Yes, it is rock solid! The chainsaw idea is brilliant. Thanks for the idea.

I used a Sawzall on the 2 I did. But good job. I used wood to replace both transom. The lund I had to remove the rear deck as you stated..

Chain saw great idea

Thanks Eric. I appreciate the comment.

The hardest part is doing it RIGHT! Every step down the Cheapest path is just another step into doing it over again, or accepting second-rate results that you wouldn't expect to pay full price for. 1st. leave the inner skin "Completely" alone. (options later). 2nd. cut the ""ENTIRE"" outer away,, Leaving 3 to 4 inches revied around. 3rd. Dig it ALL OUT! side to side and Clean the bottom completely. 4th using 3/4 melamine, Skin the back creating a form, clamp & thru bolt using 1/2" PVC a needed spacers. Now you have the opportunity to decide whether you want a notched-back or a "Full" Flatback transom. The Flatback is "Ideal" for the installation of a jack plate for every reason a jack plate is superior to a Hard transom mount. I personally install ones with longer shafts. To get the Powerhead UP & OUT of the water plus having the ability to kick along much shallower. Besides, your process is very time-consuming for nothing added.

@@bobandrews2328 God? Is that you? Make suggestions, not how you're somehow better than the next guy. Dick!

I appreciate that.

I am sure it works fantastically. IF YOU FOLLOW THE INSTRUCTIONS. This guy just made things worse. A year or so from now and this boat will fall apart where he failed to spend the money and where he failed to remove the corner wood will be completely rotted and gone. That little gap on top? Gonna screw it all. If you can't do it right, don't do it. 200 more woulda finished it right along with a little more work for the corners. Sloppy all the way and now... when it has to all come out, he will spend thousands instead of 200 more.

@@daddski1 Agree....

@@daddski1 If he keeps his boat indoors that's gonna last forever

@@daddski1 looks like his newest video confirms you're FOS

@@daddski1 The only good tip I got was the transom goo

Thank you!

I was a boat repair tech for 25 years and probly did 100 transom in my time working on boats I've been disabled for the past 12 years in my time as a repair tech my primary boat repair was on fiberglass boats however I have done some aluminum boat repairs including transom I must say by not removing all of the wood has made weak spots at the edges where the wood meets the pour I have used the Coosa and plywood but never the pour however having removing as many as I have I can say with 100% confidence the remaining wood was still holding moisture this fact will inhibit the bond if you noticed the dark color of the wood on the floor that was because it was wet also by putting the foam to (keep the water out) I can tell you from experience that polyurethane foam also soaks up and holds water but I also would've taken the motorwell out and gotten the rest of the wood out it really wouldn't have been that much trouble and he would've had a better job getting all the rotten wood out I did like his angle aluminum over the top idea instead of using the old piece and I do applaude him for trying to do it himself n do like the pour transom be advised i am not bagging on his work but trying to help others who may read this

Amazing how much shit one dude who has no idea what he is doing can do wrong ! FFS, expanding foam ?

Hi Buggy Man. Thanks for the info.

I agree one hundred percent I used it around the outdrive on the transom it's the only way to go, 5200 is great stuff

Absolutely agree. I use 5200 for below the waterline and 4200 for above. 5200 is a permanent bond and 4200 is UV stable, I use it for deck fittings, windows, port lights, railings, screws, etc. 5200 is some strong, nasty stuff. There's also Sika-Flex which is great for above the waterline.

Thanks Gary. I figure the boat was useless as is, so worst case scenario is, I leave it in the same condition.

I'm so glad it helped. Thanks for watching.

Hi Matt. Good to hear! I'm glad it helped. So far mine has been performing flawlessly. I'm sure yours will too.

Thanks for the encouragement.

Jesus, do not tell people this is a perfectly fine repair, you guys do not take boats seriously. I don't care if it's better than it was, people DROWN every year because of poor boat repairs. You guys need to realize there is a SAFETY FACTOR built into boats, or stronger than it needs to be. That safety factor WAS NOT met with this repair. Telling others its will be safe is just plain BAD advise. Hope it doesn't kill someone.

@@andrewweymouth202 Alot of people are also killed every day in car wrecks and a lot of people die from being fat obese slobs and eating poorly, I would feel perfectly fine getting in this guy's boat and going fishing with him! You need to calm the fuck down sir!

@@andrewweymouth202 If you're that damn scared and paranoid maybe you should take up origami. Make sure to wear safety gloves so you don't get a terrible paper cut!

@@joshotey2967 if you watched this video and thought it was a repaired properly, you know absolutely nothing about boat design, safety, or repair. You've done nothing but shown how ignorant you are. Good job. Go look at some of the other comments. You might learn something.

@@andrewweymouth202 dude, you need to take medication! Nobody is going to drown if the transom repair fails, which is highly unlikely. Yes, I probably would have removed all of the old wood, but I seriously doubt the transom repair will fail. It will be fine. I do agree that he should have used fiberglass and resin to fill the gap, which he can still do later.

Thanks for the constructive feedback. I've thought more than once about taking it down, but I realize with lots of views, comes lots of comments, good and bad. I was originally going to remove the skins, but I wasn't sure I could reconstruct it properly, so I did what I knew I could do. Its definitely not perfect, but it has been holding up well and it got me back on the water.

@@GoMidwestFishing Think we all learned from the video, and some good input from viewers. Appreciate you did the video ! Follow up updates will be appreciated .

there is a huge difference between a "hater" and a very concerned professional friend

Haha.. come over anytime!

I appreciate that. Thanks for the comment.

Thanks for the comment. The only part of the old transom left was up in the corners, and that wood was still pretty solid. Otherwise the entire cavity was filled with the resin and formed one big piece. There are several bolts going through the transom too that hold it in place. Its very solid and not going anywhere. I guess I'm not entirely sure what you are asking, but I can tell you that it has held up perfectly after several fishing seasons now.

@@GoMidwestFishing Hi I have a soft transom in one place, the point I was making is the transom can only be as strong as the connection to the boat, the aluminum or fibreglass formwork? can not offer any substantial strength. The only strength can be where the joint of the remains of the transom join to the resin, and without some physical reinforcement to the joint. Not sure I would be happy strapping my 130hp to the back of the boat. Again a great video u did . Mike in NZ

Your welcome. You are one of the few who really "gets it." This video was really about problem solving and finding ways to overcome obstacles. These techniques can be applied to anything. I learn by doing, which means I will make mistakes and it may not be perfect the first time, but now I have that experience behind me if I ever do it again.

Hey pal, I’m a little envious on the way that you pick that motor up using the auto jack… How many guys have auto jacks in their garage is huh??

Thanks Glen. I enjoy the troubleshooting process. I learned a lot and its been holding up great for a couple seasons now.

Hi Joe and Kari. Thanks for the kind words. It definitely got more negative comments than I expected, but it also got way more views than I expected it to get, so I'll just take it as a sign of success. I can tell you from actually using this product that it is stronger than using wood. I've put it to the test and it's holding up great. The haters are just giving opinions without any actual facts or experience. Thanks for being one of the good guys out there.

I don't think leaving the wood in the corner matters like you said it Bonds with the wood, all the pressure on the transom is where the motor mounts up and that is reinforced, I'm DYI guy myself can't please everyone just got to please yourself😉

not true at all, stop assuming. We are not haters in the first place. We are professional;s. We know what he did wrong because we have dealt with this stuff for a very long . IF you think it was a good job, you buy that boat friend when he sells it. what amazes me is you can see what he did wrong,, you see the end results and still tell him hey! great job, here's your participation trophy. Being honest to him might have saved someone a year or two from now.

Yeah....I would have went with the 5200 I owing he was going to have warp issues. He could have used the low temp rods for filling holes to weld that edge since he was pouring that. The pour would have supported and protected that filler weld but at least he was putting in the effort and it's all a learning process. Props to him for trying what a million other boat owners would have never tried.

I agree!

I'm glad you found my informational videos interesting to watch. I try to keep the boring parts out. I appreciate you watching even though you may never need to know this stuff.

@@GoMidwestFishing it was absolutely not boring, it's always fun and interesting to see someone doing a "half ass job" and don't even know it

I agree. I would’ve used some body hammers and straighten the transom on the exterior and use heat and water to quench to shrink the metal to take the wrinkles out. I would’ve also inserted some Kevlar cloth. Especially at the corners and the bottom and top edge.

I agree!!! this way there is no AIR POCKETS!!!

Your Gramps sounds like a smart man. Thanks for the report card. Looks like I did pretty good. 😁

Good luck on your project.

@@GoMidwestFishing Thank you.

Layered up womanized...glued up. Don't go down as deep just slightly below the support panel inside the boat where you tried welding. (You can then run an angle piece to tie the transom to the support panel) Then lay another piece of womanized sandwiched up clear across the whole length on the inside of the transom. Cover it with aluminum, or just paint it...use longer motor attach bolts. I have done this on 14 foot boats to 24 foot boats and it lasts forever....marine grade plywood is over rated. Much cheaper to do, but if you don't try and go to clear down past the support panel just above the floor it goes much quicker and is plenty strong and stiff across the stern. I have to admire your work around tho....nothing like a job that succeeds no matter how you get it done. Good show....

Sounds like you did a great job if its still going.

It appears we both get to learn new things by watching each others channel. It makes me wonder how we learned anything before youtube.

I love this stuff. I've seen several different manufactures now, and they all seem pretty great. I'm sure it will outlast the boat.

Thanks for the comment. It really did work great!

Yep, its basically the same stuff. I'm glad to hear that it worked out for you. This stuff is amazing.

Hi JB Shark. It wasn't too bad to do. Anyone with a little know how can get it done. Don't listen to all the naysayers on here. I've been using it for over a year now and it has been flawless. Good luck on the build.

Curved/irregular hinges just don't work. The wood left was just on top. Bottom is full width. The wood was irregular enough to lock the orientation in. The material confirmed to the wood and gripped it 100%. But yeah, the rest will probably rot eventually but there's a reason why that piece wasn't rotten yet. Less water reaches it.

Does anyone really think that the new carbon core that was installed has “less” strength than the rotten piece of wood that came out of it? Really ! I expect the repair may even be stronger than the original.

@@gerrylormr8299 The material he installed will indeed be very strong. The wood he left on the outsides is already harboring rot at it's edge and that rot will spread. He will end up with a very strong center of a transom flanked by 8 or 10 inches of effectively nothing but the outer sheets of aluminum. Eventually, and possibly soon, the weight and torque of that motor will cause the transom to flex at the point where the poured material meets whats left of that wood.

I would think at the very least, drilling holes into the wood for the new epoxy to bond to would have been a good idea to spread out the transition between the wood and carbon core. A line of 3/4" holes drilled into the wood with an extended drill bit would act as fingers between the carbon core and wood. Drill them at a diagonal from the top and use a rod to push the liquid in and air out once you pour the transom.

@@the_omg3242 that is a good idea but the irregular surface of the wood meeting the chemicals is more than enough to provide mechanical locking as well as increasing the surface area for bonding. Just see how much sanding of a flat surface does for bonding ability of paint, then the ridges in torn wood seem like Mount Everest in comparison. 👍

f sure

I believe the speed increase was from raising the motor. Many people have said the same thing, so that's probably the reason. I thought about replacing the engine, but after many comments on what a great engine that is, I decided to keep it. It still runs great! Thanks for watching.

Thanks, I appreciate that. I try, but sometimes I need a break of all the negativity. It's people like you that keep me motivated.

@@GoMidwestFishing Hey man, your video title is an eye catcher for sure.. it peeked my curiosity right away when I read 'liquid transom'. I'm not going to lie.. there were a lot of moments where I cringed, and then thought to myself: "that's not going to work... well, it was worth a shot.." But then you came at the problem from a different angle and found a reasonable solution with the resources and skill level available to you and completely proved me wrong!!! And did so in the most modest, informative and thorough way possible!! And guess what, as many of the comments that I've read here can attest to, some mistakes were made, a lot of lessons were learned, but most importantly, you inspired a lot of people to lose that initial fear, and just take the plunge and do your best and hope for a good outcome. Because at the end of the day, "there are multiple ways to skin the cow".. and you sir made it work in an economic and efficient-for-you manner, so kudos to you my friend and to hell with all the "experts" and naysayers. I'll start believing them once I've seen their documented and filmed version of such transom repair/replacement.. until then.. to hell with them!!!

@@rudytamayo2646 Wow, That made me smile. Thanks for that.

@@GoMidwestFishing glad to hear it man 👍👍👍 keep up the good work 🍻💪💪💪

I agree. It has been a solid runner since I've owned it.

Hi Gary. That's great to hear. It makes me feel like I was on the right track then. Its been holding up great, and I love it. I'm glad it worked for you too.

Exactly! Its still working great after 3 years.

Drilling some holes into the left and right wood sections and pushing rebar into the holes and leaving the rebar sticking out two to three inches would tie and bond the wood to the core material for added strength. What is the beehive that someone talked about?

I agree. This stuff is strong! Glad to know someone else used it too.

I also use transom savers on my boats. The real problem is that the transom is made of wood, and if it gets wet enough, it will eventually rot. That's what is great about the composite transoms. They won't rot in water. Thanks Chris for the comment.

Yet that is exactly how transoms are built. When I was a kid, I did fiberglass work on boats. I think I rebuilt probably 10 outboard motorboat transoms. The strength is achieved by sandwiching the transom between the inner and outer skins of the boat. It looks to me that the resin used produces a pretty good bond with the aluminum, adding to that strength. The only issue I can see with it is that unlike plywood, the resin probably doesn't have a whole lot of structural strength across the width of the boat. So it may eventually develop cracks. Maybe it has glass fiber reinforcement, I don't know.

@@JW-fq1pp Depends how much flex the cured product has. Apparently it is designed to have some flex and is not brittle.

@@JW-fq1pp that is not wnat he is talking about. He is talking about the fact that the transom is not complete now. He failed to do the whole job in order to save 200 dollars. It will bite him or someone else one day when that transom rips the back of the boat off. Not IF but when

Thanks for the nice comment. It does complicate things to film it all, but I know there are many people trying to do the same thing, so hopefully it helps you by watching someone else do it first.

Thanks Ken. I appreciate the feedback. I try to make videos for the average person (which I consider myself to be). I love hearing comments confirming that.

Hi Tim. I appreciate your thoughts. I would have to agree with most of what you said. The original top cap was just folded over without actually being connected to the inner side. That's why I didn't permanently connect the top cap together. I'm going to talk to carbon core to see if you can pour new product over old. The instructions say to do it in one continuous pour, so I'd assume probably not. No worries about the long comment. I like when people put some thought into what they want to say, and give some helpful feedback. I learn as I do things, so I enjoy hearing other opinions.

Thanks for the info

1973

Glad to help

Looking back on mine, I think adding some kind of rebar would have been a better way of doing it. I don't see why you couldn't do it that way. Good luck on your build!

Thanks for the info. I've watched a few people use Sea Cast. Looks like a good product as well.

Idk man have you seen the carbon core video that stuff tested stronger then plywood .

You couldn’t be more wrong. These liquid transom product are more durable, and more structurally sound than any marine plywood made.

@@buellb0y possible, in perfect world, but that would be if you removed all of the rotted wood and the liquid could get decent adhesion to all surfaces between skins and on the side edges. And all the surfaces were thoroughly cleaned from debris and any contamination or oils.... and then the transom sealed to prevent further water intrusion, But that’s not what occurred here. Bottom line there is a right way and a wrong way, and there was not a lot of “right” going on here. The remaining wood WILL deteriorate because spray foam is not a waterproof barrier. And when the transom buckles and flexes later on and needs to be fixed, again, the process will be a debacle. The moral of the story is these snake oil solutions are temporary and cheap, and while delaying the inevitable, nothing beats doing it right the first time.

@@buellb0y only when properly installed.

@@jhudds67 thats a really long paragraph to tell everyone that you have zero clue what you're talking about.

Buoyancy foam doesn't break down in water ? LOL

Thanks for the comment. Good luck on yours!

Hi Steve. I'm actually very happy with it. Even if I didn't do it perfectly, you wouldn't know it. It still looks like the day I made it. Thanks for the comment.

The carbon core weighs 45 pounds per 5 gallon pail. I used 2 pails, so it weighs 90lbs. I've used the boat hard since then. Running at full speed though rough water. It's been flawless. Super solid. I really like it. As far as drainage, the transom doesn't go to the bottom of the boat. Water still flows under the floorboards and out the drain plug.

@@GoMidwestFishing thanks I boat a 100 dollar boat I want to learn how to. It is a 60s that was the same as my aunt had.

Thanks Ray. Its been working great. I could have done a few things better, but it still works fine as is.

I'm very happy with the one I got, but if anyone wants to send me a new boat, I won't say no.

1

Hi Howard. I appreciate the comment.

I agree. The reason I didn't is because it wouldn't fit under that corner piece. Good point though. The carbon core will never rot, so a little water leakage shouldn't hurt it. Thanks for the comment.

Going on 4 years now. Still looking good.

👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍

I would think Coosa should last longer than 5 years. Mine has lasted 4 years so far, and still looks like the day I put it in.

Your right. It is about an inch higher. I didn't even consider that as the reason. Thanks for the input.

@@GoMidwestFishing you left the wooden corners, that is a crucial structural area. The top corners tie into the transom as it spans the FULL WIDTH. Effectively forming a box at the back of the boat. There is no mechanical connection between the filler and the wooden corners. This could fail spectacularly and injure yourself or others.

Plus the composite is lighter than rotted wood.

What brand is that epoxy? I have to replace some stringers stuff on a airboat hull

@@kyledaymon532 The Epoxy is from carbon core. You can check them out here: www.carbon-core.com/products/carbonbond/transom-compound/

I'm happy to let you know the facts, concerning this repair. I look forward to the coming video. Perhaps a livestream, so that we can talk.

I'm sure it's good for now but the left wood will keep rotting and than it will fail! Not during season 1.

junk

Hi Jeff. Thank you for the nice comment.

Jeff, would be interested in a transom and floor job on a 24 foot four winns liberator with my assistance?

You got it right Gary. It s a workhorse, not a show boat.

Thanks for all the info. It might come in handy in the future.

Because both boat makers, and the repair bunch want to do it on the cheap. Several years ago I replaced the transom and stringers in a 19' bass boat I owned, and I started looking for appropriate plywood. I called several companies that repaired boat transoms, and they all said "Huh?" when I asked where they got their Douglas Marine grade plywood. All of them told me they just used treated exterior plywood, which is why it spits the resin/glass after a few years. I finally find 4X8 3/4" thick Douglas at a Hardwood specialty store. Sanded them, glassed them and sandwiched them together with lag bolts. Sanded that down to the right thickness then glassed it in. The rest of the boat may fall apart, but that transom looks like a dinner table.

@@Rem1061 Wood transoms are not “cheap”. This is a riveted aluminum skinned boat. Wood is strong and will last a lifetime if taken care of. This transom failed because someone allowed water to enter the transom probably by drilling into it with no proper sealer. There is no such thing as “Marine Grade” plywood. That is a marketing tool used to attract buyers. This plywood is only void free, thin layered and is constructed with ordinary exterior plywood glue. Wood is light, strong, flexible and a perfectly fine choice for rivet boats.

Marine plywood is a myth

@@Ibanezflyingfingers Pretty sure I never said wood transoms are "cheap" since I have built them myself. The transoms most companies PUT IN are made from cheap pine plywood which spits the resin within a few years. Douglas Fir is the best (or one of the best) marine grade plywood to use.

*too bad

Thanks for the info. I will look into that.

@@GoMidwestFishing Evercoat still makes it. Google FR 1190 Tiger Hair

@@L2fish Will do. Thanks!

Funny thing is he also think he gained 2 knots of speed because of that ass job he's done... He has no clue it's because he's lifted the engine up a notch 🤣

I love hearing comments like that. Much appreciated.