I ended up wiring around the pivot point and back tracking to the front markers before heading to the rear. Worked well and allows it to pivot.

I enjoyed your video and think your trailer is a real mack daddy version of the HF trailer. I tell you, I certainly can't complain about these trailers. They are inexpensive, simple to build and come in pretty handy. I'm currently refurbishing my 12 year old Harbor Freight trailer. It was tweaked by my Wife while backing when it was only a few months old. A year later a guy in a lifted 4x4 pick-up hit me at a red light tweaking it even more. And then a couple of years ago a guy in a Mercedes smashed into me and tore his whole grille off and made a significant dent in the rear cross member. He told the cops that I backed into him and the cop said it was my word against his. My Wife wanted me to sell it because the red paint was faded to pink, the plywood decking was rotted and the whole trailer had several rusty areas in addition to sitting all caddy womped. I took it all apart and soaked it in vinegar to remove the rust, including the bolts (you may laugh, but vinegar is one of the BEST rust removers ever!). I welded the front portion of the frame into one square and then I welded the back portion of the frame into another square (using Harbor freight's flux core welder). I swapped the badly dented rear cross member to the center where it wouldn't be as visible or be in a position to take the trailer out of level/square. I also used a sledge-o-matic to make the tongue sit level and square again. And to keep it straight, I used the piece of the angle iron for the casters to reinforce the tongue area under the front frame. I'm taking a different route with the decking this time than most people do. I added pieces of angle iron across the width 4" away from the back and front cross members. I did this so I can replace the plywood decking with 5/4 decking. The bolts would have been too close to the edge had I just bolted them to the frame. Also, I made a spare tire holder that mounts underneath the trailer in the front box part of the frame ahead of the axle so it won't drag in the rear. If you run a 24" piece of 1 1/2" flat stock and then put a 4" long 7/16 bolt down through it, it makes a really good spare tire holder. This too is welded, but I guess it could have been done without welding. The bolt heads on the top of the frame should not be any issue now that it's been welded, but I will run some treated strips across the top of the cross members to make everything level. I'd rather not notch any of the boards. I'm still working on getting the welds cleaned up, painting the pieces and moving onto the wiring. Man, your wiring looks really clean and professional running down both sides. I wish I would have seen this before I did what I did. For the wiring, I got a piece of metal conduit from a "junk peddler" and ran it through one side of the frame (not worrying about it folding anymore). My old wiring did have rub marks in a few places going through the holes and I figured this would prevent that. But, I'm telling you one thing, I'm deleting that tail light mounted license plate and adding a license plate mount/light to the center/rear of the trailer. I can't tell you how many times I've knocked my shins on the stupid license plate mounted on the side! You also have a good idea with the ground, but I might just run the wiring grounding everything to the frame first. Maybe I'll do a continuity check first? You made a good point about the added weight with the tongue box. This is one reason I might add some Harbor Freight metal ammo cans to the sides just in front of the fenders for storage instead of a tongue box. I'm adding some of the eyelet hooks like you did for tie downs and I drilled out the pivot bolt on the "hinge" and I'm using it as a tie down point. It should be pretty stout. Take care and thanks for posing your video. You have a lot of good ideas...

I have plans to get this trailer. Thanks for the videos!

My whole life I have seen trailers with flickering lights, lights out, dim lights, ...... and wonder why someone doesn't spend a little more money and a little more time and run the ground wire independently to each light based off the towing vehicle wired-ground and not the ball and coupler making ground. You did and I am copying what you did. I also especially like the rewiring of the tail light wires to the side and through the groumet. I'm doing that too. Thanks for posting all this as you are making it so much easier for those of us that are following on behind you.

Nice video. I installed the wiring last. To make the plywood deck lie flat, I just dog-eared the corners to take the bolt head issue out of play. So if you were to diagonally cut off the drill holes on your plywood pieces, you would have what I have. I also cut thin shims to fill in the 1/8" space on top of the frame crossbeams. Regarding the wiring, I too ran a ground wire to all the lights. The kit provides clips for attaching the wires to the frame, but they are worthless, and the barbs on the clips actually pierce the wire insulation. So I didn't use the clips. Instead, I used hot glue globs to mount the wires along the inside of the channel steel of the tongue. I found it works best to encase the wire in glue at each mounting point (stronger bond). If you think things through, and with a little trial and error, the minimum slack can be determined which allows the tongue hinge to swing without pinching the wires. Hot glue helps make sure the wire slack does the right thing. Also only a small amount of wire slack is required between the front and rear sections to allow the middle folding hinge to function correctly. Rule for that is: there should be no slack when the trailer is folded (at least routing the wires the way I did it). Because the plywood deck was installed, I used staples into it to do some routing of the wires (I got that idea from another KZfaq video). Like you, I also drilled holes to route the taillight wires through the frame. I also used rubber grommets everywhere wires went through holes in the frame, and used shrink tubing to protect wires that would be exposed to sunlight. Your wires are well-protected, but I'm sure you know that the tape is not going to last. Because the hot glue and wires are on mine are tucked away in the channels of the frame, I expect that sunlight damage should not be much of a factor. I store my trailer outside in the folded upright position with a tarp cover. I removed the wheel bearings, cleaned them, and repacked them with grease. I probably should do a video showing and explaining everything I did.

Those are pretty good trailers!

Another good reason to ground the lights with added leads split off from the vehicle plug ground lead: the LED lights draw very little current in comparison to incandescent bulbs, so there's practically zero chance the trailer lights will ever cause an overload of your vehicle wiring/fuses (unless there's a short somewhere in one of your lines). When I have the trailer hooked up to an older SUV with incandescent lights, the trailer lights actually light up/respond faster than the vehicle lights. The "ground" on the 4-lead vehicle plug is the white one ...

You could make waterproof quick disconnects where the trailer folds. Simply disconnect them before you fold the trailer and plug them back in when in use.

I just mounted my plywood decking inside the lengthwise rails to avoid dealing with the protruding bolt heads and 1/8" rail height difference. It sits flat and still really stiffens up the frame.

hi when riding are your chain cross ,on your trailer in your state ,in my i have to cross them

Could you elaborate about how you set up the wiring to be grounded from the vehicle instead of the trailer? I think I'm misunderstanding something.

Could you show how to wire the ground the way you did?

What size ball do you use

What gauge is the wiring Sir ??

when u start towing look like alot of work