mode actuator and had to replace it multiple times in just a couple years. Went back to oem and it’s lasted for a few years now. So I don’t trust the Dorman even with the warranty

Did you have to remove the center console?

I just went to my local Walmart and got a camping propane heater I don’t have 5 hours to bend my back under my dash 😓

Dan, What was the failure mode? My truck failure mode is: Or all the way cold or all the way hot. Nothing in between. It does the same for driver or passenger side, but can do it independently one side can be in Full Hot and the other in Full Cold. Do you think the problem is the Blend Door? Also, you mention that there are two actuators. One on top and one on the bottom. What is the purpose of each? Thanks

Just changed mine in my 2012. Did a redneck way also..took a sawzail and cut two inches of the end of vent.. blendor came much easier towards pass side.. liked the idea of using old gear..wish I would have thought about that..full. consloe.. on mine, a b@#$%, but saved 950$.. 2.5 hr job..thanks!

Also the post you cut off with the hacksaw blade serves no purpose in a truck that doesn’t have the flow through console. If you have a flow through like I do there’s a duct fitting bolted there to provide a/c and heat to the back seats from the center console. I wish so much that mine was like yours lmao