Glad to hear it was helpful for you!

Glad to hear!

Thanks!

I'm glad to hear that the install worked well for you!

Thank you for the feedback! Glad to hear you were able to get it going well for your non-neo!

Thank you for the feedback!

Glad to hear it works for you!

I'm glad you found the video helpful! It's odd, but yes, sometimes the imager can take a few tries to work properly.

Glad to hear it worked out for you!

@@FoulNews hi man, could you make videos about Klipper bed mesh levelling with Crtouch and input shaper tutorials with ADXL345 sensor?

@@the-matrix-has-you Yes, I should have a follow-up video for this soon. Aiming to have it done this weekend if time allows.

Glad to hear it's working for you now!

Glad to hear you found it useful!

Glad to hear it worked out for you! It's always difficult to troubleshoot a bad USB cable, but they do seem to fail rather often.

would it be easy just to buy a sonic pad?

Thanks for the feedback! Glad to hear it was helpful for you!

You can still use any slicer that you normally use. If you use Cura, Prusa Slicer or Super Slicer, they can all connect to Moonraker to upload directly to your printer. You can also still save your sliced g-code to your computer and then upload the g-code file right into Mainsail as well.

Glad to hear that the video was helpful and that you're up and running on Klipper! Yes, one of my next vids will be covering what are some helpful things to do after you've converted to Klipper. Hoping to get it out by this coming Wednesday!

Input shaping isn't necessarily required, but will help with quality, especially at higher speeds. Klipper by default increases the printing speed by a bit, so it's normal for your printer to be working a bit more quickly even on default settings.

Yes, but the network config will be different since you'll need to use an Ethernet connection instead of Wi-Fi.

Thanks! There's no real advantage unless you want to make multiple instances of Klipper run off of 1 Pi, even then a 3B+ would be just fine. Klipper doesn't take up a lot of resources at all, so you should be more than good with your set-up.

@@FoulNews Great. Thank you for the clarification. This is important to know given the cost of the Pi's nowadays.

Thanks! I wouldn't waste time using the stock mainboard on the CR-5 pro h with Klipper as most people seem to have issues with it. The better alternative would be using Klipper with an SKR Mini E3 or similar as those boards have much better features and are significantly more reliable. I went through 2 CR-5 Pro H mainboards on mine before I gave up and switched. The light will be disabled, unless you use a Raspberry Pi or similar microcontroller hooked up to a relay board. From there you can configure the Pi in Putty to activate one of the GPIO pins to trigger the relay with a command in Klipper. Since I used the Orange Pi Zero 2 on mine, I wasn't able to get the GPIO pins to function, so I just made a simple physical switch mounted to the outside of the printer to turn the light on and off. If I get some time, I'll do an overview on the setup.

thank you very much for your response and informing me, I'm waiting for the continuation of your videos@@FoulNews

@@ulas9561 Thanks, hoping to get some new content out soon! Just catching up with the final orders of my Black Friday and Cyber Monday sale. After the orders are all shipped out, I should have time to make some new vids.

That is correct. You would either need to do some more configurations or use compatible Klipper Screen hardware. If you want to use the factory screen, follow this guide: www.reddit.com/r/ender3v2/s/uVGJNFKlDz

Did you get a solution?

You should be able to use it, but just make sure you set the correct safe points in the bed mesh section of the printer.cfg as well as safe homing etc...

Mainsail and Fluid have settings for USB cameras as well as timelapse video. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/it9zh9yckqjVZ58.htmlsi=WsLwKj_hiC_6DKyq

Yes, it's possible, but requires a bit of work: github.com/odwdinc/DWIN_T5UIC1_LCD

@@FoulNews THANK YOU!

You can just modify any Ender series config file to suit the V3 SE's setup. Just make sure the config is set correctly for the Sprite extruder. There's config settings out there for the Sprite.

Are you using the exact same USB port on the Pi as when you first connected the Pi to the printer?

I need them too

THAMNKS HOSS CAMNT WATE TO SEA MOAR OFF UR TIE LAND ADVENCHURS ON YER CHAMNEL

Yes, you'll either need to find and use the correct Printer.config file for it or modify the V2 Neo's printer.config file to match the bed size, thermistor, rotation distance etc... also make sure that the max 3 neo uses the same mainboard.

Thanks for the feedback! It sounds like klipper is unable to see the mainboard of your printer. This can happen due to a serial ID not being correct, or missing. Try these steps: 1. Go into mainsail and locate the [mcu] section. In there see what is listed for the field "Serial:" If nothing is in that field, put this in there: /dev/serial/by-id/usb-1a86_USB_Serial-if00-port0 Then save the file and do a firmware restart. If that doesn't fix it, go to step 2. 2. Connect to your host via Putty. Log into your host (Raspberry Pi, or other controller) and then type: ls /dev/serial/by-id hit enter and see what comes up. If nothing comes up, then there's an issue with the USB connection physically or an issue with one of the board's USB controllers. If an address comes up, copy that address and paste it into the "Serial:" field under [mcu] in your printer.cfg file. Usually doing one or the other fixes the issue.

@@FoulNews Thanks for the reply - I followed your suggestions and the results were the same. I confirmed this by powering down the printer, plugging in the Creality display and powering the unit on - just a stock setup. Turned out to be a bad micro SD card and the firmware was never flashing to the mainboard. So I formatted a different micro SD card, loaded the bin file and it worked! Thank you for the reply - your channel is excellent!

@@GregWitt Ah, one of those rare situations! I'm glad to hear you got it all figured out!

Hey CalvBore, it's not a dumb question at all. There's a lot to Klipper and having an ADXL345 Accelerometer isn't a necessity, but it's a useful thing to have for accurately calibrating input shaper. I never even bothered with one on my Ender 3 Pro and it still prints at significantly higher speeds and with better quality than I was able to get with Marlin. I plan on uploading a video this weekend of going over some features of Klipper, including input shaper with this specific printer as well.

@@FoulNews Thanks for the quick response, looking forward to that video! If you do decide to install the accelerometer on a machine, would love to see a video of that too!

Without setting definitions for your own thermistors, I don't believe you can test without the thermistors plugged in. You can always just plug the thermistors into the board without routing the wires through your printer etc... and just let them read ambient temperature, that should get rid of the warnings. If you want to test your extruder, you'll need to define the min_temp for the extruder to be less than the ambient temperature as well. Under the "Machine" tab, check to see if the file mainsail.cfg exists. If for some reason the file does not exist, you can create the file using the configuration from Mainsail over here: github.com/mainsail-crew/mainsail-config/blob/master/client.cfg As for the IP address error, that may have something to do with firewall settings, router settings, browser settings etc... I'd recommend setting a DHCP reservation on your router for your printer so that the IP never changes.

Yes, the Pi 3b will work just fine for Klipper and Mainsail.

When you restart the printer, does the probe do a self-test by going down and coming back up?

@@FoulNews thanks for the reply, The printer connects successfully to Klipper I can Home normally, but when I try to bed mesh calibrate, the probe self test at the center then when it moves to the first corner it probes but gets this error and stops.

@@giovannizo Is the probe deploying at all and hitting the bed on the first probe point or just not moving at all when it gets to the corner. Sometimes the bed may be physically too high, which will interrupt the mesh calibration. If that's the case, you will have to manually set the Z-offset first using PROBE_CALIBRATE in the command line. Then SAVE_CONFIG once you do the paper test etc... if it isn't deploying at all, try reducing the number of probe points in the [bed_mesh] section next to probe count. Try 3,3 first and see what happens. If it's still failing, look under the BL touch portion of the printer.cfg and try swapping around "pin_up_reports_not_triggered: True" change it to False if it's set to true or vice versa. Do the same with "pin_up_touch_mode_reports_triggered: False." You may have to play around with a few combos of that if it's failing still. Another thing to play around with is "stow_on_each_sample: true" that may fix it as well. Unfortunately not all CR Touches are created equally and some don't play nice with the default config file for some reason. Hopefully one of those fixes gets you up and running!

There's a few things that can cause that issue. 1. The Raspberry Pi isn't connected to the printer mainboard all the way. Reseat the USB connection and reboot the printer and Pi. 2. The device ID is incorrect in printer.cfg and will need to be corrected. 3. The wrong firmware was flashed to the printer's mainboard. Make sure that you flash the firmware intended for your mainboard version. You can always create another copy by using putty and going back to cd ~/klipper/ then issuing make menuconfig. Just make sure that the processor on the board matches the configuration that you make when creating the firmware bin file in this step.

The process is pretty much the exact same. You'll just need to verify which board version you have so you can make the correct Klipper firmware for it and you'll also want to make sure to use the correct Printer.cfg file as well.

Can you ping the IP or hostname that you assigned to the Pi?

@@FoulNews no it won’t let me either

You may need to do the makefile command again or double check the directory that Klipper.bin should be in.

Yes, just make sure to either use the config file for that printer or modify the one used here.

@@FoulNews I picked a different firmware thanks tho, didn’t wanna get a pi

No, you'd need to install a Klipper compatible screen. However most folks on Klipper just use the web interface from their computer, phone or tablet. You won't miss the screen once you use the web interface.

@@FoulNews I see. Thank you!

Yes, but you'll need to make sure to use the correct printer.cfg file for the S1, as well as making sure that you create the correct Klipper.bin file for the S1's mainboard.

This just happened to me but I was putting the (name.local) name on instead of the (usarename:) that is the one its asking, I put that info. and it worked like a charm Hope this helps

Usually that's due to either a physical connection not being completed or the wrong bootloader used for your board when creating the flash file.

@@FoulNews Solved, wrong mcu in printer.cfg, this works: [mcu] restart_method: command serial: /dev/ttyAMA0 baud: 250000

......... I just found out im dumb . . . it is written with a space false alarm people (cd ~/klipper

CoreFTP, it's an easy FTP file manager.

You got be kidding me. Klipper has pressure advance, resonance compensation, and so much more

This is a guy who has no idea what Klipper is obviously.

Don't you add klipper over the octoprint module ?

Octoprint is a web interface and so is Mainsail. Klipper is firmware that lives on the 3D printer's mainboard. You could have Klipper firmware and Octoprint, Mainsail, Fluidd, etc... as the interface that lives on the Pi or any other suitable mcu.

You can install Klipper for under $40 these days. A dangerous hack? It's literally just changing firmware to a much more capable firmware and interface. If you really need a screen, you can use Klipper Screen or convert the stock screen to work with Klipper.

⁠ I say a dangerous hack because if you mess up the firmware you break your motherboard. I did that upgrading a reality Ender three V2 neo motherboard because the instructions from Corey reality are incorrect and tell you to use multiple files when updating the screen. They also tell you to flash the motherboard and then the screen, and then they reference a KZfaq video that tells you to flash the screen and then the motherboard, you get that wrong and your motherboard is dead and you have to buy a new one. As far as flashing firmware, they give you multiple files and I discovered in reality you only use one file not more to successfully do it. So it cost me a motherboard. And yes, losing the functionality of your screen is ridiculous. How else are you going to control your Z offset, nozzle temperature, increase your decrease the speed, start stop or pause the print? If you don’t have a screen, that’s ridiculous. So yeah that’s completely outdated hack and using the sonic pad at least gives you a screen. I’m sure you have an answer for how to print but if you can’t control it with the screen, you can’t pause you can’t you can’t stop other than just shutting the power off to the machine if it has a failed print. You’re literally downgrading your machine for clipper in this case

@@AlexDiamonds there's a comprehensive web interface that you can access from any computer or phone on your network. That's how you adjust things and monitor prints without a screen. Klipper is far more advanced than Marlin and doing the conversion incorrectly doesn't brick your mainboard. Again, you can use a Klipper screen compatible screen or convert the factory screen if you really need one.