Glad I could help. Thanks for the donation.

Thanks for watching.

How did it work out?

Howd it go you finished?

I get comments all the time about not using a torque wrench. There comes a time where you have done it so many times that you get a feel for it. A lot of this job relies on how things feel when you are putting something together you can just tell when something is not right. Those 2 cpc valves are the most important thing in those Hondas, that is where most of your shifting problems are going to be. If you get those nice and free and you still have shifting problems then it is probably the linear solenoids. Very rarely the shift solenoids themselves. Thanks, have a great one.

Thanks for watching.

The drum is still probably usable. Usually what happens is the T/C comes apart and plugs the filter. The amount of damage after that is determined by how much they tried to drive it after that. Usually the valves are free in Honda's. With the exception of the CPC valves. Even if they seem free, take them out of the bore and clean the piss out of them. Lube them up well. I like to use Aerokroil on them. When the converter comes apart it will plug up the cooler in the radiator also.You CANNOT flush it out. It will just circulate around the fins and still be plugged. Best solution is to put a new radiator AND an auxilliary cooler. Bare minimum bypass the radiator and put a cooler on it. Sonnax makes several valves for it. I don't find them totally necessary, but I do like to put the end plug kit in. One kit will not do them all. Usually takes at least 2 on this unit. Each kit will have 1 large, 1 medium and 3 small plugs. They do sell them separately as well.

Thanks so much for taking the time to answer.. i will follow your directions exactly!

Try Transtar. Other than that I don't know. You can try Ebay. There is a guy on there selling transmission parts. Don't know anything about him.

It is impossible to say. Anytime you modify something and start boosting power it will shorten its life. How much depends on too many factors to say.

Transgel gold. No longer available. Dr. Tranny red, blue and green is all that is available now.

Torque converter failure. Plugs up the radiator.

​@@CurmudgeonTransmission What is the tool you are using on the mainshaft bearing @2:50

It's a bushing driver. Don't have to have it, you can use just about anything to push it back.

@@CurmudgeonTransmission oh yeah I know what that is...I usually use a large socket to drive them in....I was talking about that "snappy pen thing" you were going around inside of the bearing with. That thing caught my eye!

@@CurmudgeonTransmission disregard! I figured it out, it's a spring loaded center punch

Thanks. I would put 2 of the Sonnax end plug kits in. Get Transtec rebuild kit with Raybestos clutches. Filtran filter. Good T/C from someplace like Precision of New Hampton. Add an auxilliary cooler in parallel not series and replace the radiator. There are usually some motor and transmission mounts that are broken on these so plan on replacing them. DO NOT try to cheap out on the mounts, you will regret it. Some of the mounts can get quite expensive. You can get by with a synthetic fluid on these but for the best shifts use Honda fluid.

I did that for you. I don't measure them on every one. I know how much of the bolt should be sticking up. The ATSG Manual may have it, I don't know I don't have one. Go to their website and the bookstore. Link is in the description.

@@CurmudgeonTransmission thanks a lot bro.. I have a b7xa unit all torn down and am in the process of kind of studying everything so I have a good understanding of what I'm doing.

@@olbricky6824 For some reason it is not showing your last comment so I will respond on this one. Probably 30 years ago I read an article that stated the smooth rolled side should face the gear it is riding on and the side that has the groove should face the other way. I don't remember where I read it, can't find it. It is not in any manual. A few years back I was at a seminar, think it was an ATRA one, and that question came up. They stated it does not matter.

atawesome..thanks again for your help.. I noticed as I was taking apart the rest of the mainshaft, the other two thrust needle bearings were facing opposite directions so I thought it may not matter for reassembly. There seems to be what could be interpreted as a lube groove, on the grooved size that goes around the inner circumfrence of the bearing

I get comments all the time about this. You do not HAVE to soak them. Back when I first started building none of the builders did it. I read that also and soaked them. Then I tried it without doing it and compared them and guess what, you could not tell the difference. I know alot of builders and none of them pre soak their clutches. I have not done it except in rare instances and I have been doing this for 36 years now. Only time I soak them is for a racing build or a carryout that they tell me it is going to sit for a long time before they install it.

@@CurmudgeonTransmission thank's for the answer sir!

No problem, happy rebuilding.

That can be upside down as well. However I am tallking about the slider that is bolted to the servo, that you can now see with the case off. It and the hub it slides on. The hub should have the recess up. And the slider should have the lip up.

@@CurmudgeonTransmissionI’ve made a discovery. The reverse gear slider is not upside down, however, the top of the inner teeth are eaten and rounded. The bottom of the gear that goes directly above the slider is also eaten and rounded. My guess is that the grinding and lack of engagement is directly caused by this. Could it be that I simply replace the slider and the gear that goes directly above to solve the problem?

Could be. Is the hub on correctly also? The piece the slider slides on. The recess should face up.

@@CurmudgeonTransmission Yes the hub is on correctly and the recess faces up, such that the cage bearing sits on top snug. Thankfully, I also have my original transmission to compare to alongside your video!

@@CurmudgeonTransmission​​⁠I’ve made another discovery! When I click the shift fork in place, it settles in lower than yours and does not align with the 10mm hole, unless I slide it up about an 8th of an inch. Come to find out, the bracket with the two ball bearings held down by two 10mm is different than yours and different than the one on my old transmission. I swapped the two brackets and sure enough, it clicked in place and aligned with the 10mm hole. Could the difference in that bracket have caused the gears to misalign when reverse was engaged?

You will be taking it all the way apart. Might as well rebuild it while you are there. It is that involved.

@@CurmudgeonTransmission I thought it would be. but was really hoping it wouldn't. I appreciate the info

You can do either. I choose not to put them in. They just get clogged, especially if it doesn't get flushed properly. They are a fairly large mesh so they only stop large particles.

@@CurmudgeonTransmission so I can do without them then, the 2 of them. Thanks so much. I quite agree with the fact that the mesh are large. I'll remove them