"Mild modifications, good for about 400kW at the wheels." Suddenly, I want a Barra in my life.

Can almost hear Alan calling out "nah mate wrinkle red"

"Just a mild build, only around 400 kW" *cries in Subaru*

Benny i was doing a job at the Ford engine development centre in Geelong Victoria and mentioned you in conversation. They all knew who you were👍 pity i couldn't take photo's of the hand built prototype Barra sitting on an engine stand but it's going into the ford museum apparently

Enjoying the content in general Benny, great work, just simple and fun to watch 👍

You make it look so easy, even when you go into detail!

Awesome work as always Benny! Motor looks fantastic

Makes me wanna rebuild my barra. Great work, thanks for sharing benny! 👌

Thanks again BCW CANT WAIT TO SEE IT BACK IN THEE OLD UTE an on the dyno cheers Benny

Excellent video Benny, as always! Even if I'm watching in the background while I work, so calming just to have BCW, TSF, or MCM in my headphones.

What an absolute champ this guy is!

Love the comedy of the 'breaking' oil pump gears 😅 Glad you left that in there 👍

So modest Benny!! Love your tubes.

Awesome video mate, really informative explained well

About the heating the block up with circulating hot water: I've heard about people assembling their engine and putting it in a powdercoating oven 👌

bro i love watching your videos very detailed you are a legend

Plenty of tips and knowledge, thanks for the awesome vids. I use a 2mm tip gravity feed spray gun with sieved bicarb to "soda blast" dirty parts, they come up looking like new. Use a mask and do it outside somewhere, you can hit your hand no probs, but I use a welding glove (blowing air into your skin is no fun)

Nice video - detailed content. Make it look easy.

Love the 91DA on the crank seal - EA/EB falcon parts represent!

Good to see you using Hylomar. Way back in 1965 a mate was racing FJ at Symmons Plains and kept blowing head gaskets - I (as a smart alec 14yo) told him to use Hylomar which he finally did after a couple more race days and never blew another one. From memory he was running a 179 with high compression 149 head.

Bennie, You need to look at a CRC Smartwasher! Will clean all the varnish off the oil pump housing sweet as and super easy! Plus they are great for general parts washing too.

Well, that's one Barra that won't be leaking oil again any time soon! Wish I could say the same for mine, the floor of my garage looks like a Jackson Pollock painting.

Benny is the man.

Well done there Benny. Legend

Got to get you a new parts washer fella. Haha. Love it. Keep up the killer builds/vids

pretty cool seeing how the yanks do it. the car scene over there is pretty crazy hey.

Good stuff Benny heaps of help here in no watching these videos

loving the music this episode! sound like you've got the good years Chemical Bros in your pocket. ETA: now it's later years Jamiriquoi-esque!

If you want to tighten your head studs/bolts to secure evenly torqued sealing surface, you start from center. Same goes for oil sump seal, port flange seals and valve cover seal. If you start from corner, it will twist the sealing surface to a propeller. When you tear the engine down, you start from corner, but when fastening nuts and bolts, always from the center out.

This episode has EXCELLENT groovy tunes

Great tunes in the video also :)

Stickers don’t add HP unless installed correctly!!! ☺☺☺ I have to admit it's funny as well as consulting the psychologist ☺☺☺. Love your work Benny .

Modern engine oils do do a good job cleaning but you sometimes have to change the oil more often to get a cleaning effect. I recently had ZDDP oil in my car because my engine developed a bit of piston slap (from all of the oil leaking out from the rusted threads of the low oil pressure sensor, which didn't tell me by the way that I had low oil through its sensing abilities) and the ZDDP really helped eliminate most of the slap. It's a toyota 1z anyway it will run forever. Anyway, I had to change out the ZDDP oil in order to weld my cat back in since it's time for inspection, and after welding in my cat I was driving and realized I forgot to change the Zinc oil. Long story short the CEL turned off after about 100 miles of putting the cat back on, and then I changed the oil for fresh oil, and then after another 50 miles or so the CEL came back on and I was like greeeeat I just ruined this perfectly good cat. So I order a new cat from ebay and the day I order it the CEL turns back off. I guess I was lucky. Since the zinc works by coating surfaces it probably coated up the cat pretty good and then I was lucky enough that I switched the oil fast enough and I think the minor amount of zinc must have burned off the cat and let it start working again. You may ask what this has to do with detergent in modern oils being good at cleaning. Well I changed the oil twice in rapid succession to make sure I got all the zinc out and there was only 100 miles or so between the second and third oil change but it was already totally black. I've seen this before on youtube people explaining this. Sometimes you have to keep changing your oil every 50 or 100 miles until it stops coming out totally black because the engine oil can only hold so much carbon and debris before its saturated. So that's a very long way of saying that yes the oil will clean your engine but it might not get a chance to do so if you only change it every 5,000 miles.

One thing benny didn't mention is when you are tightening the cam caps down make sure the cams are pointing in the right direction and the bottom end is on its timing mark or you will likely bend a valve.

love your channel mate.

Wow, 91DA part number on the timing cover/crank snout seal.... good to see they have stuck to "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" hahaha

Your copyright at the end still says 2019

Awesome content Benny, when does this freshly rebuilt engine goes into your ute ? Btw, what oil would you recommend for these engines ? Thanks

Benny champion man👍

G'day Benny, any chance you can update the links to include the other parts used in this build? Sparesbox link had the gaskets & plugs, but what about the head studs, pump gears, valve springs, etc? And thanks for the content mate, always informative and to the point.

Nice one

Great job Benny! What sort of silicone do you use for the sump and timing cover?

It's been a while since I've rebuilt a engine. It's so satisfying to bring life back into one. Bit of topic but I used to have a territory Barra non turbo and I've now gone to a diesel. I miss the Barra and will selling the diesel. I just dread things going wrong with it. Do you agree?

It's a shame we don't get Barras in Europe, they remind me a lot of my old school bimmer engines. Simple and yet very robust (given you fix some things like the m50 oil pump sprocket nut that backs off at high revs because no reverse threads ..). I also like the inline 6 setup in general, it's a bit long but everything is in the same castings

Yeah I was always shown from centre out, in circular motion

Yea mate 👌

Apparently high flowing the oil pump is a good idea , open it up a lil let it flow , maybe ..

hey benny! nice beginings of a shop. but for the love of god get some proper shop equipement i highly recomend a jet wash cabinet, find a used one but at least a proper solvent tank etc

Great video, like listening to all the helpful tips for engine work, does Moog do the music for your videos 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻🇦🇺🇦🇺🇦🇺🇦🇺

Get up early to do the wheel bearing on my BA see Benny's Barra vid, put the job off.

Nice Smurf towel. 🤘🏻🤘🏻🤘🏻

Interesting to see you using hylomar, I’ve heard so many joes saying not to. I thought it might have gone out of fashion or been superseded with these new mls gaskets PS what brand was that sealant you used on the sump? The application looked a lot easier than trying to squeeze the buggery out of a tube which sucks balls if you have arthritis

Benny , I'm curious why you didn't paint the block when it was down to the long block to keep it from rusting?

G'day Benny, Why do you tension the head starting from the outside bolts to the middle? I was always taught to start in the center and work clockwise toward the outside to push any length differential away from the center rather than to push to the middle . I'll qualify the question being that as a mechanic, I'm a good electrician! ie: I'm a weekend hobbyist! Thanks.

That eBay notification got me excited 😂☹️

I’d really like to know what all the greases sealants and sprays you use

pretty sure meant to torque down from inside going out not out going in... if you could picture a piece of paper instead of a headgasket and u torque from out to in the paper will have a crease in the middle which is a high spot.. thats why we torque inside to out.. but it is what it is.

First time iv seen end to middle on torquing head down.

What sort of stone is that you're using to clean up the machined surfaces?

Looking at going empire elite gear in my ute, I see you weren’t using their pump gears. Did you just have some boundary pump ones hanging around? Love the vids mate

What was sprayed on the gasket? How long do you let that sit before fitting?

Just a suggestion could we get the BHP Conversion of KW when you say KW. We in the UK use bhp lol. Your vids are awesome man 👍

I wish I new how to do this👍

Barra goodness

Awesome job Benny, but watch out with your hands in the cleaner bucket.. they were white dry etc.. think about health 😉😬👌

What brand are those sockets you use with the 1/4" impact driver?

What product did you spray on your head gasket before installing?

Where abouts do u get those stone surfacing blocks from?

Hey Benny, what's the stone u use to deck the block?

Who decides head torque patterns and why do similar engines have different patterns ? Sorry for the odd question but I had a few drinks and am genuinely interested in why.

Do you use a gasket on the timing cover too ?

What's the grey Würth sealant I see you using, please?

Nice job. I’ll never understand black motors, you can’t see the oil leaks

Which is the best Barra engine to buy and how do I identify it ?

I want to slide one of these into a classic econoline pickup. Kind of like what the skid factory guys did with that van. Is it possible to get one in the states?

Hey, What assembly lube are you using? Looks Black and Tacky,

Ol'Bucket of Bolts Trick :D

Sweet...

Spraying the head gasket with sealer lots of debate on the Interwebs, do you do this on your drag engine? And what's your experience with doing it to mlss gaskets, I thought it would be a good thing to do on my Subaru ? What spray did you use, Cheers

Pretty cool to think that people in Australia were capable of designing and manufacturing these.

I think I just saw you on the news

If your comfortable sharing I'd love to know the overall costs.

Did Moog make your intro? Looks good 👌

Shame it's so hard to get parts for a fairly modern solid inline 6 that has a factory manual flywheel in the States. When looking at power to cost I've pretty much got to the "just grab a rando LS or Ford V8 and call it a day" mindset. The result being a E36 95 Coupe with a turbo Ford 4.6l 32v DOHC making ~500hp at the wheels, a RWD converted 99 Celica with a 1GR V6 destroked and turbocharged making ~380hp at the wheels (opted for it over a RWD + turbo 4 cyl swap), and now an RX8 with a turbocharged 4.8l LS making 500hp again at the wheels. I have 2 other Celicas, a RWD with a LE5 destroked down with LNF parts and turbo and an AWD one using a fubar'd WRX as a donor for everything. Those cars are fun and fairly balanced but for raw power it's hard to beat the V8's or V6 in the 1GR's case (had a 1UZ lined up but sold the engine for a 1GR with built head and transmission so rip 1UZ). I had planned on using a turbocharged 2.3 Duratec inline 4 in the RX8 but I generally follow the "if I have something laying around already that gets the job done well then I'm using that" rule and I already had a handful of 4.8 engines.

lol hoping you'll get 300kw benny? mines done 200k km with 300kw stock internals and 3576, you'll be atleast 350kw with a standard 3582 on 98

Benny I have a 06 BF Falcon XR6 that has a blown head gasket, can I do the job without pulling the engine, I ask this because the manual says to remove the sump when taking the front engine cover off, or is there a way around this. Thanks.

woo! notification squad at it again :D

G'day benny, just wanted to no what spark plug gap you run?

Are the car magnets on the wall from like an Australian Rockauto? (4:00)

It's interesting that Australia had specific demand for an inline 6 engine that Ford gave to them through the holden RWD platform. These big car companies will only make and offer things when there is enough demand for them which is why the same offerings weren't made in the US. If you think about it the only similar RWD 4 door passenger cars sold in the US were things like the Chevy Caprice, or the Ford Crown Victoria. But those both just had V8s standard. I wonder what it is about the Australian market that created demand for an inline 6 in place of what would normally be a V8 in America. Does Australia have displacement tax? Or something like that?

Those golden sockets, are they the snap on, Repco, or kinchrome sockets?

What spray are you using on the gaskets, do you use it on all types of gaskets? What’s the benefit?

Benny, try as i might I've been unable to pause your videos in the right spot to work out what sealant you are using for putting the sump on etc. I remember it being mentioned in a previous video but I've been unable to locate the video. Please let me know the brand and type of sealant you are using. Cheers love the show

Who makes that kinky handled ratchet? that looks pretty slick, i have never seen a speed wrench / ratchet combination.

What cleaning stuff did you have in the container, and what did you have in your spray bottle?

How I can get one of this engine?

Whens the next ep coming out??

Are BA turbo long blocks good for much other than boat anchors? Like would you waste your time rebuilding one or just look to source FG replacement?

standard tune / standard engine - worth gaping those plugs? would it cause problems or no gains due to the ECU not being re-mapped?

What did you call the stuff you sprayed on the headgasket ?