I made 3 videos on fixing this that makes this repair easy. Starting in the inside of the truck, passenger side foot well, pull the black hose in the passenger foot well hard and pull it into the cabin/through the fire wall and pull hard to disconnect it from the check valve behind the firewall, then get a roll of 5/32 hose and start pushing it through the hole till it comes out under the truck then run it up and through the engine bay and connect it to the original vacuum hose for the vent system, it’s a red hose above the ac system stuff there under the hood on passenger side up by the cowling. Then use a dorman 47076 vacuum canister that has a built in check valve, put it in the passenger foot well (inside the truck) bolt it down to existing stud (you’ll need a 6mm x 1.0 nut), and plug in your two vacuum lines and you're done. I can fix these now in about 20 minutes after years of trying different things. Hope it helps.

3:25 The music was timed well with his commentary.

Ran mine to the sheet metal on the passenger fender area in the cab. New tank and check valve

This is EXACTLY whats happening in my 98 Durango I just bought. Accelerate a little hard, and the floor or vent switches to defrost. Let off accelerator a little and it switches back to floor or vent

Good stuff. I didn't know that's what was up. Problem solved.

I have a 98 e 150 5.4 engine with no ac coming from the vents, there is a little air but not cold at all

I just bypassed the vacuum reservoir that was bad and didn't install one at all. Seems fine

What's the correct size hose? I just bought some 5/32" Hope it fits

I have a 88 ford f-250 w/the 5.8l (w 351) efi and there is a vacuum line that comes off the vac.tree on top of the intake that is plugged with a spark plug I bought this truck recently and I thought it would b easy to figure out boy was I wrong . the vacuum diagram does not show where any of these hoses go and no one talks about my year truck or engine together can anyone help me find where it goes. it's larger like the one that goes to the break asst.and goes to the same side of engine

Could this cause my Ford van to run rough? My van runs rough, but it will idle. I put it on the computer and it came back as vacuum leak code.

They're not called solenoids they're called 'vacuum motors'.....Most people, myself included, have done these repairs and CHOOSE not to use a vacuum storage container and a check valve. The loss of vacuum you allude to is very short lived and really isn't worth the effort. Additionally, most Econolines (depends on the year) don't have the check valve where you show it, it's located below the blower motor where it's completely inaccessible.

Dorman 47076 is the BIG BALL reservoir you showed NOT TO USE ???

Sounds like 96.9, 93.7, or the best 98.5ksfm #IAm98Rock

ok ac will not go to high and there is no air goung to defroster at all.allready changed the resistor, tje blowerr motor, the switch now what???? back ac blows verry little

Why don't you people just buy the Valve and Vacuum booster. You don't have to remove the old one. Unless you want to spend 7 hours getting at it. Just mount the new one under the Battery Tray. Route the hose. Install Valve. Done.. No drilling holes in the dog house. etc...

No no heat is death. Haiyaa the person who did that failure. Uncle roger could've done better and he's a comedian. 🤣✌️

I just went ahead and sold my van...damn

Veehicle

NOT helpful if ya don't show the rest of the repair....... bummer