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Friction Tests on canyon lowering devices

  Рет қаралды 26,757

HowNOT2

HowNOT2

Күн бұрын

THIS IS VIDEO 7 OF 10 - See textbook 👉 www.hownot2.co...
Here is a free course featuring Brent Roth about different ways to set up rappels through a canyon. This considers ease of rigging, abrasion, ease of rescue and how efficient it is to move people through the canyon.
Episodes 1-5 show the systems,
Episode 6 shows how it can all be done with 1 device,
Episodes 7-8 are friction tests,
Episodes 9-10 are break tests of the hardware and the knot blocks.
All the episodes are in the textbook
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Friction Test Setup
03:11 - Petzl 8 Joker
06:00 - Camp Ovo
09:03 - Totem
11:33 - Palikoa Pivot
13:10 - CRITR
13:50 - HOODOO

Пікірлер: 71
@HowNOT2
@HowNOT2 2 жыл бұрын
TEXTBOOK: www.hownot2.com/post/canyon-rope-systems & Check out our canyon designs on www.hownot2swag.com Check out our new store! hownot2.store/
@augustinmoinat761
@augustinmoinat761 2 жыл бұрын
He shouldn't be grabbing the top of the linescale, that can throw off the measurement a lot!
@sobertillnoon
@sobertillnoon 2 жыл бұрын
Just doing my part to up engagement: I'm pretty ambivalent about units but I'm a HUGE fan of decimal points. I'm so mad that you didn't go with the KN measure.
@elmeradams8781
@elmeradams8781 2 жыл бұрын
I don't know my own weight in newton's. Just ignorant I guess.
@sobertillnoon
@sobertillnoon 2 жыл бұрын
@@elmeradams8781 he gives a pretty easy conversion like all the time. one kilonewtent is 250 lbs.
@elmeradams8781
@elmeradams8781 2 жыл бұрын
@@sobertillnoon lol kilonewtent
@that_kca
@that_kca Жыл бұрын
@@elmeradams8781 1 kilo == 10ish (9.81 to be less imprecise) newtons == 1/1000 kn
@elmeradams8781
@elmeradams8781 Жыл бұрын
@@that_kca In America we grow up thinking we weigh so many pounds. On the moon we weigh less and other country's weigh themselves in kilograms (no big deal, they must weigh less grams on the moon too). But no their kilograms don't change on the moon (The rest of the world are obviously magic). Turns out kilograms are a measure of mass (doesn't change on the moon, or even in no gravity) and Newtons are a measure of force. On earth we exert 9.8N per gram down, on the moon we exert less force down. It's hard for us Americans to wrap our heads around the metric system.
@bryankano6247
@bryankano6247 2 жыл бұрын
Love these courses, quickly becoming the SOP manual for a generation of rope sports enthusiasts and athletes.
@hardcoreish
@hardcoreish Жыл бұрын
Any chance you could re-do this test without pulling from above the meter to get some/any sense of the actual comparisons? Thanks for the great content!
@Pants13
@Pants13 2 жыл бұрын
As an American I don’t understand pounds. All the climbing literature I’ve read is in newtons, the companies list the strength in newtons and it’s easier to understand as long you didn’t go to high school in the 50’s. I realize this doesn’t matter though. The videos are super entertaining and almost more so because I’ve never gone canyoning. It’s like a whole new world.
@HowNOT2
@HowNOT2 2 жыл бұрын
LS3 doesn't do newtons and I wanted to see the date more finely than kN. I don't think pounds is a great measuring unit but it's widely used enough that everyone should be able to bounce back and forth
@tymoteuszkazubski2755
@tymoteuszkazubski2755 2 жыл бұрын
@@HowNOT2 Linescale 3 quantization is 2lbf or 0.01kN which are almost identical in magnitude.
@TheRealWilliamWhite
@TheRealWilliamWhite 2 жыл бұрын
@@tymoteuszkazubski2755 yes but it's like the argument for Fahrenheit vs Celsius, Celsius is better for science, but Fahrenheit is better for peoples experience 1.11 vs 1.33 doesn't look like a lot, but 250 vs 300 lbs is significant.
@elmeradams8781
@elmeradams8781 Жыл бұрын
In America we grow up thinking we weigh so many pounds. On the moon we weigh less and other country's weigh themselves in kilograms (no big deal, they must weigh less grams on the moon too). But no their kilograms don't change on the moon (The rest of the world is obviously magic). Turns out kilograms are a measure of mass (doesn't change on the moon, or even in no gravity) and Newtons are a measure of force. On earth we exert 9.8N per gram down, on the moon we exert less force down. It's hard for us Americans to wrap our heads around the metric system.
@spam2k
@spam2k 2 жыл бұрын
100 lbs = 45,4 kg 200 lbs = 90,7 kg 220 lbs = 99,8 kg 250 lbs = 113,3 kg 300 lbs = 136,1 kg 400 lbs = 181,4 kg 500 lbs = 226,8 kg 600 lbs = 272,2 kg Freedom units my ass, onscreen pop-ups? Nevertheless, awesome and informative video series!
@ellispercival6177
@ellispercival6177 Жыл бұрын
"Point whatever Kilonewtons" Or just "Newtons"? lol
@jmjmkuba
@jmjmkuba 2 жыл бұрын
But why not use N instead of kN lol On the serious side the hand on the carabiner attacked to the top of the measuring device is probably adding a significant amount of noise to the measurements. Would you be able to avoid that next time?
@HowNOT2
@HowNOT2 2 жыл бұрын
Actually, carabiners in general throw the number off with the LS3. I know how to use the LS3 better now (slings or soft shackles are ideal) but this was still a great demonstration and most things stay consistent during the test to compare one method to the other
@ShurikB93
@ShurikB93 2 жыл бұрын
@@HowNOT2 there is something you don't understand. Your very reasonable and correct argument that units of measurement don't matter only the ratios. Falls on deaf ears, who hate freedom units with their whole heart. A burning passion to shit on this God dam moronic system.
@vieuxacadian9455
@vieuxacadian9455 Жыл бұрын
I must respectfully add in , Wet rope option . stainless steel devices , larger diameter rappel lines ( ex; Bluewater assault line ) . Thanks for the pounds reference as many of Us readily understand it . Great video as always !
@connerjones4554
@connerjones4554 2 жыл бұрын
Phenomenal work. As you keep mentioning, you lack the experience to choose which setup you would use when. That gave me two ideas for videos. Idea 1: have Brent pick a route and give us a rundown of what he actually takes with him. Let him talk for a while about why he would choose each system or piece of gear to take. I would love to just hear his thought process in that evaluation step before the actual outing. Idea 2: once you’ve planned it, film yourselves going down a canyon and test Ryan the entire way. Make him look at the terrain and choose which system to employ with Brent there to grade his choices. It would be a cool follow up for the first video. Love the content, keep it coming.
@HowNOT2
@HowNOT2 2 жыл бұрын
We are doing several canyons for a week in squamish in August and will be doing something like this. Also pre-filming for canyon bolting content we will make this winter when we are stuck inside.
@connerjones4554
@connerjones4554 2 жыл бұрын
@@HowNOT2 hell yea! Super amped dude. Can’t wait.
@ninfabi42
@ninfabi42 2 жыл бұрын
"We dont wanna deal with 0.5, 0.6 kN" then just use Newtons, thats the entire point why the metric system is so much better...
@HowNOT2
@HowNOT2 2 жыл бұрын
Linescale 3 doesn't do just newtons. 50% of my audience understands pounds
@sebastianloessl7982
@sebastianloessl7982 2 жыл бұрын
@@HowNOT2 linescale does kilonewtons, so it automatically does Newtons
@ralfrussel1950
@ralfrussel1950 2 жыл бұрын
@@sebastianloessl7982 Exactly. The point of the metric system.
@sobertillnoon
@sobertillnoon 2 жыл бұрын
@@sebastianloessl7982 I would agree with you however, the linescale 2 only measures in 10s of newtents. So, how do you tell the difference between 0.04 and 0.05? That means you can really only trust the the first decimal point. So you're either saying .4 kilonewtents or 400 newtents. Either way, you're not giving much detail. I realize hundreds of newtents and tens of pounds are essentially the same but not exactly. For getting more visible and trustworthy numbers on the scale the lbs is a better choice in this application esp when you're looking at differences.
@goed1adit
@goed1adit 2 жыл бұрын
@@HowNOT2 the point of metrik system is, you could do the math in a glance.
@pacodelaguardia2362
@pacodelaguardia2362 2 жыл бұрын
I didn't knew I needed this, this is past what I expected to learn from this series, I LOVE IT
@Intermernet
@Intermernet 2 жыл бұрын
Hey, may have missed the video, but have you done a test on some of these techniques with wet ropes? I'm a pretty experienced canyoner and I've found systems like these to be variable under wet rope conditions. Usually only the first rap will be on dry rope, and then everything else is wet. Some systems gain friction on wet rope, and some lose friction. It's weird and interesting and you guys should investigate it. Obviously this is a can of worms and has all the usual dependencies of rope-type, rope diameter, rope condition, device condition etc., but I figure if you're doing the tests, then what better opportunity to investigate these edge cases? EDIT: My hypothesis (which is probably wrong) is that friction on wet ropes is lower on a straight path such as a rack or a whale-tail, but higher when it bends through devices such as eights.
@philliptingle8381
@philliptingle8381 Жыл бұрын
What's the silver device hanging on the wall at the end (16:09 onwards) with the similar design to the CRITR/Palikoa but two tracks?
@ShurikB93
@ShurikB93 2 жыл бұрын
Next time use bigMacs of force, instead of pounds. They are basically the same weight, and it is the real freedom units
@kd5nrh
@kd5nrh Жыл бұрын
IMO, and it would be hard to test, but the real check of rappel gear would be to standardize on a rope and a weight, then measure acceleration and terminal velocity over, say, 50 feet with the brake strand only under its own weight. Might be interesting to see which devices and rigging methods would actually keep a 185 pound climber safe if they completely lost control of the brake strand. Obviously the auto-braking ones would win out, but among passive or mostly passive devices, there could be some surprising results.
@hjeffcoat42
@hjeffcoat42 2 жыл бұрын
Had to at least get a sticker and represent while I'm out in the wild! Love the channel and everything y'all put out!
@Dan-rp7il
@Dan-rp7il Жыл бұрын
i use a totem and put a biner through the stitch plate and the large o spot and it does not move at all under tension and is easy to remove to lower
@dashielpeacock7970
@dashielpeacock7970 2 жыл бұрын
You should do an ascender break test. Maybe test the $30 amazon ascenders
@AZDesertExplorer
@AZDesertExplorer 2 жыл бұрын
Can I enter to win a wall like that?
@AdamEdington
@AdamEdington 2 жыл бұрын
The biggest variable that's unaccounted for is the tension on the signal line
@benjaminbordson7502
@benjaminbordson7502 2 жыл бұрын
Nice! Did you guys end up break testing a Crittr as well?
@HowNOT2
@HowNOT2 2 жыл бұрын
8s and palikoas is what we broke test in the lab
@MrJoebass702
@MrJoebass702 2 жыл бұрын
Love it!
@mitchelldysinger5768
@mitchelldysinger5768 2 жыл бұрын
I know it's not relevant to these courses, however does anyone know the best place online to purchase 3/4 inch amsteal.
@carolineforest4202
@carolineforest4202 2 жыл бұрын
When testing friction devices can you take a temp of heat generated? My camera has an IR temp camera so shouldn't be to expensive to get one. Love your tubes. Answering questions with facts instead of just " that's what the book said" or my old time hate " that's how we've always done it ".
@elmeradams8781
@elmeradams8781 Жыл бұрын
That would be a cool video. How safe are we when descending fast? Since different devices heat up differently and can melt the rope.
@msallamdwiek6415
@msallamdwiek6415 2 жыл бұрын
what's the diameter of the rope? i use the joker a lot and i,ve never experienced any slippage, i usually use the petzl club.
@TrueHelpTV
@TrueHelpTV 2 жыл бұрын
What is the name of the device you're holding at 0:45 or the ornge one next too it at 4:00 i used to use some similar to the orange one that supposedly was discontinued like 8 years ago as an OSHA violation for tower work but we used them for tower painting because we trusted it more when we locked them up with friction binds so if someone dropped a bucket of paint into our gear. That way if it failed hopefully it would just slide/fail until it reached fresh rope vs. seeing auto belayers sometimes fail all together or over time as paint accumulated inside them. I really really want to add one too my current kit. I recall them calling ours a double fisks, but all i can ever find are pictures of what we had, never anything for sale. Apparently OSHA banned them? But we ignored that ban because what we were doing was so specialized vs other tower climbers.
@PPetropulos
@PPetropulos 2 жыл бұрын
Orange device: Imlay Critter 2 Blue Device: PaliKoa Pivot
@razia9689
@razia9689 2 жыл бұрын
I would be interested in comparing such devices with thinner ropes. What is the thinnest ropes used in canyons? Do you have 4mm, 6mm, 8mm dyneema ropes to place through some of the higher friction devices like the Pivot?
@HowNOT2
@HowNOT2 2 жыл бұрын
I believe this was an 8mm rope. I'll check with Brent what type
@tricks1515
@tricks1515 2 жыл бұрын
🤦‍♂️🤦‍♂️ pulling the rope above the line scale 🤦‍♂️🤦‍♂️
@BigBagDragon
@BigBagDragon 2 жыл бұрын
Just to be that guy (and I know any kind of engagement helps you) but if kN (kiloNewton) too big is why not use N (Newton)? It was all about FREEDOM wasn't it? And yes, I really enjoy all your videos and only comment regarding reeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeally unimportant stuff.
@elmeradams8781
@elmeradams8781 Жыл бұрын
It would give a false sense of accuracy. It would be like saying i weigh 201.00lbs when my scale is only accurate down to the lb.
@ColinRichardson
@ColinRichardson 2 жыл бұрын
Are you grabbing the rope ABOVE the device? 6:07 and other times..
@berryreading4809
@berryreading4809 2 жыл бұрын
Looked like he was just trying to simultaneously balance himself and keep the device off the wall, not exactly pulling down enough to considerably change the load... atleast in my opinion 🤷‍♂️👍
@ColinRichardson
@ColinRichardson 2 жыл бұрын
@@berryreading4809 there are other examples, that just happened to be the timestamp where I decided to make a comment about it.
@berryreading4809
@berryreading4809 2 жыл бұрын
@@ColinRichardson But if anything that's making the extremely high forces recorded even higher in reality... I still don't think he was really applying much "pulling force" to the rope, but either way I don't really see it impacting the results in a significant way 🤔 It was kind of either they held pretty great or not at all... regardless of possible hand force subtraction 🤷‍♂️👍
@dragade101
@dragade101 2 жыл бұрын
@01:17, damn. what a heart break.... how are we supposed to have a revolution if you keep switching back and forth?
@dissonance2
@dissonance2 Жыл бұрын
this is the 5th time I have watched this video ( or so), why is Ryan wearing a puffy and Brent a T shirt? things that make you go Hmmmm.... love the channel! just an observation
@dissonance2
@dissonance2 Жыл бұрын
i just notices =-0
@Pseudoswede
@Pseudoswede 3 күн бұрын
1:14 Amen for Freedom Units. ‘Tis confirmed. I now officially love this channel. Please continue to sell my rope products in communist measurements though.
@berryreading4809
@berryreading4809 2 жыл бұрын
I really don't get the complaints about not using Newtons as the measurement... As if converting the weight of a tasty convenient snack food measured in ounces to pounds would simplify things, let alone change the results... 🤷‍♂️ Not to mention strawberry or original?! Not one of these commenters has even specified which flavor of Newton to use! Absolutely ridiculous! 😠
@jeffreyblack666
@jeffreyblack666 Жыл бұрын
There is always the option to just use newtons, without the kilo prefix.
@taylorjohnson00001
@taylorjohnson00001 2 жыл бұрын
Just to be facetious: why are you using pounds?
@clandestin011
@clandestin011 Жыл бұрын
Hum... If you don't want to use kiloNewtons, you know you can always use, you know... Newtons?
@dariocarafa3788
@dariocarafa3788 Жыл бұрын
Would you prefer people donate directly through PayPal or patreon or would you rather people buy gear off the site? Because for example personally I wouldn't be able to do both but I'd be willing to buy a carabiner or donate a couple of bucks but I wouldn't be able to do both. Thank you
@HowNOT2
@HowNOT2 Жыл бұрын
Donating a couple bucks directly via PayPal or Venmo means 100% of that goes back into the lab or the videos.
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