I agree with your (presumed) assumption that "tearing off" the burr isn't as good as grinding it off. In my experience carefully grinding off the burr works better than the shearing methods that I have tried. However, in the interest of accuracy, I think you did the "draw through wood" technique wrong. The normal way of doing this is to pull the blade through the end grain, not cut into the wood fibers from the side. I believe that you folded the burr over rather strongly by doing this. You can hear the blade squeaking against the paper at the heel of the blade when it won't cut it. I think that's the burr all folded over making a large blunt "blanket" over the top of the edge. Pulling through end grain is more like a tiny little vice pressing against the sides of the blade and pulling the burr off by friction. When you do this, you will notice that a lot of gray or black material is stuck in the grain of the wood, demonstrating that something was removed from the blade. Going from the side of the wood grain does not allow this "vice" action to happen. Again, I think grinding is superior and your results were very nice. Just sharing my observations with you.

An interesting demonstration, but as someone that does use pine to de-burr from time to time, I combine use of pine with ever lighter passes on the stone, and this does tend to work very well in leaving a clean edge. On some steels this can however take some time and patience, and I will experiment with high-angle passes as demonstrated, but I thought it worth mentioning because it doesn't seem to be a fair comparison against my technique (not that I consider myself an expert sharpener). I enjoy your videos and your sharing of ideas, and am glad to have discovered your channel.

I shear my burrs off lightly with a hand held super fine honing stone. I try to matching or go slightly Over the angle I sharpen the blade at to catch the Burr. I can feel the slight resistance if I have the right angle and the Burr is coming off. My line of thinking is that the super fine stone will create the least amount of disturbance as the fresh edge is exposed

After the high angle passes, I'm wondering if you may have over sharpened it, with 4 passes on each side, which introduced a small micro burr. Anytime I do this myself I find that it always cuts better if I leave it alone after doing very light pressure reverse high angle passes on my honing rod, then if I try to do any number of passes on the original sharpening angle, so with that said if there is a tiny micro bevel there, oh well I can live with that, because whenever I try to "fix" it, it just makes it worse

This comparison video was an exciting thing to watch. And painful. I guess I never really thought about the wood dragging method of tearing off burr quite like this before. Just the word tearing makes me shudder after all the work to profile and apex a blade. Your high-angle pass method does seem very useful under similar circumstances, such as edge leading sharpening on a firm abrasive. If using a “slurry” whetstone abrasive, I wonder if one can get the same deburring effect and results using edge trailing strokes with light pressure at a high-angle? In any case, I will try this method out during my next batch of knives. On another note, I’ve noted that some sharpeners, such as yourself, rotate their blade through the curve to the tip, while others just lift the handle slightly with no rotation. I’m curious to know if you think rotating has any advantage over just lifting the handle. One impact I can actually see is the scratch pattern of the knife bevel through the belly to the tip isn’t congruent if one rotates the blade. Thanks again, K

Sir, I have really enjoyed your sharpening videos. While I am a beginner, your technique has allowed me to crack a code that I was missing and I have now turned the corner onto the next phase of sharpening. I graduated a level since watching your videos. Thanks again.

I de-burr with the end grain of a 2x then give it one or two quick stripping passes and that generally seems to refine the edge nice and smooth

Great video brother

I have tried several methods to deburr and edge leading is the best I found. After deburr you can get a finer edge with alternating edge trailing strokes, with low grit stones the difference is quite noticeable.

Great info man!! I totally agree Ive tried pulling through wood, cork. Its works so so, but not great. Ive also tried stropping on bare canvas and leather strop, but the results are not great. Going at a higher angle to sheer the burr off is the way to go!

Drake, thanks forthe video. What stone is this and are you using oil as a lube?

Thanks, it would be for light food prep. So if you have any comment on the wood handle in that setting please let me know if you have used it for that task in regards to ease of cleaning (water)?

Awesome! I have been wanting to see someone compare this.

Murray carters three finger test of edge sharpness? Will it bite in the finger print layer of skin

Did you overgrind on the backsharpening though? I feel like the edge is catching again in 2 spots.

Is that the micarta handle? i am caught between wood and micarta

Can someone please clarify that shearing the burr off with high angle passes on edge leading as opposed to edge trailing makes a differance or is it personal preference.

I’m surprised that you did not use a leather strap with compound. I always use 320 grit silicon carbide stones and they work great and two or three strokes on a leather strop with white compound will give you a razor sharp edge that will shave hair.

After sleeping on this idea, I was wondering what would happen if you did this same test doing Murray Carter technique, were he does a few passes after deburring in wood, or BluntCuts fold and cut technique, again were after he folds the burr to one side, he cuts it off on the stone. What do you think? ;)

Well I have seen mag. images with edges as clean as yours with both the cork, wood and felt block methods. Of course they didn't grind them through hard like you did,. So I guess, in the end, its all about technique, as usual.

Which USB microscope do you recommend?

Everything I have read says that you pull through the hardwood several times

E

According to A.G. Russell; yes the owner of the knife company of the same name. He says to push your knife forward on the stone instead of pulling backwards That way you don't have to worry about a burr,and you still get your perfect apex. Yes it takes more practice to become skillful,but it's the more superior of the two methods,but more care is needed until mastering. If interested? Type his name,and removing burrs into KZfaq search to find him easily he has about 7 or 8 short videos on sharpening knives. In my opinion his knowledge shouldn't be overlooked,and that's for anyone beginners,or experts alike. Everyone have a good day,and keep it on the edge! :)

Your video is upside down T^T