I’m going to to try on my diesel pistons along with the top coat, fingers crossed 😅

Sorry brother, I dont. I just eyeballed the thickness and got it as close to stock as possible. I figure if the coating is too thick, itll rub off and make a perfect fit inside the bore.

Nice, I say do it!! And yes, the factory coating had worn off a little bit, that and i wanted to put an updated coating on it. Not saying mercedes doesnt know their engine stuff, im sure the factory coating would have been okay in its worn condition. But, i just figured a piston coating designed by a name brand in 2019-2020 would be a good bet. Plus, this coating with the other coating i did on the tops, now i have custom "high performance" pistons. :D

@@JakeSublime I would in a heartbeat, but time and money restrictions right now. I'm just keeping my ear to the ground waiting for one to pop up. I'm guessing modern materials are better, but MB did some cool stuff back in the day. You think their modern engines have piston treatments? Maybe their high dollar or performance oriented cars, but otherwise I kinda doubt it.

My guess is most engines in general have sideskirt lube coats (modern engine designs). So yes, mercedes probably does that with all their engines. I doubt most manufacturers coat the piston tops with ceramic, however. Maybe a select few models from a few manufacturers, or possibly some high end cars like lambo or something.

In my mind, as long as its not so tight in wont go in, itll be perfect. In fact, the tighter, the better. Any extra material the piston doesnt want on it can be worn off and at th4e least depo'd into the cylinder wall, creating a more slick surface. If nothing else, the piston will find its own clearance. I only say this in this circumstance, because were talking about a "lubricant". So on short, i sprayed and prayed i guess haha.

The cerakote material is less than a mm thick, it has negligible effect on clearance.

@@JVR_Funwithdesign you mean um ( micro meter ) probably :)

@@flappingflight8537 Nope..the tech sheet for it says 1mil ;)

@@flappingflight8537 images.nicindustries.com/cerakote/documents/146/c-186q-piston-coat-dt20200115005806228.pdf

Not sure. The engine hasnt spit anything out, and the combustion chambers just look BLACK lmao. Too much racing it i suppose. I will eventually pull the pan and check everything, down the road. When i do, ill check the pistons and their coatings.

If you pop a quick google, Cerakote C-110 is available on their own online store. Both C-110 and C-186 can be purchased over there. "Tester" size is what i used, and it's enough for 2 small/med engines (4-6 cyl) or 1 large engine (8-12 cyl). However, if youve truly got piston slap, its possible that sideskirt coatings are not the answer. You might need new pistons, brother. Then, coat the new pistons with C-110, and maybe C-186 while youre in there lol. I might be wrong about that, so unless you know otherwise, id give it a try at least.

Hi Osborne, am in same situation and rather than spend £400 on new pistons & liners will try the £35 tester bottle of this stuff. My engineer says we only need to make up 3 thou on the skirt - so is about 9 coats of this C-110. Did you try this yet.? work for you.?

@@pbocking44 this wont work. Its paint not metal. And its air cure. This will scuff off

It surely would at least reduce slapping, yes. However, if I were you, I'd try to source used pistons from a motor in a salvage yard or something. Just a thought

​@@JakeSublime No it will not, It will cease the piston in the wall & cause the rod to protrude from the block. You cannot DIY piston skirt coating. The paint has to be heat treated onto the piston at certain temperature & also you have to chemically clean the piston prior to coating it. This is entire fail attempt. Do not try this, your engine will throw a rod or two I a sure you. Not to mention you will have paint flakes in circulation internally.

And also your dry film thickness is 0,0001 to 0,0005 as per cerakote recommendation. Basically 2 light coats worth at 30psi. In this case slightly overdone but OK

Nah, it says all over that it doesn't change the dimensions...

I was spraying 6 pistons. After i got to the last piston, i circled back around to the first again. So anywhere between 10 and 20 minutes between coats.

I followed manufacturer directions and used the proper equipment. This should perform as advertised. The only thing i would do differently is reduce airflow, and wear as mask (to reduce dust getting in coatings).

@@JakeSublime are the pistons in the block then ? Did they go in ok if so... I'll be interested to see how this works out

@@beltdrivetypea6534engine blew up after running for about a month

Hey, the engine is together and prepared for all the peripherals (alternator, pumps, manifolds, etc). Should be running in 1-2 months if my wallet allows me to finish the turbo setup haha. But this is a really good idea. Ill think about it, and maybe ill come back after i do some burnouts, high engine load circumstances, etc.. and then inspect the coatings. Thanks for the suggestion!

@@JakeSublime I was emailing the guy today. I told him you had done 2 vids and that he should sign you up, because you were more relatable and gave very good info. Hope I don't see that, after 1000 miles video unless they sign you up😉

@@JakeSublime have you considered coating the underside of the piston?. Coating the top side on an engine will rub off when the engine is used for long periods So i was thinking it wouldnt hurt coating the bottom side which will further keep the heat away from the oil and never rub off

I like where your head is at. It sounds like youre talking about the ceramic coating for the piston. The ceramic SHOULDNT come off of the top of the piston. It molecularly bonds to it, so no matter what the ceramic is a part of the piston now. That said, the ceramic's job is to act like a mirror, and like insulation, both at the same time. That way, the piston absorbs less heat from the combustion chamber, keeping it cooler. In any engine, it is beneficial to have oil splash against the piston some how. This assists the piston's rings in removing heat from the piston (as piston rings primary/secondary jobs are to remove heat from the piston). Coating the bottom of the piston would reduce the amount of heat the oil can remove from the piston, and that would be bad.

@@JakeSublime i agree. I was more focused on trapping the heat inside the chamber and not caring about cooling the piston. It was because I read somewhere that a guy had his pistons lose 40% of the ceramic coating. I was also wondering about iron sleeves in high performance engines. Why dont they ceramic coat the Outside of the iron sleeves before they press them this will help keep the heat inside the chamber as the piston moves down and the cooling of the aluminum block will not be effected if anything improved

Im like 99% sure it was the "Tester" 4oz for $35

Cerakote c110 micro slick

Hey, the goal for this engine is to run 400-500 hp, reliably, for 100k miles/160k kilometers. Its going to be my daily driver, ive got to make sure its going to last! Im going to road trip in this car, all across the US!

CeraKote Micro Slick is an air-dry product.

This literally makes no sense what you said the fk would it make you throw a rod and what do you think acetone is