I would have liked to see the Wattage a little higher I guess the conditions were not ideal so the wattage could have been closer to 200 Watts?

Normally it would be, but I can't control the weather and I have deadlines.

@@HOBOTECH i ended up buying one you seem pretty impressed so. Plus I wanted a 200-watt panel with a smaller footprint

Ah new technology. Apples and oranges to older systems. Unless you have a controller that can handle the higher voltage. But then, you did , quickly say, not backwards compatible.

I don't suppose a step down, would be feasible.hmmm.

That 40c per watt doesn't include shipping. Pallet of 30 residential panels shipping is almost $800 for me. No one ever factors that in. Agreed, if you're doing a large build to get 450w or bigger panels.

It seems here in the UK solar panels are one of the things that are actually cheaper than in the USA!😮 Here a 400w (54 cell) residential panel costs from £60 ($75) or about half the price. Also for most cities you can just drive and collect panels locally for free. If you need 30 panels (not many people here have that many as we have small houses and yards) you might need to do three trips in the car.

@@HOBOTECH might want to check back into residential panels, 12X 370 watt (480 bifacial potential) comes out to $1,511.91 after shipping and tax. just under 41 Cents a watt. BUT i understand not everyone is looking for that many panels to deal with.

This looks like the perfect power dense panel to mount to the roof rack on Lexus 100 Series LX470. There's not a lot of space up there. I've only allocated the front 1/4 of the roof rack for a solar panel. This may fit. Thanks Hobo!

The dual panel design is about 20 years old tbh. Other companies are splitting each cell up into its own thing, running them parallel with bigger busbars and different types of junction box on the back to really maximise it. Makes it really heavy but really efficient.

@@Fl4pperswhat are some panels with that tech?

@@mattheword I honestly dont know the name, I saw a couple mentioned on youtube about a year ago. Might just be one smaller company. Instead of the usual junction box it had one about 6x12 inches on the back. You can also get water cooled panels now too. Linus did a video on that.

Thank god these panels aint app dependent.

Lose

Morning and evening sun is the worst for output due to the sun going through more atmosphere. Pointing them south at the correct angle for your latitude will provide the most output over a solar day. Anyone saying otherwise is just pondering for clicks by trying to be controversial.

@@HOBOTECH Well, yes, and no. There's a good bit of research of vertically oriented bifacial panels vs. standard south-facing panels angled perpendicular to solar noon sun. The results are closer than you'd think in the summer. However, there's a larger difference in the winter months when the sun is lower in the sky.

@@unknownquantity4440 I'm sorry. Interested in your comment, but I didn't understand. In the winter, which is better, vertical bifacial panels or standard south-facing panels. Thanks.

@@annnonomys3132 Vertical bifacial pointing east-west instead of south are better in the winter. Where I live (55 degrees North) I suspect an east/west orientation is better in the summer too: since the sun rises in the North East, moves to the south, then finally sets in the North West.

@@jamesphillips2285 Thanks.

You need nothing. Solar plugs into the solar generator. I have reviews on all their models.

Great, thank you!

It is ambient temp but in a lab under artificial light. So you're right, the panel is tested not heat soaked. Mine was soaked in direct sun in all tests.

Utilize the south facing building wall if you can.

Finding panels that are a best-fit for whatever form-factor you need has gotten a lot easier. I use a ton of 100W panels off a back railing simply because the form-factor is an almost perfect fit for a 3S configuration in between each post (charging a 48V battery system, so it needs roughly 65V VMP to work well). I've considered upping the dimensions numerous times to increase the power density but so far nothing has been able to fit that form factor better than the 100W panels I have sitting there now. I do have much larger panels on the roof, and two large residential panels on top of a Pergola. Fitting the form is the way to go!

The old 200w BougeRV panel shouldn't be mixed with this one.

@@HOBOTECH Thanks for the answer, I bought a 200 Watt bi-racial panel, I pray it works with my shootem up, bang bang CIGS panel, which I also bought on your recommendation. So just to be clear, one side is Chinese and the other side Utilitarian ?

I was considering leaning them against the side wall of the greenhouse but with the winds we get I need to reconsider. I have lots of pallets and those are what I used in the past as mounts.

The one I reviewed a year or two ago?

And the price is sweet.

The snow melts on the top half, so you get power when others won't.

@@gregyohngy that one too. Partially back online faster.

@@gregyohngy Yes, though to be fair it is fairly trivial for mount normal panels at a normal angle and just insulate the back for winter, they will auto-clear the snow on their own twice as fast as just leaving the back open to the elements. Vertical panels also potentially have more serious issues in high winds. I think the concept is sound as a fencing alternative, but maybe not so good for a main mount.

kzfaq.info/get/bejne/geBzorB_z7Srp2Q.html

I just ordered the Bluetti AC180P, I'm thinking about getting this panel for it. I just wonder how realistic it would be as far as portability. These glass panels are always better performance wise than the portable ones but they take up more room and I'd be nervous about transporting them around. I got the AC180P primarily for camping and the occasional power outages that seem to be occurring more frequently where I'm at.

It should be fine. You could also put them in 2 pairs of 6 series-parallel to cut the volts in half. Be very careful working with such high voltages.

200Ah of batteries is 2560Wh. Take 2560Wh/360w effective solar = 8 hours under perfect conditions.

Any panel works with any controller as long as you meet the voltage requirements.

Flex panels (besides CIGS) are trash.

@@HOBOTECH That has been my impression regarding flexible panels....until your video on CIGS. I guess I just need to figure out if I'm willing to paste the CIGS or make a structure for these new "shade" panels. How to attach seems to be the difference between them, yes?

Yes, but you still need to bolt them down or use weights as they will still take off over 50 mph.

@@HOBOTECH Thanks.

Yes, they sell mounts on BougeRv site. Use code HOBOTECH.

Links works fine. Just tested it. Try a different browser or disable your VPN.

You could use these or the Yuma CIGS I reviewed a few months ago.

⁠​⁠​⁠@@HOBOTECHHow many of these 200W bifacial panels can I connect to the two solar inputs of my Delta 2 max?

Agreed. I'm looking at Canadian 400W panels right now for about $110 each

How much was shipping? No one ever factors that in.

You have a 100v controller so you can buy either and put them in series.

It wasn't aluminum foil, it was board insulation. The panel was half on concrete half on dirt. Wanted a consistent reading.

“ blue Eddie” 😂😂😂😂😂

Surely

Or should I say Shirley…

It will work on ANY power station that can handle 35v or more solar input.

It has a 10 year warranty so at least that long.

60% aren't subscribed yet!

100/30 means 100v at 30A. So you can do 2 panels in series, then as many as those pairs you want in parallel up to the cable amp limit (30A for 10awg cable). In your case, 8 panels total, or 4 pairs in series-parallel.

the 100v is max input voltage ( max input amps is 35) from the solar panels the 30 represents the max output amperage based on the battery voltage the victron spec sheet says with a 12v battery max is 440 watts and with a 24v battery it is 880 watts. 2 or 4 panels at 200 watts each is all the controller will handle.

I own 6 Victron controllers. I know how they work. What I said was THE CABLE is rated 30A. Put as many as you like in parallel until the cable melts is all good with me.

Could I use 3 panels in series with my 100/30 victron mppt? ​@@HOBOTECH

That's not correct. Vertical bifacial is a use case not a requirement. To properly use bifacial they are usually installed on ground mount arrays with the back exposed, correctly angled for their location.

Unless you live in the arctic circle, never install panels vertical. You angle the front south according to your latitude. The cells are two sided and the light coming through the back glass is muffled and won't provide as much as the front.

2400Wh(12h charge) or 4800Wh(24h charge) battery + 400-800W solar (800W or more for low sun areas). You will potentially need a huge battery/grid/generator if you don't get sun for a few days.

You are better off building a greenhouse and using the spider farmer at night while the natural light in the daytime. You will need close to 10kwh of battery and 3000 watt of solar for that setup.

Thanks Pro Hobo. Still tinkering with my dinky system. All your info helps. Gett'n smarter n big'r.

Like the other person said, only run the lights at night to save power. Take 200w X hrs needed, and that's the watt hour of the battery required. You'll need those watt hours divided by 5 (hours) watts of solar to recharge during the day.

And deal with winter, and have enough battery buffer and solar to deal with poor weather. It really depends on how reliably you want the solar system to operate. One thing to note here is that if you have access to the grid and you just want to use the solar/battery system to reduce your electricity costs, that's a much smaller system than if you were off-grid and needed to run the greenhouse / grow-light reliably 365 days a year. The smallest cheapest system you can get is basically just a beefy power station. If you are a rank beginner with solar power and batteries, a power station is really the safest and easiest and cheapest way to get started. Just start really small and run with it for a few months to get your feet wet and begin to understand all the issues. I would recommend something really simple and straight-forward: * Mid-range power station in the 500-600Wh storage range. Just to start. It won't be big enough but you don't want to spend a lot of money getting your feet wet. * Enough solar panels to max-out the power station's input. Typically 3 or 4 100W panels and typically in a 2-series configuration and two or three sets of those paralleled. * You still want a combiner box and probably a MC4 crimp kit. Its just safer all-around verses what most beginners do and buy those really horrible MC4 paralleling connectors (that are fire hazards). * And then the AC input to the power station from the grid can just be on a timer that charges the power station up to full from like midnight to 2am or so. * And another timer for the grow light as appropriate (though most grow-light operations run the lamp 24x7). Cheap, simple, easy to understand, and gets your feet wet. -- LEVEL 2 -- The next level up is to start working with discrete components. But there is an easy intermediate step and that is to us an all-in-one MPPT/Inverter/AC-interfacing/the-works box. These can be simple and small, but not necessarily well-rounded or efficient, or they can be large, expensive, and complex. Going really cheap and not worrying about quality so much, we're looking at, oh, a Renogy 48V all-in-one ($600), or a PowMr 24V all-in-one ($520). Or an Eco-Worthy 3000W 24V all-in-one ($490). Minimum system voltage 24V. 24V or 48V. Avoid 12V (it won't scale well). Then you basically wire everything into it, taking into account the voltage range supported by the solar input and so on and so forth. Requires a bit of electricial DIY vibes. Typical tools: * Wire stripper * Ferrule kit w/crimper * MC4 crimp kit w/crimper * 10 AWG and 2 AWG cable. 2 AWG for the battery cabling, 10 AWG for the solar panel cabling. * Insulated tools Klein is fairly good. * Batteries. Can be simple. 24V or 48V depending on the system voltage you chose. LiFePO4. 48V batteries are 51.2V nominal 16S LiFePO4 (don't get 48.0V nominal 15S LiFepO4 batteries). For example, you can buy discrete LiFePO4 battery about the size of a regular car battery 100Ah @ 25.6V or 50Ah @ 51.2V depending on the voltage you selected. You can buy larger rack-mount batteries that are typically 200Ah @ 25.6V or 100Ah @ 51.2V nominal. All LiFePO4. Etc. And you can parallel as many as you want (though the more you parallel, the more you have to deal with safety fusing and breakers). * Solar panels. Start with 3 x 100W panels and scale up from there. * Solar combiner box. Even if you are only starting with one string, buy a combiner box and use it. This gives you expandibility right off the bat for later on. Its worth the money and time to do this from the start. * Main battery fuse. MRBF (Marine Rated Battery Fuse) & appropriate mounting gear. * M8 bolt, washer, and lock-washer kit (M8 is the most common terminal type. Other common types are M6 and M10. But M8 is the most common). * Battery bus bars if needed. Typically 100A+ on Amazon, basically these are simple busses with additional terminals and plastic shields. One for positive (red), one for negative (black). * A backboard to mount everything on. * A DIN rail can be useful for mounting DIN-mounted fuse holders and MCBs (miniature circuit breakers) and other stuff you might want or need. If you do wind up thinking you need MCBs, get only 2-pole unpolarized DC MCBs. A good brand on the cheap would be CHTAIXI. Type B, (faster trip) not Type C.... Type B is safer for beginners and tends to be a bit higher quality. Note that you can always throw in additional charge controllers connected to the battery bus. You aren't dependent on just the one MPPT that all-in-one units have. -- LEVEL 3 -- Level 3 is going full-on discrete components for everything. This is already a long posting so I'm not going to cover it here. For more advanced DIYers who really need to scale-up.

These were well packaged, no issues and my FedEx driver sucks.

Unsub and resub. It's a bug with KZfaq.

Video is absolutely marked as sponsored and plays "paid promotion" at the beginning. It's enabled by default. I don't have to state anything, you make your own conclusions. I was not testing in perfect conditions and don't make claims without testing.

@@HOBOTECH I apologize! Well it isn't marked as "Ad" on my Fire Tab with cfw. My point was that, even if you are/were sponsored you would keep it real and are not influenced. In other videos you usually refer to a wattage per buck ratio. And compare it to other brands. You also stated that black panels absorb more heat and therefor perform less good than white and colder panels earlier. You skipped this part in this video despite knowing better and instead say you could get the nice looking black for the same price. Any Module is bifacial, if you do not sunproof the back. No word about this marketing trick. As an engineer i love your channel because of your objective and scientific approach. so i do not have to test things myself. Your honest and profounded opinion is what makes this channel trustworthy and sympathetic. After all you're Professor HoBo. Great Knowledge meeting not so great income. I tried to keep my critics based on facts and i still like to drink a beer with you any time! After all it's just my opinion. Cheers

Gift from my lady.

There can be a benefit. Let’s imagine that the 100 watt panel is exactly half the size of the 200 watt panel. That means two 100 watt panels give you 4 zones instead of 2. In Hobos example when he covers the middle, affecting both zones, you would still have a working zone from each panel giving you 50% performance.

Another thing to consider... really the main thing to consider, is the form factor. You get panels that are best-fit for the form factor you want to mount them on. Be it a golf-cart roof, or a fence, or a railing, or the top of an RV, or house, or ground mount, or whatever. It is always possible to make just about any configuration work, really, so optimize for the form factor and the wiring first and worry about panel wattages later.

Probably just the jackery adapter. The panel comes with mc4

8mm female to MC4 on gohobo.io/adapters

@@HOBOTECH Thank you sir.

​@@HOBOTECHI purchased the 100 watt version of this panel to charge my Jackery 1000 and tried connecting it with both 8mm and anderson connectors in full sun. Neither of them worked to charge the Jackery. I verified output was fine with a multimeter. I sought advice from Jackery and I checked everything they suggested. At this point I am just left hanging. Any suggestions or advice you can give me would be much appreciated.