Well done that man. So simple, we’re all sitting here going, “how did I not think of that?” Good to see it runs sweetly.

Use extra flux when soldering wires onto model track. A top tip from somebody who solders regularly as part of their job 🙂

Good vid, get yourself some liquid flux. Paint it on the track contact and wire end pre tinning. It will reduce contact time and give a better joint.

Hi there you can easily remove the suppression from the power track and then put the plastic cover back on

I'm so pleased you found the solution. I thought I was doomed!

I just thought i would add, if you look on some of the fantastic scenic layouts that you see in the U.S., you will notice that very rare you will notice any dropper wires soldered to the rails, the tip is if using flexitrack, to cut a web and move the sleepers back in both directions leaving enough space to solder the wires under the rails push the sleepers back and drill two small holes to drop the wires through. when ballasted there will be no wire visible.

love your videos, im just starting out as a total newbie, using youtube to catalogue my journey from scratch, i have a shed in mid repair before i can even start building, thank you for your content

I found a similar problem with the Hornby controllers - the DCC select - has issues with the Analogue power connectors (There is a Capacitor inside - both the power track and the older power clips) - but the Hornby Elite controller is not effected as much - you have to remove the analogue power connectors - as just having them connected is enough- even if they are not used!

That makes sense as in the 00 world there is two different power tracks made by Hornby they have different colored release buttons

Eliminating the capacitor is a number one fix for any dcc conversion of a dc train set. Old news.

Wonderfull news Simon, thanks for another informative video.

I used to know a professional TV repairman who was also a model railway enthusiast. He never used extra flux when soldering droppers. He just relied on the flux in the multicore solder, and as his job involved soldering every day I think I'd go with the way he did it. His used a 1mm tip on his Weller soldering iron for droppers. He cleaned the rail with a fibreglass pencil, then put some solder on the rail with his soldering iron. Then he put the wire onto the rail and heated it with the iron. The iron was only on the rail for a second. Mo melted plastic because he used the right solder, the right tip and the right temperature for the solder. Soldering droppers to rail joiners isn't really recommended for two reasons. 1) the shiny coating on them doesn't take solder very well, and 2) Carbon deposits will build up between the rail joiners and the rails which will reduce electrical continuity after a while.

Hopefully this will help with soldering the track - I find the flux in multi-core burns off on the iron, before it is useful. If you use a liquid flux, brushed onto the rail before you solder, then tin the base of the rail on its own to create a nice silver pad ready for the next stage (the solder will run quickly with the fresh flux, reducing the heat put into the rail and leaving a smooth finish). Then tin the wire with a bit of flux and solder. Finally you can sweat them together ( with a dab more of liquid flux). You will avoid melting and cold-solder joints. Cheers Chris

Of course! Why did I not think of that. I had the exact same problem years back with a starter set. The supression device is needed with the analogue control, but not with the digital control. Hornby does actually have a digital version of the power track in their TT range. I bet that is without the supression device. But of course, soldering directly to the track works just as well. I am glad it wasn't the decoder, as I was expecting in the first place.

Well sorted out Simon, you probably have helped many people scratching their heads, cheers mate, John

Such a good tip was having lots of slow running issues couldn't get my head round why in DCC and not in DC but after watching your video all sorted, thanks

Thanks for sharing, totally forgot about this too😂

Erm, that's why Hornby do 2 connectors, one for DC one for DCC with the suppression capacitor removed. This applies to their OO track too.

Hi Simon, I wouldn’t have thought of that one! Just to aid in the solder sticking sooner, put some flux on the rails before you solder, it flows and sticks easier; it took me a while before I found out, watching George at Soundtraxx fitting sound decoders. Cheers 😊

Hi Simon! Fantastic news that you got the loco running on DCC! I'm sure I saw a video a while ago where someone was having similar issues getting their OO loco to operate correctly on DCC and they were also using the Hornby power clips! I'd completely forgotten about it until you started talking about it!!! You'd have thought Hornby would have mentioned it seeing as it's a starter kit? It seems to be running super smooth now, which is excellent! All the best, Ian.

TBF Hornby do sell a specific Digital Power Track for OO gauge, I’m guessing that TT120 is still too new to have it? If they sell a DCC fitted train set I would expect them to include it, but I think they should at least mention in the instructions on a DCC Ready set that to run on DCC a you will need to direct wire the track to ensure reliable operation or provide a way to do it in the catalogue somewhere.

Well done mate, but another example of a poor product being produced. Surely Hornby should have tested this and warned customers. Glad the loco runs well now.

It might help to first tin the rails and then bring in the cables. Just like you'd do SMD soldering.

well done. this is the way i do it anyway.

Might it be an alternative to pull a couple of fishplates, and solder your connecting wires to those, then refit them to a rail join in some convenient location? The fishplates are small, should take the necessary heat quickly, and there would be no risk of melting the sleepers.

good vid on the channel thanks lee

Probably explains why Hornby have a TT digital Power connector track 🙂

well fixed !

Yes, me again. For those interested that errant electrical noise suppression capacitor is affecting the shape of the digital control waveform superimposed on the direct current power supply. Instead of having nice sharp edges to the top and bottom of the control pulses they were being rounded over. Anyone with an oscilloscope?

Its probably a capacitor, that's what they did in the dim dark old days . I didn't think you would need suppression today with digital TV

The power clip is designed for analogue and has those nasty capacitors. For OO actually sell a DCC power clip which is the sand as analogue minus the TV suppression capacitors.

Ok, half penny's worth on soldering. Use heat sinks either side of the joint to minimise the risk of molten sleeper mess. Crocodile (aka Alligator) clips will work - you need up to four altogether. Small bulldog clips are even better. I'd pre-tin the track but that's just me. Use a low melting point solder as well. Although now frowned on lead based solder is much easier to work with. Have a decently powered iron as well, preferably temperature controlled. Get the heat into the locality quickly and make the joint. If you have to hang in there there's more risk of more of the heat flowing down the track to those nicely formed sleepers. Nickel plated track is not the easiest thing to solder so practice first on some scrap track. Have fun, it's a wonderful hobby.

Well done Simon. Hornby could/should have mentioned that in the instructions. You can snip the capacitor out of the power track easily, so I've heard. On 00 gauge anyway.

Hi Simon good video and thanks for the info. What’s your feelings about the new 7000 system just announced by HORNBY?

Lovely update Simon what’s the plans with the Tt layout then where is it going to be ? Take care Sion

Brilliant detective work Simon. Hornby is probably legally bound to include the RF suppression components in their circuit someplace. That doesn't mean we as modelers need too, unless the neighbors start callin g wanting us to stop all that interference with their ancient analog radio. ;-) Stop running your trains, I can't hear the BBC.

Are you aware that Hornby sell a Digital Power Track (TT8029) as opposed to the Power Connecting Track (TT8001) supplied with the starter sets? Do you suspect that this may have a similar ‘restrictor’ fitted? Like your videos 👍🏻

Does the problem come back it the power track is in the circuit but the power is coming from the soldered rails?

A bit annoying Hornby dont do a separate power connector for DCC, as most people who have run DCC for a while know that you can have problems if you run or setup a lot of manufacturers stuff if you use a standard DC power connector as they all have a suppressor in them!!

Hi Simon and readers. A gentle suggestion when doing any model wiring. Use different colours for the positive and negative feeds. It makes maintenance so much easier. If possible avoid using mains colour coded wiring and cables. It's not good practice to bypass the wiring standards, tempting as it often is. Looks like Hornby made a boo-boo with this one. The suppression really needed to be near the electrical noise source - ie in the locos and removable for DCC. Alternative in the power supply but that's electrically less satisfactory. I do realise that at this scale there's little room in the models for theoretical perfection. Anyway, Kudos Simon for more widely publishing the solution, I'm very attracted to TT120 - err, for my grandson of course!

what point motors are best for this system? need 42 for acton wells layout.

Do DCC sound !

Simon, now the next thing to do is to get rid of that Hornby joke of a DCC controller, and get yourself a real, good, DCC system, such as the NCE PowerCab like another KZfaq channel just did (Sam).

Always use flux when soldering, even if the solder has it as a core. It makes like so much easier. Concerning the power track, you could just flip the cover off of it and remove the RF suppressor. Also, if you want DCC sound why don't you just go down the HM7000 route, I am definitely going to.