The winch battery cable should not be connected to the aux posts on the battery as they cannot handle the high currents when winching, they should be on the main posts. Also there is no battery isolation switch from the battery positive cable to the main starting battery.

12 minutes well spent thanks

Bit of an eye opener... ‘SHOCKING’.....I’m ‘CURRENTLY’ mentally reassessing the electrics on my van...previous owner stuff...I’ll be installing an electric fan... and will be protecting the wiring as you mention. That corrugated tubing is ‘pennies’ online..a ‘no brainer’... great video ...

An ancient four wheel drivers proverb, “Winches, diff locks and snatch straps let the inexperienced get deeper into the shit before they get stuck” 😂😂😂 Unfortunately people that are not mechanically inclined have to trust their local “specialist” to set their car up for them and a lot drive off oblivious to the danger of shoddy workmanship and don’t have a clue when something goes wrong out the back of whoop whoop. A couple of tips: Don’t be to embarrassed to ask the installer to explain what he has done and what goes where especially with multiple accessories being fitted. When you get the car home get a very fine permanent marker pen and write on things. Those thermal circuit breakers, fuse holders and even those smaller 6mm red power wires, write what they’re connected to. Just “winch” or “fridge” or whatever it is they’re connected to is enough so that if something does go wrong and you don’t know how to fix it then someone that does will have a much easier time of it. My auto electrician fits plastic caps to those thermal circuit breakers or if you don’t have those a bit of heat shrink will do. Ive been doing that for the last forty years and it’s saved my bacon more than once because it’s easy to forget over time which circuit breaker or red wire is which. Cheers Stuart 🇦🇺

Great advice and good search over entire area. Always fit those auxillary circuit breakers as close to + source as possible and cover all cables with split tubing at the least. Great video again Anthony, cheers

Minor front end collision could be a fire starter.

A real eye opener.

Unprotected wiring like that would be an MOT (annual test) failure in the U.K. 👍🏻🇬🇧

Cheer bro plenty of not what to do’s👍

Split tube loom is $4.95 for 2m. Got some yesterday to tidy up my engine bay. 👍

Rippa video, spot on!

Preach brother!

Great video, mate!

I had their first gen winch and had no breather. Pretty sure it was just one of those wankey selling points.

Fitted a carbon winch a few months ago. The winch comes with some corrugated tube, not enough to do all the cables unfortunately but enough to do the entire length of the main battery cable. Where was the winch isolator? Couldn't see one there but the winch comes with an isolator in the box.

Oh look - how sweet, a battery tray for putting someone else's jumper battery in - to allow you to drive away with theirs too - when all you needed to do - was have a couple of auto-isolators / low battery cut-outs fitted, (such as the ones from Jaycar - you do have Jaycar in Australia don't you - well get some battery disconnects such as these - DUAL BATTERY ISOLATOR / CHARGE / DISCONNECTS - in kit form or basic auto-switch ie: www.jaycar.co.nz/search?text=140+A+dual+battery+&CSRFToken=34399630-f068-4afe-8ba3-fb1d222b04f5 As these allow automatic isolated charging of dual (or more than dual) batteries, whilst keeping them isolated from your main battery should all your silly (I mean necessary) add-ons drain your batteries when out there, playing - or simply leaving on when away fishing (at the local waterhole mainly) Then when you return it's a small little jumper switch - that allows the batteries (still fully charged) to jump any-which-way you want - between ALL THREE of the already fitted batteries - that are there on the left hand side of vehicle - so what the hell is that spare battery tray for (or is that to hold a can or an esky or all three, while you fiddle around installing some other red-hot-wired thingie? ALSO an absolute MUST HAVE - is a dedicated row of "fuses"(?) - I'd use Fully Functional Automatic Circuit Breakers - in a "fixed equipment container" mounted as close as possible, to the positive terminal (or more of these at all batteries if more than one battery) - to INSTANTLY open (to await a physical reset by hand) should any MAJOR positive to earth fault occur, in battery wiring. After that (even if you ONLY use one CB as a major backup - or a bank of CB's for several circuits) - you can run your additional wiring any which STUPID way you want - or run it correctly, slightly over sized (and definitely shielded with heavy duty conduit casing - such as that rippled casing flexible plastic sheathing - of which I prefer to use the RED colour - as it also highlights it as a LIVE POSITIVE - "battery feed wire") Also those silly auto-return closed high current trip relays - they have that seriously sharp flat piece welded on the back of them for a SAFETY reason - as they also have BOLT HOLES that you should use, to attach them directly onto grounded earth metal with - to keep not only all "live" terminals facing as far away from earthed metal as possible, but to also directly earth the units if they fail internally. Just hanging these off some rubber pipes with zero stability and absolutely no earthed mounting - well - stupid is as stupid does (was in a film somewhere - talking of bubba's shrimps or the forest of grump or something)

Replaced the rear discs,pads and SHOES on my 150 land cruiser and just wanted to thank you for your videos which cover this. Can I ask how long is it before the feeling in the fingers I used to hold those brake shoes pins in place whilst fumbling with the springs and clips returns to normal. Thanks for all the information. All the best from Scotland.

awesome

Mate i would drive from NT to get a service from you on my hilux,michanics here are useless untrustworthy

How hard is it to use rubber grommets