There is no one in KZfaq who has explained bracketing with such lucidity. Thanks so much.
@rickbonilla90475 жыл бұрын
I am an AEB first-timer, I am aware of the basic functions. You can read about it a number of times until you think you get it, but actually don't. SEEing it, takes it another step. Thank you for helping it make some sense. It's appreciated.
@marcomark84 жыл бұрын
Thank you for teaching and giving us your experience and expertise. I'm sure this was learned the hard way by you. Now you have advanced all that watch this without all the struggles you went through to this level of Real Estate photography. You are also a very great teacher!! Thank you again, Mark
@PrasadPalaniyandi4 жыл бұрын
Best Tutorial on Bracketing technique so far I have ever come across. Very logical and methodical process instead of crudely taking 'n' number of pictures...
@penponds3 жыл бұрын
Simply the clearest tutorial on bracketing for later HDR processing out there! Bravo!
@PhotomatixHDR3 жыл бұрын
Wow, thanks!
@theroamantic4 жыл бұрын
Thank you for showing the full manual method. I have an older camera and I really appreciate you showing this.
@amygunville73785 жыл бұрын
Thank you for explaining everything so clearly! This is incredibly helpful. I really appreciate that you went over the process so thoroughly because all the short answers I have seen so far do not allow me to understand the functionality and all the possibilities I have at my disposal. Brilliant! Thank you again!
@davidrobinson79285 жыл бұрын
Sorry for the terribly late response, Amy. I'm delighted you found it useful.
@nayansoni212 жыл бұрын
Thanks for the detailed video Photomatix 👌🏻 I have a point to add for the users who change the shutter manually for each bracketed shots. They can set the camera to self timer mode ON for may be 2 seconds or so. That way camera vibration can be reduced.
@basicPROcreator11 ай бұрын
This video is exactly I'm searching for. Complete details. Thank you so much
@Drone360pilot3 жыл бұрын
Respect ✊ to author 🙏Absolutely amazing tutorials about bracketing
@Kyle-dl2re3 жыл бұрын
I feel like I should being paying tuition watching this video. Very educational and well explained!
@Ozanp5 жыл бұрын
Great video! I am seeing AEB for the first time btw, I am not sure if I should be ashamed or not..
@UGotTheFunk4 жыл бұрын
Geezus, I wish all tutorials were like this lol. Well done!
@PhotomatixHDR4 жыл бұрын
Thank you! That's a nice comment.
@emilymorgan63712 жыл бұрын
These are really helpful, will probably help me reduce the need for me to outsource. But anyway, outsourcing helps me spend more time with my family. edithere if someone needs it, not that I want to advertise but their service is really great.
@michellejung60865 жыл бұрын
Wow, such a thorough tutorial!! I just subscribed. Thank you so much!!
@AudaryaisticPhotography Жыл бұрын
Very detailed. I can’t believe that makes so much sense to do. Excellent info. Question is that are you shooting all the final photos at evaluative metering or spot metering?
@PhotomatixHDR Жыл бұрын
As the camera is set to manual mode (M) the set-up exposure metering mode has no influence on the exposure when pressing the shutter button. I myself (not the photographer who produced the video) use spot metering mode to measure the areas, then set up the exposure time, focus manually, and release the shutter button.
@musiolikart Жыл бұрын
Best explanation on YT ! Thanks, learned a lot !
@o0L4nc3r0o4 жыл бұрын
This was a very nice and detailed tutorial! :) Thank you! Helped me a lot.
@stephenobisanya Жыл бұрын
You’re a phenomenal instructor!!!!
@oldgrumpyjim50035 жыл бұрын
Good for those that don't want to use flash. Personally I prefer off camera flash and ambient and then do a quick blend in photoshop when required. Bracketing is fine in steady light conditions that don't change but strong changing sunlight from outside can bugger everything up and then you need to use the liveview function and the histogram for individual shots. Good video with attention to detail for those starting to think about this line of work as long as they realise there is more than one way to achieve this.
@davidrobinson79285 жыл бұрын
A very good point Jim. Yes, you can use flash and that can be a perfectly good solution. However, this video was about HDR of course, so naturally the attention focuses on that rather than the other ways to approach the problem.
@Ekaterinamail3 жыл бұрын
Thank you, very useful. Can I use all of the methods on my Nikon D750?
@PhotomatixHDR3 жыл бұрын
Hello Ekaterina. Yes, the Nikon D750 is a capable camera model so you should not have any problems taking bracketed images with the settings suggested in this video.
@ZeroTheCloud10 ай бұрын
Best tutorial out there
@tvsetup38595 жыл бұрын
Great explanation together with a very well put together video. Thank you very much for your attention to detail & knowledge sharing.
@romanchurch6768 Жыл бұрын
This is an extremely helpful video, thank You very much indeed!!
@JenniferGlass3 жыл бұрын
Thank you for such a great explanation with so much detail. Well done!
@johncatanzaro56973 жыл бұрын
This has got to be one of the beast tutorials on bracketing I have seen. I am new to this type of photography, and I have a Nikon D5100 camera. How you transitioned and displayed from one picture to another was perfect. Very educational. Can't thank you enough. One Thought, the ending was very abrupt. Would have been better if you would have ended with your name and, maybe, "Subscribe and stay tuned for additional videos". Again, thank you for all the time and hours of editing you put into this video. 👍
@MrSchneemaa2 жыл бұрын
Great Video!!!
@criticaltinker4 жыл бұрын
buy a camera with EVF and done. the EVF also have inset histogram. take 5 exposures manually 2stops apart.
@donnyl5435 жыл бұрын
I am a seasoned real estate and magazine photographer and followed your steps exactly but instead of using ISO 400 I used ISO 200 with f/11 AEB 2. My shadows setting was 1/15 and highlights 1/1600. I plugged it into app and was told to use 1/250 and read as follows: 1/15..+4 +4, 1/60 +2 +2, 1/250 0 0, 1/1000 -2 -2, 1/4000 -4 -4. I dialed in 1/250 and shot. What my Canon 5D III w L series 17-40 readings were 1/60 1/125 1/250 1/500 1/1000. All too dark to even consider into loading into Photomatix Pro 6. I was hoping to save time on my shoots with this procedure. I have been using AEB for years and my procedure has been to get my get my light reading and start my series of 7 shots form -2 up to +2. It has worked for me pretty well most of the time but welcomed a more precise way of shooting. I would appreciate an opinion as I would like to try this out on my next shoot.
@PhotomatixHDR5 жыл бұрын
If I understand correctly, you have the App set to 2EV spacing and your camera set to 1EV spacing. So you can get the series described by the App by setting the camera to capture at 2EV spacing.
@katkatCSI4 жыл бұрын
Great tutorial. Thank you mate!
@SkymaxVisuals4 жыл бұрын
Beautifully explained, thank you for the video! 😄
@branpod2 жыл бұрын
You should introduce automated flash-ambient blending. That would be impressive!
@enduraman15 жыл бұрын
The problem with this technique is outside lighting conditions change all the time. Clouds pass by and make this scene darker or clouds pass by make the scene lighter. The best technique is to take the bracketed shots and look at the histogram to see if those shots were exposed correctly.
@PhotomatixHDR5 жыл бұрын
You are right, one needs to be aware of changing conditions that affect lighting, and clouds passing by is a common one. In any case, it's definitely a good idea to check the bracketed shots using the histogram to make sure the dynamic range is covered, and it's recommended with any exposure bracketing technique.
@rajshekharkhandeparkar3522 жыл бұрын
Good marketing by photomatix
@markducharme91994 жыл бұрын
This was very well explained on how to bracket what do you do with the 3 or 5 images? Blend them in Photoshop??
@PhotomatixHDR4 жыл бұрын
We make software for merging the images to HDR, please visit our website at HDRsoft.com for more information.
@Fahrenheit_Motorsports3 жыл бұрын
This was brilliantly explained!
@TippyQuick4 жыл бұрын
Great video! Thank you for the explanation
@PhotomatixHDR4 жыл бұрын
Many thanks for the compliment.
@colinbradford26713 жыл бұрын
Excellent tutorial, thank you.
@bingo12325 жыл бұрын
Very nicely done and clearly explained. THANKS!!!
@davidrobinson79285 жыл бұрын
Im glad you found it useful.
@Mrsunshine12344 жыл бұрын
Great, easy to follow directions.
@lewis11803 жыл бұрын
What’s the difference between HDR in camera, iPhone HDR, and this method of using the calculator?
@PhotomatixHDR3 жыл бұрын
With HDR in camera, iPhone HDR or Google camera HDR+, the exposure bracketing and merge to HDR are all done directly in camera. The advantage is that it's super simple and quick, the drawback is that don't have any control on the exposure range and HDR settings. So, if you are a pro and want to take an interior where the room is dark and the window's view bright, exposure bracketing with the right exposure settings will help you make sure to capture all the range of exposures required to get a properly lit interior photo.
@bogeybob33 жыл бұрын
Great instruction, Thank you. Do you shoot in raw for bracketed photos ? ( primarily MLS photography )
@Mainekt35 жыл бұрын
You did a great job!
@davidrobinson79285 жыл бұрын
Many thanks, Peter
@purvagharat95798 ай бұрын
How do I select specific areas while spot metering (darkest/lightest) on Canon 80d ?
@PhotomatixHDR8 ай бұрын
Hello Purva, It is not possible on a Canon 80D to move the spot from the center to other areas not in the center. What I do with my Canon is to aim the camera to these areas, measure the spot, and then reframe the image. You can watch a video where I illustrate this here: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/j96SnK-blcm2fo0.html
@Blumarbleproductions5 жыл бұрын
Thank you. Very well made tutorial!
@gerarddonovan86783 жыл бұрын
Perfect presentation
@denden7605 жыл бұрын
EXCELLENT TUTORIAL!
@nicoaguilar135 жыл бұрын
Thank you for this!
@siddoza164 жыл бұрын
The voice... great tutoring... thanks
@PhotomatixHDR4 жыл бұрын
You're welcome!
@brianmcquain33844 жыл бұрын
Very helpful thank you for sharing!
@thaticelandicguy5 жыл бұрын
great video so clear! love it! :)
@brandonbielinski56113 жыл бұрын
This was great, thank you!
@KayleeDecollibus5 жыл бұрын
Would love to know where I can find that tripod!
@PhotomatixHDR5 жыл бұрын
Sorry for the slow reply. The tripod is a Manfrotto 190 bit.ly/2Kuvpu1
@matronix19776 жыл бұрын
Hi , I don’t understand why i should use the hdrsoft app if i use the aeb of my camera ? It will automatically do it. I can’t really tweek the feature, maybe with the calculator check the difference ? Thanks for the explanation.
@PhotomatixHDR6 жыл бұрын
The HDR Exposure Calculator helps ensure you take all exposures needed when you use the AEB feature or your camera. This is useful for interiors with bright windows because the dynamic range is huge, but otherwise (e.g. in typical outdoor scenes) there is no need to use the HDR Exposure Calculator. In any case the HDR Exposure Calculator is just a complement/helper for the AEB feature of your camera, and certainly not a replacement of it.
@mirastudio42042 жыл бұрын
How many photos are optimum for an HDR photo merge?
@PhotomatixHDR2 жыл бұрын
Hi Mira Studio, Usually, an interior requires a minimum of 5 photographs spaced at 2 EV to cover the dynamic range. However, sometimes it requires seven or even nine exposures. It depends on the lighting outside, i.e. direct sunlight, cloudy day, and how much of that light is entering the room.
@zsp93864 жыл бұрын
Thank you, very clear!
@MrProlecat4 жыл бұрын
Great tutorial.
@sweetlemon30516 жыл бұрын
Nice video. Thank you
@gerobokdapur81654 жыл бұрын
Loud and clear... 👍👍
@PhotomatixHDR4 жыл бұрын
Thank you.
@felixmooneeram59196 жыл бұрын
Great video - nice and clear and with a good pace My only q is about the spot metering. When you say "point the camera at the darkest part in the room" - do you just mean to simply move the focus point over that area?
@PhotomatixHDR6 жыл бұрын
Hello Felix, thank you for the feedback :) You don't need to move the focus point. Just point the camera at the darkest area once it is in spot metering mode. When you switch to spot metering mode, you may see a round circle in the viewfinder, but this is is independent from the focus point. Most cameras do not allow to move the circle from the middle of the viewfinder to some other position. This is why aiming the camera at the area you want to measure is the way to go usually. Assuming you are using a tripod (highly recommended for real estate interiors), note that you will have to put the camera off the tripod to point the camera in spot metering mode.
@felixmooneeram59196 жыл бұрын
Photomatix okay thanks for clarifying ;)
@denosoaresfotografiafotovi52033 жыл бұрын
Como usar bracketing no flash?
@RonPepperPhoto3 жыл бұрын
Este video demuestra bracketing sin flash, asi que creo que puede hacer lo mismo. O he entendido mal? ;)
@tannermcfarlin67483 жыл бұрын
Does anyone know of a good tutorial to blend the 5 bracketed photos after you shoot them?
@PhotomatixHDR3 жыл бұрын
Yes, see www.hdrsoft.com/real-estate/merging-bracketed-exposures-to-hdr.html
@alexvandenwildenberg86785 жыл бұрын
Hi, great explanation
@mahmoudzaefi29585 жыл бұрын
Thank you.
@steveloudon74915 жыл бұрын
I like the video. But where do I find the exposure calculator? I see a link in one of your answers but can it be found in the Google play store?
@PhotomatixHDR5 жыл бұрын
You can find it here: hdrsoft.com/ev The HDR Exposures Calculator is available as an iOS app too, but the web app at hdrsoft.com/ev works in any browser (so on any smartphone) and is free.
@MrPippec3 жыл бұрын
Зачем использовать spot metering в ручном режиме?
@PhotomatixHDR3 жыл бұрын
For others reading this, MrPippec's question is (automatically translated): Q: Why use spot metering manually? A: In Aperture Priority mode (Av) spot metering suggests a shutter speed value (a number) while the marker stays in the middle of the scale regardless of how bright or dark the spot is at which you aim the camera. Whereas in Manual mode the marker is moving left or right depending on the measured brightness. The photographer then turns the shutter speed dial until the marker meets the zero marker or little above zero (if he likes to shift the bracketed set to the bright side). Then he reads the value. For most photographers the latter feels more like measuring than the former, that's why David chose to use Manual mode while metering the scene. I hope I could clarify.
@NestoRides5144 жыл бұрын
When finding both the longest and shortest shutter speeds, I could also use a light meter, couldn’t I?
@PhotomatixHDR4 жыл бұрын
The tutorial shows the use of the light meter in the camera, but you can certainly use a hand-held meter if you prefer.
@TheMisterEGUY2 жыл бұрын
Hi, I was wondering if you could help me understand how to do this so I've taken 5 shot bracket 2 full stop and my client wants me to adjust the EV to -2 instead of 0 for the middle exposure. My client wants me to do this but I have no way of doing this in manual mode as far as I know. This is for 360 panoramas so I have to do this for all 4 shots around, in rooms with of course different lighting situations. I really appreciate your input. Thanks
@PhotomatixHDR2 жыл бұрын
I believe there is a way to do that, you can adjust the shutter speed so that the main/center marker in the exposure meter is on -2 EV instead of 0. So instead of -4, -2, 0, 2, 4, you will get -6, -4, -2, 0, 2 (where -2 is your middle exposure)
@f520234 жыл бұрын
If I point camera to darkest point in the room, whole histagram reqding will change Should I zoom to that point also??
@PhotomatixHDR4 жыл бұрын
When pointing at the darkest area (with spot-metering), that is so you can note the longest shutter speed needed. The histogram isn't so important for that step.
@f520234 жыл бұрын
Thank You for answering. When You work with files in this example, do You work with jpg or raw?
@subash675 жыл бұрын
after getting all the exposures, where do you focus for the final shot when doing the AEB? Do you focus on the highlight, midtones or the shadows? From the video it appears he is using manual focus? I am newbie. thanks.
@PhotomatixHDR5 жыл бұрын
If you are using a wide angle lens, and f/8 or f/11, then most of the scene will be in focus by setting the focus around 1/3 of the way into the scene. This is only a general rule, but usually works. Another good option is to focus on something that is within a couple of feet of the camera, then everything farther away should be in focus. Just a little practice should make this easy.
@zsozsousa15 жыл бұрын
Thank you, very helpfull
@robbeld4 жыл бұрын
Why do you use ISO 400 on a tripod? Using high ISOs reduces your dynamic range, which makes no sense when shooting HDR. Usually it makes sense to set ISO to 100 or the lowest base ISO to make best use of your camera's dynamic range and obviously shoot RAWs instead of JPG. Also when doing manual exposures, which shouldn't be necessary nowadays, one should switch to manual focus and white balance.
@PhotomatixHDR4 жыл бұрын
A higher ISO gives you a higher exposure, the same way a longer shutter speed does. This doesn't reduce the dynamic range, but extends it to cover the dark areas of the scene. When the dynamic range of your interior isn't very high, ISO 100 is best, since this ensures the lowest noise level. However, when your interior is quite dark and there is a bright sunlight coming from the window, the dynamic range may be so high that you'll need very long shutter speeds to cover the darkest areas at ISO 100, so long that they exceed the capabilities of your camera. And even if they don't exceed it, very long exposures can bring other problems, such as blur. This is why we recommend an ISO higher than 100 for interiors, though it's better not to go higher than 400.
@robbeld4 жыл бұрын
@@PhotomatixHDR Unfortunately you're wrong. Any camera's dynamic range is reduced when increasing ISO. See the link at the bottom of this reply for lab tests confirming this. Only if you need more than 30 seconds of exposure, which is extremely unlikely at daytime, you may benefit from higher ISO settings, but even then a manual/bulb mode exposure is preferable at ISO 100. The argument of getting blur is the only correct one, but only if there are moving parts that are well exposed in the slow shutter speeds. If there are no such moving objects it is hence always better to stick to ISO 100, also for noise reasons. Here you can see how the dynamic range suffers from higher ISO on some very good cameras, and it is worse for cheaper cameras: click on Measurements... Dynamic range: www.dxomark.com/Cameras/Compare/Side-by-side/Canon-EOS-5D-Mark-IV-versus-Nikon-D850-versus-Sony-A7R-IV___1106_1177_1326
@PhotomatixHDR4 жыл бұрын
@@robbeld We aren't talking about the same thing here. I was referring to the scene's dynamic range, not the camera's dynamic range. The video is about bracketing exposures to photograph a high contrast interior scene. If you don't want to bracket and take just one exposure, then yes, you should keep the ISO to 100 or lower. However, you are unlikely to get a good quality photograph when shooting a high contrast scene with just one exposure. Regarding higher ISOs, the video actually recommends ISO 400 which isn't really high (and in any case, much lower than ISOs in the 2000-4000 range tested in the article you linked to.)
@fredfarmer99334 жыл бұрын
Forgive a dumb question from a beginner, but at what point do the photos get combined? Does the camera do it automatically?
@PhotomatixHDR4 жыл бұрын
@fred farmer Actually, that's a good question because the video doesn't answer it. The images get combined in our Photomatix application (Essentials or Pro version). In Photomatix you can apply a natural-looking HDR style and thus transfer the dynamic range of the five photos to the final image. Here you can watch a video that shows the process, but with different images: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/as5-rdipl8fbk30.html
@fredfarmer99334 жыл бұрын
@@PhotomatixHDR Thanks!
@chinhvannguyen16855 жыл бұрын
Hi I can use one speedlights with bracketing flash, apecture mode? Photomatix manual dont requires flash. I should use raw or jpec for interior photograph? Very tks
@PhotomatixHDR5 жыл бұрын
The video shows how to bracket exposures to photograph interiors, and exposure bracketing avoids having to use flash and speedlights. It also has the advantage of giving images that look more natural than when flash or lights are used. If you use speedlights, then there is no need to bracket exposures, normally. Photomatix is used to process bracketed exposures, merging them to HDR, so it indeed doesn't require to use flash. Raws have the advantage of letting you adjust the white balance if you need it (to adjust for mixed lighting situation between the interior and exterior for instance). Jpegs have the advantage of working better with natural looking fusion presets that work well for interiors. So they both have advantages and disadvantages. More info on this at: www.hdrsoft.com/support/faq_photomatix.html#process_raw
@petenicezz5 жыл бұрын
Hello David, how do you get it the outside exposure correctly? I took an HDR photos and merge them on lightroom but it doesn't grab the outside well exposure of the photos. So what I get is a photo with the outside overexpose.
@PhotomatixHDR5 жыл бұрын
If the HDR photos you took include a photo that properly exposes the outside, then try the Photomatix presets designed for real estate interiors. See more in this tutorial: www.hdrsoft.com/real-estate/merging-bracketed-exposures-to-hdr.html
@ismathose4 жыл бұрын
can u help me locate the Bracketing in Nikon D3400
@PhotomatixHDR4 жыл бұрын
Unfortunately, there is no automatic exposure bracketing on the Nikon D3400. You could perform manual bracketing by using Exposure Compensation (set to -2 EV, 0 EV, and +2 EV consecutively), or try to manually shoot your bracketing set by using the method described in our article here (even though it shows a Canon camera it works for a Nikon likewise) hdr-photography.com/hdrsoft/resources/brackets-without-aeb.html Good luck with it!
@cofeeaddict70394 жыл бұрын
Thank you!!!
@adamkreuz90685 жыл бұрын
Is there a difference between changing the exposure compensation and the shutter speed or is that the same thing?
@PhotomatixHDR5 жыл бұрын
It depends on your camera setup: - If you set the camera to Aperture Priority, then changing the exposure compensation has the same effect as changing the shutter speed (though it isn't the same thing) - If you set the camera to Shutter Priority, however, changing the exposure compensation changes the aperture rather than the shutter speed - If you switch to Manual mode, then changing the exposure compensation has no effect Exposure compensation is a way to control the exposure in one of the automatic modes, i.e. making the image brighter or darker than what the camera suggests. It tells the camera electronics to set an exposure offset from the exposure that the metering system has determined.
@adamkreuz90685 жыл бұрын
@@PhotomatixHDR Excellent, thanks for the break down!
@moodcatching3 жыл бұрын
Hey there, I'm a little under pressure right now, as I shall be shooting some reference interior photos for my boss tomorrow (we consult companies for light solutions). I just found out that my Canon EOS 1100d only has the ability to have 3 brackets with -+2 stop of EV. Is there any way I could recreate this effect with this camera? Regards :)
@PhotomatixHDR3 жыл бұрын
Hey @moodcatching, good question. Depending on the purpose, the time of day, and your location you'll need 5 or most likely more photos in one bracketed set usually. Your only choice considering the restriction of the EOS 1100D is to take two or three bracketed sets with 3 photos at 2 EV spacing from a tripod. It is quite a challenge not to move the camera when operating the camera but it could work. Since this requires to change the shutter speed between the bracketed sets carefully turn the dial, and use the built-in self-timer and/or a remote shutter release to trigger the bursts of photos. Make sure to expose around the normal exposure but bias a little (1-2 EV) to the overexposed side since you might want to show the interior well exposed rather than the exterior. To make your life easier measure the dynamic range of each interior scene once and expose accordingly. What I mean by that is to rather take three bracketed sets than two unless the exterior is not so important to cover. We call it to overshoot in terms of exposure range. This way you can choose five or seven from nine exposures in the range when processing with Photomatix. However, if in a hurry and you have a lot of rooms stay with 2 x 3 exposures. To calculate the exact exposure settings you could use the HDR exposure calculator www.hdrsoft.com/support/hdr-exposures-calculator.html One more tip unless it is part of the light solution you are offering: don't turn on any tungsten or fluorescent lights inside the rooms. You will have a hard time with blue spill from outside and finding the correct white balance. Good luck with your shooting tomorrow.
@PhotomatixHDR3 жыл бұрын
It also depends on how high the contrast of your interior is. If the room isn't too dark relative to the windows, 3 brackets at +2 EV can work just fine. This video shows the advanced bracketing technique aimed at challenging cases. The simple technique is described here www.hdrsoft.com/real-estate/photographing-interiors-with-hdr-simple-technique.html
@PP-nl8ue5 жыл бұрын
This is great advice if you plan on being in a house for 6 hours.
@five18audio4 жыл бұрын
Thanks bro
@gutenmuach4 жыл бұрын
So how do you combine them all?
@PhotomatixHDR4 жыл бұрын
You can load the photos into Photomatix Pro or Photmatix Essentials RE, merge them and apply any realistic preset (or customize a chosen setting to your liking). Then process the combined photograph and save it as a JPEG or TIFF file. The video that shows how to do it in Photomatix Pro is here: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/i5mifqSSm7eugYE.html or in Photomatix Essentials RE (Real Estate): kzfaq.info/get/bejne/nq5mn5Sm2NHbZJ8.html
@crazyratwhisperer90263 жыл бұрын
🙏🙏🙏
@DippySippy4 жыл бұрын
Too complicated... is there a simplier method.
@PhotomatixHDR4 жыл бұрын
Yes, the simpler method is here: www.hdrsoft.com/real-estate/photographing-interiors-with-hdr-simple-technique.html
@LalondeFilms3 жыл бұрын
Does anyone do this with Auto ISO?
@PhotomatixHDR3 жыл бұрын
Photomatix is intended for bracketing the shutter speed, but it is possible to change the ISO instead. I recommend to experiment, but I think that chanding 9EV in ISO would introduce too much noise. Maybe ok for lower dynamic range scenes than interior real estate.
@LalondeFilms2 жыл бұрын
@@PhotomatixHDR What is your average ISO for interiors?
@ds7mediaproductions5 жыл бұрын
Yes great video BUT.... how do you combine all the exposures to have the final photo? Till now I have been using Photoshop to create layers of a window (outdoor shots) which I then insert to an interior shot..... Yet it is very time-consuming. Any ideas?
@PhotomatixHDR5 жыл бұрын
Good that you asked, as Photomatix is precisely for that. See how it works in this video: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/i5mifqSSm7eugYE.html
@CraigKeene3 жыл бұрын
Take the time to learn how to shoot using external lighting. You’ll thank yourself later.
@chinhvannguyen16854 жыл бұрын
Hi, do you use mf or af focus, tks
@PhotomatixHDR4 жыл бұрын
This decision is up to you, but be sure that the focus doesn't change during the capture of bracketed images. Normally the focus shouldn't change in AF, but that might depend on the camera.
@rominosinfield5 жыл бұрын
started watching this until i realise my camera makes this automatically ^^
@PhotomatixHDR5 жыл бұрын
It sounds like you are referring to AEB (Automatic Exposure Bracketing), which indeed almost all cameras offer. The video is about something else, which is to ensure the bracketed exposures the camera takes are sufficient to cover the scene's dynamic range so that you get a perfectly lit HDR image. You normally don't have to worry about when you shoot outdoor scenes. However, when you shoot an interior that is quite dark and there is bright sunlight coming through the windows, you'll often find that you are missing some exposures if you don't set the appropriate AEB settings before letting the camera take the exposures automatically.
@saMediaProductions4 жыл бұрын
which camera ?
@FinancialDomination5 жыл бұрын
Too much work. How is it 2018 & there is not an easier way?
@PhotomatixHDR5 жыл бұрын
It's good that you asked, as this video shows advanced exposure bracketing techniques. A simpler technique is shown in the video here kzfaq.info/get/bejne/nK6qoL2C192xmIU.html I wasn't able to understand your question regarding 2018, it would be great if you could detail it.
@FinancialDomination5 жыл бұрын
Photomatix Very helpful. I appreciate it. Thanks.
@nooch865 жыл бұрын
It's called flash/ambient blend. Probably not easier, but better.
@petenicezz5 жыл бұрын
whats the name of the app?
@PhotomatixHDR5 жыл бұрын
Are you referring to the app for merging the bracketed photos? If so, it's called Photomatix Pro: www.hdrsoft.com/download.html If you are referring to the app to find the exposures to take from shutter speed measures, it's called the HDR Exposure Calculator: www.hdrsoft.com/EV
@lewis11803 жыл бұрын
This, to a beginner, seems extremely complicated.
@PhotomatixHDR3 жыл бұрын
Yes, this tutorial is aimed at advanced professional photographers. The simpler version of the HDR bracketing exposure technique is here: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/nK6qoL2C192xmIU.html
@lewis11803 жыл бұрын
@@PhotomatixHDR Thanks so much for the link. I took notes on this video regardless. I learned a lot.
@Ramonclementephoto5 жыл бұрын
Nine images for a bracketing is way too much in my experience -> www.ramonclemente.com I find that for many HDR techniques and modern software fewer images but with a wider EV separation works better. For many interiors a 2x+4EV, 2x+3EV or 3x+3EV is enough to cover from HL to SH. If using continuous light only I'd also suggest using a higher ISO. I find thermal noise more annoying.
@PhotomatixHDR5 жыл бұрын
Thank you for sharing your experience, that's very interesting info. You are absolutely right on the ISO. It's better that it isn't too low for HDR interior scenes, an ISO of 400 being a good compromise (so, the video's advice on that isn't good, but it was too late when we realised it). This is because long exposures will be necessary to cover the dark parts of the interior, which would cause blur and other issues when the ISO is 100 or less, while the interior is quite dark. In our tests, a 3 EV spacing negatively affected the quality of the merged image a bit, which is why we recommend not going higher than 2 EV, but it may also depend on the camera.
@katrinaprice72675 жыл бұрын
Too complicated.
@PaulFanMing5 жыл бұрын
www.paulfan.com/job.html for high standard interior photos
@todayshike28995 жыл бұрын
oh good grief - it is not this complicated!...just go Manual mode. Look at LCD on back of camera in Live View and dial the aperture so the brightest areas are properly exposed. Then same for dark areas. Expect 8 clicks if light is kinda even in a room and 15 clicks if you have bright areas like windows. Shoot more exposures than you need on both ends. And this guy did not even level the camera. His verticals are not aligned. Beginner stuff. Clearly, he is not a seasoned pro. For architectural work... use Manfrotto 410 3-Way, Geared Pan-and-Tilt Head
@JC-rt6jx5 жыл бұрын
dude don't be a douche...he's just trying to help the way he knows how...ease up
@klishakoja5 жыл бұрын
wow... narcissistic much?
@tombrady12NE5 жыл бұрын
I was about to say the exact same.. it’s not that difficult to do
@oxxxeee5 жыл бұрын
@@JC-rt6jx if he is promoting Photomatic software, he should know his stuff. btw - he plugged his shutter release in the wrong port.
@JC-rt6jx5 жыл бұрын
@@oxxxeee thank you so much for your comment (6 months later). I don't know what I would've have done without it. Feel free to leave a link to your video tutorials so we can see how it's really done. I'm sure your 5 videos and 4 subscribers entitle you to such criticism.
@charlesludwig91735 жыл бұрын
No professional photographer shooting real estate for MLS is going to bracket for HDR. First, it takes too much time, effectively making a $50 per hour shooter, a $13 an hour shooter. Second, bracketing is not at all necessary, just shoot wide angle, hand-held, on-camera flash set at TTL +1.3, and bounce off ceiling, with camera set at 1/80th second, f6.3 and 320 ISO. That's it, pretty much everything that needs to be done for a technically great image including windows and their walls. What's important and not mentioned is what perspective best shows the interior, as well as the effect the presence or absence of interior design has on the shot. Let me shoot a home decorated by an interior designer and my images are sure to please. sterlingimagesphotography.com
@HomeandYacht5 жыл бұрын
Can we see some examples of images you've taken with those settings?
@chinhvannguyen16855 жыл бұрын
hi , you only use one TTL flash on camera for RE photos?
@daniel.maitheny5 жыл бұрын
I checked the website - sterling images. those photos are so bad - oversaturated, way too noisy, all of them is underexposed at least half a stop (even the daylight ones), and the HDR technique just amateurish and horrible. the composition, on the other hand, is quite alright, so makes me more sad the way these pictures are developed and edited.
@ds7mediaproductions5 жыл бұрын
Photographers like Charles have devastated the market charging $50 an hour and producing poor photos that cheap real estate people do not understand or know the difference between good photos and bad.