John Molberg I

John: ... or just read other people's comments. I know what you mean.

Cindy: What did you indicate?

HA !!! The internet. The magic of the world at their fingertips and eye holes. Yet, the patience of "sh*t their pants" toddlers. Great video, man. I have a plywood floor, 24' by 24', hip roof building. Going to jack it up, to pour a concrete slab. It's currently pier and beam .. .. so I do have some work ahead. My jack points will all be outside the structure. .. but your video helped immensely. Thanks so much, for posting !!!!

I just came across this video as I ponder on my shed I will be lifting. You can tell this process has been well thought out. Hell ya! Obviously this worked but if it hadn't just imagine what else he would have learned. Great job on pointing out the mistakes in the people commenting. You can not google experience you have to earn that!

Wow! That is the best reply to date! I am thrilled this video was of use to you. If you have any pictures or video, please post.

Don't know how in this thread. But if, in Facebook, you search for Pierre Grégoire in La Malbaie you will find a few photos. I will leave them for a few short weeks.

I'm in exactly the same boat: I have a sunken corner of my garage that needs correcting. I'll be applying some of these techniques.

car siding = tongue and groove aka shiplap for those wondering you were smart to use masonry units to protect against said flooding, should have asked your insurance adjuster for more money for foundation slab improvements to get it raised out of floods harm

I know your comment was 2 years ago, but you are correct. Was studying mechanical engineering at the time of the collapse and very similar to this hinge on the pony wall. However I believe the poster eliminated this scenario with full length studs in certain areas.

I always read the expert's in the comment section on how "they" say it should be done. And most don't have a clue and just throwing out stupid opinions. Your comment sir is exactly what this section is intended for: "use dishwash fluid for lubrication"! Brilliant and helpful comment. Thank You.

61spindrift I know what you mean! My dad used to be in demolition & I was brought up around old building demo & construction. The first time I heard of the dishwash liquid was when a 3000 ton building was moved in my city. The engineers had a situation trying to slide the building on rails and had tried the greases, oils & high-tech ptfe lubricants but were stumped by the sheer load. One of the experienced contractors suggested he pop into the supermarket next door (literally next door) and get the solution they always use - Palmolive dishwashing liquid (similar to Fairy Liquid). Worked a treat and averted a huge delay. This a is good summary of that move but it doesn't mention the liquid. I've read about it in another story. (They also mention the 5000 ton hotel shift in New York 1888.) i.stuff.co.nz/dominion-post/news/wellington/9054381/Training-all-eyes-on-shifting-a-hotel

The method should work. As long as you reinforce the structure a bit, those bottle jacks will lift an incredible amount of weight. You could do three cross beams to be safe. You can order custom LVL beams in whatever size you want. Since I did this, I came up with all sorts of improvements. For example, you could lift from the outside.... you could lift off the roof.... you could use an automotive 4 post lift.... So many options. It's not as scary as it seems.

I'm currently doing this. any resources (videos, books, websites) you recommend?

@@asalborn Sorry, no resources as I did it all with the experience garnered over the years working with my family and spending 3 years building houses with a local builder.

Terrific. You would be well served to place your stacks outside of the structure and then you can have lots of room inside to pour a floor.

@@johnniemo I'm actually planning on moving the shed via rollers and tractor (slowly, but surely), pour a pad large enough for a lean-to addition, and roll the shed back onto said pad. My main purpose for raising the shed is so I can extend the lean-to addition far enough to almost double my interior shed space - i.e the lean-to addition will be framed in. I live in Michigan and need a steeper pitch due to snow rating. Within reason, I figure the higher I can lift the existing shed the further I can extend the lean-to with the appropriate pitch. I intend to discuss my plans with a legitimate contractor I've know for some time before I go through with it.

Watch my garage tour video. I found some unique storage solutions that could be useful. But clean, it is not.....

Wayne Doherty Would need a day long party with the amplifiers up to 11 to "raise the roof" long enough.

Albert Moyeskin q

@@Mooseknucklesxx What is "q"? Why are people typing baby talk?

That's great. You already know what to do. I was inspried by a guy who did the same thing as you and for the same reason.

lol why wouldn't you fixed the drainage issue first , concrete blocks aren't waterproof so you're not fixing any problems

@@Hard_Right I have fixed drainage issues, but that doesn’t fix the garage sitting on a slab that is dead nuts flush with the dirt. The slab doesn’t even stick up 1-2 inches. Most slabs stick up higher than the length of your grass, this one did not. The siding even went all the way down below the grass line, when weed whacking it would hit the siding. Yes proper drainage gets rid of excess water, but it has to get on the ground first doesn’t it? Which is where the sill plates were. Even with drainage the wood would get wet. The second issue I wanted to remedy was the low ceiling height which is why I raised it. Your blocks not being waterproof example doesn’t matter because they do work for keeping the wood above any possible water, the blocks aren’t going to rot and don’t let water into the garage because there at the surface not below ground. My garage slab sits so low it’s “at grade” not above at all. It was a more unique situation than most and raising it was a permanent remedy than trusting drainage methods alone. Levies,pumps,pipes,ditches,damns work until they don’t. Drainage alone isn’t and shouldn’t be the only method of preventing water damage.

dpeagles 👷🏼👷🏼👷🏾👷🏻

See

Thanks Wes. You've pretty much capture my experience of the project. 4 years in and I don't even have any cracked drywall. So it must be solid.

Was looking at Crane as well, but lifting entire structure would be a problem, and lifting entire roof, I’ve seen them buckle. The crane concept just seems too risky. I have several month to prepare for my barn/garage lift and I think I’ll use two rented forklifts instead. It’s impressive how slow but powerful and most importantly, I’ll be raising a full story, in my case 9’.

Thanks! Hardly easy. It is 2 years later and I'm still not done all the finishing. I will post another video once everything is complete.

Talk to a few engineers/architects and see what they come up with for a solution to your "dilemma", I am sure something is possible if not directly attached to the house structure, unless its firmly attached to the house directly then there is nothing that can likely be done without remodeling.

Actually, the process for a whole house is somewhat simpler. "Simpler" meaning no bracing required and it's just lifting. Just need 10 times the number of jacks and a whole lot more insurance.

Thanks Bob for that insight. Good information here. Although not mentioned in my video, I did the entire permitting process on this build which included hiring an engineer and getting a city inspector. I got a lot of varying opinions on the lift, but nothing consistent. In the end, I did what the engineer asked, and the city inspector said "we don't do it that way anymore" but he signed it anyways. I have no concern on the strength of the structure as it exists now... but I did go above and beyond what was asked by both the engineer and the inspector.

"the city inspector said 'we don't do it that way anymore'" What way DO they do it?

Bob Mccann great question! I spoke to the city building department about ten times throughout the build process and they gave me an assortment of answers. It became clear to me that each and every inspector has a different opinion. In the end I consulted the engineer and he suggested this approach. I added the sistered studs as I felt they were needed. The inspector didn't give me any insights other than said "we dont do it this way anymore". I was satisfied with my work so I didn't probe him. I was just happy to pass inspection.

One does what the prefer and fits their budget at hand or in mind of what they want to spend in all. No wrong way except a truly unsafe method.

Others have done this and ultimately inspired me to do mine too. If you want to leave it in the air long enough to build a masonry wall, you can do that. Here is a guy with the same problem you have. www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=371545

5 years now and she's holding strong. Not even cracks in the drywall. So I'd say it was effective.

Boiling the frog.... I like it. The guy who originally inspired me also put down concrete block as well and for the same reason. So long as it is stable, you can leave it there for a long time while you lay the wall. With the price of everything these days, keeping perfectly good trusses is worth it.

​@@johnniemo Studs were $7.50 ea here recently down to $6.50 hopefully even more soon so I can commit to the project. In the meantime, it's fun to play in CAD & Excel bean counting the project down to every nut bolt & board.

@@clutch5sp989 I modelled my entire garage in sketchup prior to the build. It was painful, but certainly was helpful for doing permit drawings, purchasing decisions, and to get an overall feel for the space. I still go back to that model regularly to find studs, or test fit things. I recently made a video about a paint booth and I built it entirely in sketchup before I built the real thing. It's on my channel somewhere.

Thanks Bob. Creating a masonry wall is an excellent way to secure the base of the wall as well as to prevent water damage. If I had the time and patience I would have gone this way too. I just really didn't require the water protection.

WHile not necessary to remove windows, its better than then winding up getting cracked and needing repair in the even the building racked enough to cause said damage, But to each their own, and removing the doors also allow for quicker escape if something in the lifting stage failed.

How did you attach the new block wall to the existing foundation? Maybe that is not a hinge point?

I bet most older houses were built a lot more solidly than the garbage that passes for 'code' these days. A bunch of chipboard and planks that aren't even held by real nails, and the designs are all about looks and speed of construction. One day there is going to be a big disaster around here, and the result will be devastation.

Very true! I expanded from 24 x 32 to 24 x 40. Like a gas, my contents quickly filled the extra space.

A buddy of mine put in TWO additional buildings because he just kept acquiring stuff. He suggested "Think of how big you need, then double it. You MAY get close then."

Pouring is an option. It obviously would take longer. You would probably need to anchor in some rebar to the slab too. It would take several days, but entirely do-able. I know how to do wood so I stick with it. It's relatively dry here too, so wood lasts a long time, particularly pressure treated (which I used for the base plate)

It was at least ten inches.

Calgary to be exact. No earthquake related code requirements.

I think I've answered this a few times. But basically I needed the higher door opening to fit my boat in, so that was the primary reason. In the end, I think I disproportionally weighted that requirement. Either way would work. As a side benefit, having my windows higher up has been nice. It gets the sun in better in the winter, and it allows the walls to be more useable for "garage stuff". In one of my comments here somewhere I pondering using my 4 post lift to lift the roof. That would have been a neat video.

You really need someone local to review your project. However here are some pointers: Firstly, determine how your roof is supported. Is it like mind and the trusses place the roof support on the side walls? If so, that is your lift point. Secondly, if you want to replace the floor you either need to lift from the outside of the building (and ruin your stucco) or you need to lift from the inside as I did, but then pour your stub walls of concrete instead of wood. You'll also need to pour the footings. Once that is all done you can fill the inside and add a new floor if you wish. The only things I would be concerned about is the weight of that roof. Concrete tile will weigh a lot. However I think my process will work for you. Just verify how that roof is built.

Thanks for your quick reply. My roof was built the way you did with wood planks spanning the trusses already. It was hand built by my framers who built my house, so it was built very solid with all the trusses and braces already. I was the one actually put on the roof tiles, as the roofer never returned to complete. I think your way of supporting the stud walls and lifting will work. The trick is to hold the shed in place while I pour the footings. What is the size of jack lift that you used to lift the garage? Since the shed is only 10x10, I would not use laminating beam to do the lifting like you. I would use multiple 2x8's to lift, and I hope it will work. I plan to lift from the inside as space is limited from the outside, and I want to fix the outside at the same time. The inside flooring can be poured later on. Do you think using concrete blocks to hold the walls and then pour the footings with them inside proper, as I do not have to worry about wood rotting inside concrete or have to remove them? Thanks.

Yes. There is a guy on the Garage Journal who did this exactly. www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=272678&highlight=ainsley I think you will be fine with this approach. I think a single 2x10 would be enough for you. Maybe a pair across the middle (where I had the laminated beam) just to give you a solid jack point. Also I suggest holding it up using cinder blocks instead of 4x6. The 4x6 is not all that stable if you need to leave it up a while.

Great suggestion. Maybe I will build the footing using cinder blocks, as one layer will be good for my purpose, and save mixing lots of concrete as the shed is raised, other than masonry cement for blocks. I will get ready mix later for outside and inside floor when I have the footings completed. Thanks for your help. P.S. I will look at your other projects later. If you need any suggestions on home automation, let me know as I have done quite a bit on them. My email is jy1999@telus.net.

William Biggs yes and no. I got the idea from a member on the Garage Journal. He followed this process for a smaller garage. I also found a single youtube video of someone lifting a barn-like structure. Lastly my brother in law had a building moved by professionals and he described a similar method. In the end I took from all the prior ideas and adjusted it to fit my garage.

Wow. Congratulations!

The 2x10's on the walls, and all the major beams were attached with GRK R4 4" screws. They are a very strong structural screw rated at about 700lbs shear strength. Screw them in at a slightl upward angle. Most of the smaller braces were just whatever screws I had around. You want to use screws so they are easier to remove later. For any really critical points I used GRK 5 1.4" RSS screws (basically lags).

I did answer this a couple times early on, but since you tried to find the answer, I'll give you a pass :) Simply put - I don't have a good reason. I had some minor reasons that in retrospect were probably less imperative than I thought in the beginning. I have never built an entire building before, so I didn't have a good appreciation for which parts were hard and which were easy. That somewhat skewed my decision making. Either way, here are my factors: 1) I needed the garage to remain functional throughout. From the time I stripped out the interior (June) until the time I had the lift done (September) until I had the exterior complete (November) was a very long time. Throughout I need a functional workshop, plus parking. So I tended to bias towards a technique which kept everything useable. If you were going to just lift the roof itself, that would require expansive scaffolding and I didn't have the space for it. 2) I wanted the garage door to be bigger. I had hoped by lifting 21" (the height of a single garage panel) I could just slap a new panel on the door, some stronger springs, and be done. It didn't work out that way. 3) I felt that lifting from the bottom as opposed to the top, is how the structure is intended to bear weight. I knew if I lifted it evenly enough, this would be safe. Lifting from 8' to 10' in the air would be very precarious. In short, I think it is a wash. Either way requires sistering the studs (meaning drywall removal), and either way requires a lot of blocking and reinforcement. One idea I had later was to use the 4 post lift to lift the roof. This would likely work pretty good. There is another video on KZfaq with some guys doing exactly that, but with a 2 poster.

Thanks for the explination! All's well that ends well. My buddy wants to do this and I was just interested why you chose to do it one way over another. I think what we're going to do is lift the roof up one side at a time using a bottle jack on a tall 4x4 braced to the wall.

You may want to pin this comment so it shows up first among the other comments. Edit; Oh you already pinned a comment.

Anthony, try raising only the roof on a post frame/pole building structure, would be highly and very impractical. But this type of balloon or platform framing depends on size and design.

Llia Olsen that would allow for servicing but not for permanent 3 car parking. I think it is a neat idea though and I actually wouldn't mind it. The challenge is that you need to build in a staircase to get underneath. That would take up a lot of space in the garage. You may also need to build in a drain.

This is an excellent approach. If my roof line was 90 degrees perpendicular, this would have been ideal. Another approach is to use a ridge beam. I know someone who did that and got the same useable space.

Thanks for the comments. I had four identical bottle jacks, 20 ton, and I got them from Canadian Tire on sale for $20 each :) We tried lifting all 4 at the same time and the building started to oscillate too much. It was much safer with half the building on firm blocking and the other side lifting in unison. I suggest going up in 2" increments. We tried 4" and had some slipping.

like i said manual unison is a bit tricky as well as you found out and even the experienced professionals have their own similar issues in windy conditions thus why you see them using standard cribbing side and place a new upper layer of each stack in stages or steps. glad you made out well and safe and the building is doing well since the endeavor and it is probably more work and as much headache if you went the other way just lifting the roof and then raising the door header to height, like I said a few times you already seen its ones choice and what they can and are willing to afford to do

He could probably have but also his budget or finance may have said otherwise, then against it is also preference over cost in many cases. If owned a balloon/platform framed garage. I money was no object then I would just knock it down and rebuild using post frame using brackets for footer slab or precast concrete permacolumns in the soil and go with taller than may need walls. never such a thing as too small or tall, compared to too low or small in interior dimensions. Unless you already have a limited as is building space determining your square foot/meter footprint. Then again If someone needed such a building size they would be welcome to buy it from me and either take apart to managle pieces for transport rather than move it entirely intact unless money was no concern to them for such cost of said transport or limitations along the roads for it to be moved that way depending on relocation spot.

I would think that solid concrete would still have a hinge point (well, line) because of the joint between the new and existing concrete.

@@scottwillis5434 I don't even honestly remember what this video is about other than the title. 4 years ago 🤣

Calgary, Alberta. I got drawings for the entire build which was primarily the carport, but it includes the slab as well as the lift. I talked to the city at least five times before the lift and then obviously had an inspection once the entire project was built.

I looked at both options. Either would work. In the end two things swayed me (rightly or wrongly) the first is that it is a lot harder to execute a lift from 8 feet in the air to ten feet. The second is that I wanted a larger garage door opening in the process. As such I chose to lift the exact height of a garage door panel (21") In retrospect, I think lifting the roof would be easier if you wanted to leave the walls intact.

dubyajayyo not sure I know what you mean by stem wall.

Well the cost to lift wasnt bad. As I noted about $500 CAD. Then add another $500 to $1000 to refinish. You would also potentially need a new garage door if you followed my method.

I theorized about this a lot. The advantage to lifting only the roof is obviously less work and less weight. The reason I lifted the entire structure was because I wanted a bigger garage door. In retrospect, enlarging the garage door would have been FAR easier. Detaching and lifting the roof would be pretty easy to do. If you were doing all this to buy a four post lift, then buy the lift first and use it to lift the roof.

Thanks for the input..

I have seen a owner use their four post with lifting crib frame raise their roof and walls to get a taller door opening alone without having to cut into and raise the header itself, the extra interior height was an added benefit.

Around here every home is built with wood on concrete. And yes it's fairly arid here. The old sill was fine after 30 years as you can see. 21" came from the panel width of a new garage door. I actually wish I had lifted to 24" for the vehicle lift.

Yes 6x4" posts cut to a manageable size. I would recommend something more sturdy if you want to go higher.

Thank You....!

look up box cribbing timbers, you are good for 4x4 or 6x6 or even 4x6 , long length allows for four strong points and a more stable support than just one beam at each stack to rest the lifting beams on which is why professional use it so often, but i give him credit for having his come down despite what he had at hand

Great question. Simple answer is that I have no regrets with the project. It is holding up perfectly well. The longer answer is it "depends". If the garage is already drywalled and insulated, that changes the work load. It also depends how much "stuff" is attached to the walls. Also depends if you want to replace the garage door with a taller one. Also depends how the garage is anchored to the floor. Also depends how well the roof is anchored to the walls. I'd weigh all these things. In the case of my project, I think the approach I took was the best one (although it's a close call)

@@johnniemo thnx! I really appreciate the reply. By the way, Awesome job!

Yet another to assume such connection would be weak, just look at post frame or as it is traditionally known as pole building framing with nail laminated timbers, its plenty strong despite just through bolted as shown but adding a few nails between also helps strengthen said pony wall. It is all a matter of budget and time one wants to spend using either wood framing or building a more expensive though not often more durable against the elements if properly reinforced masonry pony wall.

What prevents a hinge point where the new concrete meets the old concrete?

I would think a shed would be easier. Shouldn't have any issue. So you are trying to raise the floor? Is it a water ingress issue?

@@johnniemo No I think the slab would break up. I figure it would be easier to raise the structure on it put block under then poor a floor on top of the existing slab. Yes, we are in Texas and Imelda stalled on top of us and we ended up with about 7" of water in the shed. Didnt even happen with the hurricane a couple years prior, but they have built houses next to us on a higher grade forcing the water to move on to our lot. The shed is rectangular with a gable ended roof but the roof to the end of the front porch is almost like a lean two supported by 4 post. So we figured we could brace up the front roof to the frame, brace up the frame cut the seal plate bolts, jack it up, rebar and concrete some block to the existing slab under the bottom plate all the way around, use a two by 12 and cover the garage door opening and front porch door opening, then re-pour the floor inside the blocking after reinforcing with rebar, then just put steps into it from the porch area and gravel out a grade to the garage door for lawn mower access etc..

@@he-manmasteroftheuniverse2501 ok. I didn't mean lifting the slab... just that you wanted a higher floor. You just have to be mindful that water won't get under the slab and freeze it. I know someone else who did your approach. (he filled it with gravel first to drain). However he had all sorts of issues. Since you are in Texas and freezing isn't an issue, I think you'll be okay. Just remember that any water getting in needs a way to get out, regardless where you happen to have your floor.

@@johnniemo Hmmm. Yeah I didnt consider that. Do you think mortaring the joint where the block meets the slab would keep the water out? Or have any suggestions?

@@johnniemo I wonder if cutting a channel in the exiting concrete, before the block, on the inside of the space, before pouring the new concrete, would keep water moving through mortar from getting between the two slabs.....

Great question. We started by lifting 4" per side, however at one point the garage "slid" a few inches. It was terrifying. After that we ensured there was never more than 2" differential from side to side. So start at -2, then go to +2 and alternate. After 4 years the structure is completely solid. Drywall hasn't even cracked. I have another video showing the finished product.

@@johnniemo Very good; Two inches (-2, 0, +2, brace at +2"). The "slide" must have made for a nervous moment. Thanks again.

Dust in the wind that is not a bad idea for strength. I did not do that but you could.

I'm not sure if you HAVE to used treated lumber for the sill plate. I did actually do that, although it may not be totally obvious. My wife is still upset about my project, so I doubt going to Red Deer to do another is high on her list of priorities :)

When if you already have not yet, want to do aside from how he did most properly but not completely safe despite he as lucky is cross brace the main lifting beams to reduce any chance of flexing which is why you see house lifters use cross beams that the main beams are placed under. all you need is three pieces of great length, two across and one diagonal so you have a truss brace, nail them to from opposite side of beam instead of inside which would allow the nail to pull out. you may still want to brace the corners to the main beams just to keep it squared up and also support the one "solid" end wall and overhead doorway opening from also flexing on you with similar cross bracing, simple smooth nails would suffice for the braces Hop this helps you in your endeavor if you already have not lifted yours

Lawmtho I disconnected the service prior to lifting. Since I was elongating the garage it was easy to relocate. In the end I had to re-run the gas line (something to be mindful of) so I trenched anyways. Entirely new service was installed with 12 circuits.

I did address that somewhere in the comments. In short, I wanted the garage door to be taller, and this seemed like the way to achieve that. In retrospect I think I put too much emphasis on that and there were other ways to enlarge the door.