The take away of the video: Turn off all breakers, never work live electricty Wait 5mins Measure voltage at inputs to see 0V Work with insulated gear When in doubt, don't assume, just ask a pro/search answer Good thing you are fine, DC power feels very intense painful

I’m an electrician, 3:41 that screw driver is your mistake, I use only insulated ones that have a plastic layer on the shaft all the way down till the edge to prevent exactly that.

I was an electrician for years, years ago. Navy nuke and commercial nuke and NEC licensed. When you use your meter to test it dead, use the LIVE DEAD LIVE method. Test the meter on a known live circuit to make sure it is working properly. Then check the circuit(s) you’re verifying are dead. Then go back to the live circuit again to verify the meter is still working. Depending on the multimeter and circuit, you may want to test AC and DC. I get what the electrician told you about the quick touch method before grabbing on, but do LDL first.

I am a retired electrician. You ain’t feeling nothing yet until you have experienced 480 V three phase commercial power. That will seriously wake you up and maybe even put you to sleep. I don’t recommend.

I usually work around 120, 277 and 480 volts every day & its always good to know about electrical hazards like this one thank you for sharing. Just wanted to say there are a lot of electrical gloves but the ones you are using is mostly work gloves or not electrical. It needs to be all rubber gloves and leather on top to protect you from shocks. I would search (class 00) electrical gloves they are the proper gloves to use but you'd have to search what its rated for. Class 00 is 500V AC/ 750V DC rating. For safety like turning on a main breaker for a commercial building its recommended to use the most expensive one you can afford and a good flash suit. But to avoid all shock hazards its definitely better to deenergize everything and check with volt meter. Just another note of my many years of working with electrical those gloves you are using can still shock you - I've been shocked with crazy high static when I was opening a light fixture, this is most likely because the metal is not grounded & for some reason it builds up a high voltage charge. I've only been shocked by 120v AC but yeah its always best to turn off all breakers / main breaker with a lock when working on electrical. But be safe out there when working on electrical.

Why the ^*&$ are you messing with the connectors on an energized piece of equipment? Everything (and I mean EVERYTHING) would be off and cold before poking anything in there.

A long time ago, I was replacing an old fuse box with a circuit panel, and accidentally got whacked real good with the unprotected mains power. Fortunately it was only a single leg of 110 to common, so it wasn't _that_ dangerous, but it scared me enough to up my safety game considerably. Likewise when I almost lost my eye to infection from debris I took to the face while weed whacking a long time ago. Started wearing safety glasses while doing yard work after that. That was after I almost lost an eye to a broken small (like 3/64") drill bit while I wasn't wearing eye protection, and afterwards started wearing eye pro in the shop. When I was a kid I used to work for a roofing company, and couldn't be bothered to wear the tether, until I fell off a roof. Then I started latching to the tether. Some day I'll be smart enough to be safe _prior_ to being injured. Sad to say I'm still pretty dumb about safety on things that haven't hurt me yet. Don't be stupid like me.

Thanks for the safety reminder, Ray. Glad to see that you're well.

A lesson hard learned is not soon forgotten.

Unfortunate that you found out about the nature of many of these units by getting shocked, but yes, the PV is not isolated from the AC output for many of them. If you read the manual they can explicitly state this or if you are more technically inclined and it's not explicitly stated they will say something such as do not ground the + or - wire of the solar array, ie do not attach PV - to your system earth bar. It is not a deficiency. It's just the type of design and likely will not change to an isolated design. The same thing goes for grid tied inverters. PV goes into a buck (boost) MPPT circuit into a HVDC bus and the H-bridge that produces the AC output fed is directly off that. There is no transformer isolation. It's not good that so many people are unaware of or do not understand what non-isolated means. I've made similar comments to what I've posted here far too many times on forums etc.

I am a Growatt owner and I can confirm that there is voltage on PV.. In my case it happened on the panels and it was at night. So I was sending voltage to the panels

I wish more people on KZfaq would take the time to let people know the dangers of electrical shock. Thank you. P.S. Glad you're okay

Thank you for helping us be more aware and possibly saving ourselves from a very bad outcome.

Thanks for the info and video you probably saved a lot of people from getting shocked.

Ya, I did the same thing with my Sungold inverter. I was screwing in the pv wire block at the inverter and got hit with 78 vac. It was a waker upper. Then, after searching the YT for answers, I ran across Will's video. Thanks, Will. And thanks for sharing this video. Cheers!

This was an eye opener for me, thank you!

Glad you’re OK! The dangers of working with higher voltage can never be overstated. I’ve got in the habit of shutting down batteries, inverters and disconnecting PV, THEN testing for voltage. The capacitors in inverters can (and regularly do) contain significant voltage that will zap you even with everything turned off. Don’t work on solar (or anything else dangerous) when tired or distracted. I’ve been guilty of this in the past, but luckily no shocks. 👍🤩⚡️☀️🔋

Very glad you're OK. Appreciate the reminder and info.

Thank you very much for taking the time to make this important video.

Good video. I can confirm this issue also. I get hit by my MPP LV6548’s at the frame of the solar panels for the same reason. My right arm twitched for a half hour after that. Thankfully. The Luxpower inverters don’t have this issue. The EG4 6000xp, 12kpv and 18kpv don’t have AC on the PV input. Adam Delay had a similar experience with his EG4 6500’s a couple years back. Really appreciate you bringing this up.

I am very a-feared of working with electricity. The manuals that come with these units often need a Rosetta Stone to decipher. I disconnect all PV breakers, turn off batteries with switches I use, switch off automatic breakers. I also check power with a multi-meter and I also discharge the capacitors inside the Inverter/MPPT before fiddling around with anything. The fiddling is limited to connecting/disconnecting main power lines in/out and PV in/out. I also made insulating sleeves for any battery cables of cables with exposed wire or terminals/lugs. I use heat shrink cut to length and small enough to be snug on the cable/wire. I electrical tape one end closed. I have red and black ones for pos and neg cables. When I disconnect a cable on the batteries or All-in-one, I slip on a sleeve and make sure it is tight enough that it cannot just slip off.

I have found that when working with solar ,you shouldn’t assume that breaking a connection means one side will be dead. Moonlight on a solar string can produce deadly voltage.

Glad your OK bro...

Tip1: Never have more than one tool in your hands at any given time. If you're going to switch to another tool, lay down the first tool, before picking up the other tool. This also applies to when you're not working with electricity. Tip2: Use screwdrivers that are bought insulated. If you need a screwdriver, which you can't buy with insulation, add several layers of heatshrink with glue (one layer at a time of course). Tip3: Always, always - if possible - work with power off. Sometimes it's not possible (when you work with batteries directly), but whenever possible, switch off the power. ... For Ray: About the van: I'd recommend insulating that aluminium frame, so you'll make future accidents less likely to happen. 😃

Thank you so much for making this video. I'm glad your ok man.

Safety is So important. Thank you it was very informative and educational. The smallest system that caused death on Solar panels were on a RV 24V in 2018 in Dubai

I agree with your electrician friend. I ALWAYS confirm with a NCD or probes before I touch any connections. Cheap insurance. At minimum get one of those compact fluke voltage detector pens. Be aware, though, that the ones I've seen are only rated for AC, so if you're messing with DC voltage, probes only. The other thing, which I didn't hear you mention, is cutting off power at the sources. Had you disconnected solar, batteries and line, the only voltage left would be residual in the caps within the device. While I wouldn't bet on it discharging right away, that would at least hopefully keep from providing as severe and continuous of a shock.

Very good comments down there. I used to build substations and had to deal with induction from the over head lines. One of the easiest extra caution is using screwdrivers and pliers with a 1000V insulation. Yes, they cost a bit more but worth every penny. Agree with the person mentioning dead-life- dead check. If a cheap meter is not showing anything you have to check it on a known power source. Thanks for making RVers aware of this.

Any electrical work you MUST use insulated tools. That way You’ll live another day

You can add shrink tube to the screw driver, but really good video. I wouldn't expect power to flow out of the solar terminals. Indeed, best would be to disconnect the batteries and turn off the inverter plus wearing rubber gloves and insulated screw drivers.

A good idea is to insulate all screwdriver stem or buy electrician screwdriver that are already insulated.

Thanks for sharing. Important information. Glad you are OK.....

That sound like good advice. As is the case with most things in life, don't try to save money if it is dangerous to do so. Never be ashamed to hire a professional when you have a project that involves high voltage or current. I always watch how to videos, and then only do the parts of the project myself that I am confident will be safe to do. Plus, if you fry the equipment, you'll probably spend more to replace it than what the professional would have cost to do it for you. I also believe in learning with cheap lower power devices by building smaller scale prototypes of the project, even if that means that you buy devices you won't necessarily need again.

Great review of the issues with the all-in-ones. Thank you.

Thank you so much for the safety tips. I am so grateful that you are still alright after this incident.

Watching from Yosemite Kentucky. Wow! Thanks for sharing.

Great life lessons! Always .... always treat all installations as live. That story with the hand behind your back is probably pretty legit, if you factor in everything else needs to apply to that rule...always wear insulated footwear and ensure you are not on a conductive surface... eg standing on an aluminium ladder which or vehicle not on dry tyres.... campers with jack stands for example would not be a great idea to think it has insulation rubber on the tyres. Also remember plugging a camper into the electrical system will give it a path to ground...its likely if its not plugged into a socket and it's sitting on rubber tyres....there is a change in ground potential between any connected metal/conductive surface and ground, which in itself could become unsafe... you think this is silly until someone incorrectly wires an appliance or socket... as an example.... I have seen cords made up where live and neutral are rotated in error and then the ground wire has been accidentally pulled out, leaving the normal strip plug switch leaving all the sockets live with no protective earth.... on a camper this is more likely to be a hazard due to the likely hood of more conductive surfaces bringing it back to the natural which would technical complete the circuit causing a shocking potential (no pun intended) Also remember not all tools are created equal.... as a tool lover with an interest in tools and specifications.... although "insulated" some tools only have a rate of 12/100/250/500/1000 volts.... just be careful out there as modern solar arrays can go into the 100s of volts, its not uncommon to see 800/1000/1500v systems.... use the correct certified tools! Same goes for shoes/gloves .. certified safety personal protective equipment from a professional and reputable supplies is likely to have a known safety rating.... Electricity is no joke.... stay safe out there, if you do not have a decent understanding, please get a registered, qualified professional to ensure you have a safe installation!

Great advice. Please be safe.

As my vocational school teacher here in Germany said almost 30 years ago: Only use insulated tools when tinkering with electrical installations. I have lost two side cutters so far because I cut live cables. Both were insulated, and nothing happened to me (apart from a shock).

Very similar thing happened to me, I immediately ordered a complete set of 1000v insulated screwdrivers when I came out of the "shock" from what happened

It is clearly written in the safety manual that equipment must be switched off before working at the terminals and that you must provide your unit with switches at the PV terminal. I also have a differential switch at the outlet plus a normal current limited switch. In addition, the power grid inlet can be easily disconnected, which I always do. In addition to all these precautions, my batteries are "floating", meaning they are not connected to ground, because that would attract lightning coming from the solar panels. Their frames ARE externally grounded though, making the power station thunderstorm proof. Don't use your electric grid ground for that, else you attract lightning into your house! ⚡

Tech Tip 1: proper gloves for testing starts with a thick pair of dry leather gloves or leather (for snag protection) over rubber. I have one pr leathers I use for nothing else as regular maintenance that accumulates dirt, oil, sweat increases chance of shock-thru. Tech Tip 2: you CAN insulate multi-drivers if you can put shrink tube over the metal parts except the driver tip. I have a ratcheting driver with shrink tube & a manual multi-bit also shrink tube protected, and those can be used for general maintenance as long as you do a quick inspection before electrical work. Tech tip 3: always check electrical safety gear every time before starting electrical work no matter how recently you checked previously.

We have an off-road place with a Trace 4048 I’ve had for close to 30 years. I have a transfer switch to just run the generator and a switch that isolates the AC input and output of the inverter. The it’s just a matter of shutting off the inverter dc breaker. I just changed the batteries for the first time in 30 years. I like to leave the meter hooked up and watch the voltage go away.

Thank you for sharing, Ray. I am so glad for you and your family that the outcome was not tragic. I think it is best to just shut it all down and let them complain that dad is messing with stuff again, rather than dad not being around to do so. Take care❤

You can easily insulate your multi-bit screwdriver shaft (and any othe screwdriver, for that matter) with a sleeve of heat-shrink tubing. For even more protection, shrink a second layer of tubing over the first one AFTER that first layer has been shrunk on.

Hey Ray, I got an idea for your next video. You should get a ground bond tester to measure potential between different grounding points on your solar equipment. I don’t think I ever seen any KZfaqr do a video on that yet…. So it would be kinda new with interesting results. I use one every week at work before we start up new equipment and record the measurements in Ohms. You can easily see what that ground point is rated for depending on the spot and thickness of wire. Love the channel btw

I found out about it the hard way too. It has since become a well known issue, at least on the solar forums. At the time i had never heard of it and had no reason to suspect the inverter would put AC out onto the PV circuit. Now we know..

Thank Goodness you're OK. Thank you for posting this valuable lesson.

Please get yourself a set of electrical insulated screwdrivers, they are not so much more expensive than normal ones and would have spared you the pain and fright that you got.

Thanks for showing what can go wrong!

Need to know your circuit. De-energize everything using provided disconnect devices. Double check using multimeter, non-contact voltage detectors. Use rubber gloves rated for electrical work on both hands. Use only one hand. Use insulated tools meant for electrical work. Under ideal conditions even 12v can cause the condition you went through(the reason why 48v was not a thing in automotive world, until recently-nothing has changed yet, except some automakers taking risk to cut down cost). By the end of video, you already covered the info.❤️👍

Good information. Thanks. Good practice however is to disconnect all power sources before working on anything 😮

I always use my insulated electricians screw drivers for that very reason. This video will no doubt save lives. I got DC shocked when 11 years old. Nothing like a 110v ac shock. Picked me up and threw me completely across 1 bay of a garage. Scared me and had pain in 1 arm.

Yes, you need an AC and DC disconnect, and anytime you work on your PV system, turn them off.

It's always good to have reminders on safety.

Thanks for the advice 👍🏻

It was just as much an issue with you being grounded on the chassis with your elbows as it was touching with your forefinger on your screwdrivers metal shaft. You can touch “live” as long as there is no return path for the current to flow through. I made sure apprentices knew this 100%.

Here I am wanting to be overly safe lol Turn off the breaker, test. Physically disconnect AC, retest. Physically disconnect the panels. Turn off the DC breaker, test. Physically disconnect the battery. Turn off the unit. Test, test, test insulated screwdriver

Great information and a worthy cautionary tale. Thank you for your transparency and for this video!

This is why there's electricians. As to multi-mode, hybrid inverters, case of getting use to them as the norm and not messing about with such equipment without knowledge some experience, test gear and tools, otherwise Darwin.

Where was the AC that shocked you coming from? Was it from the inverter or the grid? Your video was very informative.

Oh wow, glad you're ok!! Looking initially like it's a Growatt issue as EG4's not showing anything on meter. That or grounding in RV vs home installation.

A jolt through the heart can change your heart rhythm. You may fell ok but best get yourself checkout.

Safe isolation. Use a proving unit like the fluke t150. And a box to simulate voltage. Check the fluke on the voltage box. Check the voltage on the NV a you are going to touch Check the fluke again against the voltage box. Remember even if you turn something off capacitors hold voltage and can kill you. Even something like a flash gun on a camera has a lot of danger. You were very lucky chap. Stay safe. Oh and the bi facial pannels, you may want to move them away from the wall as you’ll capture more light behind them. Thats the key to bi facial.

So glad to hear that you're OK

For any body who doesn't know too much about their equipment they should TURN OFF EVERY THING before they work on it. To be really safe try to ground it as well. For people knowing things a little better then the "one hand in the pocket" rule is not bad BUT THAT MEANS DON'T TOUCH ANYTHING WITH ANY PART OF YOUR BODY other than the hand you work with. For people that know a little more then most MPPT solar regulators (that control the solar input to the batteries) regulate on the negative side and have plus as common but for some reason most people ground the negative side of the battery to frame. That means that what blows the fuses in this video may well be the battery voltage. Also measuring an ac voltage doesn't necessarily make it dangerous. It depends much upon what current it can deliver but if you don't know then turn it ALL of before you work on it. To get an electric shock is not necessarily deadly. I was an apprentice for repairing Radio and TV sets many years ago and over the 4.5 years it took I estimate that I got a shock at least once a day on average. Most where small but some where big. Some from very high voltage and some from the mains. The finger on the screwdriver we used to charge our selves to the picture tube high dc voltage (15,000v + dc) and then draw a spark from a mate. They didn't like it but we all got it back again at some time. If you get used to shocks it isn't nearly as dangerous I believe. Just think about animals and electric fences. Some are very scared of it and some don't care. They just go through the fences as if there was nothing.

I am an Electronics guy, and yet I also got a ( little ) 90 Vdc and like 115Vac shock while working on the Solar Input line (at Night --- thinking that it would NOT have any Voltage on it ... ( even while the Inverter portion was On). They call it galvanically isolated. In this case --- and Many others --- the solar input lines are Not galvanically isolated from the inverter voltages. So with these (MPP Solar, EG4, Growatt, et al products) ... MAKE CERTAIN that the Inveter portion is Off before working on the Solar connections on the unit. And or even Better, to shut the whole thing down. Note: I touched the case ( and Solar pos) when I got shocked. Later I discovered that There was also similar activity n dc voltage on the Solar negative (-) line as well ( at night--- when the inverter portion is On).

Extremely valuable info. Thank you. Glad you are okay. WOW!!! I saw you wearing gloves in an earlier video you made and thought that was a great idea. I bought a pair and received them yesterday. Will always wear them around high voltage...anything over 12 volts. Thanks again for sharing. Tom

Good video! Thanks for mentioning Will P.

Ya, its called electricity. Respect it, understand it, and you will not get shocked. Mistake one is using non-insulated tools. If you’re going to work with electricity buy the right tools. Mistake two be aware of your other body parts at all times. Do not be part of the circuit. Understanding how electrical circuits works will help you with this understanding. And the bonus point whenever possible turn off all power. You’re not an electrician, you failed on many levels, but its good your sharing these mistakes with DIYers as you could save a life by reminding people to be careful and respect electricity.

The design of hybrid inverters means that the panels are referenced to the AC they are not galvanically isolated. That because they switch to the same DC bus so you basically touched the mains with only a diode drop and a few. It's not a fault its the way it works. Over here it's 240v so much more spicey and would have killed you.

Good PSA. Also be careful where you source those fuses. Most if not all fuses from amazon or aliexpress are fake and permit way more current than stated on the fuse.. sometimes over 3x the current and for hours. There is no quality control or testing on these and those cheap kits with lots of fuses are especially dangerous. Use only quality fuses from a dealer you're 100% sure is not selling trash/counterfeit fuses.. it could save your bacon. Don't cheap out on fuses :)

It's common. You can bond neutral, ground, and battery minus and probably solar panel frame together. Add GFCIs as well. Then it will trip if any current leaks to ground / chassis.

Glad you survived that nasty event! I have a couple of solar power converters which have been switched off from PV and battery sources for months now. The units are also turned off. But they have been beeping lately! I suspect that that capacitors inside them might be running down to levels that are triggering some alarms. This suggests that the capacitors in such solar units may not fully discharge after power-off. So there is danger even from completely turned off units!!!

I am also a solar installer, after any system we install, we first check if there is any short touch in the system, on the DC side of the inverter in the DP, after that we proceed with the work.

Thanks for sharing your experiences, these are good lessons for me going forward. On analysing your experience with floating/stray voltages on the chassis or body of the inverter and caravan, I thought of your grounding system. You may need to check the grounding system and probably install a portable grounding system for your caravan. I suggest so because If you recall the testes you conducted on the inverter supplying your EV and the one supplying your house, they both registered zero volts, an indication of suggesting no floating voltages, and this could be explained by the fact that your house has an effective and efficient wired ground system that is bonded/connected to all electrical appliances, including your inverters, to provide this safe earthing system. So please try getting someone to check and possibly strengthen your electrical appliance grounding/earthing system.

Great info and glad you’re ok. Regardless of the level of knowledge, training, or certification, anyone can benefit from electrical safety and hazard training. Statistically, it’s the 15+ year vets that are involved in the majority of shock, arc flash, and arc blast incidents. So just a reminder that it doesn’t matter what your background might be, we should always take time to refresh and look back over what we are doing to make sure it’s safe. Never be too old to learn and do better.

Please note the small auto fuses are typically rated for 32VDC. Do not use them on higher voltages. Also, introducing short circuits into electronics at random locations may not end well.

Always use a screwdriver with an insulated shaft.

I'm sorry for your accident, but you need to know that 99.9 % of hybrid inverter are NOT ISOLATED VERSION. There is use with high speed switching power supply. So in you check the manual is mention that the invert must be in OFF state in order to connect the solar power supply. Second : this inverter don't have ani MC4 connector so this is very bad. My advice is : if you don't know what you are doing please ask electrician to help you. To work on on any electrical panel you MUST USE ELECTRICAL WQUIPMENT ( screwdriver that is rated at minimum 1000V ). Also I didn't see any fuse on battery connection ( you need to have a fuse and also a separator between inverter and power pack ) if any of your BMS MOSFET transistor fails you can get on fire. So try to fix this it. if is there then just take it as info. Stay safe. Alex. PS: DC voltage is more dangerous than AC because all your muscles will remain contracted as the voltage passes through you

Your RV is not grounded. Because it has rubber (tyres). Which will not go to earth. May be check that out.

Instead touching those wires I often short them before work, in any case popping a breaker if left unnoticed.

I normally do small diy electrical on my 100 year old home. Some areas still have nob and tube. I always check for live wires with a multimeter before and after. If you are still unsure, then turn the power off to the whole house.

In the instructions for working on any of these you are supposed to disconnect every connection and test every electrical part of the inverter before working on one of these inverters. That is what I do. I have two EG4 6000XP's.

The problem with inverters is the have very large caps inside. Even if you turn everything off you still need to short out the DC terminals to get rid of that stored energy. Apart from that working on an inverter connected to shore power and live is just dumb. Ray, thanks for being so honest and putting this video up as a warning to others. The Growatt is not isolated which is a big no no in power electronics. There should never be AC voltage leaking through to the DC side. Buy a Victron - it's safer.

Electrician Here Small suggestion when it comes to working with electricity don’t use cheap screwdrivers. Get electricians screwdriver set they’re insulated all the way up to just before the tip. And the thing is, they’re actually not too expensive, but they can be a lifesaver.

Ive installed that same type of growatt before and got a tingle off the screws on the side face plate of it and that was 240v. It's because it needs to be earthed to the ground. If you look at anything that generator, inverter they will have an ground screw. When i had finished testing it was grounded and i touched the same face plate screw and got no tingle. So if using in a rv make sure all power is off before touching anything.

Hell yes, me too, worst shock I’ve ever had, had a Powmr 5k, it had 430 volts at the solar input and live to the panels. Man that hurts.

Thanks for getting the message out there that something that looks DYI actually isn’t and should be left for qualified people to do. Yes, these voltages are dangerous and should only be worked on by trained people. Anyone surprised that a wire on the positive lead contacting the chassis will spark is proof that you are not trained!

This is why I spent a little more money and went with Victron products. I bought SOK batteries back in 2021 and then an MPP Solar LV2424 AIO. I noticed weird behavior from this unit that concerned me, plus the stand by consumption was 40 watts. With the Victron MultiPlus-II unit I have, along with my Victron MPPT Charge Controllers, I don't have to worry about AC voltage on my PV inputs. I still am mindful of the dangers of both AC and DC voltages, as I have atrial fibrillation and do not need a shock! Glad to hear that you are okay, but you should be aware for possible future heart rhythm irregularities.

WOW! good to know and thank you for sharing. Specific to Growatt unit? Are you still happier with the Growatt all in one and server rack battery over the Bluetti in your RV belly? Was considering EG4 and their server rack battery for the RV. Do you see this problem with their units? I'm trying to decide between these EG4 3kH all-in-ones or a portable power station for my stationary RV, that I will live in while I build a small house. I will sell the RV once done with house and just use whichever fI choose for back up for house for critical items. My experience is limited to the Bluetti AC180 so far, but the all in one inverters seem to be pretty beginner DIY friendly, but certainly not as fool proof as power stations. Saw your video where you put Bluetti 200 max into your RV which gave me hope in regard to siting and tying in to RV. That was helpful! Very appealing too, especially as I could take it out when not living there in winter. I'd have to get an expansion battery for sure, and wonder if I could wire one of those EG4 server rack 100amp batteries to extend it much more, or at least charge station back up at night if needed. Will be using some solar panels too. 1200-1600 But then I'd have to move those HEAVY server rack batteries for winter. What to do? Confused and need to pull the trigger on something, especially as there are sales on stations right now! Your house solar system looks amazing, and truth be told I'd love to aspire to that. Thanks again for that heads up!

I’m not sure if just hooking up the battery can charge the ports, I don’t trust any of it anymore, I put shutoffs on every single wire and it gets nothing touched till it’s all dead

I wear FRE rated clothing, a helmet with a visor and class(00) leather gloves with rubber insert. Whenever I’m in a panel less than 600 volts, this is my go to equipment, always. Those work gloves you’re wearing, do not provide much protection. Please get insulated gloves and tools, at the minimum. Thank you

In order to to work safely with electricity and electronics, you must be smarter than the electrons. Work only with unplugged components. Wear rubber/pvc coated gloves to avoid shock, since many components have charged capacitors inside. My latest purchase of a DVM came with a pair of gloves. ;)

Few weeks ago i had same issue when i was changing my PV wires 🤦 I wasn’t sure what happened but now i know for sure what was wrong there, just mine is 220v unit 🤦

Side issue. Those breakers that isolate the PV, that you flicked off, are they rated for DC? I was watching a British video the other day, where they now require special DC switches for isolation as thermal arcing on non DC breakers has caused house fires.

Always wear safety glasses when working with electricity also. Good information always shut the inverter down before working on it check voltage. I have a EG4- 6000XP haven't gotten it fully connected yet. It does have the UL 1741 listing not sure if the growatt model you had did think to get a UL listing should never have 120V AC on the PV lines. Another good reason to make sure the panels are grounded.

Yesterday, I was up on my roof, changing out an MC4 connector on the positive line. It was a very hot and humid day, and I was sweating profusely. I went to insert the crimped terminal into the plastic housing when my right elbow inadvertently brushed up against the frame of a panel. I got zapped real bad. So, thanks for sharing what happened to you.

Thank you. For clarification, the AC was on the Positive DC terminal "In" directly from the Solar panels (after solar DC disconnect box), correct? I hope the all-in-one folks will show us schematically how this is happening and a method to avoid it.

The electric safety fuse pannel is messed up, it misses crucial components and you were not using electric screwdriver.