John Mcclue Thanks Johnny!

Thanks!

Muchas gracias!

Como se llama ese instrumento de carpinteria?

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Yeah, white oak for this one -- but I think the only white oak bowl I've made. It was green at this stage.

Oops. Reply for the wrong comment. Thanks for your comment, Leandro!

I understand what you mean. In practice, I have never felt like there is a chance of that happening, based on the way the swinging motion feels. However, it probably is a good idea to take some precautions. One solution is to secure the blank to the bench and keep your legs off to the side. Your idea of a long and heavy apron would help too. For extra assurance, a pair of chainsaw chaps could be worn while adzing.

Thanks. That is a Stanley two-foot folding rule (four six-inch sections). Boxwood with brass binding. You can find them on ebay and such pretty regularly. I really like mine.

Best wishes as you put your new tools to work! I wrote a blog post about building the low bench that includes the dimensions: davidffisherblog.wordpress.com/2017/01/22/lowrider/

+Bill Ribble For those different colors, I used watercolor colored pencils. You can find them at art and craft stores. They work well for marking green wood.

60mm wide

Three Red Trees In the video, I am using an adze made by Hans Karlsson. I discuss adzes at greater length at my website and blog -- davidffisher (.com) and davidffisherblog.wordpress (.com)

Thanks

It's a Hans Karlsson.

Lee valley tools has a couple that are pretty good .....

I've definitely been influence by Scandinavian traditions. More specifically, with the bark-up orientation, by the work of late Swedish bowl carver Bengt Lidstrom. davidffisherblog.wordpress.com/2015/12/06/the-carving-fountain-of-youth/

neilyeag No, I usually hollow at least three or four bowls before touching up the adze.

Yeah, white oak for this one -- but I think the only white oak bowl I've made. It was green at this stage.

The quality of the log is as important as the species. Look for a fresh green log that is knot free and with little/no twist to the grain. The species depends on where you live. In general, a soft to medium density hardwood is ideal. Birch, tulip poplar, aspen, cherry, soft maples, etc. Whatever comes your way. Each tree within one species can have a very different character as well. I've had cherry that carves like a dream, and other that has interlocked grain with a brash texture. Part of the adventure.

Doug Korn Wet. Refinements will be made after drying.

I appreciate your interest in the other video. Unfortunately, I had technical misstep and it's no longer available. I did write a blog post about the design/layout of that bowl: davidffisher.com/2015/07/30/white-oak-bowl-layout/ And I have many other posts about bowl design and layout.

Yes, it is the one you've mentioned -- shallower center section with more sharply raised lips.

Thank you for your response...I won't be making the large bowls your making...to start anyway. What size it recommended for smaller bowls or will the 60mm work for smaller? Thanks.

HK makes a 50mm with a regular arc (rather than flatter in the middle). That would be a good choice for smaller bowls.

Phil, I have the slightly smaller 5cm/600g HK adze David suggested & it sounds ideal for you. It is an excellent tool. It is not ideal for very big bowls/tough woods but, despite that, I have made some very large bowls with it, including a large bowl of (green/wet) English oak. My interest was always mainly in larger bowls so, in hindsight, I should have probably got the same 700g HK adze that Dave uses or possibly the even bigger & heavier single-hand Gransfor Bruk adze. Last year I bought a second adze, a big 2 handed 7.5cm width adze from Narex for bigger bowls & tougher woods -- it is a great complement to my 600g adze and I typically use both on each bowl. But I would recommend that you try to get one adze that will suit what you mainly do or expect to do - they are quite versatile. BTW When I started out, I asked Robin Wood about the difference between the 600g HK & 700g HK adze, he reckoned the difference between them was hardly noticeable, it terms of weight/effect. One other detail, the 600g adze's blade is pretty much a semi-circle in cross-section whereas the 700g adze has flatter section in the middle. The latter being better suited to larger bowls I think.

The Quiet Workshop The adze was fine throughout. I usually carve a few bowls before needing to touch up the adze.

It is the Hans Karlsson Adze available at countryworkshops (.org)

I have a bunch of links to online tool sources on this page of my website: davidffisher.com/links_and_sources_for_woodworkers

I wrote a blog post about how I do it: davidffisherblog.wordpress.com/2016/05/07/sharpening-an-adze/

Many thanks. Appreciate your tutorials. Keep them coming.

green

Check out the information in this blog post and the comments that follow it davidffisherblog.wordpress.com/2015/07/09/the-great-adze-shortage-of-15/