First, keep in mind that this is a daily driver engine. The entire point of honing is to provide a little friction to allow new rings to wear to the "not quite exactly round" shape of the bore. If you didn't hone at all, you're still likely to have sub 0.001" gaps that some compression could potentially slide past. My bet is that on an engine like this you might be dropping 2-3HP on the floor - at the most. You'll lose more than that with not-quite-exact timing or a not-quite-ideal carburetor setup. Internal combustion engines are simple and very forgiving in being able to run. If you're building a high-horsepower motor, then yes, things need to be exact to squeeze every drop out of them, but for a large majority of daily and street stuff, it's just not that critical. I remember my early days of working on cars. I had plenty of time and not much money. I suspect there are plenty of young people out there that are just starting out and everyone saying "Take it to the machine shop!" and "Just buy aluminum heads!" is not helping them out. Can you go build a motor for $5k and make power? Sure. But you can also build one with less than $500. It's not going to have as much power, but it will still move just fine and the person who assembled it will have not just built an engine, but built confidence. They'll also intimately know how that motor works which is worth more than the cost of the parts. I'm not showing how to build a mill for a 10-second car. I'm showing that engines are not magical boxes that you should be afraid of that you must pay mechanical wizards to work on. 95% of motors that aren't physically broken can be put back together in a garage with just basic tool, new rings and bearings and run for years.

Watching this as I have a freshly pulled engine on the stand outside. The surprise at the end kinda sank my spirits a little.

I've done honing in tool & die shops, I think, you're running that hone too fast! You get better control if slow done the drill! Get a variable speed drill or even better, a drill press, where a stop can be set up! So, no need to worry about running into the bearings! Also, you need a bore gauge too, to measure out of roundness or tapering etc...!

Holy fast drill speed, slow it down to get a decent cross hatch! otherwise thumbs up

oh wow, a stone hone chosen over the dingle ball hone for once.. WHAT A CONCEPT

Damn .. I was not expecting to see a crack pop up .. I’ll be watching on my build now .. thanks

my friend great 👍 video and a good understanding thank you for sharing

great explanation

Nice video. Learned about the cracks. I am doing this on a motor still in the truck. Had possible head gasket leak . One cylinder seemed to get effected . Pulled apart 6 months later to see a tiny amount of suface rust. Freed up rings . Now going to just hit with honing tool for a few seconds . I have way to clean and keep debris out. I will check compression when i get heads back on. 83k miles on a 72 350 .

I use a very old Sun boring drill and it’s really slow and heavy, have to hang it up. But it does a great job and cly looks so dam pretty

Nice sound effect on that crack, made my day.

If you ran into this video, you have probably read about 50 others about Honing. Although no measurements or tolerances are taken into account on this video; the concept and idea is legit and true: especially if its a virgin block that has been taken apart for the first time and never machined. The fingernail/visual/touch inspection works when done as described; comparing ring end of travel surfaces, to adjacent non worn cylinder surfaces that were bored and remained at the original size. I cannot fight against perfection, nor will I as neither the ball hone or the stone 3 fingered hone without a Torque Plate is going to get you perfection to within .0005" (as some keyboard purists will extol as needed) ; but the home engine builder or even the engine itself may not need the level of precision on cylinders that some may mention. One thing is for sure though; the ball hone otherwise known as the dingleberry will only fool you into thinking that your cylinders are symmetrical. The reason being is that the ball hone since it has no flat mating surface will hone every nook and cranny that it touches, so it will for lack of a better word "polish everything up" because it "blends everything it touches to sight". On the other hand the stone hone (especially the ones with larger longer stones; as in the video) will skip over low spots or scratches in the cylinder as Yoshimoshi was doing, and therefore "truing up the cylinder" (not to the perfection of a line honer or a boring machine; but is does do some correcting) The bottom line when honing at home with the stone honer will come down to how good you are not just in understanding with where you want to remove material to somewhat correct the OOR and Taper, but how good you will be in the mechanics of becoming the perfect machine while honing; spinning speed and reciprocating motion, blending from one area to another and measuring and then remeasuring; with the knowledge that after you removed every single scratch or pitting, you may be out of tolerance. Hell, you may still be out of tolerance even if the OOR and Taper check within spec afterwards since it was done without the torque plate; so basically it's a controlled machining operation with expectancies that can be attained with the result quality outcome based on the individual that is doing it; an undertaking only to be done by those who like to do things for themselves and take pride in doing so.. Which is exactly what I liked about this video. So for all the lacking of the scientific approach of measuring and of drill speed; it was certainly better and closer to having something work in comparison to other readings where it has said "Only give each cylinder about 6 passes till it looks clean" ... Yeah :) Keep on building them Yoshimoshi !

Thank You.

Also the finish depends on what kind of rings your going to run. Cast rings need coarser finish and more angle crosshatch. Moly finer finish less angle on crosshatch.

Now everyone is gonna be dry honing there block with way to fast if a drill speed

Slow the drill down and go slowly up and down at about a 1 second count per stroke.

Have you ever used water and motor oil mix that turns in a white fluid when mixed for honing or boring cylinders ?

A variable speed drill would be ideal

At first I thought this was a comedy channel. Then I realized this guy was serious.....wow.

dingle berry stone lmfao hahahahahaha. man u made me laugh at that haha. its called a dinglestone lol

I am rebuilding my 5.9 motor. The cylinderwalls still have the cross hatch, but not all around. About 20mm are missing (allways to the outside/sparkplug-side). Should I re-hone?

Will doing this change your piston size? Or do the piston rings compensate the shaft getting wider after honing it?

Drill seemed to be a little fast 😊

Once this is done do you put just the standard rings or oversized???

What about putting new bearings on the maincaps and connecting rod?

Did you cut to with ridge rimmer ? Those Chevy blocks are soft and usually have a ridge

Note to most chebey guys. DON'T USE BALL HONE ! (nevermind, go ahead use one. you'll find out later)

Can even buy oversized piston rings for new honing rebuilds ?

So might be a dumb question, do you need bigger pistons after honing like you did? If you didn’t have a bunch of build up?

How course a stone to use depends on ring type.

A tip form someone w a y smarter than me,,, after a few up/down strokes,,reverse the drill and repeat to get a true "cross hatch" pattern.

what is the grit of the stones you used?

The only way to know if it needs bored is with an inside Mike checking for taper etc( not your finger nail)

Move up and down faster straighter and lower drill speed

I appreciate what you are trying to do, but I have always used a machine shop to bore if necessary and align hone the cylinders. The cost of honing is relatively cheap, and they have the equipment to align hone. The price you pay for the hone, and time, IMO would be a wash with the machine shop. They would also do it at the correct speed. If you were going to do this often in the garage, maybe it would be worth getting equipment to do it at home. I watch these youtube videos where the poster is trying to help and cut costs. But it seems like folks are stepping over dollars to pick up pennies.

title says cylinder block but you can clearly see this block has had the cylinders removed

I knew the comment section would be lit hahaha

I was wondering why you were honing that cracked block...

Wat size stone ???

OLÀ. Não comento o que foi falado porque pouco entendi. O que me foi possível ver foi uma forma totalmente irregular de usar o brunidor de cilindro com excesso de rotação e o resultante erro de grau. Furadeira manual pode ser usada por "artista" . Não é ferramenta adequada para um serviço de precisão. ABRAÇOS... Roberto Udo Krapf

Great video! Love your channel. Wish you could snap your fingers with your hone's Infinity stones and fix that crack. Bummer.

I spent over 20 years as an engine reconditioner boring and honing 3 to 5 cyl blocks a day and i have never seen a 3 legged hone in any of the shops i worked in but i have seen the results of backyarder jobs with them when they were bought into the workshop to be fixed and i would never use one at home now i am retired. For a home rering job the ball hone is king for ring seal unless the block needs reboring. Some of the comments on here from armchair experts are laughable especially the one about the cyls already being removed but most are right about the speed of your drill it is way to fast.

Buy a bore gauge honing a taper is a waste of time. Also saw a comment about kye kelly using a ball hone on his 959 bbc. You can do that when you are at the track and you know the bore is straight. It's not like he's doing it something with 100000 miles on it.

Omg ! Great way to ruin the block.

Jesus you cut all the ring whiteness marks out haha. I garantee the cylinders are probably 10 thousandths over

NOPE! never remove the ridge if using same pistons. naturally formed protection worn in by the rings from combustion temps, just a fine dingle/dunny brush hone its much better in honing up to the ridge to carry oil for sealing , we proved it with so many engines 4's 6's and v8's . compression and leak down test faired better than 30"over new bore. lol and your attempt!? love to have a temp gauge at that speed and no flowing wash!? grinding at the ridge what's the rest of the stone doing inch down? tiers good mpg. for an old girl

deglazing :)

i LOVE the complete lack of measuring anything at all. excellent LOL also, 45 degrees? huh?? wtf who told you that? terrible !!

120000 RPM on the drill will leave a perfectly crappy crosshatch. You will NEVER leave a 45 degree cross hatch for the rings to seat to. This not what you want to do EVER! The cross hatch is effectively 2 degrees which is a guaranteed way to burn oil from the first minute of runtime. I hope everybody that watches this uses it as a video of what to NEVER do to an engine you plan to reassemble.

Ya, you wouldn't want to take it to a machine shop and have it done correctly. Not when you can have this guy F it up.

Not hone glaze breaker is not honing !!

thats because you are naming this procedure incorrectly. you are NOT honing you are DEGLAZING. a true honing removes layers.

Blind leading the blind….

FYI a daily driver should be built as good or better than a nascar engine, drag engine whatever.

JUST TAKE IT TO THE MACHINE SHOP..HONING IS VERY IMPORTANT.. IF THE RINGS DON'T SEAL, YOUR DOING IT ALL AGAIN AND MORE...

please stop using the scotchbrite pads for a serfacer!!! Ive seen over .060"" dips from those effing things. as well as car manufactures have band them from the service bays!!! that hone is about as good as the dingleberry neither is worth a poop, but they are good for cleaning the bores before inspecting. thats about all there good for. do not hone very much!!! unless you plan to have the block bored. yes you can eff up the bore with those. you may of been a lot better off getting a real hone from sunnen or lisle, the lisle is much better than what you have there, the sunnen is much better than the lisle and always use the correct honeing fluid!!! and never hone rough!! always use a fine stone!!! why do you want all the wear area gone?? your just enlarging the entire bore and misshaping it too. unless you are changing pistons and need more clearance you do not need to remove that. torque plates should also be used. look at how much the flex joint is bowed!! you now have a over sized wallered out bore....but it should be fine,ive seen oh somany like this, but that dont mean it's right., also turn the block so your going in&out easely not up and down. congrats you now have a bock that needs to be sent to the shop to be bored&honed. and yes it's common to see cracked bores.Ive seen many and sleeved many.with torqueplates&proper equipment.

F/:$k! That’s why you don’t go up to far 😅

That is a 'deglazer'.... it is NOT a 'Hone' !!!!! which a "Hone" is defined as having lateral control provision as well as a variable tension/pressure mechanism to control the cut. Those just flop around tensioned by a spring ? My point being.... that should NOT be used for any material 'removal whatsoever !!!! it should only be used to 'scuff' up the cylinder walls slightly in order to provide some friction for ring break-in only..... which, since Manufacturers have now changed the methodology for moly adherence to Oil Rings... I highly doubt that can even deglaze sufficiently for re-ring anymore.

He isn’t doing this right! Don’t use this video! Totally worthless and wrong ! An oversized wheel cylinder hone is no better than a dingleberry hone ! You need a straight bar hone and a stress plate to keep the cylinder round !