I actually took a bit of an unorthodox approach to getting rid of dino. I put a big chunk of chaeto in my display tank. Every day the top of it would be covered in dino after the lights come on for few hours. I would just take the whole thing out and rinse it in a freshwater bucket and put it back in. It was gone in 2 weeks. Bonus since I was growing chaeto the tank did not get taken over by other nuisance algea or cyano.

I hope you’re right . Interestingly years ago I ran a tmc uv system. On my power filter since some of the old books said that uv light levels on the reef helped sterilise the water and reduce plankton blooms. . Obviously at see blooms surface at night from the depths. And that can’t happen in a closed system , thanks for your advice. It makes sense.

Started with dry rock 8 months ago, been battling lca for about the last 4 months going to give your method a try cheers

Well, Thank You! Real time information I can put to use. Your goniopora looks great! 'Preciate the time it took to put this info out there. "Never give up !" 🎉😂

One thing people forget to consider about dinoflagellates is that the symbionts living in our coral are also dinoflagellates. So you have to be careful about what exactly methods and products you're using to try and beat the free living / undesired dinoflagellates. It's also why knowing which species you're fighting is so important. Without knowing the species you're hard pressed to successfully eliminate the dinoflagellates and keep them at bay indefinitely. I am happy to hear more people talking about Coral Ecology and the micro and macro-biomes of our systems. Even though most of us hobbyists are not carrying out lab quality experiments, we are still able to perform research and document what you're doing as well the changes witnessed. It allows to start forming Hypothesis so we can then create procedures to work towards prevention of the issues. Thanks for sharing your views, opinions, and experiences considering dinoflagellates. It's one of the best things we can do, sharing methods and information with fellow hobbyists allows others to make a more educated decision.

I think you are correct. I had reef tanks back in the day when everyone sold real live rock and coral pieces, not frags on plugs. Never had the ugly stage. Fast forward to last couple of years I’m back in the hobby again and I’ve set up 5 tanks; I tried fake rock twice and both times was a disaster; I actually tore one tank down and started over. The other three tanks I started with Ocean Direct sand a real live rock and no ugly stage.

My experience, once you have them dosing nutrients does indeed put fuel on the fire. A topic which helped me is the: 'Dinoflagelates. A disruptive treatment' on reef2reef (dosing carbon with glucose at night).

Hows your tank doing now? I have dinos (ostreopsis) and have beat it once only for it to return. The UV was off for a few days after running it solidly for the previous 6 months. The ostreopsis I have now seem to be much more aggresive and my UV is having little effect.

You're a 100% right, my friend. I accidentally unplugged my UV filter for 3 days. Started looking at my tank. Why is all this brown s*** in here? What's going on looked at my light, it was off. Oh, s***, I forgot to plug it back in when I was doing my cord management. Plugged it back in now it's all good.

100% agree. overpowered UV has helped me twice with Dinos in the past.

I’ve been struggling with large cell amphidinium for 2 years now. I tried dosing silicates and it did work, but it took months and they came back as soon as I stopped dosing. I may try the uv as a last resort. Maybe I can blast them off the sand into the water column. Can I ask which pump you used with the D D UV unit ?

I've had success the 4 times I've had dinos so far with keeping my no3 and po4 elevated. I've tried using a uv sterilizer, but it didn't work for me. I may not have had Ostreopsis or didn't leave the uv on for long enough. I didn't have a microscope at the time either. Now I'm battling STN on some of my acro colonies. I believe to an off balance of my bacteria.

Would running a high powered uv over a sump help clear up an outbreak in a display tank or does it need to be directly over?

Dinos are mostly caused by artificial rocks when starting a new tank as the rocks leech Nitrates and Phosphates. Dinos are also from 0 Nitrates and Phosphate, but I've had continued success bringing Nitrates to 12 to 15 and that gets rid of Dinos fast. Pods did nothing for Dinos. Brightwell Microbacter7 dies help a bit, but it's a simple question of chemistry. Dose Nitrate and check your level daily until it levels out. Now that's on a new tank with artifical rock. If it happens to an established tank, then it can be a different ballgame.

It's not raising the nutrients and adding pods that work. It's getting the nutrients balanced and adding pods that work. And it can take anywhere from 3 weeks to 3 months. The uv is a band aid which is fine if you intend to keep it on. Uv's are good for keeping ick numbers down if the flow rate is in the right range aswell

Your view on old live rock is incorrect. While it had biodiversity, much of it was dead (due to transportation etc). You had to cycle it yourself to deal with the decomposition of the dead organisms. You still got dinos and cyano btw - it's all part of the process. It certainly wasn't an instant cycled tank ready for lps/sps!

I'm not gonna watch this whole video, but UV sterilizer is the best.

When i had dinos, i had 70 ppm nitrates LOL

After years having reefs, no. You adjust PAR, yes the intensity of light. DONT do a WC till its over. Thank me later.