Holy cow 42 inches I’m in Virginia it doesn’t get that cold here we have some days at 0 to 10 our frost like is like 18 inches that was code for my metal garage.

He said he was in upstate New York

Good idea. lol

Most people want it now and as cheap as possible. I'm still waiting on someone to call and say I have a open budget so I want it built properly.

@@Conservativeblackman 🤣 right...

I'm from California originally with it's ridiculous codes, but in South Carolina 🤦🤦 OMG you want some videos of what not to do 🤣 just off the top of my head on a job I'm on, used drywall screws to install crown molding and caulked it with silicone so you can't paint it 😂

Sad, but true. And not just a low ball quote, but people who don't know what they are doing.

Real

Thanks Wingman

Lol yup I can imagine bud

The main problem here was they were not deep enough and no Sono tube was used but generally here they just have a footer or block under post at 48". I do agree that if deep enough you can pour around post with a Sono tube.

As a builfing designer, I'm very curious to know if an engineer was involved initially to design the footings. As you say to resist the upload forces of the wind.

used to be pretty common to use a mixer of dirt and cement ( dry) to support and anchor the poles which sat on a poured concrete pad. Has that changed?

Most the pole buildings built here have a concrete puck under the post and then backfilled with gravel. putting concrete around post will let the frost have something to grab and it will heave the post. We live in upstate New York so it might be different where the ground does not freeze like it does here?@@johneaton4364

The house was done way different than the garage so I know an engineer did not want that and this should not pass code where we live. @@kevinzep01

Thanks

Thanks Joe

2ft in Ohio. Unless you live up around lake Erie.

We have a 48" frost line here so we put a footing under the post 48" down and this is all clay under there at around 30 inches and below.

@@bondobuilt386 would be interesting to hear the story behind all this getting tore up. Who made the call? An inspector? I kinda doubt it.

Same here, also from Illinois (where we have a 42" frost line) and work in construction, and pouring concrete around supports like this is perfectly common and normal. The timbers do not move. Absolutely no idea what this guy is talking about.

@@ev6558 totally agree with you fellas this is some sort of sham, even if you put a concrete wall around part of the building just keep it separate, use a footing, don't anchor it to your poles or anything, tar paper or foam can do that good to go...I just dunno how this guy thinks the pole will not move as he thinks the concrete around it would move? by his own logic he put a sono pad beneath it then doesn't attach the pole to it above the frost line, doesn't wrap the pole nothing pushes soil right over it, why I think its BS, I've built pole building's in the worst conditions, the pac northwest on glacial till, boulders the size of beach balls to tennis balls.. all 4 seasons, easy 3 ft frost line, pour your concrete above the soil line, and go, anchor the pole to the concrete, the wood lasts way longer, no issues if anything moves it all moves at once, the pac NW is an extreme seismic area if this method was sketchy it wouldn't pass inspection. .. this guy makes no sense to me at all, I think he did it so he can easily push his wall up to the poles, why the poles are beneath the soil line is beyond me? why not build the wall anchor the pole to the top of the wall,. above the soil line, with a solid footing its good to go.. at least wrap those posts with tar paper, something.. like to see a real life demonstration of his logic, compared

The best part is the guy who's filming absolutely believes what he's saying..

You know we did. LOL

"Better SAfe than Sorry" :)

I’m in the Midwest, we have two safety meetings

@@donchristie420 Nice lol

Just an observation about "Safety". I come from one of the heaviest industries in North America and I will say that when so much emphasis is put on "Safety" it makes complacency a factor far worse than good habits and knowing your job could ever be compared to. I used to laugh about the Safety Geeks squealing about safety glasses, proper this and proper that until I realized how much harm it does to talk down to people in such a way. It turns them off to actual awareness, only to regret not using their common sense. I will say it gets entertaining at times hearing some of the outrageous stories that are obviously made up and proven otherwise by their own words.. Then again Darwin has some awards left to be handed out..

Except it works if you have skill. We've built 100 ft long buildings using string to kiss forms/framing. They're as straight and square as you're gonna get (1/8 off from corner to corner).

@@TheGuruStud With a line riding it, you just culdn't see the (convex) curve,

@@TheGuruStud It might work, but it takes a LOT more time, and its really easy to screw it up.

Yes in the south that is fine. Not where we live the frost will grab it and heave it up.

@@bondobuilt386 Right. I put up a garage in Allentown years ago that required a separate pour just for deep footings. (I didn't know why then and griped about it too!) The guy that did you wrong in the video was probably from the South and thought he knew better. Cheers.

For a residential project or just barn?

@@nextjin For a pole barn like this we might actually mix the concrete first. The dry dump is mostly for fence posts and decks.

Yes but these were not below frost line ours is 48". these were 24"

@@bondobuilt386 that was just lazy, our frost line is 4’+ here in New Hampshire, grew up near Erie, amazing that build wasn’t falling over already

@@kennethharman2779 probably would have shifted the first winter they lived in it.

Good idea with the straps I also thought that all thread drilled through with washers and nuts would hold it together. Or some kind of wall tie for panel forming.

If you pour a wall like this put some ties between the 2X10 boards to keep things from bowing.

@@bondobuilt386 OK, noted with thanks👍☺🇨🇦

Ground rot in casement and concrete is way worse. It's treated wood bugs won't get into it but the concrete the lie in the concrete will eat it up.

Thanks I do not know why they did that in New York with our frost level. Crazy

Hey, I'm not in a NY frost line state, actually I'm in NY South, lol South Carolina, but my question is strictly wanting to know the difference in why one cement pour is better than the previous? I understand heaving from frost, I just don't understand what you did that would make it different, wouldn't the tubs still push up? I understand the use of anchors because cement doesn't stick to wood, but the tubs, I haven't worked with them with understanding... I'm actually building thermal mass earth homes, and I'm so unconventional and outside the box, I depend on metric square foot weight for anchoring 😂 I use sand bags and used tires as load bearing walls right on the ground, maybe a 10 inch footer sub ground level as locked in start, but nothing as in depth of cement and rebar... Lots of contractors are amazed I can build a fire proof, earthquake proof, bullet proof, termite proof structure you can't destroy, you can try... Rubber encased steel belt, compacted dirt two foot plus thick, and bull fencing use as chicken wire on both sides holding 4 inches of cement mud finished walls... I don't do lumber framing anymore once I build my first earth home lol... But I'm interested in all building techniques, I have only been to NY once, on a 5 month run refirb of family dollar stores, Maine and Vermont were so cold I don't understand how you guys do it that's a 10-4 on nope 😂 Thanks for your response...

@@jeromegarcia5396 the bottom of the tubes sit below the frost line. So the frost won’t get underneath the tubes and lift poles. The frost doesn’t lift the tubes it rides up and down along the sides. That’s why it is Code to use tubes now. They used to let you auger a hole in the ground below the frost line and fill it with concrete. In some cases the frost Would lift the concrete because it wasn’t smooth as it is when you pour it in the tubes. Bondo Built actually fixed two problems. The original poles weren’t all the frost line, and it had clumps of concrete around it, which would’ve made the poles lift even more. The original builder could have used auger poles and extended them below. The frost line with a small footing underneath. What Bondo did was even better.

Longer poles…. Not auger poles. Talk to text lol.

@@howlandexcavating Ahhh... Got it... Makes complete sense now...

It'll be there forever. Just always make sure to be below the frost line....always

I don't like the wood in the ground at all but that is how they build these barn homes. I would have done a frost proof stem wall if I got involved sooner.

Thanks Bill

Im sure that helps.

Our frost line is 6-8 feet in Canada, I assume yours as well, 1/4 down crush gravel is what we use above the front line to prevent heaving.

Actually the concrete was under the post also but the real problem in our area is the frost would grab them big blobs of concrete and heave the post upwards in the winter when it froze and soil expanded. Thanks Jeremy. 👊

@@bondobuilt386 yes forsure.. I didn’t see it was under post.. but ya def a better footing setup way u doing it. Get r done ✅ 👊I’m up in northern Ontario so I hear ya on frost line

LMAO The keyboard warriors and safety monitors of KZfaq. 😀

Yup if frost was not an issue but it is where we live. LOL

Ya they are lucky. What a mess.

I dont want to be an armchair quarterback. I would tend to agree. Time will tell how long the brackets will last burried in the soil. . I would have recommended to cut off the posts and sit them on the brackets above grade. Lot of work. And dangerous.

Exactly! Here in Western Oregon where the ground is wet 250 days/year, I would never bury wood unless it’s a telephone pole or railroad tie and soaked in creosote. No pressure treated wood will survive more than 10 years here under the ground

Cooks did NOT do this. We checked all posts and frost protected the entire place with foam and burried it.

thank you 😀

Or it was never looked at for the garage part?

kzfaq.info/get/bejne/btCqfrN93rycg4k.html If you are going to dig it up do it like this video.

No not in the cold area I live.

Yes we compacted everything here.

Oh, now I see. They used poles that are too short! My posts were sunk at least 5ft below grade.

That is how it should be done.

Most the pole barns here they just put the pole 4' in the ground with a concrete disk or solid block under the pole and backfill with gravel. I think other areas are worried about termites but we do not have them.

The way you guys did it, with the horizontal rebar running through the posts, will more than sufficiently tie the posts to the curb. I see that you needed that curb system on the low side because of the slope down to the boat house. Overall an efficient design, to correct a BS first try from the the pole barn builder.