He is right on the money, the Mark 1 Focus is the Golden Age of complex enough to be modern, but still simple compared to today's cars, and are VERY reliable and cheap/easy to fix. Esp. with a manual trans.

Amazing channel. More Focus Mk1 videos please.

Great video. I have the 1.6 mark 2.5 estate on 109k miles. Runs great and averages 35 to 45 mpg. We also have a mark 6 fiesta 1.4 on 53k miles with the same Sigma engine. 100% reliable and i service both with regular oil changes etc. good old cars.

I remember my late father buying a bran new focus 1.6 on a T plate when I first drove it I was very impressed with how it handled and drove also this car is still on the road . I've owned a few ford's with this engine and they are very reliable like you said as long as you service them on time using the correct oil they will just go on

Thank you for the knowledge passed on!👍 I`m have Focus 1.6 petrol Zetec 2000 and i think that is good choice for people who don't want to spend a lot of money on a car and want to drive a well-driving car.Sory for my english.Greetings from Poland⬜🟥

Thank you for the video, covered in fine detail, ive saved a 1.6 2001 saloon mot failure, body was fine but everything else rotten, i replaced the subframes front and back and all suspension components. I loved every second of doing work on it, whilst everthing was off, she had a new undercoat sealant so now using her as a daily driver. Just turned 80k and sounds lovley. Only issue i wanted to pick your brains on please, when shes cold, it takes about 5-6 turns to get started although when warm, its instant. What could the problem be? I remember that it used to start on the dot when cold but she turns over quite a bit now. Any ideas please 😊

Amazingly detailed video, thanks for the massive amount of info! Questions, what's the mileage on your Focus? Do these engines vary between the MK1 and the MK2 focus?

I have 1.25 in mk7 Fiesta. That is some sturdy engine. Missed first timing belt change, interval is 8 years or 160k km. I replaced it at 105k and 10 years thankfully nothing happened. Engine wise most expensive repair was clutch at 135k and right engine mount. Plus Fiesta like to destroy it's ball joints that are pressed in wishbone, so every time i needed new one, replaced three wishbones in 147k km.

Have you got a code for the ignition leads as well ? As preferably it's best to keep to Bosch ? Thanks

2003 focus wagon with a 2.0 liter zetec... 367,000 mi and engine runs great.. no oil burning, smooth, minor oil leaks from oil pan... these are a nitemare to change the alternators and of course, they have that plastic thermostat housing that Will go bad every few yrs... one thing we are just now dealing with is the antilock and parking brake dash lites are on... antilock is Not working and No codes for the wheel sensors come up.. what does show is a bizzare ABS code B1342 with a cryptic "Ecu failure for abs module" .. real headache in that to swap in a used module, you have to reprogram it with ur VIN# or it wont work..

13:33 i hace 1.4 petrol mk1 focus.. it doesn't have MAF sensor at all.. dont know why

9:54 correction in order here. That hard plastic line from throttle is a vacuum line which is needed for the EVAP purge valve to operate. The purge valve also has 2 more hard plastic lines as seen in the video, one takes fuel vapors from the charcoal canister to the purge valve, and the other one takes vapors to the intake to be burned. There is also a 2-wire connector that varies the duty-cycle of the purge solenoid, based upon fuel tank pressure. Here is a quote from some research I did as mine has a lean code and trims are too high, and I am in process of testing this valve. When stuck fully open, they lean the car out. They do not normally go full-open, but the duty-cycle as on an IAC also opens and closes within a range. "The Purge is controlled by the PCM with a pulse width modulated switch signal. It is normal for it to cycle rapidly. This allows small amounts of the fuel vapor to be metered into the cylinders. This method allows the system maintain fuel control. One of the main jobs of the evaporative control system purge valve is to maintain a slight negative pressure in the fuel tank so that fuel vapor is not pushed out thought the carbon canister and into the atmosphere.This flow direction draws fresh air through the activated charcoal in the carbon canister. This then removes the fuel from the carbon getting it ready to capture the outward flow that happens when the engine is off and during refueling. So the purge will be on much of the time that the engine is running. It is usually turned off during deceleration and other times briefly to test mixture and run other tests. Fuel tank level has little affect on the amount of time the purge in on". Also of note, EVAP PURGE = EVAP_PCT: This parameter is displayed as a percentage and is normalized for all types of purge systems. EVAP Purge Control commanded OFF will display 0% and EVAP Purge Control commanded fully open will display 100%. This is an important parameter to check if the vehicle is having fuel trim problems. Fuel trim readings may be abnormal, due to normal purge operation. To eliminate EVAP Purge as a potential contributor to a fuel trim problem, block the purge valve inlet to the intake manifold, then recheck fuel trim. Purge valve (VMV) has to have a vacuum line to it for it to operate. Without vacuum, the valve cannot operate. Check vacuum line for a P0422 I will report back if it is indeed the purge stuck open, all things point to it, and a Ford expert told me to test it. It was replaced once 4 yrs. ago on my 2002 ZX3 with a USED part from a junk yard for $11USD 🤣 The one on your firewall looks IDENTICAL to mine. Ford used these on a myriad of models and years. They do go wrong, they are cycling hundreds of times a second to regulate the fuel vapor back into the engine.

Thank you very much for the video! Really no one takes the time to do such a detailed video for these old cars. Mine is 1.6 petrol one from 2005 and I have a strange issue. Whenever I am just about to stop the car (the car is in neutral) the RPMs drop right around 500 then jump back again to 1200-300, then back to 600 and this continues 2-3 times every time I am stopping the car. This happens when the car is warmed up and also I don't think it is running at best when the RPMs actually balance. It almost stalls and I am wondering what the issue may be. So far I've checked the idle control valve (clean it thoroughly), changed the Camshaft sensor, cleaned the crankshaft sensor, replaced the sparkplugs plus new cables, and cleaned the throttle body. If you have any suggestions I will be very thankful! Cheers! P.S. Mine also takes 1-2 second more than yours to start..

Regarding 'common problems', one which I've found widely on the net is the problem of high idling speed. You had such a problem. Did you ever totally fix it? What was the problem? I've replace a split PCV hose, the TPS (because it was sloppy anyhow), IAC because although I'd cleaned it I couldn't test it, cleaned the throttle body completely. I'm stuck. It's vastly improved, but still 'hangs' between gears. Somewhere, there must be a vacuum leak that decays after 15 seconds, or so. That's my thinking. But where? No DTCs and the LTFT settles out at 18% after reset, though starts at 0%. (That's got to be a top clue). Ideas much appreciated. Ta! Forgot to say I've replaced the PCV too. I cut the old one open, thinking there was no spring in it, to see. There is, but would only have an effect when the plunger is sucked to the top of its travel. The new seems to be the same. Of dubious use - though I'm not the engineer who designed the venting. :)

My 2001 model Focus car starts late after trying to start it after a while. It takes about 7-8 seconds. Once it starts, it starts immediately. Also, I smell raw fuel during long startups. I changed the fuel pressure regulator. Previously, the revolution would stick at 1100, but now it operates closer to 900, between 800-900. The fuel pump was also changed 3-4 years ago. We don’t use the car much, it’s still at 110,000 kilometers. It’s as if when the car is left idle, it sends all the gasoline back to the tank and then pumps it when trying to start. I don’t know, what’s your opinion?

there is also 1.8 and 2.0 zetec i have 1.8 85kw

in my country M2C204-A2 is green and M2C195A is red, you get to greb green 195A out there?

7:20 I found out today that mine has collapsed. It doesn't leak, but it's as flat as a pancake when the engine's running. Might explain the misfires when it's idling cold/luke-warm. Where did you get the OEM one? Dealership or Ebay?

Goodafternoon Please help,i have a ford focus 2001 1.8 tdci, i cannot get timing gear seal in south africa, the one with the plate. How to fix the leak.

My apologies in advance if this is somewhat off-topic... My car's more or less the same as yours (a 2002 1.6 automatic), though alas in far worse condition! (What you've done is _amazing_, BTW.) I'd be grateful if you could advise me what options I have for topping up or replacing the power-steering fluid. (Since yours looks the same colour as mine does --- a sort-of blue-ish-green.) According to the Haynes manual, I need WSA-M2C 195-A, but I'm not sure whether that has been superseded by something newer in the intervening couple of decades, or whether it's better to go with something else --- I see that there are now a number of fluids which are designed to prevent leaks. Any help would be much appreciated! Thanks in advance & best wishes.

Where is the Coolant temp sensor located??

Got a really high idle.about 3000 and staying.any ideas

Would you say the 1.4 is underpowered for the weight of the car?

i still have my mk1 at 60.000 on clock whats button on side on automatic she still run like new

OMG it was rich and idling poor due to a mechanic knocking off the vacuum line going to the PURGE VALVE rendering it inoperative. Also idle was dropping with AC on so disconnected battery x 10 minutes, did the IAC relearn idle 2 minutes or more in neutral, then repeat with AC on, IT IS PERFECT NOW! Ford was not the problem, was bone-headed mechanic. On mine the vacuum line comes right off the throttle body to the Purge Valve, pretty short. Remember I mentioned a PURGE will not operate without a vacuum line to it. Neither my PURGE nor my IAC are bad. STFT went to zero pretty fast! Idles 750 NO LOAD 850 or so AC on. Smooth as butter. An expert keeps telling me the IAC will operate without the vacuum line, but if that is the case, why IS there a vacuum line to it? I must admit, I had no Purge-specific codes, like when it went bad 4 years ago it had a code for a "large leak" I did however have a BIG vacuum leak at the throttle body nipple, being wide open to atmosphere.

well generally its ok generally as long as you generally do the general periods of general matinance at the general or around it generally to generally prevent general problems generally around the general cars genrally mechanicaly general component areas of genrally propelling in genrally bacwards and forwards generally in direrctions is generally all the genral maitinance they genrally require with all that genrally every 3 years changed out for genrally the better it's genrally ok . . . . . .GENARALLY SPEAKING !!! . . . . etc , etc ,etc , etc . . . . lmfao !!! .. . 🙂 . . . .So Genrally Do IT . .OK !