VERY GOOD ASSEMBLY AND ALL CLEAN AND WELL TORQUED, THANK YOU

Thank you for these instructions and advice you are a man worthy of respect.

Beautiful man! I’ll be doing one of those next week

Hey Gary, I'm rebuilding a BAYA out of an '05 Accord. Got it all done and put back in, worked in all drive gears, line pressure at 140 and 250 in R. When put into Reverse it bound up in such a way that in order to get it to go forward, I'd have to physically push the car back while it was in D to get it to free up. Pulled it back apart and noticed the countershaft end nut was 180 degrees out of phase from the factory punch mark. Pulled the case and found that the shift fork was black and worn on the bottom, the reverse selector was blackened and I think (although I now doubt my memory) that the reverse selector hub was installed upside down. I am however sure that the selector ring was installed correctly. Anyway I went through all of the shafts to make sure all is well. I made triple sure that the countershaft was assembled correctly, put it all back together and the end nut on the countershaft is still 160 degrees out of phase from the factory punch. I've made collars in order to install the parking gear per the factory instructions and applied 200 ftlbs (estimated) in order to try to get it tighter, and still no dice. I have 0.5 mm play in that shaft and the factory specs are .047 mm at the top end. Any thoughts?

very good video Gary i am doing b7 out of odeyes now very timely also good to see assembly video's from you

Hi, Gary! Congratulations on a great inspirational video! Can you help me with advice on what to expect when repairing the transmission? I plan to do the repairs myself. Here's a quick story: From about 20,000 km there was (not always) a slow switch from 3rd to 4th, as well as a slow switch to reverse. The last 5,000 km of the effect began to increase. The last 2,000 km switching to the 4th is already a carefully controlled event by me. I try to be at low revs, because sometimes the delay is a few seconds. There were also moments when he didn't include the 4th at all. The rear also started to turn on with a big delay. Until a week ago, when the rear refused permanently. I shoved her in disgrace in the parking lot. The next day, as I expected, there is no 4th. All solenoids are removed checked and cleaned. There was almost no pollution. I measured the pressure on the 4th connector. It was only 1.5 bar. I know it should be between 8 and 9 bar. There are no diagnostic errors. I have speculations, but I very much hope that you will give possible reasons. Thanks! (Sorry for google translate)

Thanks Mr gary

Thank you Gary

Hello. Excellent roller! On the course of viewing there were questions. 1. In the hydroblock of the valve didn't get jammed? If yes, that as you cleaned them? 2. What spray and why you greased laying? 3. With what lubricant did grease details during assembly? 4. What was the breakage reason? Thanks in advance for answers

Spraying that High Tac directly on the assembly has me twitching! You can coat front and back of the gasket off the assembly. You're not worried about the sticky goo getting into the fluid?

After or during a rebuild can those solenoids be cleaned

Thanks for the vid Gary. Any other recommendations for these units besides the sonnax end plugs?

Hi .I am from Oman i saw your video its really help full and where i can get a overhaul kit.The problem with my gear is when you start cold it wont shift and while driving after 1 min D4 blinks and i think it goes in third then 5min later switch off the engine then start again and its good to go about an hour of city drive at every gear shift it slips and bangs.plz guide me what to look for repair.. Obd says transmission shifting malfunction only

Good

Thank you so much for the video it was incredibly helpful. I was wondering if you might be able to answer a frustrating problem Ive had. I rebuild my baxa about a year ago and since I had this gear whine noise. It wasn't too bad but noticeable and after some research figured it was just the new clutches wearing in (I didn't seen your video and didn't know about the reverse idler gear flip). After some time I noticed a burnt smell and again chalked it up to the clutches breaking in. I was able to get it out and noticed the gear flip but I also noticed my 1st gear clutch pack had probably 2mm of clearance- top steel to snap ring-from new raybestos frictions from last year (maybe 10k miles). The drum and piston look like they got a bit warm as well with some brown burn marks but no warping of the piston. Its just a commuter car, never any towing, usually just used to cart the family around. Are there any common reasons for this, like the gear noise with the idler gear by chance? Anything I should pay special attention to this time around?

Excellent video I have a question what brand can I use on a rebuild kit

Hi Gary, big thanks for detailed video. I rebuilt my accord’s transmission last week. But the shift quality didnt improve. No slip through gear though. Shift smooth as silk. But reverse gear still bangs with little delay. And when i come to complete stop transmission still has little bang after stopping. I think its rough downshift from 2nd to 1st. Can you please advice something?? I did this rebuild first time in my life acter watching your video.🙂. Please help.

Gary I’m pretty old school and enjoy seeing you use the old fashion speed handle and mechanical torque wrenches. So far now battery operated tools. What type of lubricant are you using it you don’t mind my asking. 👍 Artie

Hi, would you please tell us the lube you are using during assembly before you put the shafts in at the 19:25 point in the video?

Good video. You have given me the drive to learn to fix transmissions. I have 3 different automatic transmission building a tool cart just for transmission repair. Any suggestions on what tools I should get other then seal driver set snap ring pliers set

I recently rebuilt a BAXA gearbox on a 2000 Honda Accord 4 Cylinder after watching this video (which is an amazing help). I had a problem with 3rd gear after putting back in which turned out to be a torn o-ring in the 3rd clutch pack piston which I replaced and it fixed that issue. But now I have an issue with taking off in D4, D3 or 1st. Takes off in 2nd without a problem, and engages in Reverse immediately. It feels like it is in neutral until you get the revs up high and then finally gets into gear. Once you are moving it drives perfectly until you come to a dead stop and goes back into neutral. If I disconnect the Shift control solenoid "A" connector, the dash will flash the D4 light, but it feels like all the positions (D4, D3, 2 and 1) have all engaged immediately. I am really just looking for an idea where I should check for problems. I am think the 1st gear clutch maybe okay, because there is no problem when it goes from 2nd back to 1st as long as you don't come to a stop. Could it be a problem with the valve body or something to do with 1st accumulator. Also I am in Australia, so there is no OBDII port to check for codes. Any help or direction you could provide would be greatly appreciated.

Is there a reason you do not replace the valve body plate "Gasket" sheets? (The Black One's)

Hello, I have a question: When disassembling the secondary valve body to do the maintenance (polishing of housings and stems in a b4ra) I found that to remove one of the valves (cpc) you have to remove a closing screw that the manual says " watch out: don't move. " The valve does not move well, it locks, so it would be necessary to make a polish. The manual clearly shows that the other four valves must be removed and does not show this.

What is the tool he uses to install the park gear some kind of punch?

Good Job. Is there a pin inside the Manual Valve ?

Muy lejos está la cámara y no se pueden observar los detalles del armado.

Hi Gary, I had my BAXA transmission repaired but it still not working properly can you send me a remanufacturer to have one ordered.