Great combination

Really appreciate you watching Rich. There are others out there that talk about PPE too though. 😎 Gotta be careful when dealing with any of the "cides".

Where’s the mask though oh no

@@playboiperez1535 these products don’t require a mask PlayBoiPerez. I suppose you could wear one of you wanted anyways.

Thanks for the kind words John. I appreciate you guys watching and commenting on the content. I've been trying my best to improve the quality of the content. Putting you guys first vs. creating content that I may think is cool but not necessarily as helpful. Really looking forward to this season. Let me know if I can help with anything. I appreciate the support. 👍😎

Glad you found it useful Meister. You can mix and apply the 2 without issue. They both need to be watered in and mix well together. Definitely a way to save time if you have a warm season lawn. Thanks for watching. 👍😎

Thanks so much guys. I really appreciate the support. Looking forward to what this season brings. Ready for spring to get here!

Thanks Elder. I really appreciate it. Thanks for watching the content. 😎👍

Heya Bruce. I didn't have a way to vacuum the leaves up since I wasn't spraying my lawn. Appreciate you watching sir. Thanks for the support.😎

Appreciate the tip S.W. Warbirds. Great tip about water pH.

That's awesome man. You won't regret it. The features that it has along with the potential get multiple machines in one is pretty nice.

Happy to help Kevin. Let me know if I can help with anything else.

For sure Princern. Shows the importance of watching the entire video. :-)

What works on cool season grass?

@jasonheckel1174 This golfcourselawn.store/products/velocity-pm-poa-annua-control-for-cool-season-turf?ToPasteboard

Jamar. It would help to water it in. With the ready to spray, you're applying it with a lot more water so it gets down into the soil easier. It would still benefit from being watered in though. Even if it's a light watering.

Thanks so much Striperman. I appreciate the support. Thanks for watching.

Thanks for the feedback Jim. Completely agree on poa that's already in the lawn. Spraying it with Negate or Certainty with a surfactant is a better option for eliminating it. I showed this blend because mixing prodiamine and Image make a decent combination that both require watering in to be effective.

Thanks. Have you had good luck with the post emergents? I have two acres of nice (but common) Bermuda with a small (maybe 10-15% infestation. I have battled it for a couple of years now and I am winning, but it it slow…

That is why I have started just pulling it up by hand with a weeding fork this year. My lawn company isn’t killing it fast enough and is not spraying all of it so I’ve been trying to pull up as much as I can before all the seeds fall😩

That’s an option for sure Priscilla. Alternatively, you can use Certainty. It works much faster than Image. golfcourselawn.store/products/certainty-herbicide-1-25-oz-sedge-and-poa-annua-control

@@RonHenry are these herbicides (image and certainty) for poa ok to use after the lawn wakes up or only while still dormant?

Thanks Wize Guy! I appreciate you watching.

I appreciate it Dan! Thanks for watching sir.

Not s loh of good options to selectively contol poa. You can use a growth regulator like Primo Maxx to surpress the seed heads so the poa isn't as visible. Poa is best prevented in cool season lawns with pre-emergent.

Yessir. I got a some questions on applying both at the same time so figured why not make a video showing how to do it. 👍😎

Glad it was useful Michael. Let me know if I can help with anything else.

Anytime! Thanks for watching.

Thanks so much sir. I really appreciate it. Let me know if I can help with anything.

I was looking to fill this void. But you got it covered. Using the same backpack sprayer. Just completed my Prodimine. I'm running .73 oz to cover 4000sq on Bermuda for 3months. (www.grassdaddy.net/tools/prodiamine-calculator). Plan to slow push in March with 10 10 10. Malorganite in March to get Micro nutrients in place. And as always it pays to get a soil test to establish your baseline.

@@TOMCAT631 Very cool TOMCAT631. It sounds like you've got a good plan going. Let me know if I can help answer anything else. Thanks for watching.

Thanks Leesah. I appreciate you watching.

Glad it was helpful A C. Appreciate you watching. Let me know if I can help with anything else. 👍😎

Glad it's useful sir. Let me know if I can help with anything else. :-)

Heya Troy. You can still apply Image if you're having an issue with Poa. The heat really should take care of it though. I'd be sure to get your fall pre-emergent down so you're not fighting this next year.

@@RonHenry appreciate the response. I’ll be picking up your pre emergent recommendations here. Thanks again

Hi Jalal. You can apply Image every 6 weeks. Pre-emergent you'd only need to apply in the spring and in the fall. If you apply Prodiamine at the rate shown in this video, you'd need to switch to a different product in the fall. Something like Dimension. Let me know if I can help with anything else.

Thank you again for all information. Can I list of if need to switch to different products please.

@@jalaltirgardoun1406 HI Jalal. This is an option you could use in the fall: ron-henry.com/dithiopyrliquid An excellent option that's a bit more expensive is called Coastal: ron-henry.com/coastal

It's fine to mix Celsius, Certainty and prodiamine. I would omit surfactant if you're doing so though.

Heya Jeff. I didn't apply pre-emergent to my lawn in the spring. This video was done at a friend's house. In the fall both he and Alex will be going with Dithiopyr. To your point, the annual max rate is .83oz per 1k. Appreciate you chiming in.

Appreciate it Earth!

That was me Gabriel. 😎 Picking up some carbon pro and a few other items. You should have come over and said hi. 👍

Not surprised to hear this!

@@LG-cz4hb Being caught there ONNNNNNEEE time isn't enough to establish a pattern of behavior. :-)

@@RonHenry I grabbed a few bags of Carbon Pro G myself. Your SUV was blocking me from backing into the bay to get loaded up and you were going in as me and the reps were loading my truck..lol.. I've learned a lot from your channel and appreciate the knowledge sharing!!

@@gabriellobd small world man. :-) Thanks so much for watching the content. Sorry I was blocking the bay!

Thanks sir! I appreciate you watching.

I've spoken about that in videos safefi 1. In the late winter / early spring, apply pre-emergent BEFORE average soil temps are 55 degrees. A bit early is better than a bit late. I apply mine in late Jan/early Feb. I live in northeast GA. Hope this helps.

Glad it’s useful! Appreciate you watching.

Hi dahinojos. The actual limit is .83 for warm season grass. I just say .80 in the video to make the math easier for viewers to follow. If you go over the annual limit, the herbicide can become toxic for the grass. There's really no reason to go over the max rate. I would switch to dithipyr for the fall or some other pre-emergent for your fall application.

Sure Michael. The .183 rate is really for cool season grass where the annual limit is .55 oz. per 1000 square feet. Using that rate assumes you're doing to do multiple applications. For Bermuda the annual limit is .83 oz. per 1000 square feet. I don't split applications which and also alternate pre-emergents between spring and fall. That's the reason for the higher rate. Again, .83 is for warm season grass like Bermuda and Zoysia. Hope this helps.

Hi Dan. Nope. This combination is for warm season grass only. For cool season grass, use Tenacity with a surfactant to target poa. Can get both here: golfcourselawn.store/collections/weed-killer

The 25 degree green spray tip the Typhoon 2 comes with: Flowzone Typhoon 2: amzn.to/39sUrVE

@@RonHenry ok I just got my flow zone and tested it the other day .so did you say 90 sec a gallon ? Is that a fast pace ?

91 second for a gallon at the 115psi rate. That’s what my sprayer does.

@@RonHenry ok thank you I have the flow zone to so it should be the same I look forward on learning things from you along with A.H

Awesome man. It’s a great sprayer. Let me know if you have any questions.

Yeah man. Trying to keep those spring weeds away. Hoping for an early green-up!

I would try to save existing lawn if possible. If you want the fastest option, you could kill off existing lawn and lay sod. Just depends on how quickly you want to turn things around. Appreciate you watching.

@@RonHenry not in much hurry! I would like this to happen sometime next spring. I think am kind of late for this since im in the northeast, CT. What would you recommend to kill off at this point?

I’d use RoundUp or a generic like Ranger Pro. Either will work well Max. Thanks for watching the content sir. I appreciate the support. 🙏😎

Hi djsausagebiscuits. Unfortunately you really have to use a scale to accurate measure the product. Measuring by container volume isn't going to be precise enough. Is there anyway you can borrow a precision scale? This one is pretty inexpensive and has great reviews: amzn.to/39fNxTG The IMAGE can be done by volume, but not the Prodiamine. I wouldn't risk it. Sorry I don't have a better answer.

I use either Coastal or Spectacle Flo TG. amzn.to/3O263Rn

Hi Paidwa. Which weeds are you trying to treat? According to the product website: www.bioadvanced.com/all-in-one-weed-feed it's safe for Fescue grass but really looks more like a spring product whenever the weeds are actively growing. If you let me know which weeds you're targeting, I can check to see if the bioadvanced is a fit for it. Thanks for watching . 😎👍

I would spray glyphosate on a Bermuda lawn. If it’s not completely dormant you risk damaging it. You won’t see the damage until spring when the lawn is attempting to come out of dormancy.

What kind of grass do you have? If you have cool season grass, don't use image. Check out this blog post to determine what kind of grass you have: golfcourselawn.store/blogs/diy-lawn-care/which-type-of-grass-is-my-lawn

Thanks GarTX526!

Mmmm. I don’t recall saying that I don’t scalp my lawn in the spring. I did say I don’t typically raise my height of cut during the winter. I maintain the same height of cut year round. Is that what you meant?

Great question. Use a different pre-emergent. Other great options are Dithipyr (Dimension) or Indaziflam (Specticle Flo). Thanks for watching. I appreciate the support. 👍😎

I would go with Indaziflam (Specticle Flo) as it uses a different mode of action. Prodiamine is a DNA inhibitor. I would also do a split app instead of one heavy application.

@@LuisRRodas totally agree on the improved effectiveness of a split application Luis. For people intimidated by applying liquid pre-emergent in the first place, I wanted to make it as simple as possible for them. Once they get a single application under their belt, they'll learn about split apps and can always opt for that method going forward. Thanks for chiming in man. Appreciate your insights.

Hi Charles. IMAGE will likely knock the Rye back a bit but I"m not sure how effective it would be for killing it off completely. A better combination to get rid of Rye would be to use Certainty with a surfactant. It's easy to mix and is very effective against Rye. Certainty herbicide: ron-henry.com/certainty Surfactant: ron-henry.com/surfactant Let me know if I can help with anything else. 😎👍

It's a good trick to save your back for sure.

I'm using the Floodjet tip Rachael. TeeJet FloodJet Tip: amzn.to/377gMJE The spray pattern difference is likely due to the different pressure difference between our sprayers and the fact that electric backpack sprayers are more consistent.

@@RonHenry yup- that’s the one. Thanks!

You prevent it with pre-emergent. There aren't a lot of good (or inexpensive) post-emergent options for poa on cool season lawns.

Hi Chris. Nope. I wouldn't use Image on cool season lawns. It will damage the grass. The prodiamine / Image blend is for warm season lawns only. I can't say that it would completely kill your lawn but there's a good chance that it would. I'm not aware of a herbicide that will only target poa in a cool season lawn. Not that home owners can use anyways. There's one called PoaCure but it's currently listed for golf courses only.

Hi Jon. I've never done that combination before. If memory serves, 2,4 D works better when applied with a surfactant so it wouldn't be ideal to apply with pre-emergent. We want image and pre-emergent to get down into the soil whereas surfactant helps the product stick to the foliage above ground. So essentially you'd be working against yourself. Make sense? 👍😎

@@RonHenry Thanks Ron. This is why I depend on your expertise. Keep up the good work.

@@jonmilford4751 no problem at all man. Happy to help out. Even if you could mix them, I don't think I would. Thanks for watching the content. Appreciate the support.

Hi Michael. I wouldn’t use surfactant with prodiamine or image.

Probably Tenacity Mark: golfcourselawn.store/products/mesotrione-meso-4sc-select

If you have warm season grass (Bermuda, Zoysia, St. Augustine), I would use this: golfcourselawn.store/products/celsius-wg-broadleaf-and-grassy-weed-control-for-warm-season-turf if cool season grass (Rye, Fescus, KBG): golfcourselawn.store/products/broadleaf-weed-control-triad-select-3-way-herbicide

can you be more specific on the type of herbicide I can use, since I live in Delaware . I have different types of grass speciesism such as zoysia and Kentucky and some others a can’t tell. Also, it’s December and temperatures are about 40 degrees depending on the weather. Thank you 🙏🏾

Hi Art. I appreciate you watching. I also have a Chapin 24 volt sprayer. When I did the calibration tests, I came back with 160 seconds to walk 1000 square feet. Not a super fast pace at all. In my upcoming course I have a lesson that talks all about backpack sprayers complete with calibration data. Always happy to help out where I can. To figure out what a 160 second walking pace feels like you can measure off a 20x50 area, fill the sprayer with a few gallons of water and then time how long it takes you to walk the 1000 square feet. This is a low risk way to learn the correct walking pace since you're only sprayer water. Let me know if I can help with anything else. Glad you found the video and that it's useful. Let me know if I can help with anything else. 👍😎

I’m not sure if that’s the case Wade. Image and Certainty both kill sedges and they also kill Poa though.

Correct Mr. Green thumb. You'd switch to dithiopyr for the fall. You can get it in liquid: ron-henry.com/dithiopyrliquid or granular form: ron-henry.com/dithiopyrgranule There's also Pendulum 2G which also comes in a granular. ron-henry.com/pendulum2g Let me know if I can help with anything else. 👍😎

@@RonHenry Ok thanks 👍🏽

Let me know if I can help with anything else.

Thanks Luke! Correct. Image is not for cool season grass.

Heya MichcanMike12. You can get the scale here: Precision Scale: amzn.to/39fNxTG I totally get what you're saying about PPE. It's always a good idea to cover up; especially when dealing with herbicides. I appreciate you watching the content. Let me know if I an help with anything else. 😎👍

Ideally in February and September. Those are the months to apply pre-emergent.

Great question dribeker. I imagine the label likely specifies a lighter rate to provide a buffer because most people are heavy handed. If you do the math on the bottle coverage (6000 square feet) and divide that by the amount of fluid ounces in the bottle (24) you come up with 4 ounces per 1k; not 2.5. Make sense?

@@RonHenry yes. After watching some vids on your channel, I just ordered pre emergent and the image. The image does indeed read on the label for a large area application, you need .8 ounces per 200 sq ft. .8x5 ( to equal 1,000 sq ft) is where you got 4 ounces per 1,000. Thanks for all the info and I will keep watching your extremely useful videos!

Hi Carlos. Yes you can. Better sooner that later. Image will take care of some of the weeds you have. If you have Poa Annua, you should get a good result. I would get the pre-emergent down sooner than later. Let me know if I can help with anything else. Thanks for watching.

Hi Lupe. Certainty is what I’d go with. It’s more effective against poa than Image. Certainty: golfcourselawn.store/products/certainty-herbicide-1-25-oz-sedge-and-poa-annua-control Surfactant: golfcourselawn.store/products/hi-yield-spreader-sticker-non-ionic-surfactant-16-oz

I like the CarbonPro G products. It's great value for money and performs really well.

Yes Andrew. It can be applied now. Either way will work. You do t have to scalp first. Just be sure to water it in after application.

Hi Jose. Nah. Even if it's granular you still shouldn't really apply my Prodiamine. If you want to use another pre-emergent use dithiopyr. Here is is in a fertilizer that contains granular dithiopyr: ron-henry.com/dithiopyrgranule If you only want pre-emergent in a granule, you can use Pendulum2g: ron-henry.com/pendulum2g Either of those will work in place of Prodiamine. Let me know if I can help with anything else. Thanks for watching. 😎👍

@@RonHenry thanks for your quick response.

@@jopadeja No problem at all. Let me know if I can help answer anything else.

Hi KD kD. I wouldn't apply pre-emergent if you main goal is to overseed with rye grass in the fall. It will hurt the seeds' ability to germinate and establish. It's one of those either or things.

Do I need to water after this process I really appreciate it thank you so much

Hi Tina. Which Spectracide product? If it’s the one that comes in a bag, I’d wait until April when your grass is greening up more

Hi Trevor. Some of what you're seeing could be a combination of Image and the fact that there the Bermuda was competing with the annual ryegrass for resources. It's hard to say exactly why your lawn is greening up slower. Could even be cooler weather. Post-emergent herbicide doesn't help though. Thanks for watching sir.

I can reach out to Typhoon to see if they’re down. :-)

@@RonHenry You know I'm always down for a freebie or two.

Prodiamine? 3 - 4 months. Image shouldn’t affect your ability to grow grass from seed.

@@RonHenry Thank you! I was just a little confused about timing because I needed to kill off what growing now, fill in those dead spots and also put down a pre emergent to prevent next years growth.

Not at all Grayson. They're designed to be watered in so if you can find a time when it's not raining to put them down by all means. Prodiamine calls for half an inch of water afterwards to get it down into the soil. Rain is a good thing.

Hi Jeff. Because wanted to treat poa annua at the same time as applying the pre-emergent. They are both root absorbed and mix without issue so it’s killing two birds with one stone. Great question. Thanks for watching the content. Let me know if I can help with anything else. 👍😎

@@RonHenry thank you. I’m in TN and getting started w my lawn care business. Doing a lot of studying and research w the pre and post products, fertilizer etc. Your videos have been a great help so far. Thank you for the time you put into them which helps many of us.

@@princevillekauainorthshore736 That's awesome Jeff. Glad you find it useful towards getting your business going. Let me know if I can help with anything else.

Yes Kevin. If you do the math on the label, it states one bottle covers up to 6000 square feet. There’s 24 fl. oz. in the bottle so if dothr math, max rate is really 4oz. per 1000, not 2.5. Make sense?

Yes. I have a follow up question. Do you have an email setup for a follow up question

@@katzmeow2150 sure Kevin. ron@golfcourselawn.com

Hi Michael. Nope. You don't need to scalp. Just make sure you water it in heavily. Ideally half an inch of water to wash it down into the soil. Let me know if I can help answer anything else.

@@RonHenry Thank you sir. I appreciate your help. I have a lot of work to do this year in my yard. I live just north of Dallas, TX and was thinking putting pre-emergent down by the last week of February. Would that be early or too late. We have had snow before at the beginning of March before.

Hi Michael. Late Feb is probably fine. The big thing you want to avoid is applying it to frozen ground. Once soil temps are in the 50s weeds will start to wake up so it’s important to have it down before then. A bit early is better than too late.

I wouldn't. Image is designed for warm season grass and Tenacity for cool season grass. It would cause damage.

@@RonHenry Thanks Ron, After watching your videos I decided to go with Celsius instead considering I have a bermuda lawn.

Yes. I was spraying 4000 square feet in the video so I multiplied the rate by 4. With a 4 gallon sprayer, you spray up to 4000 square feet.

thank you. @@RonHenry

Hi Brad. It can’t be shipped to Canada unfortunately. There’s be issues getting it through customs. The Prodiamine is safe for cool season grass. The Image is not. Hope this helps.

Hi Carmelo. Neither require surfactant to use.

Hi Sean. If your goal is to apply Prodiamine at half rate, then you’ll need to mix 1.60 ounces of Prodiamine with 4 gallons of water and spray that over 4000 square feet. If you spray the 4 gallons over more than 4000 square feet, you won’t be applying the pre-emergent at the .40 per 1k rate. It will be less than that. If you have pre-emergent left over after walking 4000 square feet then you’re walking too quickly. I would either slow down your walking pace or make another pass over the same area with what’s left in the sprayer until it’s empty. Make sense?

@@RonHenry thanks. That totally makes sense. I had the 1.60 ounces correct so i will just slow down.

@@seanwhite5269 Sounds good man. It will get easier as you do it more. Just keep at it. Congrats on applying your own pre-emergent. Let me know if I can help with anything else.

Will using a little baby shampoo make a difference in the results?

@@seanwhite5269 not really Sean. You don't need a surfactant for either product.

Hi Charles. I wouldn't. The two herbicides work differently. Image is designed to work in the root zone where Certainty is designed for foliar. You could mix Simazine and Image since they work similarly. If you're looking for a product to mix with Certainty for greater coverage, Celsius would be a great choice. golfcourselawn.store/products/celsius-wg-broadleaf-and-grassy-weed-control-for-warm-season-turf Thanks for watching.

You wouldn't Cesar. You can apply prodiamine, but don't use Image on cool season turf. If the poa is already there, your options are to dig it out or suppress the seed heads with Primo Maxx. That will make it less apparent in your lawn. golfcourselawn.store/products/primo-maxx-plant-growth-regulator-4-oz

Hi AM. Yes. In the fall I’ll use either Dithiopyr: ron-henry.com/dithiopyrliquid or Pendulum2G for the granular route: ron-henry.com/pendulum2g Are you applying Prodiamine this spring?

@@RonHenry Yes possibly this week. My front lawn is zoysia and the back is centipede.

@@AM-bj6qn sounds good A M. Both the Pendulum and Dithiopyr are safe on Zoysia and Centipede.

Hi The R Randy. Yes you can apply Image to centipede. It's not so much doubling up since the pre-emergent and Image are attacking 2 different problems. Let me know if I can help with anything else. 👍😎

Rain after application is s great KD kD. Products need to be watered in.

Not at all Tom. Should be fine.

Hi Robert. I would hold off on pre-emergent in that case. Applying it now is likely to hurt your spring germination.

Hi Martin. You can buy Prodiamine but not Image. If your goal is to kill Poa Annua, go with Certainty. It works faster and be shipped to CA. Can see it here: golfcourselawn.store/collections/weed-killer Hope this helps.

There's not a ton of them Uber WebD. If you can blow them away then that's good. There weren't that many to be worried about.

I'll shoot some video Christopher. I was looking at Alex's lawn yesterday and the Poa is definitely yellowing. It's not completely dead as yet but it's definitely taken a hard hit. I'll film some video this weekend of how it's doing.

Appreciate you watching!

I don't see anything on the Q4 label about requiring a surfactant. Appears to be optional

Hi Christopher. Certainty should work well. You'll need to use a surfactant with it for best results. ron-henry.com/certainty

@@RonHenry ok. Thanks man

Anytime 😎

Image takes a whole to work Dilly Dog. A faster / better herbicide for Poa is Certainty. Combine it with surfactant and it will take care of the Poa. Certainty: golfcourselawn.store/products/certainty-herbicide-1-25-oz-sedge-and-poa-annua-control Surfactant: golfcourselawn.store/products/hi-yield-spreader-sticker-non-ionic-surfactant-16-oz

Heya Kevin. Yep. It’s supposed to be watered in. From the product label: “Water in within 1-7 days after application to wash this product into the root zone where the greatest weed control activity occurs.” This is why it’s a good match with pre-emergent. Both need to be watered in for best effectiveness.

You'd have to do a jar test Top Cat to ensure no odd interactions. Assuming they play nice together, it should be fine.

@@RonHenry Thanks..need to do that. The bugs like small flies are biting us black n blue..lol need to put an end to this. Becomes embarrassing when family visiting complains about it.

@@topcat5992 This is a great option too. It's non-toxic: golfcourselawn.store/products/mirimichi-green-pest-control-free-shipping

Hi Robert. If you're planning to overseed in the spring, I wouldn't apply pre-emergent now. Granted you'll probably have some weeds to deal with but that's the tradeoff for improved germination. I mean if you went light now and didn't overseed until so May or June, you're probably going to be fine. It's unlikely that Prodiamine would be effective that long. What are you planning to overseed with?

@@RonHenry Currently have BlackJack and think to complement it with Maya. Thoughts?

@@RobertTheFriscoSchmid I've not seen those 2 together in person but on camera/video they look fairly similar. It should look good as long as you do a good job evenly overseeding the lawn. Keyword being "even' :-)