Glad to hear that! Thanks for watching.

Most Honda's are all the same. 10mm bolts 104 in. lbs., 12mm 13 ft. lbs.,14mm 33 ft. lbs., shaft nuts 166 ft. lbs. If you ever wonder what the torque should be for a bolt there are online calculators. Type in the info and it will calculate the torque.

Have never used them so I don't know. However we use Precision of New Hampton and have very few problems with them. Usually you get what you pay for. Good parts cost money. The old adage still holds true for most anything. Cry once, buy once. Usually the cheaper parts end up costing you more than the good parts in time and money.

Yes it takes special tools to machine them. WIT sells them sleeved already, that is where we usually get them. Precision of New Hampton is selling some rebuild kits now, might try them. Parts are getting hard to get, as well as most anything now. Being done on purpose (IMHO). Going to make you squeal by the time it's over. Other than that I don't know. Hard parts try Slauson's in Chicago.

Thanks! I agree. Maybe not squeal but use much vulgar language.

Try Slausans for Parts that are hard to get? I don't know what's a good brand for parts and who makes what. Is it ok to use another manufacturer for steels with the raybestos frictions that I have? That is if I can't find raybestos. Thank you again!

I see what you mean by hard parts.

I don't know anything about them. We use Precision of New Hampton. Fewest problems I have had. There is only 1 place I never had a single problem with but they no longer build them or I would give you their info, wish they still did.

@@CurmudgeonTransmission ok perfect i’ll contact them I appreciate the info

I don't know it, I would have to look it up. My parts suppliers know not to send me a kit that does not have Raybestos clutches in it. Especially for this one. I don't know why they price stuff like they do. There is no telling what they are going to charge for something, makes no sense what they do. Get the one with steels, you will have a nice fresh surface for your clutches. Shifts will be smoother. If I get some free time I will try and figure out which one they sent me, but I am super slammed right now. Never seen it this busy.

@@CurmudgeonTransmission no worries! I believe there was only 2 options so that pretty much narrows it down. Don’t waste your time on it. Another question, the subframe bolts on these accords are TTY, do you replace these when you do this job? I’ve lowered my subframe a few times and reused bolts with no issues. Even measured them to see if there was any stretch but did not find anything. Just want to know what a professional like you does in this case, let me know. Thanks a ton!!

We reuse them. Never seen an issue with them.

Could be a pressure issue with the linear solenoids. Could also be a problem with the drum itself. Could also be the torque converter coming apart plugging the filter starving it of fluid. Did you replace the radiator? Should be replaced on all rebuilds of Honda's as far as I am concerned.

@@CurmudgeonTransmission I thought it could be the PRESSURE SWITCH but I took it off the old one and put it on the new one just to test and see if it’s good to go. Radiator was not switched out and torque converter per customer was from a used one that was dropped off to me. Let me take a look at the things you mentioned before I think about taking it out. If I put shudder fix dr tranny would it help with it or at this point it’s not able to fix that 2nd shift shudder

@@jaymilli9483 Not going to hurt anything at this point. I would never put a used torque converter in. That is where most Honda failures start.

@@CurmudgeonTransmission I tried explaining this particular problem but the customer said that their mechanic said it was a good converter 🤦🏽‍♂️ but I’m going to try the shudder fix and see if it subsides if not then I’ll reopen

Thanks. ATRA and ATSG websites and go to the bookstore, if they have one they should be listed there.

@@CurmudgeonTransmission thanks for the reply the videos are very thorough but I'm kinda dumb LOL.

Boy there is a lot here. Diagnosing is a whole nother' ball game. Do you happen to be on Instagram?

@@CurmudgeonTransmission I do have Instagram @nonstopautorepairllc

@@jaymilli9483 So do I, will contact you and we can conversate when I have more time.

@@CurmudgeonTransmission perfect no rush and thanks again

Most of the tubes are .312 in diameter. If it is bigger in diameter than that it goes on the accumulator body where the secondary shaft is. All the others inside are longer than that I believe, if memory serves. The only shorter ones are under the double linear solenoid on top of the transmission. There should be 4 tubes in there. 3 with orings, one above them. It is a cooling pipe, to cool the solenoid down. Have not had the time to go through the video and get you a time stamp, sorry.

Thank you for your time. I went through the video ten times by now and haven’t seen anything about it. It is .312 in diameter. It must be the 4th tube you mentioned. I will take a look again tonight. Thanks again for your help.

You were absolutely right about the 4th tube. Thank you. I had hoped you were saving me the trouble of splitting the case again, but I’m not so sure now. I just found a spring on the bench as I was cleaning up. Is hooked on each end. About 1 3/4” long. Surely must be for linkeage.

You see, I started to rebuild the trans that came out of the car originally but when I opened it up I found such a burnt mess that I opted to rebuild another trans altogether. So long story short, I had two of these BAYA transmissions completely apart in the shop and it’s possible that the spring came from the other trans. I went through all the pieces of the other trans and did not find another of this particular spring. Is there some way to tell if it’s missing from the trans that is reassembled?

There are only 2 springs like that. One is larger than the other. The large one goes on the park pawl the other goes on the park actuator, on the shift rod itself.

Sounds like overhaul time. Replace the radiator also.

@@CurmudgeonTransmission thanks. Would like to know, why the radiator?

@@thugnasty100s When these fall the converter material embeds in it. It cannot be flushed out. If you don't replace it you run a high risk of repeat converter failure.

@@CurmudgeonTransmission your talking about the coolant radiator right?

@@thugnasty100s Yes. Your transmission cooler lines go through there. That is unless you have a cooler/ warmer bolted to the top the transmission. In that case they make a kit to eliminate it and put an auxiliary cooler on it.

Also can you please give some info on the 700 sprag? I’m not sure what to look for.

Not in a long time. Better than some, not as good as others. I would go with Precision of New Hampton myself. 74658 is the number for the sprag from Transtar. Links are in the description. Thanks for watching.

WIT or Transtar. Links are in the description.

We get our kits from WIT or Transtar, Torque converters we get from Precision of New Hampton. Buy a Trantec kit with Raybestos clutches if you can, Filtran filter. That piece of paper is not a step by step guide but does have useful info in it. Honda's are a different breed, kinda half standard and half automatic. They work best with Honda fluid but you can usually get by with a full synthetic fluid if need be. If there are any shudder issues after using full synthetic you can either put a bottle of Black Lubegaurd or a tube of Dr. Tranny shudder fix, but it is rare to have that problem. Good luck on your build. Take your time and get those cpc valves super free and clean. Oh and replace that radiator, you don't want to have to do it again. If you take it to a radiator repair shop, hard to find one these days, make sure they replace the intercooler not try and clean it.

@@CurmudgeonTransmission i want to thank you for the information. I will look into this today in hopes to have it started today at least the teardown. Just to be clear, the torque converter should not be reused? Never knew the radiator had to be replaced this is great information. I have a few more questions if you don’t mind. I see that your unit is cleaned and painted. What do you use to clean the unit? I tried pressure washing it and that did not work unless I need a stronger pressure washer. This will be my first rebuild as I only work on Honda or Acura’s. I appreciate the information and will look into everything you have given me.

@@jaymilli9483 The torque converter is where your problem started. The clutch inside it comes apart plugging the filter which causes it to stop moving when it gets hot as it sucks itself shut not allowing fluid through it. Depending on how long you tried to drive it like that is to how much damage was caused inside the transmission. This same material plugs up the cooling tubes inside the radiator and trying to flush it out will NOT work, it just bypasses around it. We have a machine that is basically an upright enclosed pressure washer. I don't paint my units, if any have paint on them it is because they came in that way or the customer requested it. It just keeps heat from escaping as far as I am concerned. Match the torque converter up well with the old one before you give it up as a core. There is a letter code stamped on the side with the hub that goes into the transmission, usually 2 letters.

@@CurmudgeonTransmission i truly appreciate you wealth of information and knowledge. Today I will begin my tear down and pick up a banner kit from transtar that is local to me. If I run into any trouble if you don’t mind I would like to write you if I do get stuck. God bless and thank you again for everything

@@jaymilli9483 You're welcome.

If he did not take the unit apart sounds like the shifter is not on properly. Disconnect the cable and do it by hand and see what happens.

@@CurmudgeonTransmission if he shifts it manually by taking the cable off is it suppose to shift as if the shifter is switching gears? Also, he said the he put the shifter in D and pressed the gas and it began turning but he said when he applied brake and then let it go it wouldn’t move till he pressed the gas. I’ve never seen anything like this hahaha so I can’t even begin to diagnose this mind you this is all while the car is in the air because once on the ground it would move at all

@@jaymilli9483 Sounds like he started taking it apart and maybe took the third drum off the back?, and when he put it back on he missed a clutch and has it in a bind. But I really need to know EXACTLY what he did before I could even begin to say what happened.

@@CurmudgeonTransmission haha this will be his demise, could a bad CV Axel cause it to not engage?

@@jaymilli9483 Yes. Usually they make a lot of noise though and usually they won't hold park but not be bound up.