Thanks for watching!

Glad you liked it!

Glad you liked it.

You're welcome! Yes, I work on Tanfos all the time too - when it comes to that area, they are pretty much the same as CZs. Only real difference in the DA operation between the 2 is really on the trigger bar spring and main spring systems - those are different between Tanfos and CZs.

thank you!

Yes, I've seen this before. Not very often in my experience though. If your frame has marks on that area, then it's worth to take a look and perhaps shorten the disco hook a bit to smooth it out. Before doing so, I would measure your after-market disco and make sure it is indeed a bit longer on the hook area than the one you had before.

Thank you!

Glad it helped

That's great to hear! That's exactly the process I went through once as well. You have to do some fitting to make it work, but you can get some good results from it.

thank you!

Those are cheap 3D printed stands... I can print one for you at cost - Find me in IG.

Thank you my friend!

Thank you! This is not my full time job, so I will be fine if others learn the tips and tricks here and I lose their business with that - I will be also happy if this encourage others to start their own business at some point... I would just be disappointed if anybody loses their business because of it (that isn't my intent at all :))

Yeah... I don't like the idea of using brass on a part that can wear out over time. And the disco is quite a critical part of the gun's operation in double action.

In terms of what you can use everything is game here - A dremel, a file etc. It's more about your experience and ability to do so without screwing up :). If you're not experienced on it, I would stay away from power tools such as a Dremel. Reason is that it's easier to make mistakes with them. I've used a Dremel to simply speed up the process in the beginning if I have a lot of material to remove... And then either a file or sand stones. Start with lower grits (200 - 400) and move up (600 - 800) as you get closer to reach the fit needed. The word of advice is "patience". Take your time: 1. Try 2. adjust/work 3. Repeat - until you get there. You win nothing on trying to do anything, when it comes to fitting/tuning, in a hurry.

Thanks a lot for your guidance! I will follow your exact instructions and will not use dremel this time. I will also probably get a caliper instead to make sure I can see the progress while working my way in. Please consider making a video for begginers some time in the future, since that would boost up that many people's confidence on getting their hands on it :)

Give GCW a call - they do have different discos - I believe one of their models is more of a drop in. The thing with the drop-in models is that you won't be able to have the biggest benefit out of it. In order to have the maximum benefit, they need to be fitted.

Springs are really a function of how you play with the gun, the loads you will be using and how much you want to trade off reliability by performance..

I can share what I see the most in CZs DA/SA for competition, but that's just as a reference for you and not something that will be necessarily ideal for you: Main springs will vary from 13lb (heaviest said) to 8.5lb (lightest) - And then you also have the fact that they are not identical between different vendors - Meaning a 13lb from CGW, and 13lb from CZC are not exact the same thing. For recoil, it will vary from 9lb (lightest) to 12lb (heaviest) - Here you really have to find out what works for your load. And also considering whether or not you have optics, so you also want to protect it a bit and not go too light regardless of your load.

Thanks for the detailed info.

I thought of that once, but never tried it. The issue I anticipate with that is that the trigger bar must still slide through that disco's surface when hammer is cocked. So a set screw there could take all the smoothness away.

Cheers mate! Thanks!

May i ask Another question if you don't mind😅, what's your idea/opinion about grinding off the half cock notch on the hammer? Mine is a duty firearm which i prefer to carry with no chamber load. I feel that during slow trigger pull, the sear is catching on the half cock notch a little bit. I read some forums regarding the same issue and some of them suggest to grind off the half cock notch. Thanks for the help!

@@johnrobertbala4291 I wouldn't do it. The half cock notch is a safety feature. By grinding it you will remove the ability of the hammer being stopped before hitting the firing pin in case it disengages from the sear by accident somehow.

Sorry, I don't think I quite understand what are you trying to achieve. You want to have Double Action Only pistol? Meaning, you want to disable the Single Action operation completely?

@@czarmorer Yes. Only double action. A rolling feel with feedback and some travel but no staging.

The pre-travel set screw is solely to reduce/eliminate the slack in double action when the trigger is 100% forward (hammer down). The pre-travel in that position exists due to the room the trigger bar has to move back between moving away from the "hook" face of the disco and start touching the "edge" of the disco, and then pushing the hammer back. It's possible that, for some reason, the geometry on your trigger along with the shape of disco, ended up with a minimum room between those 2 positions - In which case there is no problem there - the side-effect is what you noticed, meaning you don't really need a pre-travel set screw, since the take up is already minimum.

Thanks for the reply and I will say that you are the most detail oriented CZ tech I've come across on KZfaq or anywhere else...and that is why I subscribed to your channel (which is something I haven't done much of). I don't know why my trigger's creep was reduced to about 4mm from more than twice that with the SRD. I installed the "old style" trigger before installing and fitting the SRD but everything seems to have meshed well. My next step is of course the range to see how it runs.@@czarmorer

@@user-yk1br4sc6p thank you! I appreciate the feedback, and knowing that it's been helpful will keep me going

The trigger mechanism in 1911, as you pointed out, is quite different to the one in CZ75/shadow/shadow 2 and the terminology used is somewhat misleading and problematic. The term "disconnector/interrupter" for the part in CZ (and it's clones) is IMHO a misnomer. It would be more appropriate to call it "double-action sear / trigger pre-tensioner" (as it fulfills both roles) but it doesn't really "disconnect" anything in the trigger mechanism. If you remove the "disconnector" in a CZ, you lose double action mode and your pistol becomes SAO with a very long pre-travel. Basically, the trigger breaks in the same position as before, but when you release it, it returns to a position it normally would in DA. Then, when you pull it again, you have the same travel you would have in DA before, but with a very light pull (since you only need to overcome the force of trigger return spring) up to the point where you hit the SA sear. This pre-travel can be eliminated by installing a SA-only trigger shoe. In a 1911 the part called "the disconnector" works quite differently. When the gun is in battery, the disconnector sits between the trigger bar and the sear and acts as an "interface". As you pull the trigger, the trigger bar moves backwards (the pre-travel) until it hits the disconnector, which in turn, pushes on the sear. When the sear gets pushed far enough, it disengages from the hammer notch, the hammer falls and the gun fires. As the slide moves backwards, the disconnector gets pushed down and it falls underneath the trigger bar thus DISCONNECTING the trigger bar from the sear. The sear is then pushed by the sear spring back to its resting position and, as the slide moves forward, the hammer notch re-engages with the sear. The disconnector remains situated underneath the trigger bar until the trigger is released far enough to allow the disconnector to travel back upwards and between the trigger bar and the sear thus resetting the whole mechanism. Removing the disconnector in a 1911/2011 gun wil completely disable the trigger mechanism, making the gun impossible to fire. In CZ 75 - type action, the real "disconnector" is the trigger bar itself - after a shot is fired, the slide moves backwards, causing the trigger bar to tilt down and fall under the sear. This allows the sear to reset and the trigger must be released far enough to enable the trigger bar to move back up and in front of the sear. TL;DR: removing the disconnector from a 1911 will make the gun inoperable.

@@niznikb Great explanation! Very thorough and to the point - thank you!

@@niznikbthank you, man!