I was on the footplate of the Bundaberg Fowler "Ralph" when it had its accident. It was not water hammer but part of the valve gear came adrift. I also assisted in the removal of that cylinder and its replacement so know the story well.

Takes me back to my apprenticeship and matching various components. Good to see the Locomotive being preserved in such a professional way.

Iv watched parts of this series before, but am currently binge watching from the beginning. What a lot of work , what a happy bunch of guys + gals all working towards the same goal what an incredibly talented bunch of people you are too with a very very nicely equipped works , how I’d love to come and work with you. Spotted a “smart + brown model A” lathe in this video, nice little lathe iv the same 1 difficult to find affordable collets for this lathe tho 🙄. Great video guys 👍🏻

Re: springs - "With the right tools, we can move mountains" - beautiful that the skills and capital equipment is still active in the UK to provide these essential services to help the loco come together. Following this with great interest. Thank you.

I thoroughly enjoy a masterful resurrection! Having just watched all videos of the Fowler restoration and having begun thinking it has been awhile since last video, I was delighted you did come back and continue. I anxiously await more. The videography and narration is as superb as all the work on the Fowler I have witnessed.

Great amount of progress. Both old and new components are looking great. The repair to the rusted brake gear with the weld particularly looks as good as new. Thanks for the update!

Of course the stud breaks when you wrench on it while it is still hot. It must cool down to ambient, and then it might be loose and able to be removed. Preparation is the key to success in these endeavors. My first impression when this video came up, was that you have not prepared these studs to be removed. A good heating all around, and even the casting next to the studs. As well as a good iron oxide solvent. Kano Laboratories - KROIL being the superior product available. I enjoy your videos of this progressive restoration. "Never Give up!" L.D.Porta

Great to see this restoration. I used to help out at Scottish Railway Preservation Society, on various engine types. This is more like a Blue Print than a restoration. 😉

Great work Simon and team! I wish I lived closer so I could help!

Amazed the amount of progress you are making !

Well that was a fantastic watch. Very enjoyable can't wait to see the next installment

Just discovered this channel, excellent content.

She has certainly well travelled ,Especially from Tully to lachlan Village! (2547 Kms) I lived close to Forbes at Condoblin,NSW. but never saw the Loco resting at the village,which I understand has been closed. Tully is North Qld and to us in Brisbane,it's like another country , it's so far from us. 😁😁

Thank you so much for bringing this video to me.

Great explanations.

Love it, I've honed many a set of triumph cylinders in my earlier years (Meriden twins). Great to see these skills.

Nice work! I would like to take part right away. It is good if the knowledge and tools are still available. I'm following the series with great interest.

THANK YOU ALL.

👍👌👏 Simply fantastic again and as always (video and work). A lot of progress is shown. Congrats! You are all really great workers. Thanks a lot for making teaching explaining recording editing uploading and sharing this great rescue and restoration mission. Best regards, luck and health to all involved people.

Great work so far, keep it up!

Lovin it guys 👍🏻

well done to that apprentice! that weld job was invisible after paint

Wow!

Always heat the stud which will expand it in the thread breaking the rust bond, then allow to cool completely and spray with CRC then they should come out easy. Never heat the area around the stud as it just shrinks the hole.

Interesting and well presented video, the professional honing would have been worth seeing, it's a accurate sizing operation, when done with the appropriate equipment, the sprung stones which you used on the brake cylinder, simply follow the existing bore, good bad or indifferent, although it does smarten it up . Thank you.

What is the reason for using castings for things like cylinders and other parts on a steam locomotive rather than just welding pieces together to make the same product? I could understand why it was done before welding, but what is the reason for doing it now? Is it just to keep things true to the original design? I know there's a good reason why, I've just always wondered that.

Those new spring sets look a treat. The company that did those, do they only do railway springs or did they do these as a special job for you?

Great work, will the gauge reduction wear some of the components such as brake shafts and springing? That said I'm sure you've checked.

Weve all had an incident in the 1970s

surely then the next question is why the brake column was worn away by the footplate?

To get out the rust seized studs, you don't heat the casting around the studs, you heat the stud and let it cool. Then remove them. Much better results than breaking them off. Also, boring on the Bridgeport mill, the table axis are not locked, and you can see the vise jumping around in the video. Boring bar is screaming and likely dull or the wrong tip geometry and the RPMs are too fast. Too much focus on putty and paint.

Its a shame you couldn't have just used weld to replace the superficial material rusted away on the end plate of the otherwise excellent boiler, rather than the huge job to cut it out and replace