Pliers? You can't hold things properly with pliers so that's more risky. Both in terms of damage to me and the subject. The wire brush tool isn't that dangerous and won't take the skin off fingers. Eye protection is the absolute must with these things though. When work begins on the layout you'll know don't worry.

@@oobill - have you ever tried fixing the rotary tool in a vice and holding the wheel against the wire brush? (I haven't, yet, but it struck me as possibly easier, and perhaps more controllable?)

@@PeterJewell2 Yes done that a few times but not for wheel cleaning. It's easier and safer to keep the model flat and manipulate the brush I think.

I will do a video when all three locos are ready to go up on sale on ebay with links to the listings.

If they're anything like Sam's Trains listings, expect the charity to do very well! The two I remember seeing were (I think) a Tri-ang 'Polly' (or some other 0-4-0) and a Hornby Pannier tank (late 1970s). Both exceeded £120!! (And there was nothing special about them except they had featured in Sam's restoration videos,)

Try the Clock Cleaning Fluid ('no 1 ammoniated') from Priory Polishes. I think that's what Bill suggested in a video last year, certainly that's what I bought to do the job, but haven't yet tackled a loco containing enough (dirty) brass and copper to make it worthwhile. I have a small fleet of Tri-ang Hornby Hymeks, Class 31s and Class 37s waiting for attention, so it will get used eventually!

On this, has anyone any idea on the right GWR green for the HST? I was on one last month and up close it seemed metallic...

He uses a light, plastic-safe oil suitable for model locomotives. If you look on eBay, under model railways, for 'oiler', you can't go far wrong: Gaugemaster GM619, Expo 74300, Modelcraft OL1000, for example. (Hob-e-lube HL654 is also a suitable light oil, but the tube it comes in doesn't provide the same level of control.) I use a similar oil for most lubrication, including motor bearings and valve gear, but I use Hob-e-lube Gear Oil (HL655) on gears and gear spindles, as it is thicker and supposedly less likely to be thrown off. (OOBill now uses a mixture of this and moly grease). For locomotive axles, I use PECO PL-64 Power-Lube which is also a light oil, but is specifically designed to be conductive. Because the electricity has to pass through the oil on the way from the axles to the chassis, I reckon that an electrically-conductive oil is a good move!

See FAQ in description.

That's done by KZfaq not me.