Wow. That's scary. I bet the vcr was arcing in it's power supply.

Yep, that is a bummer, I have seen this happen with bad neutrals and or connections and or lugs. As well as lightning strikes.

Thanks for watching

Thank you for sharing It's very informative...👍👌👌

Thank you for the explanation. I'm going through this exact situation right now. I spent 320 on all new breakers and such thinking it was my old house. Turns out the electric company's lead line from their transformer to my house underground is messed up. Fried the meter box outside. I hope I don't have to repair anything else in my house because their equipment failed. They have a portable transformer outside now but I only have a little electricity. Even though their transformer shows feeding 240....😔

You are mistaken! You will have a phase to phase short if you short out both phases 🧐. Just try it.

the guy in this video knows just enough to be dangerous

OK, L1 and L2 or as I would state Phase one and Phase two. You get hung up on items. Listen to the point of the video. Yes you are CORRECT. Single phase. Wow In commercial L1 and L2 and L3 or Blk, Red, Blue, (120/208volts or BOY - Brwn, Org, Yellow 277/480 volts.

No one said to short the two hots. They are referring to the reading between the two with a meter.

@@Petersonelectricllc Getting "hung up" on the difference between legs and phases is a good thing. It's the difference between knowing what you're talking about and being a charlatan. Lord help you if you ever have to service a building with three (true) phases.

You should probably have that hot tub circuit checked by a professional. They have some unique requirements and can kill if messed up.

Ya once you know L1 or L2 is dead you should turn of all of your 240V breakers to prevent the devices from leaking voltage to the dead line giving your devices on that side severe under-voltage and damaging your devices.

Was anyone working on the electrical and what were they doing?

No I think it is a neutral in the panel, see if you feel comfortable opening the panel on the sub panel or main,, and then use a meter and see what type of voltage drop you get on the circuits your concerned when you turn on dryer and then fan and vs versa.

I've seen outlets burn out when corroded, or with bad connections. They arc, causing metal to melt, making the connection worse and worse thru time. Arcing won't cause a standard breaker to pop.

What did your problem end up being?

@@willdallas53 it was a breaker issue, I have a 2nd circuit breaker box outside my garage that I forgot about.

Hopefully you found out that this is because of open splice or bad circuit breaker by now. Shorts go boom.

You may have a slit bus bar system to the panel and it has lost power on half. Or it is a lose or burnt connection underground or overhead on a splice bug.

Most of the guys i have showed it to seem to think maybe an electrical surge may have caused it as well. Half of the houses outlets and lightswitches have no power. But dish washer water heater washer and dryer still all have power on that one 50 amp breaker. Thank you so much for the feedback so far tho :)

What!! I have the same issue when I turn the electric stove on, the power starts working again. Have you found any solution?

I have 100 amp service. I had an electrician check it out. One of the legs going in the house burnt . I’m having to replace the box and all the breakers on the outside of the house and replace the line going in the house. I’m thinking ants got in the box and shorted everything out due to a large ant mound inside the box.

Try LED.

Call your power company and you both need to meet them and show them. You might have to have an electrician present.

Mike Harmon dude turn all burners on range stove or try washer dryer see what happens

Maybe there’s a loose connection on one of the first outlets in that circuit so as a result of that their is no power getting send to rest of the electrical appliances in the circuit

Panel issue or meter

Forget yo powa

I checked it b4 breaker box n only get 0 and 120 . it only does it when it's cold outside I think maybe the drop that comes from power line is froze or something at top of the house. Dte saying it's not there problem but they won't even come and check the line on the pole

I live in grosse pointe , mich. It's only been a issue starting last year of oct,2012. Heat is forced which is off cause it's on side of circuit breaker that's out. Square ft 1200. Own house since 2009 it was built in the 50s. No remodel done to house. It's only goes out when temperature drops in single digits when it warms up bout 20 or higher power pops back on. Also I'll like to say thank you for taking the time to answer my question

Might of been a Mole if it was underground that he chewed it. How did you guys find the exact location, did you retrench or just splice that spot?

Best most accurate quick response answer for almost any of these comments!

Yes, they are! They should be replaced with a Square-D or other modern, readily-available panel. And by a licensed electrician, of course.

call them Federal "burndown" Pacific or "Fire Provider"

I like the GE slim breakers. Twice the circuits in the same space!

Yes. I also advise you to not go near the wiring, even 120 V can kill.

I think that when someone gets shocked on the Neutral, it is due to the Black and Red Ungrounded HOT conductors sharing a Neutral path. If one is running and the other is off, the Neutral can still be carrying current in a kitchen, for example, your working on the west plugs and then the east plugs are together and the frig kicks on to cool. If you are in water or grounding near a cold or hot water pipe, this can be a difference of "equal- potential" that the code speaks about in grounding for spas under 680. This with someone with a weak heart can cause heart failure.

Peterson Electric Getting a shock from neutral is caused by bad or no earth ground connected to neutral in the main panel. The bonding jumper must be installed there and nowhere else.

Kline Gloves, they are the Brown and Black style, could be hard to find for you, alot of wholesaler stopped carrying them, I get them at Win Electric in Fort Collins, Co 80525

Lol

NEUTRAL OR UNGROUNDED CONDUCTOR WAS LOSE OR BURNT

Hey, I'm getting the same problem. Could you give more information on how the issue was solved? Would really appreciate it! Thanks

Explain yourself. All electricity is trying to get back to it's source i.e. lighting returning to earth.

The earth isn't the source, unless you are talking about ground or atmospheric static or lightning, the powerplant or transformer is the source and the earth is the path. I even worked on a barn, about 1/8 of a mile away from the house, that had one wire (Hot) to an outlet and a light, but the other wire (neutral, no ground) ran to a series of ground rods, letting the power return to the pole ground through the earth. 💙 T.E.N.

The suggestion he offered involving switching on appliances applied to troubleshooting a Phase issue, not a faulty Neutral. And yes, the older 240V appliances here in the US, that do not contain microprocessors or chipsets, run straight off 240 and would not be impacted by a Neutral abnormality. The modern appliances with processors use the 240V for the heating elements and 120V to power the processors. Having a "smart" stove and dryer is the new age of living! LOL

+acoustic4037 .. Electricity will seek the path of least resistance, be it a ground, neutral, or another hot leg. Whatever is the easiest way. The key is knowing how to figure out the problem. After that the fix is easy. (unless what you find is hidden in conduit or underground)

rupe53 technically, electricity takes All paths not just the least resistance. But that doesn't change the fact that it seeks it's source. Meaning it doesn't seek earth for the sake of it. It seeks the source, and if it can get to the source via earth to ground conductor to neutral bond in box to transformer then so be it. Its subtle but a relevant point. I believe that you know what you're doing, it was jus that phrase i want to clarify for viewers who don't understand.

++acoustic4037 .. Let's not confuse things with arbitrary terms. Saying it "seeks it's source" is like saying a leaky bucket will put water back in the bucket. What it seeks is the same as water pressure (high pressure goes to low) or with heating (hot seeks cold) or a balloon with a pin hole. (high air pressure also seeks low pressure) Point being the MAJORITY will go the path of least resistance, even though some will go elsewhere. A short circuit the power does not go it's normal route through the appliance. The term "short circuit" means it took a short cut via the path of lower resistance (neutral, earth ground, the other leg, are the only choices) which may pop a breaker or burn a wire. At that point the power stops flowing. Found this definition on the web: "When electricity goes to ground, it does not simply disappear. Instead, ground acts as an “electrical loop” that an electrical current uses to return to the ground of the power source." What they don't say is the power will flow up to the point of limitations within that circuit, meaning the wire burns up (quickly or slowly) or the breaker trips. Now I have seen cases where a power feed to a garage has a pin hole and each time it rains there's a slow leak to ground. It didn't trip the breaker right away and the garage still had power, but over time about 3 ft of the wire burned up and finally tripped the breaker. Yes, the power went in several directions, not just ground, but the wiring eventually failed when the majority took the path of least resistance and overloaded the breaker.

rupe53 in any normal circumstance, there is only one source of electricity, most commonly it is the secondary of a transformer, and anything leaving the transformer seeks only to return to it. This concept is not arbitrary and can be confirmed. I learned it from Mike Holt.

acoustic4037 "and anything leaving the transformer seeks only to return to it." The key is here in your own words except going back to the transformer means via the return path (not the feed path) meaning the neutral / earth, which is the center tap on the power company's transformer. (look it up) Remember, the power company doesn't use a neutral out at the pole on their side of things. It's all reference voltage from one leg (or phase in their case) to another. Once power goes through the transformer we now have a single phase that's split into 2 legs via a center tap (neutral) on the transformer, which always bonds to earth ground, AND there will be a ground rod at that pole as a redundant safety feature in addition to the ground rod(s) at the customer's house.

Starguy the better question is why wouldn't you? You can pick up a basic meter for around 20 bucks at Lowes.

$20 bucks is a rip off. HarborFreight has them as low as $4

How did you or your guy located the exact short underground? or did you just have the whole thing retrenched?

They used a piece of equipment, I don't know what it is called, but they stick in two probes, and it senses if there is electricity running through, I'm not sure if it works that way, but if I find out, I will tell you.

TDR meter. The only thing is, is that I am not too sure that this what the utility company used.

They most likely used a large under single lug connector underground with a rubber heat shrink material, assuming they did not retrench, or most it could have been as simple as a lose connection at the top of the transformer on the pole or an underground connection under a manhole cover.

Yeah, if it's overhead, it's easier because you can see where the problem is, unlike underground service.

OVEN, Range, Cooking appliance, yadee, yadee, yadee. LOL

@@Petersonelectricllc well thats something new lol as im from England . i normally say cooker

@@danielhorne6042 I like to call it the Turkey cooker, because at Thanks Giving Holiday or Christmas it is when I get the most calls for the Ovens, until COVID-19 and I have been doing tons of service calls with lights flickering because of parents cooking their kids lunch everyday and not the schools. LO>L>

Cheap ass companies here bro they do the least amount of work and always find a way to cut costs...