Super inspiring!!! Beautiful work...thank you..

I’ve been a (serious) amateur woodworker for over 45 years; for a short while, I also operated a small (2.5 man, with me being the 0.5) bespoke furniture business just as a sideline from my own, much bigger, business. I was very, very lucky in that venture because I went into it with a client base and so didn’t have to market it at all. But I do now understand why so few people in the UK can make a viable bespoke furniture venture - and why so many have turned to having a school for woodworking. Anyway, it’s the first video of yours that I have thrown in front of me - and I am very impressed. It’s not the be-all-and-all to have great video production standards as it’s the content that interested me. However, you have cracked both nuts - excellent production and interesting comment. I don’t think I have ever subscribed before after looking at just one video - but you broke that. You obviously didn’t show every step and so I couldn’t see how you prepared your veneer. Burl veneer is very temperamental; curled, brittle, small holes and, to get it right on big sheets, is quite a task. I would suggest using liquid glycerin to wipe over the raw veneer many times; I’ve found that to be a better “relaxing” agent than water. When you butt 2 pieces together, overlap them by a fraction and make a single cut through the overlap; that way, you are (more of less) guaranteed a tight fit between the leaves. Your press method was fine. I use Titebond cold press veneer glue for mine; I can’t say that I know the differences between 1,2 or 3 - or Extend, but the only glueing failures I have had, have been when I’m not using cold press veneer glue. In terms of layout, it’s all very personal. My trait is that I don’t like the tools on show; they do get dusty but it’s more about me striving for a clean and neat workshop. We are moving house soon and I’ve got a much larger workshop in the new place (if only I had had that 20 or 30 years ago). I secured some second hand full height tambour cupboards from a local place closing down. Perfect for me as I can pull the tambours shut and close in the tools. One cupboard has drawers up to 1.5m with shelves above. Another has full height, vertical pull out sheet timber (think drawers but turned vertically); there are 6 pull-outs and it’s on those that I have tools like chisels, hammers, saws etc. my way of working is to take the whole tray of chisels from the rack and to my workbench; rarely does a job need just one chisel; so your chisel rack is exactly the right kind of solution for my way of working. I’m not a fan of dovetails. There are certainly not needed in your rack - in the sense that the box would not fall apart if there were rebate joints instead of dovetails. If you like cutting them - that’s great. If we were back in the day of Chippendale going right through to when I started, you had to have mechanical joints, such as dovetails, as the quality of glue at the time was variable. Now that we have adhesives which are, quite literally, often stronger than the timbers being attached, then mechanical joints are much less needed. What is required is a reasonable amount of surface area for the adhesive to do it’s work - but less than a dovetail gives. As I said, it’s all very personal; your preferred aesthetic to mine to the next guy. I’m very hesitant to use great timber for something as utilitarian as a tool box. It’s a hangover from when good hardwoods we’re so hard to find and very expensive to buy the best stuff. I keep all my offcuts of good hardwood and use them on smaller projects like boxes for family and friends. However, you have tempted me into using some of my oak and walnut for the next tool rack. So much has changed in my time; in fact, everything has changed from the ready availability of high quality timber; better steel for blades; better adhesives - but, most of all, the availability of good quality teaching on demand such as YT offers. Perhaps the biggest benefit for me, now that my body can longer take the physical demands it used to, is quality, affordable, power tools. I can no longer hand saw for long; I can’t prepare slabs by hand any more; I can’t even lift bigger pieces of timber any more - but power does all the basic work leaving me to finesse by hand. Apologies for the length of the reply.

Brilliant idea to glue the veneer in with hose! 👍 Sadly, now I'll have to cover my magnets with veneer!

Ah you're a southpaw! Great tip with the bits of hose clamped to get the curve. Your wall's gonna be nice!

This is magnificent, thanks for sharing this! ( I can’t even imagine what this would cost to buy if something was even remotely as nice as this one you built! )

Beautiful work. My leather chisel roll is jealous.

nice work all around but that back panel is gorgeous

Tip for veneering. If you only veneer one side due to the moisture from the glue the substrate can warp. But since you used mdf, i think you’ll be ok 👍🏼 great video

Nice touch with the magnets. Voiceover works well. A+

Fine craftmanship

Really splendid! Inspiring to watch.

You changed my mind on how to build these. Nice wood instead of unedged ply as is the norm. But you have your chisels mounted backwards! Large to small instead of small to large.

What a beautiful build. I was looking to do something like this at the moment. Thanks for the inspiration!

Beautiful work - thanks for sharing.

Beautiful Work.. I couldn't help but notice the guitar music playing while you were cutting the blind dovetails into the end of that walnut. Who is the artist?

Awesome build mate. Very well executed.

Well, not bad…but awesome. Tnx for sharing.

wow. I'm impressed. New subscriber here.

👍👍

what's the name of the first piece of music please?

I’m going to be making something similar to this soon. Anything to bear in mind that you wish you’d have thought of Patrick?

why dont you have (cheap) vineer on the botom of the panel? dident it cup a lot?