From Dull to Crossgrain Pushcuts in 5 Minutes

Рет қаралды 2,754

8 жыл бұрын

This is my current idea of the most optimized possible approach to achieving a very high push-cutting sharpness as quickly as possible. I use an SPS-II 1k to cut off the old apex and shape the edge bevel until it no longer reflects light, and then set an apex using a suede bench strop pasted with 30 micron CBN emulsion.

Пікірлер: 14

@JDStone20 8 жыл бұрын

I tried it on the canvas part of my strop with some reclaimed slurry, worked great! Also, you can cross the scrath pattern by going tip-to-heel, then heel-to-tip, to add to the burr minimization, along with the short passes.

@JDStone20 8 жыл бұрын

Nice work! Reminds me to give setting the apex on a strop a try.

@heni63 3 жыл бұрын

Thank you!

@l26wang 7 жыл бұрын

Can you do a video with a longer / bigger knife like a 12" chef's knife or Chinese vegetable knire? I'm curious what adjustments you make compared to handling smaller knives.

@steeldrake838 6 жыл бұрын

Yes, eventually. I've actually been changing how I move my knives across the stones recently, so I'll eventually make a video showing a larger knife.

@ataleph1 7 жыл бұрын

Thanks for the video. What is in your opinion the best way to achieve the sturdiest long lasting edge on a kitchen knife made of simple steels like 420, 4116 kroup and 12c27mod ?

@steeldrake838 7 жыл бұрын

Usually, kitchen knives made in those types of steels tend not to be very hard (usually 55 HRC or less), and as a result of that lack of hardness knives made from those types of steels will usually not support a very thin apex. As a result, it is usually a good idea to use a coarser finish on knives in those types of steels, such as using a Norton India F oilstone, You could follow that by stropping the knife on a balsa wood block pasted with a diamond or CBN paste (instead of using a knife steel) and get a durable edge that can be made to last longer by being touched up on the strop between uses (exactly like how steeling a softer kitchen knife between uses can extend the life of the edge, but a pasted strop works better).

@ataleph1 7 жыл бұрын

How about sharpening angles and shapes of cutting edge? I mean can you recommend a specific angle for those types of steel? And maybe convex edge instead of V-edge, is it a good idea for kitchen knives in general and softer steels in particular? (I use KME sharpener which has the ability to apply convex shape to the edge). Thanks!

@steeldrake838 7 жыл бұрын

In general, I would say use ~15 degrees per side if you don't want to use a microbevel, otherwise use the lowest angle your KME allows and then use 20 dps for the microbevel.

@Nobody4rpresident 6 жыл бұрын

Thanks for the information. I have a set of German kitchen knives, a couple hunting blades, a Leatherman Charge and some Swiss Army knives. I am looking at a Norton Crystolon - India Combination Stone (11 1/2") upon your advice above. Is that the same as the "F" stone? I plan on making a balsa strop and giving your technique a try. I am pretty competent with tools and appreciate an expert's hard earned knowledge. The sharpening world is a labyrinth as you well know and I just want some sharp kitchen knives. I think you saved me some frustration and money.

@Nobody4rpresident 6 жыл бұрын

I see....the "F" is for FINE?

@tinman1955 7 жыл бұрын

Are you sure that's a silicone carbide stone? Sigma Power Select II stones are advertised as ceramic.

@steeldrake838 7 жыл бұрын

According to Stu from Tools From Japan (who dealt directly with the manufacturer of these stones in Japan) they are made using silicon carbide abrasive with virtually no binder. The only exception in the SPS-II line which are NOT made this way are the 400, 1200 and 13000 which are conventional aluminum oxide abrasive with a binder.