It is the BEST

+eric eastlund Eric, you've got a point there. That non-cross flow cylinder head is the most power robbing component on the whole engine. The head's design gives a strong clue at just how long this engine has been around. You can name a piece of industrial equipment and this engine has probably been used to power it at some point. I would love to see what a canted valve, cross flow cyl. head would do to power gains. This way there would be no need to isolate the intake manifold runners from the exhaust headers. On something that you didn't refer to, Eric, but it's something that I wanted to add, Ford Racing actually used to sell an all aluminum "drag racing only" cyl. head for the 300 c.i. that didn't have any coolant passages in it. There was a disclaimer about its lack of coolant passages written in their catalog. This, in a way, kind of lessens the theory of dire consequences that can happen if an engine is run without coolant just for a moment. A drag racing engine is going to run for several minutes and many of those engines don't contain coolant. I wouldn't start up an engine "dry" if it was for, "breaking-in" the engine or a new camshaft, but just to run a broken in engine "dry" for a couple of minutes isn't going to hurt it. Don't forget that there is a form of coolant circulating in the engine. It's the engine's lube oil. While the Weber carbs is a really nice set-up, the 300 c.i. that was installed in the 96 F-150, (the last year it was used), had "mass air" and OBD II fuel injection. That system can be modified to kick out as much if not more than those Webers I'm certain. The fuel injection system used in 96 is the same type of system that the Mustang guys were modding and getting loads of power out of the 5.0 liter, (302c.i.) V8s.

it's a oil pressure.

How long can you run that without water and be safe?

Yeah , ya too right mate, you should "ALWAYS" run a freshly built engine wet!

marshalllhiepler Agreed! In an effort to hurry play,they ignore the fact,as you stated,portions of the heads/block will get WAY hotter than designed,with no way for heat control,easily in the first even say,20-30 seconds,let alone a 2-3 minute run.Why the hell you idiots think you can't run with no exhaust even a little bit without causing minute(unseen to the naked eye),damge to the valves/seats?Why the hell you think the heads warp while driving when the water pump goes out,in no time at all? I worked at Sunnen for over 12 years,and learned a LOT more than about engines than people who own shops and build shit that don't last,and a LOT more that I thought I knew! Look up Sunnen's Complete Cylinder Head and Engine Rebuilding Handbook by John G. Edwards ,and buy a clue.

AGREED!!!!

Dude... Its a 300, you could pretty much assemble and do whatever with it your not gona hurt it, not like that motors gona care about .00005 changes in sealing surfaces, its not a damn eurocar from the future with tolerances that make a 2L run at 300+horse... No this is american steel slapped together with no replacement for displacement, almost unstoppable. If its sealed up itll take just about anything, including a little heat on the stand

@@tomstutz2645, Yeah ... I totally get it, Tom. I mean ... you are the type of guy that is quick to say: "Awe, it'll be just fine." One day, your heart surgeon may say that to YOU. Like, in this situation: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/mM1zn8aY1J2vYp8.html