I discovered their Plastic Putty after making this video and have been using pretty regularly. I am pretty sure I mentioned it in my follow up to this video.

Glad to hear it, I made a follow up video a while after that might be interesting to you kzfaq.info/get/bejne/rdebhsiTzLa7eIU.html

I originally thought it was related to them being push fit models, but the push fit Space Marines don't have the same issues. I honestly think it was just a poor design decision when they were making the model/sprue. Rushed process or something

All corporations suck

yes, so freaking annoying... obviously it's not too still their liquid green stuff ™.. gw would never do such a thing

Thanks!

Milliput would be a good alternative if your prefer working with it. Really any type of two part resin putty should work. I have tried using Milliput before and I am not a huge fan of it, it feels too sensitive to water/humidity to me and gets sloppy for me. That being said I have seen people do wonderful work with it, so I am sure my issues are more of a user error thing then a problem with the product.

Yup, I learnt that after I made this video, I actually did an updated version of this video that covers using a plastic slurry like you discussed and using UV resin, kzfaq.info/get/bejne/rdebhsiTzLa7eIU.html

I did a follow up video to this one where I showed how to melt down sprue in Tamiya cement to make an adhesive filler that sounds pretty similar to what you are describing.

@@SleepyWhatsItI didn't see the follow up video but cool! I find it often works better than the various putties on the market.

The specific tool is from a wax carving kit that I bought some time ago from the surplus store near my house. The tools from that kit are also pretty good for applying things like texture paste. Looking online, I suprisingly actually managed to find the specific kit that I have, amzn.to/30FPqUn. In addition to those specific tools, I often use clay shapers like these amzn.to/2WSn0oV and a hobby knife. I am not a particularly skilled scultpor, I mostly patch and gap fill, so I am not sure what the best tools for proper sculpting are. With regards to a larger list of tools for modelling, I am currently in the process of working on a video that will cover what I think should be in base miniature painting kit, since I made one for my brother's birthday :-) Though it will not be the next video that comes out, since I have another one that I have been working on that I am planning on finishing for this weekend.

@@SleepyWhatsIt Thank you for the info and links!

Glad you found it useful

www.sunwardhobbies.ca/alpha-abrasives-mini-hobby-and-craft-sanding-sticks-assorted-0101/

tl;dr: I trim the pegs to make them fit better and use glue to lock the model together. I used to use CA glue exclusively, but have moved to using plastic cement over the past year. If assembled carefully using plastic cement you can often avoid the need to do gap filling later. I had a much longer response originally, but YT ate my comment when I posted it, so I will attempt to summarize it. My process for assembling push fit models it to sand or cut the posts a little and then use my hobby knife or a drill to widen the holes. I am aiming for being able to assemble/disassemble the model but still have a bit of a snug fit. I am using the pegs as guides instead of a lock fit. I will then put glue(CA previously, cement more recently) around where the top of the hole will make contact around the base of the peg and along any other surfaces like edges that will make contact when pressed together. If done well with cement then I don't have to gap fill. The big thing is to not get liquid into the holes, because that will often prevent the peg from fulling inserting, since there is no where for the glue to escape. Sometimes if a peg is being an issue, like there are 3 or four for them for the pieces that are joining, I will just remove it. You could take that to the logical conclusion and just remove all of the pegs. That will leave you without a guide, so aligning the edges maybe harder and you will probably need to hold the model while waiting for it to dry. If you are going to be doing a lot of GW or other plastic cement compatible assembly, I would recommend getting Tamiya Extra-Thin Cement since it is very easy to control how much you get where and being able to weld the pieces together speeds up assembly so much. I used to only use CA glue, but I have found that I have been doing a lot more cement compatible models recently, so have transitioned to using cement when possible.

@@SleepyWhatsIt I see, thanks for the answer. Personally I feel like if I'm already using glue to assemble those anyway might just get rid of the pegs all together, as far as I can tell most of those models are divided in a way they can only fit together in one position anyway, so why not just glue along the joint? Gotta figure out how to hold them together as they dry though, maybe get some tiny clamps or something :^) I'd get me plastic glue for testing but right now I don't really have space for an exhaust box, and I'm not inhaling those fumes either, so that gotta wait a few more months when I can finally move to a bigger apartment. In meantime I'll see if I can do something similar using CA glue... I'll prolly end up with tons of nasty marks where the CA overflows and a ruined miniature or two, but I got this box of sequitors for testing like this anyway... I like the idea of drilling the peg hole for test assembly, didn't think of that. What I did instead was scrape off some of the peg in two or three places to make it kinda triangle-shaped and shorten it a bit as they are almost always too long.

@@benjimlem1284 Depending on the specific model, maybe try elastic bands for holding pieces together?

@@SleepyWhatsIt hm, I guess that could work, but I imagine putting them on and taking them off could be a drag... my current idea would be to use laundry clips - they're cheap, and easy to get. And in case the jaws are too narrow for a bigger model I thought about getting a pack of resin mixing spatulas (they're like really big ice cream sticks) and just gluing them on top of one or two clips. And I could add some foam too, to make sure the pressure is nicely and evenly distributed. Maybe I'm overthinking this but I've always liked to overengineer things :P

Nobody cares

@@RebZoomer i agree

I hadn't considered that. I normally stay away from using baking soda on my glue because I don't like how it makes the joint look, but if I am going to be sanding anyway. Thanks for the tip, I will have to give that a try sometime.

This method works well for filling gaps, I've used it a few times now. It really does need a good sanding afterwards. As with most things, the more careful you are while applying this, the less clean up you will have to do once everything dries.

Thanks

I know some people prefer Milliput, but I personally have found it difficult to work with, because it is more sensitive to water. I will admit I haven't tried all the varieties since it isn't readily available at most of the game stores near me, so I might just be using the wrong type. If it works for you that is awesome, I have seen some people do some cool basing with it in addition to gap filling.

@@SleepyWhatsIt good thing is all you need to do is dampen a rubber sculpting tool a bit to press it into gaps and seams. Green stuff sometimes requires quite a bit of water to not stick. Both work well though, I used green stuff for years before I tried Milliput

@@Kharn121 Next time I am somewhere that has Milliput I will have to pick some up and give it another try.

You can run mineral spirits into milliput to create a paste and just brush it in. Then use another brush with the spirits for cleanup on areas might have accidentally hit. Works great

@@zzconmanzz1 Thanks, that is very good to know.

Likely true :-) Once I finish the bottle I am working thought I am probably going to try some of quick setting.

That is an interesting approach, I can see how that would avoid the issue entirely. I suspect I am foolishly optimistic and plan on not having to do gap filling, and then curse past me when I have to do it.