Please share your results for comfort and ease of movement to use your controls. Viewers will appreciate your insight.

Normally, yes, but last bike I got was a BMW. :(

Hello David, I’m unable to get your good information to work when riding an adventure bike; in more of a upright riding position; so could you comment on those adjustments for different riding positions?

I appreciate you taking the time to share your feedback. Thanks!

@@CatalystReactionSBW Absolutely, thanks for taking the time to make the videos!

Thank you for your response and thoughts that others can benefit from.

Great suggestions and thank you for creating the time to help riders look more carefully post changes.

@@CatalystReactionSBW Your welcome and thank you for educating us riders. Your knowledge is invaluable.

great news and thank you for watching! Glad the video was extremely useful and now you are much more comfortable!

I sincerely appreciate you watching and takimg the time to post with positive feedback. Thank you!

Thank you for using the information to create a much more ergonomically comfortable bike!

They are as they do have so many more resources to leverage online and when at the track. I think that having data also helps via phone apps to see how you ride and help you be more consistent. We are as always the beneficiary of progress.

Thank you very much for watching and leveraging the content.

Thank you for your testomonial showing how myt work has made a huge difference to your understanding and consequent bike fitment that you have created to meet your needs. A tip of my hat to you!

I appreciate you watching and learning. Thank you!

Glad you enjoyed the video and thank you for commenting.

Thank you for being willing to follow that path and create "your" motorcycle. A tip if the hat to you Vic!

Thank you - glad you enjoyed it.

Great, glad it made a difference!

Thank you for tasking the time to watch the video and review the prior experiences to have perspective and context. I'm sure there will be other videos here that will be positive for you.

If you have to think about an action, then the lever is not quite righty. Normally, that is angle not reach. If it feels intuitive, you are in the right location!

Great lateral thinking in moving the lever laterally!

Mr. Moss does. He is very grateful for the generous and gracious comments. In fact, he is the only one that responds to every question ... so..... my sincere thanks for your question.

New fork oil and bushings, chassis overall with clean and lube, shock service, new rear wheel cush drive rubber. That way you are 100% ready

All based on your spine length and distance to the bars as that sets your forearm angle by default. So if you can move the bars and create more comfort that shows you the preferred alignment for your forearm.

Thank you for your kind words! For 2023, I would like to try and travel to more areas of the US from march to November, so i am looking at budgets to do that balanced with income opportunities for classes and motorcycle set up events.

I live in Northern California and travel extensively to teach. Thank you for your kind words, I am honored to know you find the content very informative. Thank you for taking the time to type your thoughts!

Normal is back of the palm in line with the forearm so you pull correctly in one line.

Great contribution - thank you!

Looks like you have a lot of freeplay

Dead space is normally the gap between the lever and contact point for the brake. With time and wear, that increases. For the clutch, free play should be 1-2mm when the engine is hot.

The small difference will not have an impact on handling! The difference is created when the fork cap is assembled. It is quite common.

It is always set for braking position. Tucked means Quickshifter and or power shift.

I use a 6mm allen when I need leverage vs a large flat tip. If you have the correct Torx tool, that is your best choice. If the adjuster is frozen, are you referring to both or just one leg. If both, normal settings changes move the adjuster left/counter clockwise to minimum. I would start by gently going right/clockwise with even pressure vs shock treatment with sudden force. If it does not move, try the opposite direction. Next step is that there is a risk that a preload spacer is cracked, so that means loosening the upper triple clamp bolt and the fork cap (make sure the bike is on the side/kick stand). Once the cap comes loose, compress the fork to see the spacer against the cap to look for damage. If there is no damage, close the fork up and repeat on the other leg. If there is no damage to either spacer, have a suspension shop or race team mechanic test the adjusters to see if they can get them free.

If the lever has no adjustment point at all, then yes, the cable free play is the only adjustment. Some levers will offer adjustment on the actual lever itself, others will offer adjustment between lever and piston for hydraulic variants.

Can they put more freeplay in the clutch lever?

Email tuning is $60, thirty minute video 1-1 is $80.

Consider your average speed and time spent in one position over the other. Create a mid point as a compromise.

If I understand you correctly, you are asking about the reservoir for a master cylinder that is held in place via a piece of metal, usually aluminum. Many are fixed to the upper triple clamp, so to resolve the issue you need a much longer hose from the master cylinder to the reservoir and you can get the angle you need. If the master cylinder and reservoir move as one unit, there is no problem. If the reservoir is part of a one piece assembly, it will hit the bars or triple clamps so angle adjustment is very limited.

That is not an issue at all as you have the large rubber seal inside the top of the cap. The only issue is if the fluid is below the low level and you allow air to get in and that takes some effort!

@@CatalystReactionSBW Thanks mate. Very much appreciated. ✊🏻

Kangaroo skin is very thin and other manufacturers use leather of combination of materials. Set the angle with gloves on if that is critical to you as a fundamental with the process.

Great idea and that can be added to the list!

1. Check that each angle is 90 degrees in the entire linkage. 2. Check the shift arm position and movement - it should not stress the shift rod. 3. Check the shift rod for any contact during the full up and down movement path. 4. Check the Heim joints are not seized Those are the primary visual checks I run.

thank you for that information. i have managed to sort it this morning. i kind of played around with it so more but will look at what you have mentioned. thank you @@CatalystReactionSBW

Correct torque for most riders is via a torque wrench. For those who have used that tool for a long time develop a feel for the various common torque settings.

Depending on your technique, you would assess that as part of your unique setting. You may have to move the lever out more, but the question is how old is the brake fluid? It is good for 90 days to 3 months. I change mine every 4 months as it is very cheap and a simple task. What i do not use I give to a new rider or friend to use.

Thank you. I use the MV as a coaching bike and sometimes that means showing a person around the track two up. Having a stock bike also allows riders to see that you do not need to spend $$$ on modifications and weight reduction.

@@CatalystReactionSBW cool!

There are many forms of shifters that allow adjustment. Vortex has an adjustable shifter for the toe over a large distance

www.vortexracing.com/product/rs416/

Have you checked clutch free play at the lever with a hot engine? I am curious to see if that has been done. The other aspect is too make sure the shifter is not too high as that will put you in neutral often by mistake.

Yes i set the freeplay while the engine was hot i was paying attention during your video i promise lol. you were right though the shifter was too high and adjusting it seems to have fixed the problem. Thanks Dave!

@@nop58653 Glad that all worked out!

Shift the whole brake lever assembly slightly left or right on the bar to gain a few more mm of angle to clear the fairing.

@@TWIRKNOLOVE Good idea, but I fear there’s no open real estate on either side anyway :( sad times

I think he's just demonstrating how to do it, with or without gloves it's same principle.

Because it gives the visual of straight forearm and back of the palm, none of which is clearly visible when fully geared up

Brake pressure switch is like a 10min install or so. I had to get one because of my aftermarket rear sets. Just get it.

@@TWIRKNOLOVE Good Point. I used to have a couple of spares in my Shop.. My 6 wheel drive truck has an air over brake fluid traction lock system .. and I like to have the light on the dash working to let me know when my differentials and spiders are locked. Still would need the proper T to plumb it .. and the Yamaha is probably Metric .

Where the pin fits, would it be possible to change it to a slot instead of a hole? Could you remove the pin? Just a couple of thoughts for you to ponder.

Did you take the bronze bushing out of your OEM lever and put it into the aftermarket lever?

@@CatalystReactionSBW what bushing?

@@mynameismrmeow Look at the OEM lever, it will have a golf bushing where the bolt goes through. Sometimes that needs to be removed and put into the aftermarket lever

@@CatalystReactionSBW ok thanks man

If you choose to ride that way, are you pull the lever in the correct plane compared to your forearm? If not, then you lose a great deal of efficiency. If you palm is above or below your forearm, then the lever pull is incorrect biomechanically.

I have yet to see the need for a clutch cable reset when an angle is changed. Does not hurt to check of course.

Agreed with you on boots. We should have done that but the camera picked up very little foot/ankle movement so different color upper would be needed for much better contrast.

You can ride however you choose with finger placement and the number of fingers used. Technique is what feels most natural but sometimes that is "natural" based on incorrect ergo's

@@CatalystReactionSBW "...but sometimes that is "natural" based on incorrect ergo's" Aye! That's exactly what I'm concerned about. In any case, something needs to be changed :D

@@Snoupity I do too and it never really hindered anything other then getting a perfect 'screwdriver' hand placement on right hand turns on track.

You don't brake in a tuck, you lift your head up so yeah your arms are at an angle. Maybe not 45 degrees all the time like how he's sitting on the bike, but definitely not parrelel to the ground either

@@jeffbarnard348 Agreed, raising your head to brake is a common technique. On the other hand, 95% of the time when you are not braking, and in a tucked position, some riders prefer to have their levers set for instant access if needed without having to raise the head and body up to reach the levers.