Don't forget to use ipa instead if the wood filler is waterproof or something like that

Ya another coat of putty would have done it but that drying time. I can probably wet sand the clear coat and give it a few more layers of clear to get it smooth. Will still see the lines in the colour underneath though even though the light reflections will be smooth

I’ve also used it straight out of the tube and found it’s a lot of work to spread around. Thinning it makes the process much easier.

Thanks 🙏

Do you find the spackle holds up well? Doesn’t crack or chip off?

Thanks :)

Ya, works great for large smooth areas. Can work for detail also, you just spend a lot of time cleaning up the details. Up side is it’s easy to sand off

hehe, just clicking the variable layer height button would do 90% 😆👍

That’s great until you print a complex shape or something big

That only work with ABS plastic.

It worked quite well with ABS, no further smoothing needed, just dunk, dry and it is smooth. However I used ABS from a cdrom unit door that has calcium carbonate as a filler that just precipitated so the resulting solution deposits a transparent layer. It is smooth to the touch but with a good look you can see the lines through the transparent layer. I will get some 3d printing ABS hopefully with an acetone soluble pigment but even as it, it is great when painted. It did not work well with polystyrene as not enough goes into solution and it mostly stays as a goop in the bottom plus the deposited material is not strong or that well adhered so it can be scratched off.

It’s an interesting idea. Are you using pla prints or abs?

@@DaveRigDesign PLA of course. I don't even have ABS filament so I scavenged for ABS and found an old cdrom tray made of ABS for the experiment. I will be getting some ABS filament specifically to do this even if I am not really interested in printing it (I don't have an enclosure or a way to deal with the fumes).

I’ll probably stick with UV if I’m trying to smooth the part and us try if I want a textured surface

@@DaveRigDesign thanks

Should be the same.

There should be a link in the description for Amazon in Canada. Bondo makes the same product. I know you can get that on Amazon.ca or go pick it up at any Canadian tire.

I suppose, but I painted cars back when the only people that wore gloves were medical professionals and things worked out fine. Just don't eat chicken wings or Cheetos while working and you should be fine :)

I would say, for small spot fills where you don’t mind waiting for it to dry putty would be more convenient. For anything bigger resin is easier/faster to apply and faster drying.

@DaveRigDesign if I want to smooth a circle, i feel like pouring ALOT of resin on top will save me time vs applying thin layers with a brush. What do you think? Like instead of painting on half a cup like you do in your videos, pouring 4 cups on top of idk half dried thick and slow resin.

@Red_Rubber_Duck if it’s flat ya you can just pour it in and let if self level

It's just a sphere I cut in 1/2. You can create it right in the slicer and print at .3 layer height.

It can if the part has any flex or the holes you are filling are too big

@@DaveRigDesign the cracking happened on a large surface area of layer lines, no holes and no flex to the part.

@PikachusGift not sure…. could be due to how thick it was applied. Maybe wasn’t totally dry before you painted? Once dry it’s shouldn’t shrink.

@@DaveRigDesign I let it dry for a few days. It was so weird. I've had it happen on a few prints but not others.

I use the acetone + putty combo too but I use very thin layers. Dry quicker and I havnt had any cracking problems.

The increase of 33% print time doesn’t offset the paint time as you still need to fill and sand.

You mean a spray paint can instead of air brush? Yup.

It’s not like it’s a chalk board :)