Fantasitic tips, I love all of this. This guy couldn't do the new trick as much (as those are worn through on this model, which I suppose supports your point). ;)

@@VinceVenturella You're welcome! This was a great video and simulated worn leather better than any other video I've seen!

@@VinceVenturella I also used the wrong term: the stretch marks would be perpendicular to the thigh.

Excellent, it just rolls off my tongue at this point, glad to hear that is spreading.

Yep, the chaos and the random markings are a feature, not a bug. :)

As long as you weren't distressed. ;)

Thank you, always the highest of compliments. :)

Great to hear! Always happy to help.

Awesome, thank you! :)

Awesome, wonderful to hear and always happy to help. :)

Great motto!

Excellent, happy to help as always. :)

Glad you liked it!

Happy to help!

Sure, any sort of worn leather this is a great tactic and it's very stress releaving.

Awesome, always happy to help. :)

Glad it was helpful! :)

Glad you enjoyed it

Well thank you, I actually grew to hate it, but it was a good learning of what I don't like.

Yeah, this kit was a technological marvel for its time, but good lord, the gaps.

Always happy to help. :)

Thank you, very much appreciated as always. :)

Absolutely, that is the most fun about stuff like this, chaos is your friend. :)

No worries!

Thank you, always happy to help.

Yeah, you have to watch out, it's very easily scared, poor leather.

Always happy to help. :)

Thank you, always happy to help.

Thank you, I am glad to help and always happy to answer questions. :)

So I have a few videos on rust, I would start here - kzfaq.info/get/bejne/Z9OYibh8qrK8paM.html There are several more in the list on heavy rust, streaking, etc.

WHO IS IN THE WHELPS! ;)

It would look great on those kinds of troops, and what I'll say is that it's a wonderfully simply process (especially across a unit of troops, because the first one is dry by the time you get to the last one).

Just stipple like this, but do it in both ivory and a dark brown/black, then put the transparent layer over. :)

Well, Vallejo Ivory or Pale Sand is a pretty good place, but any kind of off-white will work.

Always the way. :)

50 DKP MINUS !

Always happy when the references land with folks. :)

@@VinceVenturella That one was a very well received landmine!

And STOP DOTs!

Pro Acryl, from Monument Hobbies, I have a review of them on the channel.

@@VinceVenturella thank you very much 😃

Thank you, there really wasn't much trickiess to it, but it was almost the same as the skin in this video, most of the colors were the same - kzfaq.info/get/bejne/n7t2odx9sZ3Hg40.html

I assume you mean the area right under the armpit? I could be mistaken, but judging by the video it actually looks as if there might have been a seam line there after assembly which was filled with something (presumably an epoxy putty of some sort); so my guess would be the wrinkling and texture is actually from areas where the putty was applied since, when it comes to skin, you can easily get away with not carefully smoothing out putty work (and some might even argue that it looks more natural if you don't do so).

Yes, I think in this case it was a seam line that I had filled and forgot to properly file all the way down, the simplest answer for that (and what I should have done) is to get some 400-1000 grit sandpaper and make sure you smooth that stuff out.

I have Copper, for Bronze, you would just subtract most of the orange and replace with a red earth color - kzfaq.info/get/bejne/l7KdqJmo3rWah6M.html

It's the pigment. Craft paints have a large pigment, they aren't ground as fine (the pigment quality and the refinement is what costs money and hence makes craft paints cheap. They are low quality pigments and not highly refined). The key is miniature paints are made for the purpose. I know they can seem expensive, but there is a real difference in quality and they are worth having a good set.

Yeah, I think you certainly could, but I generally like at least a thin primer layer through the airbrush, but it would probably work.

@@VinceVenturella Thanks, i'll try it out.

So I stipple the tops and bottoms of the belt, occasionally drawing the stipples into hashes to simulate wear and cracking. Then glaze in a dark color in the center of the belt. If you want to go all the way, I then glaze a brown over everything as here and I then restipple the edges (again, as here)

@@VinceVenturella Thank you! Will try again, perhaps I will need more patience... ;-)

I was wondering about this too!

So this is an interesting question and since I'm a leather worker I might be able to shed some light. Hides can be tanned via one of two methods; vegetable tannins and chemicals such as mercury. For the purposes of garments, you'd most likely use vegetable tanned leather (a.k.a. veg-tan), especially if you were intending to add any kind of tooling (stamping, carving, etc.). Veg-tan leather begins as a light beige/buff sort of color and because its so light when you dye it (especially with darker tones like blue) that dye really penetrates and you have to do some pretty serious damage to the leather to see any hint of the underlying original color. So if I were to approach this idea of dyed blue leather that's been worn I would minimize any use of brown tones (in all likelihood I'd avoid them entirely, but that's my preference); people are familiar enough with dyed leather that simply by replicating the weathering and damage it should still read to the eye as leather even though its blue. Depending on how dark a shade of blue you were thinking of, you could even experiment with adding a little purple in here and there; then its just a matter of shifting your color palette for this technique away from brown and replacing it with blue inks and washes.

I am going to default to Runesmythe's answer here, that kind of real world experience is beyond me and I think his advice is dead on.

TheRunesmythe thanks so much for the detailed response! Going to try it out on something this week.

Funny you should ask, the technique is quite similar, but I have a video specifically on it - kzfaq.info/get/bejne/qZ6HndJ9lZ7KlJ8.html It's an earlier video, so please forgive the production quality, but the techniques should still help.

I use a magna rack for my display pieces. For transporting armies, I went to the store and bought a couple large tupperware tubs for a few dollars each. Then I grabbed a couple flat cookie sheets, again for a few dollars and just hot glued them down. Easy peasey and I can transport my whole army.

@@VinceVenturella Thank you so much. No issues with either for air travel?

@@dustinasche I try to avoid ever taking armies on planes. I travel with my mag rack all the time and no issue there.

Well, I have several videos on it, but it was literally a single thin coat of flesh air paint over a zenithal prime. You can see the process here (albeit with blue, but it's the exact same thing, just replace blue with flesh) - kzfaq.info/get/bejne/gJOUhLheybmykWw.html

@@VinceVenturella I'm curious how will react the oil wash on top of zenithal prime and color .I don't really like how acrylic wash working on tiny layers of airbrush paint .

It's freehand, you can see me do the tattoo here - kzfaq.info/get/bejne/rZZ7ZrWWp6_egmQ.html

@@VinceVenturella You are an animal haha. I tried to do the worn leather on the scraps of clothing on the kruel boy gut rippaz. In a dark red.. I wanted to get a kind of yellow/orange marks for the wear and tear. It didn't really come out very well but my painting is still in it's infancy. Going to try again on another soon.

So with smaller leather straps, it's harder to do. Here is my normal technique, I give them a solid base color, I run a light glaze through the middle of the strap of a slightly darker color. I then edge the strap in a lighter color but with a stippling method. I will add this to the list of future videos.

It’s the airbrush thinner that is doing it yes, lots of additives will add a shine, the key is to just give it a good ultra matte coat afterward.

@@VinceVenturella I certainly wasn't expecting a reply from the Sensei! Thank you very much for the insight, I've since received some AK Ultra Matt varnish and will be giving it a go this evening

Presumably he used his normal method; primed with black, zenithal highlights (grey and white) then applied a coat of the Aggaros Dunes over that to get the initial beige/buff tone.

Yep, standard zenithal highlighting, if you have some questions about that, I have several videos on the channel, you can find one sample video here - kzfaq.info/get/bejne/gJOUhLheybmykWw.html

Those drones I hired are really paying off...I mean, huh, good luck! ;)

@@VinceVenturella Mmmmm I thought the constant buzzing was my tinnitus...now it all makes sense ;)

Of course, always. ;)

I live in the UK, I'm aware of 'distressed' I would go as far as to say it's in common use. It's often used to describe deliberately aged clothing, distressed denim and leather is a term used alot by clothing retailers.

@@Goza80 never heard of it in my lifetime. I've heard of 'worn denim' or 'worn leather' or 'scuffed leather' but never 'distressed' ! I've heard of 'torn' or 'threadbare' / 'tattered' cloth'.

Just Google it, theres many retailers selling distressed leather such as sofas, jackets, shoes. It means 'aged' looking not necessarily cracked or torn

Well, happily this technique should work no matter your choice of adjective. ;)

Leather gets emotional really easily. ;)

Yeah, my distressed leather recipe is shockingly lacking many things with leather in the title, but my skin recipes use them almost constantly. Ironic.

Water Skiing, no good at it. ;)

Sorry if it was too long, I have tried recently to shorten the videos in new form and I have a video on leather coming soon, hope it works better for you.