Yippee ki yay! 😂 Thanks so much man!

Thanks man and appreciate the tips! Round 1 with the stuff humbled me for sure

Find Rob Cosman. He's got a great method for sharpening. I tried many methods then settled on his. Works great.

@@dtalbott2 I've seen Rob's method. It's rather expensive.

Flatten you plane sole, tune up the cap iron, adjust the frog, and sharpen the iron.

Sharpening takes practice. For wood you only really need to use a stone to around 1,000 to 2,000 grit, followed by the strop. You want the surface mirror smooth, but the odd remnanent honing scratch doesn't matter. The two easy tests - if you're careful - are to rest the edge on your thumbnail with the tip of your thumb inclined downward to around 45 degrees. Rest the edge on your nail and lift the back end up to around vertical. If the edge doesn't show any tendency to slip, -it catches on your nail - it's good. The other test is shaving hair off your arm. Once you get practiced you should not be able to feel the blade catch the hair. It will look like the hair is jumping off your arm.

Yes I know the feeling

Machine or hand tool, when it works well it's always a joy to use a good tool! Yes chiseling mortises is the only way for me and it's not even usually a "show" joint

Wow dude thank you!

Awesome, glad you enjoyed it

Thanks! 👍

Awesome man looking forward to your video!

Do you normally use pull saws or push saws? I’ve considered a Japanese saw, but I’ve never used any pull saws before.

Thanks man! Lot of value to just sticking with something. I'm best with my cheap gents saw

@@gareths100 I have found for myself at least, the pull saw is much easier to control. Also, the very fine teeth on the crosscut version of the pull saw help to prevent the saw from "jumping around" as you start your cut. I have definitely tried to use the push saws but with less success on dovetails.

@@gareths100 As an amatuer myself, I find pull saws (I have 2, a Ryoba and Dozuki) are generally easier to start; it takes some experience with a push saw before you can start it on the first stroke. You can get decent ones for cheap, which is nice if you want to try them out.

Pull saws are an inexpensive way to get decent results early, push saws have perhaps a bit more of a learning curve. I learned on push saws many years ago, so that’s what I use still. FWIW, expensive does not always mean good. Rob Cosman’s dovetail saws aren’t cheap, but they are the best I’ve ever used and worth the money in my opinion.

Thanks!

Thanks dude!

Thank you so much!

Haha love it thanks brotha!

Wow thanks a lot and welcome aboard!

Thanks! You've mentioned it before and it sure would have been a good project for a moxon vise! I will make one at some point hopefully soon!

Much appreciated!

Thank you!

Bang!

Awesome thank you!

I think I may add it. Thanks man

😀 Thanks man!

Darn right!

No damage to glass I assume?

@jimcarter4929 none, it's single pump air rifle that only loads a dash of table salt per pump. Amazon bug-a-salt. Don't pay for their salt though. Standard retail table salt is fine.

Yes dude exactly, it's that sinking feeling of isn't there an undo button on this thing 😂

​@@FranksWorkbench I'll add use warm water.

Oh man I'm telling you what! First coat I was like well I guess the video will be called "how I ruined my project" maybe it will get views LOL

😀

Apples and oranges, really. A table top, especially one done without breadboard ends or any joints to prevent warping, is waaay different that a chest like this. The dovetails do not allow any major warping. If the wood is not dry enough, the worst case scenario is the boards splitting in the glueline -- but the paint have nothing to do with that, and a good woodworker offsets the glueline, so the dovetail cannot come apart. Maybe the bottom could warp, but just because he didn't use tongue and groove and elongated screw holes. Besides, he left both sides with raw wood, so no biggie. I did a lot of chests like this and never, ever painted inside -- why would I have the extra job and contaminate the inside with the chemicals of the varnish, just to protect a part that nobody sees anyway and doen't need protection? And if you look at old furniture, nobody did waste expensive finish coating the underside -- even the backside was left raw. People only started painting the inside "recently," with the start of furniture factories and the use of spray. It is easier to spray it all than it is taping the inside. but, of course, if all you do is to sand a a slab of wood, put 4 metal legs and call it a table, you have to varnish the underside and hope for the best.

@@bmandrakeeee8378 NZ over a 10-15 year period changed the construction method (Timber framed) of our housing stock, which led to leaky/rotting homes - a point rammed home at an open air museum in Austria that collected farmhouse's that were built locally from each of the last 100 centuries. For fun I restore a lot of cheaply bought and in need of repair, bits of furniture and then either on-sell or donate away. Professionally I had to use daily some timber runners for 2 specific products we made - that timber was totally untreated and needed to be washed and dried - daily. They all have one thing in common - Timber needs to be able to breath and have freedom of movement - equally. Even a fully sealed chopping-board left standing in water (think wet bench) will crack or warp eventually. It gets worse if only half of it is sealed. The Farmers in Austria used a specific construction technique (raw untreated exposed timber) where the buildings survived/ lasted for several hundred of years - then they started chalking the outside (for looks) and the houses fell over (rotting away) in less then 50 years from being built - or in one case a 400year old building that was chalked. . Live in a humid environment - or if like me you toss your wet rugby boots into a wooden trunk every weekend- you will see the timber doing funny things eventually! That's just been my experience - so as a matter of course i would apply at minimum one coat of linseed oil under or inside draws or tables or whatever regardless of how they are constructed. I wonder if Frank will do a followup in say 3 years time and talk about how well - or not - this has stood the test of time! Have fun

I did explain in detail my way of thinking and linked examples of 300 years-old furniture that was never painted apart from the outside, but the uploader axed what I wrote so, you know, a house is not a chest and dovetails are not pocket screws, but I lost steam to explain after the guy deleted my reply. Good day to you.

Thanks for watching!

Awesome man! I haven't done full restoration myself but good luck to you and enjoy!

Thanks Jim! The trim was all finished up at about 3/4" and the main box was made with 5/4 rough pine finished at about 7/8"

😀

Yes it sure could. I did a video going in a little deeper on doing that. I wouldn't recommend it for smaller set of dovetails but if done carefully it can help with a larger corner like this where there is still going to be a ton of surface area sliding together

For sure man, send me an email! Glad you enjoyed it, was the most fun project I've done ina while!

I appreciate it!

I did have a bit of urea granules in there

Before. But check out my last video (bench design) was from after and it's really not noticeable

Yes sir!

BAHHAHA

😂😂

Lie Nielsen is fav pistol grip, and I like the crown gents saw too

Got these online at Tremont nail company

😂