I have a giant chandelier in my dining room and I have cleaned it for years. When you clean any glass that clarity is imperitive , use coffee filters instead of paper towels. No lint! I really enjoy your videos!

Ted, this is still useful a decade later. I remembered your video before mounting some art today. Thank you for all you do for the community. Keep up the photo book/zine content. That is where most of my concentration has been lately. Check out the stuff from Daniel Milnor. You would be good guests on each other's channels.

Thank you for a well thought out approach! Not all of us can afford expensive framing and your right on with your technique! Enjoying your channel and pls. keep up the good work, you are very creative and think things thru unlike some others on ytube!!

Always fun to watch your presentations. I started back in 70's with developing and printing in the darkroom (many thousands of prints), with all the equipment for professional mounting, then coming back into photography in the last decade again. Some further tips for your readers. I am loving printing and framing but cost conscious (in NZ, even a sheet of 4 ply standard matt is $24 NZD from a supplier). I like to keep an eye out in the thrift shop for wooden frames, have picked up a few really nice hardwood frames. Sometimes they need repairing, but often the people grading frames for resale price do not know the difference between what was a $300 frame and a $15 kmart frame, so it is possible to get some nice deals. Also I get mid-range (u1 from briscoes here in nz) or even the cheapest k-mart type frames where i keep just the glass and frame, while repairing the joints on the frame if I need to for the cheaper ones. The larger cheaper frames tend to have thin acrylic which does not feel very nice, so these would be candidates to replace with glass if the frame is decent. These days almost all mat boards, even very cheap stuff is buffered with calcium carbonate; so while not perfectly acid free, they go a long ways - so except when you need a truly 100% archival framing, if there is a decent matt board in a frame, then do not feel like it is going to destroy your print. Regular clear 2mm glass is about 50%+ UV resistant. Watch out for the cheap glass from made in china frames that has a green (or any other color) tint. Investing in a few logan graphics hand tools helps, including the 440-1 bevel matt cutting kit ($55 from B&H), works very well, the point shooter gun (about $70), and the frame joiner studio (125) for pressing in v-nails into the corner joints (least important of these 3 tools if you do not buy damaged frames). You can also get the point shooter gun as part of a kit with a trimmer to trim off backing paper and some framing hardware for about $90 with really quality framing materials. Another thing to get is some foam board, kraft paper for backing and either linen hinging tape or 1/4 inch wide double sided tape to mount the backing paper. I use newspaper without print for initial cleaning the glass (with glass cleaner), then a micro-fibre cloth, and several tries with a gioto rocket blower or static free brush. Always seems to take a couple goes to get all the dust out. I sometimes use a couple archival adhesive corners to line up the print and keep it in place if i need to bring one edge close to the inside window before attaching hinging tape. It is also easy to reposition these until you press them down harder. I like the Archival adhesive hinging tape better than the glue type (easier to use), particularly if mounting RC papers. To make you frame feel nicer, and to increase the archival quality, throw out cheap chip board backing and use a foam backing board instead. Depending on the design, this does nor always work, but most of the time it does, or sometimes you might need a 3mm foam board instead of a 5 mm one. Once you have backing paper into the back of the frame to keep dust out and make it look better, you can screw on a couple d-rings and use some plastic coated framing wire, and looks very nice. Most of this is outlined in various online tutorials. It is a lot of fun, and very rewarding, albeit time consuming. If you cut your own matts, then you can use the center pieces for smaller matts for test prints that came out well, just to have in your box. So if I have a 11 x 14 presentation matt which i have cut out a 7 x 10.5 window from (itself using a 11 x 14 foam board), that leaves the 7 x 10.5 scrap piece of matt. I then cut a window in this for one of my 6 x 9 test prints that came out well, and then mount that onto half a sheet of a3 black foam board, which leaves about an even amount of width for both the white matt and the black foam showing behind. Because the 10x7.5 came from a bevel cut piece, the outside edge of the matter is bevel cut as well, so that you have both the inside and outside edges bevel cut, which looks really nice (hope that is understandable). Some of the smooth fine art papers have a really nice balance of texture and feeling for these smaller prints.

I really liked this video. I like most of your videos, but this was excellent! I was wondering about framing some photos nod I really didn't want to spend $100+ dollars to do it. This hit the spot!

I am an amateur photographer and really appreciated your budget framing solutions.

Thanks a lot for this Ted! Wish I knew this before I had wrapped up the Xmas presents!!!

Thank you for the info. I really love your old videos.

Thank you for the lesson Ted. I appreciate it!

Thanks that was very helpful. One quibble, the white tape you're using to affix the white print to the white backing board is a bit difficult to make out. Different colored materials, if available, would be easier to see.

Any recommendations about framing an image without a Matt using spacers?

Great video and very helpful.

Really helpful and great tips thank you.

MY friend l ! GREAT JOB The Art... ! You need nobody to inspire you ! ... YOU ALREADY GREAT ! YOUR KZfaq CHANNEL IS GREAT !!! JUST KEEP GOING !!!! BELIEVE IN YOURSELF MORE !!! and thanks for your video

Τhank you for sharing, these videos are so useful!!

Beautiful work!

This was so useful!!!! THANK YOU!!

Great hints on protecting our photos from acid and light

Thank you so much...I'm a real novice..this is such a great help🙏🙏🙏

Ted you forgot to mention WHY its important to use a T-hinge instead of having the tape all around all 4 edges of the image... its because it allows the print to expand with heat/cold so it doesnt buckle and warp over time. Also Windex and paper towel is BAD idea. Any paper product just introduces more fibers on under the glass!! Use a lint free cloth and also Sprayway brand glass cleaner is the BEST glass cleaner with no streaks or harsh chemicals like Ammonia which can also hurt your images. A Giotto Rocket blower (same like you use to blow off your lenses) is also helpful to get rid of dust.

can you please tell us exactly what makes a wooden frame cost hundreds of dollars is it the material it is made from and where can we find such frames online

Does any of the Windex residue left on the glass do anything bad to the photo?

Word of caution, based on my (!) experience: I got myself some of that tape and tried to frame a couple of pictures. In the end, on some of the images there was significant warping where the moistened side of the tape met the paper. It wasn’t t like I had soaked the tape or anything btw. It only happened on some of the prints I had made. In the end it turned out that some papers really don’t like that moisture. All of them were RC papers, but different brands (Foma fixed grade RC & Ilford Multigrade RC). The Foma paper was perfectly fine, the Ilford paper had warped. Not a lot, but noticable from a certain angle. Other than that, I had used the same frames, brand of matte board, tape and backing paper.

Can you tell me about the rail you have the foam core sitting on in the background?

Thank you!

Thank You.....

Thanks, I enjoyed that, I would call the images The Corkscrew & The Duck!

This is a somewhat crass comment from me. I sell my own 'fine art prints." They are always B&W. They are always the same size (12.5x18.75 on 13x19 paper)My framer, Dae Ryung in s. Hackensack, NJ USA 16.5x22 black, aluminum frame with a regular, Not acid free, mat and regular glass for between $17.50 and $22 each. I get 10 to 12 at a time and am notorious for reusing them for new work. I wish I could say that everything I do is perfectly "archival" but I just can't afford it. I always have a bin of "loose" prints in clear plastic bags that sell for 1/4 the price of the matted, mounted and framed pieces. My best clients get the print on Canson Baryta instead of Canon semi gloss. I always print my own work in (somewhat) limited editions. One has to balance pride in work with originality and cost.

Thank you sir :)

Very helpful.

thank you sir!

Good vid but why only 360p? Thanks for this tutorial. 👍🏻😀

The normel framing glass will cut out lots of the uv radiation by itself

Ted , You don’t want to use ammonia on your glass, use a ammonia free glass cleaner😦 windex is not ammonia free, other than that thanks for sharing nice job

use microfiber cloth

making a wooden frame with neat joins and a perfect 90 degree angle is exactly a huge task and even harder when the frame is small. this requires a steady hand, sharp eyes and good mathematical skills. The only way to get a good cheap frame is to exploit third world labour or use factory automation.

Thanks for a helpful video. You humility in saying an archivist or professional framer would have a conniption seeing your video is a sign of a guy with his feet on the ground.

use alcohol and water

Ur videos are very interesting, just speak a little SLOWWWWWWWWWWWWW pleaseeeeeeeeee thanks

Por favor por que permiten a esta gente no somos estupidos.

360p!!!!!!!!

IKEA rules

Good video but dragged on a bit.

You speak way too fast!