I have a Nambu my dad brought back from WW.2 from the Philippines.

I just lost my dad, Thank you for your dads service.

Don’t holster it

@@getoutside9854 it can be holstered just fine, it was earlier versions that had the trigger thicker than the trigger guard leading to officers blowing their feet off. If it was on Saipan it’s the later version with the expanded trigger guard after the complaints from China.

Actually I take that back. My stock is not nearly as bad. No cracks or anything. The stock is just a really bad color. Should clean up nice using your method.

Do you know if a Arisaka Sporterized type 99 guts will fit onto the Arisaka blank stock which includes the bayonet attachment? My Dad brought home a Sporterized type 99 and I purchased the blank stock hoping to turn into a regular 99 with a bayonet my Dad brought back with him from Burma WW 2. I would really appreciate any responses.

In other word can the 2 Arisaka type 99 Sporterized rifle be interchanged with the full stock rifle with the bayonet attachment?

@@donaldsmckenzie8227 as long as the actual functioning parts of the gun like the receiver etc has been changed then the stock should fit right on (assuming your rifle is the standard length and you got a standard stock). You’re gonna need the fixtures though (pins and screws etc)

Alex Shakin Is that communism I hear?

@@White_Recluse Oh sure! Stalin, KGB, Gulag, we are behind you! Be careful, we are watching! You'll never hide from us!

It's acceptable to restore a gun to working order. It is not acceptable to alter or refinish it. I repaired a badly broken, de-milled, rusted, non-firing, filthy gun to original function as any Japanese armorer would have done, without in any way altering it, which is absolutely not destroying its value, history or heritage. I didn't change a thing.

I do like your videos and you do have exceptional knowledge. I may have over reacted.

Gray Jackson Unless you are going to get into hobby gunsmithing, the only tools you may require are specific to the guns you work on. Modern guns tend to employ more pins and spring loaded detents and fixtures than screws. The most important tool you can own is a quality, heavy, mechanics or machinists vise, bolted to a solid bench. The one I've used for over 40 years is a 4 inch Wilton mechanics vise with a 3 inch anvil, and I can't imagine working on guns without it. It's the best cleaning cradle made, whether you're working on a handgun or rifle, including an AR. Fit it with 3/8" plywood pads, like mine, rather than slippery plastic ones. Go to Wal-Mart's gun department and you will find a blue colored compact screwdriver set, blister packed with multiple 1/4 inch drive screwdriver bits. The driver's magnet leaves something to be desired, but the number of bits you get is worth the $7.95, and you can find a better driver handle in any store. Commonly used tools are a 4 ounce nylon faced mallet, and a 4 ounce ball peen hammer. A 1/16" and a 3/32" Craftsman punch will do the lion's share of work on guns, and you can fill in the blanks as need calls for. For dressing parts, I recommend a 1/2 inch wide Nicholson pillar file, number 0 with "safe sides"; that is, no teeth on the edges, and a file card, used frequently, to clean the file so it cuts smoothly. A fine red India stone, either triangular or square, cleaned often with mineral spirits and oiled with mineral oil, is handy to hone parts. A triangular white novaculite stone with sharp edges will polish the hardest trigger. I know that sets of punches, bits, files and the arrays of paraphernalia sold at gunsmith houses looks impressive, but the tools a gunsmith really gets by with all day long can fit in one hand, and the rest just sit on the back of the bench looking impressive, if you can find his bench at all. For cleaning, buy only a high quality plastic coated steel rod; either a Parker Hale or J. Dewey, and use the best bronze bristle brushes and brass jags. Bore guides are not absolutely essential, but highly recommended to keep solvents where they belong, and to properly protect the chamber throat. Watch my cleaning videos. Finally, be careful of what you watch around this medium. Clues to avoid are vids dripping with oil and solvents. As I demonstrated here, mineral spirits and mineral oil gets it done, simply, safely, and beautifully. Everything else is advertising hype. But I never blame anyone for loving the smell of Hoppe's #9, which is essentially kerosene with a small amount of ammonia and banana oil, which gives it that fragrance.

Thank you very much for the reply. I've watched the cleaning video several times and it was helpful to see some of your tools again. I appreciate your advice, and thanks again for doing these videos and sharing your knowledge!

By Match, are you referring to CMP, Camp Perry style? The recently revised rules allow for up to 4.5 power scopes; may be less, but not greater. Scopes have three roles to play. They flatten focal planes from three (front and rear sights, target) to one. That is their greatest attribute. Their secondary attribute is magnification, which can also be a curse when it limits lateral field of view. Their third attribute is reticle adjustability. Those who shoot at game within the rifle's trajectory need only a fixed setting with turret caps. Target shooters shooting over different distances need open target knobs that can be adjusted for distance and windage, as conditions change, just as one does with military battle sights. I have observed that scope companies have conveniently been offering scopes that fit the 4.5 power rule and have target knobs that are also conveniently expensive. I am personally a Leupold fan, simply because they have given me wonderful service for over 50 years. They make such a scope. However, their far less expensive 4 power variable with standard knobs will do exactly the same job at any CMP range, and I believe they can be factory fitted at some modest cost with target knobs. But if I had money burning a hole in my pocket, the target option would be terrific. Some folks like the illuminated dot that centers nicely on black bullseye targets. Fine crosshairs are a benefit. I do not recommend stadia lines on reticles. At each range, shooters are given ample sighting shots to zero windage under the conditions, and every shooter knows his elevation clicks at each distance with his ammo, so stadia lines are irrelevant and clutter the field uselessly.

Justin Mitchell On this matter, I speak as a Remington armorer who spent a week learning about care and maintenance of Remington firearms at the Illion, New York factory. We spent more time on wood stocked 870s than any other gun, because they were the most popular police shotgun, bar none. Do not OIL the 870, or any other gun for that matter. You should simply wipe parts and the gun's surfaces with a soft cotton flannel cloth treated with simple mineral oil. If you wish to use Remoil, which is essentially mineral oil and mineral spirits with a green label, that's fine, but only use it to apply a light film. Oiling a gun destroys a gun. Certain parts on certain gas operated guns benefit from the careful application of oil on surfaces exposed to hot gases, but watch my recent video on caring for the AR15 , and you will understand that process, which is greatly misunderstood.

I destroyed no screws whatsoever.

@@GunBlue490 Where they staked?

Kine Vision Yes, they certainly could work in an epoxy bedding, but nobody should ever in any way alter, modify, or refinish a collectible, whether it's a chair or a gun. To do so is to destroy any collectible value, and reduce it to an ordinary piece with very limited value. But inexpensive industrial roll pins do make fine pillars for that task.

Very true sir. That design could be a clue, the fact that they added in those sleeves. I know of no other war rifle of the time that did this. Does the torquing of action screws come to a metal to metal dead stop? I wonder if they where intended as pillars, a remedy for the tropical conditions swelling the wood.

Kine Vision They do.

You can coax oil out by using a vacuum sealing machine, as are used to seal frozen food. Repeat alternately with more acetone. After the stock appears clear, seal it with warmed raw linseed oil, rubbed in.

Someone may have glued it. Try direct heat on the screw with a soldering iron, but be careful that you don't scorch the wood. Grasp the base of a very tight fitting hollow ground screwdriver with Vise Grip pliers as leverage.

Douglas Jost Watch my Smith and Wesson video, which may help you concerning that. Cylinder movement (endshake) is not unusual. Only excessive endshake is If your cylinder is not hitting the barrel and you still have clearance, it's ok. Most gunsmiths have no understanding of Smiths. Send it to S&W if you want it worked on. Give them a call first though, as they are exceptionally helpful and will provide great service.

My best advice is to visit a gunsmith. Without it in hand, I couldn't possibly guide you, and any guesswork on my part might cause further damage. Most smiths will get it going quite easily, at minimal cost.

Sorry, but I don't know what the holy is, so I don't know why it's hard to close.

GunBlue490 mispelled. I meant to say “bolt”. I’m having a hard time when I push the bolt forward.

Thiaguinho Oitodois take the bolt out and examine the whole thing

《白关》Pakkwun I did. Clean it up and oil it. Still having that issue. I think it needs a better spring.

Arisakas are cock on close actions with a very stiff closing action. Just man handle it forward if you haven’t already.

Eli Foust wow, I guess that makes sense with all the surplus guns left over but can you imagine remodeling a house to find it was built with those in the walls?

Hermann2416 Marshall law made the rifle contraband.

Hermann2416 Relic for future generations.

i always thought it was kind of funny south korea has very strict gun control laws considering their very unfriendly neighbor

Hermann2416 During Marshall law period,troops were out of their bases patrolling the masses, a rifle around every tree,citizens quite safe. Probably a great number of hidden weaponry. Very safe country. No Marshall law,troops on their bases.......Only UN success.....

Most importantly, gun oil and stocks are the cause of much cracking, softening, and dry rot, and are to be kept from each other. That's one reason that guns should not be "oiled", just wiped with a lightly oiled soft flannel cloth. But, there are two answers about stock care. If your stock is coated with varnish or urethane, as most commercially made guns are and have been for decades, that's the final finish. You may use paste furniture wax to add luster and a bit of extra water resistance. Few commercially produced guns are actually oiled, though the ad may say, "Oil finished appearance" or some such. Military wood stocks such as Garands and M-14s were typically dunked and saturated in vats of raw linseed oil and have open grain. They can receive an occasional drop of linseed or tung oil to bring back a luster. First remove all metal hardware and just rub it in with the warmth of you hand until it dries. It will seriously gum up metal. Boiled linseed oils contain drying agents that provide more of a hardened, varnish-like surface coat without going deep into the wood, such as the little bottles sold in gun stores. But, never use lubricating oils on any stock, and don't allow such oils to contact the checkering and inletted areas that are open grained, as it will eventually saturate and destroy the wood .

@@GunBlue490 thank you for the advice and all the great videos!

@@GunBlue490 any particular wax you recommend? I mainly just want a little extra protection from moisture, and maybe a little shine too. My Beretta has a satin finish and it gets shot in all weather conditions

Same here. I don't get notifications on any of my gun channels anymore.

Sorry, but it has already fired several hundred rounds of factory ammo, with no sign of distress whatsoever. Glue is stronger than wood, and it's the same glue used for holding kitchen cabinets and furniture together for decades of daily use. Laminated stocks are glued, and so is marine plywood.

Yes, it's very intact, and quite a nice specimen.

I agree lol. I've seen guys that damn near put a whole gallon of oil on their gun