@@herminigildodelacruzjr1752 I don't know the answer to that.

@@czarmorer sir as i have said you are a big help to everyone with a cz hand gun and thanks for sharing your expertise may your channel grow a thousand fold

@@SpidiFreestyle I would love to try one out.

I will ask the Czechmate's owner and reply to you here with what I get.

@@tekpowertactical @cz_armorer on Instagram

The phone's mic does that :( It doesn't sound anything like that when you're next to the gun :)

@@czarmorer got ya it sounds pretty cool tho lol 😂

Great, glad it helps you - The mag release button system is exactly the same on all the TS series. About the compensator - You will not find it anywhere because the only after-market vendor who produced one (Sebo Weapons) has discontinued it. So maybe do contact them (I did), and if there are enough people asking perhaps they decide to make it again. They had both a titanium and steel options with 5 chambers, but 3 on top and 2 lateral ones. They are both better options than the original comp.

Target audience I think is those who won’t train. Thumbing the hammer to enter DA thousands of times over the course of training is simply a terrible option.

I can't speak for CZ and what was their target audience - I can say though that for the time I had one I used as my EDC and I did not experiment the issues you're bringing up - on the contrary, it felt pretty good to me - The safety works well for me, and I couldn't care less about the lack of a decoker, however I'm very familiar with the platform and shot CZs in competition all the time, so maybe it felt good to me because of that - I can't say how it would feel for somebody not as familiar - And then maybe CZ is appealing to their own crowd with it... who knows? :)

No, it was a drop-in.

Thank you!

@@drv1776 thank you for saying that. I'm happy to know it's been helpful.

Yes, the starter punch will help start moving the pin out, then you use a 1/16 punch do finish driving it out

@@czarmorer worked perfectly

Not a way to guarantee this by simply installing the parts. An experienced gunsmith should be able to make it happen though.

You can play with main springs of different weights, or you can try replacing the hammer/sear pair by after-market options. But the most effective way to work that out is perhaps working on out the geometry between sear and hammer - I DO NOT recommend anybody trying this if they don't know exactly what they are doing though. For the shorter reset, sometimes is as simple as adjusting your post-travel set screw down to the limit... If that doesn't do it, you can try some of the after-market options for short-reset and reach reduction (a different trigger shoe can help).

Hi, I’m not an armorer but you could try the trigger adjustments for pre-travel and over travel. I had to adjust mine because there wasn’t an obvious reset. It also gave it a little better feel of a wall too. Good luck, Take care, Be safe.

My name isn't Ben, but you asked this same question in the video showing the difference between the Tanfo Stock 2 and a CZ Shadow 2 and I responded to you there. Let me know if you still have a question about it.

@@czarmorer thanks! I appreciate!🙏🏻👍🏻

Right - The front sight pin is actually what keeps the bushing locked in place as well. So just put the pin back and you will be good to go. If you, otherwise, go shoot it without the pin, it will be just a matter of a few rounds until your bushing flies away from the gun following the bullet :)

@@czarmorerthanks i appreciate your help! Just an other question in some research there are people saying that the front sight gives more retention with the pin than just the pin, is it true? And with just the pin doesn’t affect the accuracy? Thank your videos really help me🔥🔥

@@erickkim3534 Yes, it makes sense because with the front sight in place there is more friction with the pin and therefore more retention. However that pin goes in pretty tight even without the sight. If you feel like being extra-safe, and you don't tihnk you will use your front sight again for anything else, you can just either file it flat and replace it on the slide, or just buy a front sight delete - The cost is the same as new front sight though, so I would just file it down and buy one if I ever need it again :)

@@czarmorer thanks! Appreciate you help!🔥👍🏻

Thank you! It's true the Tanfo Stock 2 came out first, but do you think it's fair to say Tanfo adopted the CZ-75 platform and bult their guns on top of it from the 80's on?

Glad you found them informative

The grease will go away... It's really just to help pushing it in. It won't stay there..

@@czarmorer The grease bit will, the lithium compound gets dry like chalk. Is it so tight it all gets scrapped off? On the other hand it doesn't get as hot as some mufflers and there are different kinds of lithium grease. I was just curious.

That "rolling" feel is pretty characteristic of CZs and it has to do with how the sear and hammer are matching each other. You can actually make by polishing if you don't know exactly what to work on. What you can try is to play a bit with different hammer spring weights. Sometimes a heavier main/hemmer spring helps reducing the rolling and creating a better defined wall... But it comes at the cost of a heavier DA pull as well. The other thing to try is replacing your hammer/sear or fitting them to each other, but I don't recommend playing with it unless you know exactly what you're doing - As you can make your gun unsafe or nonoperational pretty quickly if something goes wrong on the sear/hammer engagement.

Ping me in IG @cz_armorer for details on that.

​@czarmorer any way to get a hold of you to inquire on pricing other than ig I don't have it at the moment . Also best ts2 I've seen

Thank you!

Yes, that's the same as the one for the Shadow2 acrually. Search for Nitro Fin from shootersconnection.com

🤣🤣🤣

Thank you!

Thank you!

If you want to use it as a thumb rest like the one in the video, look for Nitro Fin from shootersconnection.com

Thank you!

Thank you!

It's working well for me when I play it through KZfaq here - Not sure why the lack of audio for you.

Hey you are right! Now it's working. Believe me or not, I have restarted the youtube app on my phone and any other video had audio while this didn't. I think it is just taking it longer to process if one starts watching it 2 minutes after it was uploaded

I have not tested that, but my guess is that nothing would have happened, unless one strikes it hard enough to break hammer hook, in which case the hammer will get caught by the sear again on the pre-cocking hooks. Either way the gun would not fire.

I thought of that once, but never tried it. The issue I anticipate with that is that the trigger bar must still slide through that disco's surface when hammer is cocked. So a set screw there could take all the smoothness away.

Cheers mate! Thanks!

May i ask Another question if you don't mind😅, what's your idea/opinion about grinding off the half cock notch on the hammer? Mine is a duty firearm which i prefer to carry with no chamber load. I feel that during slow trigger pull, the sear is catching on the half cock notch a little bit. I read some forums regarding the same issue and some of them suggest to grind off the half cock notch. Thanks for the help!

@@johnrobertbala4291 I wouldn't do it. The half cock notch is a safety feature. By grinding it you will remove the ability of the hammer being stopped before hitting the firing pin in case it disengages from the sear by accident somehow.

That's a great idea! I don't have knowledge of this upfront though - I know of some compatibility (or lack of) between different models, but not really enough to make a useful video out of it :(. The other day I learned that Canik's mags fit on the Shadow2 for instance - I have both guns and did not know that... As I learn more about it, I will keep in the queue for future videos for sure.

@@czarmorer Regular 9mm Canik mags? I have to try this next week between TP9 and an SP-01 and S2. Thanks. The latest Archon pistols should also use S2 mags, but I couldn't test it yet.

It does only if you also used an extended FP and reduced power FP spring on it. The SP01 Shadow doesn't have a firing block either, so the same principle would apply to it too.

In terms of what you can use everything is game here - A dremel, a file etc. It's more about your experience and ability to do so without screwing up :). If you're not experienced on it, I would stay away from power tools such as a Dremel. Reason is that it's easier to make mistakes with them. I've used a Dremel to simply speed up the process in the beginning if I have a lot of material to remove... And then either a file or sand stones. Start with lower grits (200 - 400) and move up (600 - 800) as you get closer to reach the fit needed. The word of advice is "patience". Take your time: 1. Try 2. adjust/work 3. Repeat - until you get there. You win nothing on trying to do anything, when it comes to fitting/tuning, in a hurry.

Thanks a lot for your guidance! I will follow your exact instructions and will not use dremel this time. I will also probably get a caliper instead to make sure I can see the progress while working my way in. Please consider making a video for begginers some time in the future, since that would boost up that many people's confidence on getting their hands on it :)

Thank you!