good job for putting that extra shine on there at the end pal.

WHAT A PAIN IN THE ASS ...

Who makes the pry tool you were using to remove the wiring clips?

​@@romanmcdonaldSK. It's nice. Indexable.

@@mattmanyam Thanks!

“the highways, and the biways”

​@@davidhollfelder9940ggvvyccy

We I can definitely tell you that would not happen at a Toyota dealership if it did you point it out to the service manager to get all of the inside of the car deep cleaned.

Your comments are representative of many of us...

I bet you can buy the entire thing -- but it just costs more. He probably saved money doing it this way. It's just a few rivets; not that big of a deal. It's a bit of a headache though.

Try a Skoda Octavia MK2, no bolts holding the metal panel just pop rivets. So you have the worry that if things are not assembled OK, you have to drill all of them off again. So I replaced them with rivet nuts and domed hex bolts. Thanks VW Group.

modern cars.... nothing wrong with a simple crank

That's not too bad.

Don't thank Ford, thank the underpaid poor engineers that are on the payroll from another Ford division in another country that designed this regulator for another car and was told to make it work in this car.😢

A tall cold adult beverage is enough to get the gumption up.

if we all had manufacturers tools available handy jobs would be easy. But nope way too expensive.

inner part of the out door handle on a 2001 ford focus, took about three times to get it set right.

I paid ford $380 the fix my window on a mustang. Ford motor company's of big rip-off in their paint 😞 😞 😞 sucks

Same.

Two summers ago, I took my teenage daughter on a business trip to upstate New York which morphed into a visit to the NY side of Niagara Falls--4 hours north--and thereafter detour at South Main Auto in Avoca NY. We said hello to Mrs. O, bought some nice merch (cotton SMA T-Shirts for $10 a piece), pet their cat before heading out to Watkins Glen on our way home. For me, Eric O is entertaining, educational and an example of someone who takes pride in their work. If I lived closer, I would be gladly fork over money for him and his workers to work on my vehicles.

Yet somehow cars are twice as expensive.

@@calholli government regulations - more safety features, using technology to improve fuel economy, etc.

Been subscribed for years - so need others to hit that button.

If the customer doesn't like the look of something, they are more likely to find fault with it, even a pre-existing condition. Just give the thing a wipe so it presents well.

I actually assumed he had put it in off camera.

Totally true Professor, thanks for clarification. I just did my Kia and the Instability of the Phase Lock Loop Amp meant I had to drop the gain so the Transfer Function was met. I now have a spectrally adjustable admission system that works.

Does the same requirement apply to the starboard vehicle entry portal? Seems to me that the polarity would be reversed.

No, it's DC, so by Lenzes Law, polarity will be unaffected. If you used 3ph AC you would have a serious problem. Hope this helps

I thought it would be to stop any rattles should the rivets come loose

You should see what the front regulator looks like for a 2016 Hyundai Elantra. Deciding to change it myself was a regretful decision that I’ve still not fully recovered from 😂.

I have a video of myself replacing the front window regulator on a 2010 Hyundai Sonata. Also metal panel.

Sometimes it's easier to remove the head of the rivet, then try to drill out the body, especially if the mandrels' still in place.

How many mechanics would do this, my last car came back with a dirty big oily footprint on the carpet!!!!!

@@booradley1510 Honestly, not too many I'd think. When I saw it at the end of a very involved window regulator replacement, I was like wow, you don't see that every day. Folks in Eric's locale fortunate to have him as an option for repairs. I know who I'd go to.

GENERAL PROCEDURES > WINDOW MOTOR INITIALIZATION > DE-INITIALIZATION PROCEDURE -Turn the ignition key ON. -Operate the window control switch in one-touch up mode and remove power from the window motor while the window is moving by one of the following methods: -Disconnect the vehicle battery cable while the window is moving . -Disconnect the window motor connector while the window is moving . -Remove the LH or RH front window motor fuse while the window is moving . -This will de-initialize the window motor and reset the window motor to its original factory settings. -Reconnect the battery cable, window motor connector or window motor fuse before proceeding to the initialization procedure. GENERAL PROCEDURES > WINDOW MOTOR INITIALIZATION > INITIALIZATION PROCEDURE WARNING: Keep objects and body parts clear of the glass panel when carrying out the initialization procedure. During the initialization procedure, the glass panel closes with high force and cannot detect objects in its path. Failure to follow this instruction may result in serious personal injury. NOTE: The front window must be in the full OPEN position for this procedure to operate correctly. NOTE: If the initialization procedure is only partially completed, the front window motor will remain de-initialized and will not operate in one-touch up mode. 5. Turn the ignition key ON. 6. Press and hold the window control switch until the window glass stalls for 2 seconds into the glass top run and release the switch. 7. Pull and hold the window control switch until the window glass stalls for 2 seconds at the bottom of its travel and release the switch. 8. Test for correct window operation by carrying out the one-touch up feature. If the window does not operate correctly, carefully repeat this procedure.

Thanks Mr O! Much appreciated.

Engineer here in the CAD software world who used to be a consultant a long time ago doing implementations at companies including automotive Tier suppliers. I'll tell you how these design flaws happen. That door and its components were probably created by about 5 different companies/suppliers. That is, the regulator was designed/manufactured one by one supplier. The regulator motor was designed/manufactured by a different supplier. The electronic switches came from a different supplier. The harnesses and connectors came from a different supplier. That disregards the door skin, door hinges, and the aluminum sheet that all this stuff is attached to which could very well have come from other suppliers. Each supplier works independent of the other and is protective of their intellectual property which is the CAD model (with the CAD model alone there is enough manufacturing information to manufacture the part). Moreover, the automotive industry uses at least 3 different types of CAD software - Creo, NX, and CATIA, at minimum. Different suppliers use different CAD systems, and no CAD software can read another CAD software's models natively. Thus, when they share their CAD models with the automotive manufacturer, they may provide IGES or STEP files (neutral file format files) which then need to be imported. The files at this point are "dummy" models in that they can't really be modified easily because they are no longer native to any CAD system. Throw in a database that houses all this CAD data at the automotive manufacturer (called a PLM, or Product Lifecycle Management system) where you then have to deal with revision/version control and it becomes VERY complicated. As things get more specialized, at a certain point the automotive manufacturer is nothing more than an assembly house. I used to work for an engine company as a design engineer. It was an interesting education. The pistons were from Kolbenschmidt, the intercoolers were from Modine, the turbochargers from ABB, the governor from Woodward, the oil pumps from another company, etc.. The engine company was nothing more than an assembly house, and my job as a design engineer was often to "design" the plumbing from one system to another. My crowning achievement was that I designed the slip fit for the compressor discharge to intercooler inlet. Yup, I got a gold star for that one.