When you watch a ChrisFix and Scotty Kilmer video... you go to the source for one final confirmation.

I BOUGHT A NEW HYUNDAI SONATA IN 2018, I HAVE USED THIS PRODUCT EVERY 6 THOUSANDS MILES, MY 2.0 LITRE TURBO, RUNS LIKE THE DAY I BOUGHT IT, AWESOME PRODUCT

picking some up tomorrow for the mk7 gti with 20k miles

Change your oil way sooner than they tell you to in these cars. Just do it. You’ll thank me later.

GDI Cars should come with catch cans from the factory. Won't solve the problem but may delay needing to prematurely service the valves.

I used this as preventative maintenance on my Kia Soul, then I lost a lot of power. It turns out that my catalytic converter was clogged up, probably from the carbon that was dislodged from the valves. So, yeah it cleans the carbon off the valves, but it can result in expensive repairs to your exhaust system. That $15 can of magic cost me $1500 at the Kia dealership.

thank you for the great video solved a lot for me keep up the good work

Mercury Marine yes the Boat Company has a similar product called "Power Tune" about 10 bucks at your dealer. I use the stuff everyday it also works great as a carb cleaner FSM cleaner I've had it get fuel pumps to working again. Had it bring compression up by removing carbon. Love it and swear by it.

great infofmation

Good product. Any usage on PFI?

Thank you to your relies.

Great video on how to maintain a clean GDI engine 🙌🌞

Dont forget to reset your CHECK ENGINE LIGHT 😎 after.

2014 Kia Rio 1.6L GDI even after using Seafoam regularly, 3500 mi oil changes, top tier fuel, valves get buildup where it impedes the complete closing of valves which allows oil to go through manifold to catalytic converter causing clog and heat damage. No recall on Rio , just Soul at this time but class action lawsuit filed in Federal Court in April 2022 against Kia Motors...Look at Kia excessive oil consumption.

Using Pennzoil ultra platinum 5w20 and a bottle of Chevron Techron Complete, plus good gasoline will go a long way to help. My wife ❤ her 2014 Optima, and only has 22k on it. We are currently on vacation and we have driven over 1200 mi to get here, 75-80 mph while getting 38mpg. I've seen many of these vehicles over 150k miles. I've done a lot of research on the GDI 2014 OPTIMA, best i can tell is try to keep carbon build up at a minimum. And make sure the VIN number does not begin with a 3, these vehicles were assembled in Mexico and have proven to be very problematic. The Pennzoil ultra platinum and Chevron Techron Complete are great products, as is CRC intake and turbo cleaner. I hope my very limited knowledge has helped at least 1 person 😂.

I just ordered a catch can for mine and will use the crc to cleen it

COOL. Wonder if it can also be used on a regular multi point fuel injection system?

I got a Toyota with D4s and do not worry about it anymore. Toyota FTW!

How should I use it on mini cooper S R56 ?

I'm wondering would I be able to do this myself? Is it a DIY sort of fix? Because if so I could simply run to the auto supply store, pick this stuff up and spray away.

Install a catch can. I installed a ine in my Hyundai Tucson and the engine was really smooth afterwards.

I could see this working as preventative maintenance. If you’ve got 150k you’re just going to send carbon through your engine and cat and cause damage. Maybe if you start at 10k and hit it every 10k you might remove the small stuff before it becomes an issue.

I was thinking about getting a new '22 or 23 Kia Carnival with the 3.5 GDI I wonder if I should pass 🤔

What about the turbo? Is all the CRC still going to reach the valves after going through the turbo and intercooler?

Were any tests done for potential piston rings / cylinder wall wear from all this carbon entering the combustion chamber all at once? I imagine it's like sand particles that will scratch the walls and cause eventual engine damage

what is the effect of high humidity on gdi engine? will the air with high humidty solving de carbon?

Good

Any opinion about CRC spray Cleaner for Carbon method?. Bought a 2016 Kia Sorento 2.0Turbo with 68,000 miles, probably had a lot of highway miles.

thanks

Great explanation and visuals, I'll never buy a GDI engine. I'll stick with old school...

So it’ll work on non turbo GDI engines ? I’m gonna try this on my parents 2011 v6 traverse & my wife’s 2015 sonata sport

Nice boost to your sales lol..

How did it reach the spark plugs 😂 without opening them and with the intake valve closed.

Before & after CRC intake valve cleaner

Try two or three imans around a metalic pipe to the fuel intake

Cool product. Where does the dirt actually go?

"Safely dissolves carbon in a controlled manner that prevents large pieces from dislodging in the engine." is their statement. This is better than large lumps of carbon breaking off and ending up in your catalytic converter. Everyone says...use the can until empty. BUT I think a better strategy for a large mileage GDI engine that would have a ton of carbon build up, would be to approach it gradually. I would be doing a quarter can or less once a weak until two cans used. Just gradually remove the carbon build up. I wouldn't want a flood of carbon through the converters and oxygen sensors all at once. Doing it bit by bit might be safer for those components. That will be my strategy.

Word. I gotta get me some of this stuff

it is safe for turbo intercooler direct injection for L15B7 honda civic 2016

Ok what about the MAP sensor on the other side of the throttle body? That is my question?

I want to clean the turbo with this product, do I have to apply the product with the vehicle on?

So I used this today on my 2015 KIA Forte EX GDI. I made sure not to spray it into the MAF sensor, I couldn’t find it anywhere so I proceeded as normal. Turns out there’s not one on my model. So I sprayed it into where it shows on the video, the air duct where the air filter goes. I had my buddy keep the motor revved up to 2,000-3,000 RPM. Everything went okay, so I went to go get on the freeway for 10 minutes as instructed in the video, which was only a 2 minute drive away, as I got up to 35, the engine rattled real bad and a BUNCH of white smoke came out the back. It rattled once more as I got on the freeway, but not nearly as bad, and not as much white smoke the second time. Later in the day I did notice more power to the gas pedal, and higher MPG as indicated on the dash. Engine appears to be running normal. No check engine lights or anything. Is the engine rattle that happened normal? This is the first time I’ve ever done it after finding this video. Engine has 151k miles on it.

Is there a list of mechanics so I can have it done to my Mercedes in KY?

An oil catch-can 100% eliminates this problem. You are welcome.

Can you please say honestly how Hyundai Palisade v6 gdi engine is? Is this very good quality v6 engine? Will this engine run 500k to 600k km? I want to know because I have a confusion to choose from Hyundai Palisade V6, Volkswagen Atlas sel V6, and Honda Pilot Elite V6, please give me the right information because I want to choose a V6 car which will run perfectly 500k to 600k km without any big issues...

lets see if i get an answer... warrenty problems on a ford car? 2.0 turbo?

I have a question. I am using a top tier 91% gas and 100% synthetic oil. When there is noticeable carbon buildup on the tailpipes; Does this means the carbon is building on the intake valves too or is the engine is getting rid of that buildup and exiting it out the tailpipes and out of the system??? Thank you Gary (2017 WRX Limited).

Could this cleaner cause large chunks of carbon to break off and damage the turbo and other components like catalytic converter ? I have run my car now for 20k miles since brand new without gdi cleaners and worried about using it now at this stage.

Wait I don't understand... in the beginning of the video, it says pieces of carbon falling through the valve and eventually making its way into the cat and will burn a hole in the cat. But it also seems like this is exactly what this product makes work.

where can i get in South Africa?

I got an improvement by spraying paraffin into the air intake.

Did anyone tried DW-40 instead?

Alfa Romeo, Toyota, and many others are starting tu use a regular port injector just to solve this. VW/Audí owners needs to buy this by the thousands

Wil this work on my Tesla 3.0 ?

How can i check wether my car has a direct/indirect injection system or a combination of those two??

I have a chevy volt you can't control the rpm on the generator. How would you apply this to my car?

Animation fails to show valve overlap. That was the turbine wheel shown, not an impeller/compressor wheel.

Diesel engines work on the same injection principle(with some differences) how come they don't need valve maintenance so often?

1. Toyota uses dual injection in their D4s that solve problem in its very beginning. 2. You forgot about EGR system that is one of three legs of carbon built-up: PCV crank ventilation system+EGR+GDI. All these three are making the problem real.

and are the procedures the same? but how can i keep the engine running in a hybrid?

The Mazda GDI seems less filthy than other brands. See the Project Farm KZfaq videos- he found that adding Berryman B-12 Chemtool to the gas tank once in awhile and Restore to the engine oil (if the piston rings have a lot of wear) help reduce problems from carbon buildup. A 10 hour drive at 70 mph on a hot day might help, especially for diesel engines. I would like to see a comparison test for different cleaner brands by someone independent, instead of marketing for 1 brand.

CRC Valve Cleaner is the solution but don't follow instructions on can. 2017 Sonata new got 32mpg combined. At 25K now gets 26mpg combined. After cleaning, returned to 32mpg and sets you back into the seat @ WOT, so it works. Bring car to operating temp., spray intake (down flow from any MAF) with full spray at 2500rpm. Engine will choke down and almost die, turn off at this point. Let heat soak for 1 hour. Start and drive for a couple miles and repeat twice (3 times total). Engine will crank longer before starting and will rattle and ping first mile of first cleaning. This method only uses 1/3 can for all three heat soaks. The initial pinging proves that carbon was breaking away after each heat soak. No codes set and 5K mile later (30K). Blow-by from crankcase increases with each acceleration and that is why highway use delays carbon buildup. I am a lead foot with WOT used frequently. I will do one heat soak every oil change from now on. GDI problem handled.

do i need to change my engine oil after using this product?

What is the reason you say do it before a oil change?

How do diesel engines get around this problem? I thought they also have a direct injection system since ever.

I used it on Volvo my V70R. Ran much better but not long after I blew head gasket. Probably not correlated but nervous about using it on my Audi S4.

decarbonizing is also a great solution for this problem

I have an Audi A6 3.0T I would be spraying the supercharger if I do it like the instructions..... what should I do? An how often?

I think is better to use HHO instead of this quimic,

i have the hyundai sonata 2.0t 2017 but I'm not sure where to spray it... because I couldn't find the MAF anywhere... is it safe to spray it through MAP? can anyone can help me please?

You will ALWAYS get carbon build up in Direct Injection (only) engines, period. However, not all build up are equal. -- Thin, dry, sooty, build up -- which are usually mild and will not make a tangible impact on airflow is from valve overlap at lower rpms causing some of the exhaust products to back up into the intake before being sucked back down into the cylinders. If that is all you have, I won't bother to clean it. Dry soot, you see, doesn't really stick! -- Thick, cruddy, oily build up is from OIL in the PCV valve and/or leaky turbo seals. Cleaning it is not really a fix. I guarantee it'll return in 30,000~40,000 miles. Not much you can do about a leaky turbo -- time to replace it or sell the car. But you can install an oil catch can in the PCV system to cut down on 90% of the oil getting to the intakes. You can also use an oil that doesn't evaporate as much and does not cause as much oil vapor to go through the PCV system. In general, use a good synthetic that DOES NOT have a wide viscosity range. In general, the 0W-40 is going to evaporate more than the the 10W30 or 5W20. If you want to be sure look up the evaporation loss numbers for that specific oil.

For best results, can I remove intake manifold and apply directly to the valve?

I buy it. Anyone successful after trying. I have a 2016 lexus is 300 that I just bought. Would love to try it and start out fresh

I have a Hyundai GDI engine thats done 120k miles. No issues - Still 0-60 in 8s and just under 40mpg. So its simply not true that all GDI's suffer from this issue..

Do you have to do an oil change shortly after?

Didn't know there was cleaner made for this! First time hearing about it too. I have a 2017 Honda Civic Hatchback with a 1.5 L GDI turbocharged engine. I have an oil catch can installed to help prevent these carbon deposits. If I were to use this product, would it be a good idea to remove my oil catch can?

and what is a chunk of carbon breaks off were does this chunk go ? right it might do some severe damage in a running engine

can this work on hybrid gdi engines?

on a mpi engine the exhaust valves get carbon so think about it? its just a sales pinch

This is brought to you by CRC

I have a 2016 and the gdi motors and cvt trannys are trash. You need to run sea foam through the intake system ( because gdi doesn't inject gas through the intake like most cars , so they get higher compression ) and take the intake boot off and spray behind the mass air flow sensor. Put boot back on. Rev to 2k rpms and hold it there while someone sprays the sea foam in . After can is empty, turn off car and let hot soak for 15 min. Then start it up, Rev it, drive about 10 min. If smoke doesn't appear right away don't worry it will ( especially in these trash motors , I've done 2 sea foam sprays already and may need a 3rd ) . If no smoke comes out, pull over and turn the car off for 5 min . Start process over again and if you have triptronic where you can control the gears then really get on it 1- 4th gear . Blow all that crap out of your motor. These engines do burn gas esp while using sea foam. Get an oil change shortly after. Smart thing would to be add the liquid kind to the motor and fuel system and drive 100-200 miles and then definitely get an oil change. God bless 🙌 🙏

Diesel engines use direct injection for years ago.. I never heard problems like that...so why gasoline engines does..??

The first drive after letting the engine heat soak for an hour was rough. I experienced severe knock with 2 different vehicles (2016 Mazda MX-5 and 2017 Mazda CX-5). Is that normal? Also, after that first drive, there was no further knock.

Using a high-quality engine oil from one of the big-name brands and changing your oil yourself at 4k miles will save you a lot of headaches later. And put a high-quality fuel injector cleaner in your gas tank every month or so to keep your high-pressure injectors cleaned and spraying the right pattern The better engine oils don't allow the oil to vaporize as much so that helps in reducing carbon build up

Just install a catch can. Looking at the graph the real world driving average RPM will not exceed pass 4K during cruising. Notices there isn't any differences around 3K RPM between a clean or a dirty valves unless you hit 5K RPM or higher.

could someone please show me where to inject the crc product for 2018 Honda Accord LX, and 2019 Honda Civic lx ? I want to use this product in my car but I don’t know where to safely deliver this product in my cars. I’m so frustrated! please help

Try the Italian method. Before oil change, fill the tank with the cleanest and best gas you can get. Add an additive for that method if you want. Then run on high load and high rpm so the engine heats up really well. This will burn the carbon on the valves and everywhere and there you go

Ford doesn't recommend this on their EcoBoost engines, cause the carbon can break off in chunks and damage the turbines on the turbo.

Large carbon break offs will damage the catalytic converter, therefore, it's a good idea to remove a good catalytic converter and install a bad one, run it for a while, then reinstall a good catalytic converter.

Im angry because i havent been able to buy this in Mexico anymore

Why can't I used it on a turbo diesel engine

Appreciate another great product but we have avoided these issues by avoiding vehicles with GDI engines. 2011 Jeep Grand Cherokee, 2013 FIAT Abarth, and an old SAAB. All are port injected. FCA seems slow to adopt GDI thank goodness.

Use lucus injection cleaner

You need a 10 mm scope cam and some minor tools once you remove the intake manifold. Some vehicles will be harder to clean as the bore is deeper. To pickup the loose bits that your take out manually you need a shop vac with a hose that goes into the intake port. I takes time but yes you can call it the deposits, we just did it to a GM traverse with 150,000 km and it was nasty very nasty. This product is a scam and the deposits still need to be vacuumed out. This product was returned 1 hour after being used as it did not do squat.

If you have a GDI engine, never let the vehicle just sit and idle for long periods of time. This is when most of the deposits occur. When in the drive through shut the engine off, waiting for friends you pick up ect. Another thing that helps is being a little heavy on the gas in first and second, and a good spirited highway drive at least once a week. These are the tips I have read about that seem to make the most sense.

Toyota uses direct and indirect fuel injectors on its engines as in both in the one engine

Not completely true. Some GDI engines have purge solenoid valve that takes fuel vapors from tank into air intake, thereby putting some gas vapors over the intake valves. Therefore, if you use something like Lucas fuel treatment, you should get some cleaning effect. How significant? Probably slightly, but better than nothing.

As a professional tech, I can confirm, that your cleaner does not work.

In the 1950's and 60's American made cars had a 'dump tube'... allowing the bottom of the crank case to 'vent' to atmosphere. By adding a PCV and "VACUUM" to that system, you are effective creating a 'mist' from the oil in your engine... That misted oil then is introduced to your engine, intake. The bottom end of your crank case only produces about 2 pounds of pressure... Your vacuum system produces up to 10-15 pounds at times... So.. you're 'sucking 6-8 times the volume of what is necessary to simply "VENT" your lower crank case. Plug, by pass your PCV system and just leave a 'vent' tube for your lower crank case to equalize that pressure.

Hho is good