Tach cluster swap was the first thing I did to my 94 f-150. One of the things he didn't cover in this video is if you have an auto, you have to unhook the cable for the PRNDL. I found its easiest to drop the knee bolster and you can get it unclipped and slid out without taking the column surround apart. As he found out Ford runs the charge circuit through the cluster. 94-97 clusters will work for everything but the alternator. 92-93 clusters, 94-95 clusters, 96-97 clusters interchange. I also find using a fork to remove the needles from the cluster is the easiest. Just slip the fork under the needle and lightly press the needle up.

nice video! I'm glad you're happy with the results, that's all that matters. little tip I've discovered from doing this a lot, before you ever take the gauge cluster out at all, let the truck fully cool overnight and take a picture of the gauge cluster( with the key on-but not running) from a stationary point, that you would normally view from. then, after your color change and led swap, when its time to put the needles back on, don't install them, put the gauge cluster back in the truck fully assembled(minus the front plastic and needles)and turn the key on. then look at the picture you took. use it as reference to where the needles should be. and carefully place the needles back making sure you press straight down and don't turn as you push. then you can start and drive the truck and see how it looks. if you are satisfied, remove the gauge cluster, dust it off and replace the front plastic. since you don't have a cluster that hasn't been apart to reference from, you could get another factory assembled cluster and install it temporarily to get your readings from, to match your modified cluster to. Doing this method with the ignition on powers up the needle motors , puts them in the correct position, and stops them from flopping around while you carefully reinstall the pointer needle. Also, you don't have to change all the bulbs to get the red look you were going for, the high beam, check engine , and other separate lights are all separate bulbs that wouldn't be necessary to change for the red look, if you look where the bulbs sit, you'll see partitions where the light is divided up for the different indicators. you only need to change the ones that light up a large area inside the cluster and not the ones in the little partitions.

I am glad you're putting love into that truck, whether it's what I would do or not.

Even your mom is amazed at the stuff she has learned by watching your videos. Keep up the good work. Maybe you can teach me how to cook.

This channel is a hidden gem, I really enjoy your content. This was so entertaining & interesting to watch too, the whole PNDR21 aka Pernandle pronounciation thing was cracking me up too. 😂

I will be looking to find a cluster with a tach for my 96 f150 4.9l 5spd 4x4, thanks for the vid!!!!

The trick to knowing where all your gauge needles were originally is to put a mark on the gauge cluster face itself at the tip of each needle before you pull off your needles erasable marker ect. & or take a picture as well

about the calibration I know you must disconnect the negative terminal of the battery and alligator clip it to the positive terminal and turn your lights on and leave for 10 minutes, let all of the charge get out of your truck and that makes sure it's a cleaner reset

Here's a link to another video where the guy talks about calibrating your gauges - . kzfaq.info/get/bejne/jtedh8dhprPPqYU.html&ab_channel=ClusterFixWashington Apparently there is a connector under the glove box - a blue wire with a yellow tracer and.... Oh, oh, you're going to have to take notes cause you have to ground "that" wire with the key off and holding the reset button in blah, blah, blah. The instructions start at the 7:30 mark but the whole video in quite informative. I'd just like to thank you for taking the whole cluster apart so I can see what to expect when I do my cluster. My switch to go from the front gas tank to the rear gas tank seems to work but the gas gauge doesn't seem to read the fuel levels. I wish the Lord would hurry up with the warm weather so I can get outside and play with my toys. I'm going bonkers with cabin fever. Damn Canadians can't seem to contain their cold air and keep it above the border.

I was laughing every time you said “Pernandl”. I have always known it pronounced as “Prindle” thanks for the video and the laughs.

Take a picture of idle and under load for the gauges makes it real easy

Thank you for making this video, was very in depth and appreciative the camera work. Makes it easy to see what yoy are doing and talking about. If I may ask, my "P R N D 2 1" on my 92 F250 "works" when shifitng however the tack itself when in Park is at "1". When i shift to R, N, D, etc the tack just goes to the right off the display. I assume it should be an easy fkx but im unsure if i need a new part rather than fixing the old one. Could be the tack needs to just be moved. Thanks!

I appreciate you putting all the time and effort into walking through all the detailed steps. I just picked up a 1994 F-150 for my son and I'm sure some Mods will soon be in store :-) Any suggestions on where to pickup secondary Instrument clusters like you used given these trucks are old and not easy to locate parts?

Hold the reset button or select, I forgot which one and turn key yo run not start but run and they should do a full sweep and go back to 0 at that point set your dails to 0 also, also incase you don't know you can calibrate the speed o and millage for different tire sizes!

Great job I loved I'm going to do this on my F350 thank you

Does th f250 fit the f150?

Wait you can just sick a a tach dashboard in there and it already has everything you need to operate the tach???

I like the green more

Chingon great job

I would lime to replace the electric gauges with mechanical,at least the oil and temperature , without having to have extra equipment screwed in the dash or door jam ,

Thanks buddy really appreciate the awesome informative video ‼️💪🏼🤘🏼

All right, giving this one a shot tonight. With blue LED though.

great information thank you so much. was the cluster with the tach taken out of a 4.9 6 cyl, or a V/8. if it was is there a switch you change in the back from 6 to V/8 if it was, was it a direct connect plug and play where you didn't have to change any of the plug pins and re-route

I have automatic trans what would the cable be call i think I broke it pulling it out your very go and I'm happy I have the same truck your help me on thanks for be there

Well done sir! If you don’t mind me asking what year is your truck, and what year gauge cluster did you buy?

I wonder if you use a red sharpie could you get the red a little sharper

Do you have a famous brother? Man, you remind me of someone. Just can't put my finger on it. Anyway, thanks for the info. I'm planning on doing the same thing on my 91 ranger.

Great job thank you Don

You never showed were the red lights go my app gage will not work ever thing else you did a great job don't know amp gage has a fues tried every thing I have same truck know know speedo or amp been mo trying shop won't work on it go 3000 dollars more parts to put on it but tell I get gags work don't want go on thank you

i wonder if I can just use my old gauge cluster housing and throw the tac plus the other gauges in there, not sure what difference it would make

I'm curious. Did the new cluster come out of an F150 with a 6 cylinder? Might be why it reads wrong.

I’m considering doing this to my 93 f150 and have a question if I don’t take the needles off because I don’t want to change the color will the gauges be accurate from the start instead of slightly off

Do you need to mark where the needle's are before removing them?

I’m a little late to comment, but I’ve been wondering does it matter where you put the needles back in place or does it automatically know where the needle should be? So basically I’m asking should I be putting the needles back the same direction they came out?

Hi, I did the cluster swap from a 96 bronco to my 96 F150. Everything looks fine beside the Temperature gauge. It does go from C to the first mark of the "NORMAL" range. Drove it around for awhile and it still not come up to like where it was before the swap. Heat and AC works fine.... what do you think is the cause and any suggestions of what I should do? Thank you.

Do all have green on them i have 93 f150 don't see green just try to add red leds not sure with blubls to change

How did the tach work? Was it just a plug and go?

Nice job

You sir have earned a new sub! #obsford4life

What brand of led bulbs did you use? Im doing my panel

How accurate are your needles after installation since you’ve uploaded this video, I just finished doing this and my needles are way off and i don’t know how to make them read right

Love it.

Did any wires have to be added for the tach to work? I have a 93 and been wanting to put a tach in.

No need to change the speedometer as the milage is in the computer not the readout!

From now on pernandle