Hey Tony, happy to hear you did the mod. Spread the word so we can have more XF's opening their trunks the way they were intended to open 🤙😁

😂 LoL

Glad to hear. The more proud your screw stands from the hole you made, the stronger the lifting of the trunk will be. It will also depend on how old your struts are.

It's absolutely worth a try and it will work guaranteed since you've just replaced your struts. I inserted a link in the description above to the screws as well.

Well done Paul. Perhaps replace your struts. That might make a huge difference. 😉

You won't be disappointed Doug. It's still working great and I'm happy I did this mod. 😉🤙

Thanks Debs. I would also recommend replacing the struts if you haven't done so, this will guarantee your trunk to open first time every time all the way ;-)

Hey, Kuala Lumpur? Welcome to the channel and thanks for watching 👍

Hey Dan. Unfortunately I can't help with that. Why don't you just turn the lights on park when you drive? Then the tail lights will light up as well as the DRLs 😊

Hey congrats Martin. I've noticed setting the cruise control helps bring down consumption. Otherwise that right foot is too tempted to get those horses galloping under the hood 😂

Using the cruise control on a highway trip, my 2l diesel XF regularly gets 3.7 l/100km

Hey Jon, sorry to hear about your restricted performance woes. Mine is a 3.0 Petrol and have never had this message, but you would need an OBDII scanner to scan the codes to see what's causing it. It could be a dirty mass air flow meter, a full diesel particulate filter, a vacuum leak, - also, here's a link to the forums where a guy had an issue with the turbo actuator getting stuck in full open position - a bit of lube fixed the problem : jec.org.uk/forums/viewtopic.php?t=8102

Hi I own a 2012 3.0d Portfolio S. I had the dreaded restricted performance pop up for the first time when cruising on motorway. It became more frequent over time and frequently when engine under load (often when travelling on an incline). Turning the car off and on again seemed to clear the message. Eventually it began to effect my DPF Regeneration cycle and since restricted performance message would pop up the regen. Would be terminated. Local mechanics and a jag specialists all said it was my driving style /characteristics (mainly urban / city driving) and my DPF would need changing (red DPF light and constant low power mode activated). Not true as it turned out. Eventually a jag specialists in west London diagnosed a split oil cooler radiator which was replaced and I have not had any problems since then. The restricted performance is a generic message which is the cars way of saying something is outside of parameters so it will reduce power to prevent further damage. An OBDII code reader will be helpful but only jag dealership or proper jag specialist can do a full diagnostic to identify the root cause. Restricted performance on 3.0D may suggest any of the following: DPF issues Compression issues / air leak Manifold absolute Pressure (dodgy sensor which then causes further issues) Crack in intercooler Crack in engine rocker cover (cheaply plastic) Split oil cooler Issues with the turbo actuator (note: there are 2 turbos but one is more prone to this) Get it checked out by specialists as it will only get worse over time and could cause further damage. Hope this helps

The glue on those ones is usually very weak though and I severely doubt it would last here with the mechanical stress, temperature and moisture changes.

Doesn't work using these, the mechanism just crushes them

Hey Zereldo, I've inserted a link in the description above (click show more under the video). On the eBay ad, select the 4.2mm gauge and 16mm length and you'll be set. The link to the grommet set is also in the description. Good luck!

Definitely replace your struts. And put some oil in all the joints and clean any crud out. It will definitely work.

Sounds like the springs to me

Hey Matt, I would start with the struts if you've already done this mod. If that still doesn't do the trick, you could try replacing the little springs on that mechanism. I did a video on replacing them as well.

@@carfanfan I've seen both your videos on the springs and the struts mate. Learnt loads about the car through your videos. Keep up the good work. Much appreciated 👍

@@carfanfan replaced the gas struts this morning and it works like a charm now. Thanks hilton. Would never had known if i didn't stumble across your videos.

@@Matt-qe9yf Heyyy! Awesome Matt. Glad to hear it's working!

The grommet seals it from water intrusion

Hey John, the grommet is there to put tension on the screw as there will be a few millimeters of screw sticking out and the trunk lid will most likely bend it when you go to close the lid - therefore, I inserted the grommet to take up the slack between the screw head and the part where it is screwed into the trunk as support to avoid the screw from being bend or knocked out of place. It worked very well, but I'm sure as Pete Day showed, he had a different solution so there are probably many ways of achieving the same result.

Don't worry, it won't corrode in that location as moisture doesn't really get there 😉

@@carfanfan I'm quite scrupulous about preventing the car from any corrosion or rust. The screws you used, are they steel? Or aluminium/stainless? I was only able to arrange steel one's given the size and type of screw.

I would only do that if the lid no longer opens automatically. Mine was being stubborn so it required the mod. Hot and cold weather also play a roll. When it's colder, you will notice it won't open so much anymore because the gas contracts in the cold and expands in the heat to provide more pressure.

Yes it worked last night, today the temperature dropped and it rained heavily in London - now it doesn't work anymore