Excellent tips all around. :)

That is awesome! Always happy to help. :)

Yep, I just wasn't sure I wanted Goo in the title of the video. :)

Thank you sir, I really appreciate it. :)

That's awesome, I had no idea on the difference there, that is really good to know and I like the split you have of the three bottles.

@@VinceVenturella Something of a perfectionist and when there wasn't a practical way to fix details or smooth areas that got damaged I found the really thin plastic glues could just smooth those areas out if you applied it sparingly and gently. Just like you would when glazing. However when you do this, you sort of pick up some of the plastic in the brush and transplant it back into your bottle, so over time the bottle becomes contaminated. A bit less 'hot' as scale modelers would say, but that is actually a bonus for smoothing out the plastic, as it is less likely to burn too much, it will stay smoother like it did when you filled the sides of steam tank. So if you want to make a number 2 bottle from scratch a good way is to actually take a sprue and a blade and just scrape off plastic from the sprue into little curly shavings and put pinches of it in to dilute the glue. The shavings are so much thinner plastic that they melt into the pot very quickly. But something scale modelers do as well is apply tamiya thin onto a flat area wet, then while the area is still quite hot and the glue has had its chance to melt the top layer of plastic, come in with various tools like an old stiff brush or sculpting tools to bash up the area and essentially make it look more worn and lived. If you aren't happy with the result or want to go again, just let it cure, then fix mistakes with your filler bottle and then go again. You can even apply it to smaller areas and work it with a stiff older brush and create more textured 'rusty' areas that when you paint and weather normally will really be textured. Once everything is cured as well you can still go back and polish/sand to get a smoother result of your work. So you can give tanks that cast metal appearance.

That's a cool idea, I didn't think about the color difference. I always have scrap plasticard, I'll give that a try.

Always happy to help.

Excellent, happy to help as always. :)

Awesome, happy to help as always. :)

Excellent, happy to help out as always. :)

The magic potions for insta-painting are an upcoming video.

Awesome, happy to help as always. :)

Thank you, happy to help as always. :)

Thank you, happy to help as always. :)

Yep, it's my Kitbash go to.

Always happy to help. :)

Awesome, happy to help as always. :)

My christmas was great, thank you and happy this video was helpful. :)

Thank you, it was fun for sure. :)

Yeah, I really love it, it's wonderful to see how easily and thoroughly it mixes everything.

Great tip!

Yep, you have to careful about those strings, they can happen for sure, always be careful and just trim them away with either a knife or if they are very thin, you an burn them away with a lighter real quick.

oh yeah, you can totally do that, if it's already being dedicated to that, then you are good.

Soon I will be hooking up lightning to my miniatures and then we will really have something. :)

In general, I will say that the goo is generally pretty recognizable, but a drop of ink I don't think would change the mix in any detrimental way.

Shake it. ;)

Thank you, happy to help as always. :)

It will keep for years as long as the lid is kept on as tight as you would for glue normally. Though if you are using it frequently you would need to add more Tamiya Thin or acetone to it, to sort of thin it back out if you find it is getting a bit too thick.

I made my first bottle of this stuff about 2.5 years ago, and then ended up taking a career path that kept me away from the 'house' for 2 years - that same bottle is still ready to rock. as Sock Badger states, if the top is open frequently you'll want to add more solvent as it will evaporate. You can also play around with different consistencies.

@@NarcolepticLTD Yeah you can fill larger gaps if you make a thicker consistency mix with more plastic runners/frames/sprues into the mix. Though you will need to use a sculpting tool or dental spatula to apply it, as it will be too thick for the brush at this point. You can also use this to reinforce the back parts of plastic tanks you plan on chiseling detail into, but fear cutting right through. Combine it with plasticard for an easier time.

Yep, as they mention, it's basically good for a very long time, every so often you need to refresh, but it will last a very, very long time.

Huh, despite have a tight seal, mine turned solid fairly quickly.

That's a great point, I really should have mentioned just using it as a supplementary glue, excellent call for sure.

Happy to help. :)

@@VinceVenturella Been using it for about 2 months now.. This is one of the greatest tip ever.. Thank you for making the building / assembly of models so much faster and easier. You're the best!

Excellent, happy to help as always. :)

Happy to help. :)

Excellent, yeah, this is a great one for sure, it just makes things so easy to fill small gaps.

Great video and Happy Holidays, Vince! I remember learning this trick back in the late '70s early 80's, from if I remember correctly, one of Shep Paine's books. It's helped me throughout the decades, thanks for resurrecting it.

Thank you sir, happy to assist as always. :)

Glad it was helpful!

Fascinating stuff, thank you!

Totally agreed, this is my absolute go-to.

Glad it was helpful!

Thank you, very happy to help. :)

All over the place. Part of what I do with my black highlight, it's a step (stay tuned, you'll see in a few weeks). I also use it a deep cold shadow, an environmental filter shadow through the airbrush, dark lines, eye dots, all sorts of things. It's great.

Yep, I've actually moved to that as well. :)

Several questions,let me take them in turn. 1) I have only used Extra Thin, though I believe in the comments here, someone mentions using Plastic weld and having great results. I really need to try that as well, as I am sure it would work excellent. 2) I have used plasticard with the plastic glue and that works great actually. 3) I haven't tried Styrene, but I can't think of any reason it wouldn't work, the plastic glue works on it and melts it. 4) I never use an accelerator on my plastic glue (only my CA glue), but I don't know of any reason it wouldn't work. 5) I've never used the baking soda trick at all. I am familiar with it, just never had a need to try it. Hope that helps and glad the video was helpful. Hopefully there are some other items in the playlist. I am always happy to answer any questions you have and welcome to the channel and glad to have you along on the hobby journey. :)

Hard to escape.

Thank you, happy to help as always. :)

Awesome, I will have to give it a try. :)

Yep, it's something scale modelers have been using for so long, it was great to bring it more over here into miniatures. :)

Good to know.

I would imagine so yes, never thought about that. :)

Yep, I would just do this again (or go to matte varnish if the gap was really small) and then lightly sand.

Yeah, I learned the plastic difference later. The slurry is so useful, it's my go to.

Yep, I didn't have an extra old thin bottle (I haven't used enough of it), so I went with this alternate choice instead (I didn't want to make people buy multiple bottles.

You're welcome!

It will last for years, I can't speak to forever, but it should last several years at least.

Yep, just a standard emery board set I bought from amazon, I get sets with multiple "grits" to them.

Indeed

Yep, I basically never throw brushes away, there is always a crappier use.

Totally fair.

Thank you, I really appreciate that and it means a great deal to me. For right now, this is my passion and hobby and a comment like this is more than enough to say thanks. Who knows what the years ahead will bring, but I am happy with everything as it is right now. :)

Thank you!

It's coming soon. ;)

Sadly, this is only for plastics, you will need to use the plastic putty as you mentioned or something similar for resin. :)

Strange, I've never tried it with anything but the Tamiya.

@@VinceVenturella looks like adding the extra cement to it helped. Maybe looks a little thin now really but at least it's not a giant chunk anymore. I'm going to test it out tonight on some objective markers I don't care to much about.

That's actually a great idea. I love it.

Close, the stubber is from the Imperial Knight kit, the cannon is the old empire cannon.:)

Good tip!

Sounds like it didn't completely break down. Seems like a more glue situation, add some more thinner and give it some time and see what happens.

Forget the question.... just read below and there were answers :)

Yep, the answer is basically a very, very long time. :) - Glad it was helpful.

Yep, just right over the top, sand it down, new layer of primer.

That should work just fine. :)

That's interesting, I will have to give that a try. :)

I'm gonna have to mess with this one...

@@VinceVenturella The alcohol part starts about halfway through: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/e79odMaVzpudfWQ.html

You are correct on the clean-up. The advantage here is that everything is completely welded and you have the mass there and it dries fast, but if you get too much, you are basically sanding it down afterward.

I can't say for sure, I have honestly never tried with Acetone, I have only done it with the Tamiya extra thin as you only need a little bit of it to make a decent amount of Slurry to last for years.

It would not, you need basically the sprue type plastic.

Happy to help, sorry it was late. ;)

Yes, this would be a great plan honestly, if you get to the bottom of the bottle where there is just enough, it's a great final use for sure.

They would have to be plastic so it melts in, I am not familiar enough with the materials to know if it would melt in. :)

Yes you can, I just didn't like the existing brush as was a little too small to really spread.

Thank you, the opening is Take that Back, the in video quiet music is a random ambient track in Electronica, both are from KZfaq's free music. :)

Good call out, he does great stuff for sure.

Basically forever. I mean it will eventually dry out and you may have to add some extra thin plastic glue. But it should easily last several years.

plastic cement is pretty much pure acetone actually

Just a figure of speech.

Oh yes, I have a few kit bashing videos planned. :)

I have, I use it to clean up small mold lines, I couldn't really give a whoel break-down, I've mainly used it on GW models and haven't had an issue.

Thank you 😋

If you used like plasticard or something instead of sprue, it would form a white mixture and that can be very helpful for that very purpose.

So do not actually put this in the oven, this is a joke I regret to this day, I was making an allusion to cooking shows. :) - No, just let it sit for 48 hours and then it will be ready to go. :)

Absolutely, I basically use this to put together all my models and fill any gaps.

No, that was just a joke to show that it takes time, I had to switch to the one that already had all the plastic broken down. :) - It just dissolves over time.

@@VinceVenturella Well sure, I knew you were joking. Yup. And also, no one is embarrassed over here.

Sadly no, this is for plastic only as the glue won't melt resin. FOr resin, you need a more traditional putty.

As long as it's airtight when not being used, basically years.

Thank you, happy to help as always. Black and White painting is always tough, I have it on the list, but it's really tough. Here is my best advice and simple cheat though. Take a photo you like of a miniature or image that you would want to copy, and turn it black and white and then really, really stare at it. If you follow that map, you should be able to achieve the middle grey tones, that's where the magic is, all int he grey tones.

Hi VInce than you for the reply. I'll have to practice on sold on minis before tackling the NOTLD release next year.