Same!

Thats the funniest sht I heard today! Thank you!

I have 3 call backs in 13 years. You might consider a new trade before you flood a home or kill someone 😅

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You are probably so far ahead from where the average plumbing employee is, it would make you wretch Working for a plumber doesn't mean you're trained to do plumbing work. Good luck to you! Good Job! I read stuff about girls and guys doing and enjoying great work, my days is always a bit lighter. Thank !!!

​@@nothankyou5524i do plumbing work myself... and.... i do not recommend ANYONE does it by themselves. They try and save money by being superman-cheapasses and theyll get what they paid for lol. Think you can watch some training videos and have it all figured out. Stupid is as stupid does haha. If i hadnt had 6 months experience in the field prior i wouldnt even be runnung the plumbing work i am now. Impossible and stupid!

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So happy you guys are still here, i've been quite lately but it's much needed. thank you so much and good luck on your repair :)

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I began using my miter saw some years ago because the scissor like pipe cutters would cause breaks in the pipe when they are really hard. Plus, it cuts like butter.

Cordless sawzall works great especially during repair/replacement of "already installed" pvc plumbing

Lol me too. I'm a pool man that does pvc repair for pools.

EXACTLY 💯

Doing it is the only way to build 'right way' The purple is so that the inspector can see that cleaner was used the clear is the same; I like to use abrasive to remove the slick & dirt … this is a very informed work @ 3:09 speaker states holding the make up for a few seconds which is very correct as I have had them push back out if primer and cement are applied properly He shows it @ 3:15 that is what it looks like … if one is doing a non-critical that can be repaired very easily this is often not always that important but yes it does push out so hold it momentarily · We did yard lines ( in the front yard ) for a plumber that was running 256 trucks at the height of the boom

Don't believe everything on the internet my friend. Read my tirade, above.

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Don't be inspired too much. At some point he's gonna want to retire, and the tech coming to see you will be wearing orange or blue. I push a lot of No Nots too a couple of suppliers and a couple of tube teachers. I've seen supervisors on jobs that can only use analog meters and digit manifold gauges. Great job, people Thank you!

Pleasure is all mine!

Thank you so much 🙏🙏🙏

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It’s not dying it’s just being taken over by folks of whom have not been through apprenticeship and journeyman steps. Do it yourself folks and handymen start to get comfortable doing things wrong and don’t even realize they’re doing it wrong. Every trade has a certain way and technique for each application or installation. When you don’t learn from the old timers you’re not really learning. There are hundreds if not thousands of clips on you tube that make me shutter to watch. Then again there are very good clips like this one. 43 year remodeler here. We are in a lot of trouble in the next 20 years or so. Some of the lads are still being brought up right. So there’s that.

Unfortunately, all trades are dying. Sometimes, it's the contractor, laborers. Rarely do I ever say Technician. "How to Do a Triple Evacuation" Do it three times How can you do a triple Evacuation faster? Leave everything connected to it again, later

Yep, I always use male plastic to copper or brass, especially since if I do anything wrong it's usually tightening too much.

😆😆😆 sorryyyyyyy!!!

Much appreciated 🙏

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So nice of you, thanks you so much for your nice comment Kent!

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@@Got2Learn the q

You only need to debur when your boss is around

@@jacobmcpherson8211 haha, I guess thats why they call me "boss". seriously, though, if you don't debur the outside you may squeeze out most of the glue and not have a good joint.. if you don't do the inside, it can restrict flow but not too much so I'm more concerned about the outside

@@jacobmcpherson8211 or when you don't want it to fuck up

Thanks a million ⚡⚡⚡

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Read my tirade, above. Don't believe everything you see on the internet.

Thank you, don't forget to share :)

So nice of you!!

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No.yoi wouldn't. You've been great Bte: how many went bade over the ys

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Nice of you, thank you for your kind words!

Great point!

I use the purple primer to mark the depth.

​@@JohnSmith-bq4vh And that is the correct way. 👍👍

if you are using the Primer correctly it is going to erase any marker or ink marks that you make. Just using the primer as a gauge as recommended from the guy below is a much better way to do it.

@@vanhattfield8292 I have never used a primer and therefore I'm guessing that not everyone does. However, I'm curious, presumably you either have to measure the length of the primer to get it right, or just guess it? Another way of doing it is to make the mark a certain distance from the joint. Say the length of a pencil. When the joint has been connected correctly the pencil will fit between the mark and the edge of the joint.

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Wow, thanks!!!!

Hihi aren't we all, cheers my man 🤘🤘🤘

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Thanks for sharing tips you learned after two applications of primer.

Already learned most of that the hard way. Good tips! 👍🏻

That is why they have clear primer.

@@Stan_in_Shelton_WA Clear is fine if you are assembling non-plumbing PVC/CPVC pipe. It's my understanding that many city codes require primer with the added purple color so the inspector can verify it was used on all the joints.

The purple primer is a mess. I place a wood or a thick plastic in the work area because as you mentioned, can stains everything.

A couple of things regarding the PVC cutters 1) NEVER cut cold pipe. Warm it up with a heat gun or hair dryer at the point of the intended cut. 2) NEVER try to reuse old pipe that has been burried - even though there are a lot of long lengths that could end up being cut down for shorter runs, over time the pipe becomes brittle. As soon as you try to cut to length, you start getting broken and jagged pieces. 3) NEVER use leftover pipe that has been stored outdoors. Sun Burned pipe is about the best thing you can use if you want to have leaks and dig up the yard to re-do everything. You should find this out when you attempt to cut it. Even though it might be warm from the sun, just watch it spinter and crack thanks to the sun-rot dryness.

Totally agree!!

Not code in my state bub. Give the xtra 4 bucks and prime those joints!

@@bradleyrussell1973 which state is that?

Exactly, woody. Just because it's code doesn't mean it's correct.

@@bradleyrussell1973 yeah if you are ready to fix all the leaks. Go for it.

We use only flowguard plus medium bodied yellow cpvc cement No problem anywhere

Good job art.

I use a variety of colored markers, plastic especially. I've always told the inspectors they came from overseas. Liguid Solder kills 2, plummgf

Always the ogs lmao

@Nathan LaRiviere i usually use the brand Rectorseal, so i also use rectumseal because Im still 5

@Nathan LaRiviere yeah ill never use the white stuff again. The mess is terrible and it just smears you gotta clean it off with alcohol or brake kleen.

Teflon tape, liquid Teflon, dope, permatex, wick and anti-seize all have their place. I am glad to have all of them at my disposal. Right tool for the job and all that!

I'm a 43 year old HVAC mechanic and the kids I work with better call it pipe dope or I'm sending them out to grab coffee.

That’s the superior way. Plastic male in metal female is the way to go. 7/10 when i go to leaks in water mains in my area it’s because someone used a plastic female on a metal male at the house copper transit from pvc.

you were taught by a real repair plumber it seems.

That is great advice

So nice of you!

Thank you soooo much!!!

Unfortunately, not everyone knows that clear primer exists, and it’s easier to assume it was not primed.

Yeah too bad , clear makes a neater job and the trained eye can spot clear primer

It depends where you are located. Had this issue where I work with it failing inspection with clear primer. Was challenged and is now acceptable to use.

Depends on the region. Cleveland is ok with clear primer.

@@emmber19 Ohio code does not require purple primer because of the streaking that can occur on the exterior of the pipe. Clear primer is acceptable.

If you like, you can mark the proper depth with a sharpie on the pipe so you know it goes in all the way while dry fittings, but you must take into consideration that on bigger pipes this gets harder to do , on 2" and less it's very doable :)

Yeah I can. Dont dry fit. Thats how joints can be forgotten to be glued. Thats not a good practice. Use a tape measure or if it doesn't line up cut it out and redo it for the couple bucks is worth spending then thousands on water damage. Practice and experience will come where you dont need to dry fit.

​​@@rickydowell4195 If you use colored primer, you can dry fit and not forget

Don't forget the super strength elbow grease and armpit sweat

I was installing a sediment filter on my pump to my sprinkler system. I inadvertently cut the outfeed pipe about a quarter of an inch too short and had to remove the 4 inches of pipe that was too short from the filter outfeed. It was a two-inch schedule 40 piece of pipe. I cut it with a small hacksaw on the inside and tried to break it along the cuts so I could twist it out without damaging the filter. I was struggling for about 45 minutes and it was not having it. My wife called her Dad and he came over and watched me trying to get the pipe out of the filter housing and he asked me to hand over the piece. He took the glue and smeared it on the inside of the pipe where it was bonded to the filter housing. He then took out his lighter and set it on fire. The inside of the pipe was crackling and the fire was pretty high. He waited for about a minute (it was a two-inch pipe) and then he used my channel locks to pull the pipe out of the filter housing with no damage at all. He was a Seabee and said he learned it from a trade plumber years ago and used it ever since to remove bits of pipe from fittings so they could be reused. I had to sand down the glue remnants inside the fitting but put in a new piece of pipe with lots of glue and it worked like a charm.

A hot air gun works wonders. You can also use a hot air gun to make slight bends in PVC pipe avoiding having to make a joint.

You are welcome!

Thanks for this info, I'm a DIY homeowner repair-er? Lol

So a 1" PIPE will go 1/2" in? And a 3/4" pipe only inserts 3/8" into a coupling or elbow? OR 1/2" PVC ONLY GOES IN 1/4"? UHHHH , HOUSTON WE HAVE A PROBLEM.... nothing a good book or hiring someone that knows what they're doing won't solve.... attn: be careful with advice from the comments section..

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Great tip. That's definitely something you learn through experience. lol

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thats how how water main was done

Never had an issue with tapered metal fittings, had plenty of male threads snap off jobs to fix, usual issue being, pipe unsupported during backfill and pipes placed under tension, pipe not given expansion room, and people using the male or female elbows to change direction but somehow crossthread it at least once before getting it right… another one, bit off topic is to use pipe rated for the environment, sea air or boats, pipe under ground or in concrete, and in working areas like a winery or a honey factory, try to work yourself out of a job.

Agree. If you have to use female PVC, spend the extra on an SR fitting, the steel ring helps give it more support under pressure and vibration, helps keep it from cracking.

Makes sense...thanks

Thanks Richard!!!

You are most welcome Sami!

So true! Even for temperature too!

You can do it!!!!

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If you turn clockwise (CW) on both ends, aren't they in opposing direction when joined? If I'm right and you apply one in a CW direction and the other in a CCW direction they will be the same when joined. Just wondering.

I've messed a few vinyl floors with purple in the passed. Never since tho! Floors aint cheap.

Heyy thanks! Yeah we use to use something similar (one step) and it works perfectly, haven't tried this stuff though, but i'll be making a complete guide on all the cements and primers soon, so there will be a lot of info in there, nice hearing from you again!!!

Awesome man thanks 😊 🙏 🙌

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I forgot to say thank you for the great content. I find these very entertaining.

@@pagepalmer6378 you are most welcome Page!

Okay on 8in and bigger it's almost impossible to turn it after its home but I've never had a leak quarter-turn after its home with 6-inch and smaller. That's in my 32 years of pressure pipe gluing. I clean the heck out of the pipe and fitting. And dirt is always cleaned off with water not cleaner or primer. After the pipe is dry Prime it glue it.

I use a belt to turn it.

Thank you Chad!!!

I give up

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Thank you so much!

the part showing clear pvc was so helpful becuz u could See how the glue was pushed inward and not really able to adhere most of the surface area at all.

@@skip741x3 exactly!

You can use a displacement cutter (rotary cutter) like this: www.zoro.com/ridgid-tubing-cutter-aluminum-brass-copper-32985/i/G2674375/

Sacrificial anodes on ships are made of an electropositive material like zinc, never (electronegative) copper. It is the most positive electrode that dissolves in an electrolytic cell. Copper is however sometimes used as an antifouling to prevent barnacles etc from adhering. It is copper fragments trapped in iron radiators that cause gassing and eventually leaks.

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Good job Robert!

Great video

@@erichirtzel6208 thanks a bunch Eric!!!!!