Andrew Leembruggen I appreciate that very much.

Denis LeBlanc If it still shoots you did it correctly for its designed function, aesthetics are for collectors. As a tool using man I have a lot of ugly, repaired tools that work better than the pretty ones !

Thank you!

Charlie Ford That's quite alright. Thanks for watching.

Jim Allen I located the parts and hope to do just that, soon. Thanks for watching!

i just did this to mine a year ago some one at work had given it to me thinking it was worthless it turns out to be a 42' early war chromed barrel monopod and aircraft sights! My stock was great though no repairs to wood needed just slight surface rust let it soak with repeated applications of Hoppes #9 and some 0000 ought brass wool it seems to have over 90% bluing left came-out beautiful. You could see it not had been cleaned since WWII as I found Unburnt long grain cordite left in the action!The Bore was nice and shinny and sharp rifling. cleaned the stock with acetone and used 50/50 BLO mixed with mineral spirits came out great saw some 7.7 Norma ammo the other day I might try it out this weekend?jim

Blacksmiths were oiling heated metal for centuries before God invented frogs.

Circular File It's a very, very, seldom done process that warrants nothing more than the inexpensive torch that does a very nice job for me. If I were doing this frequently, I would consider one, but they take up real estate, too.

grog3514 I am not a chemist, but I do know that the end result of many such compounds are very frequently nearly identical, whereby, broken down, they contain either the same ingredients, or ingredients that are virtually the same but with different names. Manufacturers are required to list chemicals by their classification, but may use broad generic terms. Names such as petrolium distilates are such generic terms. Any ingredient with the word poly means literally, many. CLP can indeed contain, or even be entirely Stoddard solvent and mineral oil, as Stoddard solvent has been made with a fairly loose variety of accepted formulations since its invention, and even mineral oil is engineered for different viscocities. In short, makers do not wish to reveal trade secrets, and they are not required to; only that they state classifications of substances, such as olefins, acids, and such. The data sheets are not, in other words, recipes, and can leave a fellow chemist just as curious as to the actual ingredients used by the company next door.

Ken McD That's about what I believe, an early transition rifle with lower grade segmented stock, but still with the strong action. Thanks for the confirmation, and for your input.

Mike McIlhenny I knew the tool's name, but my old brain came up with missing parts, as is often the case lately. Mineral spirits will clean wood finishes nicely and safely. My grandmother's old furniture formula was 50/50 turpentine and raw linseed oil. Don't use boiled linseed oil, which hardens, and is sold for an utterly fantastic profit in tiny little bottles and jars in gun stores as so-called stock finishes, which is simple old boiled linseed oil.

TheCheesyBanana This glue is easily peeled off varnished surfaces with a dull knife.

Have fun with your project. Yes, the rifle shoots great.

dowdawg You can only clean it thoroughly. I suggest using Hoppe's #9 or mineral spirits, following my video on how to clean a rifle professionally, until no more dirt or rust comes out. Don't be surprised if it takes lots of solvent, patches and scrubbing, with a close fitting brush, and lots of elbow grease. Be sure to use a high quality plastic coated steel rod, and never use an aluminum rod, which will damage the bore (those should be illegal!). Use an 8mm bore brush and jag, as it's considerably bigger than a 30 caliber. It's acceptable to cork the bore and fill it with solvent, allowing it to soak a few hours at a time, followed by cleaning. Whatever roughness remains after cleaning is pitting that you can do nothing about, and any efforts to smooth it will further degrade the remaining steel. After it's clean, give the bore a single patch lightly wetted with regular clear mineral oil to protect it. I do hope to shoot it soon.

Thank you for the advice!!!

D L I will put that suggestion on my list. Thank you. The Bushmaster is a fine, powerful round for such conditions. The 357 is a bit light for deer, the 44 Magnum well proven for short ranges under 65 or so yards, the 45-70 is ample for any hunting for those who are able to handle its hefty recoil (I recommend lighter bullets which are not so lusty for deer). The 444 Marlin is a gem, too, and perhaps better suited for deer than the 45-70. Any of the old black powder cowboy rounds of greater than 35 caliber are quite suitable for intermediate ranges. All cartridges are nothing more than a propellant load behind a bullet, so it's easy to open a ballistic chart and start comparing. Don't be lurred by cartridge names and popularity, which are of no concern. Just be guided by trajectories and effective working energy comparisons down range, within expected striking distances.

Thank you for the response and suggestions, keep up the good work!

It's not a dumb question. The torch is simply a propane torch with a self contained igniter, which is the lower tube. For what I was doing, only mild heat is required.

@@GunBlue490 awesome, and thanks for the quick response. I've been working on guns for years, and I still learn stuff from all your videos. Since I've become disabled after a car accident I've really been thinking about going into gunsmithing as a career because it's something I can still do with my disability. I think another reason I really love your videos is because you remind me of my dad. He was one of the smartest people I ever knew, a mechanical engineer/machine designer w/many patents. You both just tell it like it is, no BS. I just today found a local gunsmith looking for an apprentice, so with all my experience in wood & metalworking, mechanics, restoration, engineering, drafting/autoCAD, machining, and repairing & building firearms it'll be a job I would really enjoy. Watching your videos has been an extra wealth of knowledge, so thanks again for doing what you do, and please keep it up! God bless you and Benny! (I hope he's still around, if not I'm truly sorry!)

Brass rod and dead blow hammer, more than likely

I simply soaked it in acetone, outdoors of course. I followed that with boiled linseed oil, as per military rifles of that era.

ShoulderRollJason No. Longitudinal repairs along the grain are stronger than the original wood. Many laboratory tests have been done over the years that have proved that beyond question. As for the cross grain breaks, I assessed those in the video, and there is no risk involved.

It's the exact same bolt.

Cory Calogero yes

Carpenters glues generally cure after 24 hours in room temperatures.

If you desire it to be reblued, there is nothing you need to do, except give it to a competent gunsmith who is experienced in the practice of rebluing. He will remove all rust, polish and refinish the steel to a luster, then hot blue it. Any serious, deep pitting or scratches will remain, but will be beautifully blued. Cold home bluing techniques are very superficial, and are not worth the effort.

@@GunBlue490 Thanks. I haven't had time to hunt in a long time. So , a lot of my firearms are in disrepair due to my neglect. I want to pass these on to the kids one day. Slowly getting them into shape.

Chris Cox I will consider it if I come to that bridge. Thanks for your support!

Known as Urishi oil. Hirohito may get the last laugh after all.

No, those notches were actually on the rifle when it was taken from the Japanese soldier's body. It's what they are. Rules are broken by people all the time.

@@GunBlue490 I was just stating that an IJA soldier would be punished severely if he modified or defaced any equipment with the imperial chrysanthemum on it being it was marked as the emperors property. The Japanese were not known to deviate from these traditions whatsoever, so I always question when I see "field modified" Japanese equipment.

I think he was talking about the "Last Ditch" Arisaka's and he said they were not safe to use because they were not heat treated. But those unsafe Arisakas were trainer rifles. There was no rifling in the barrel.